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Old 10-22-2012, 08:22 AM   #136
Boon Booni
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Resurrecting an old thread to say thanks. This technique works wonderfully on my 2002 640 Adv. Ran the battery down this morning cranking, popped out the kicker, 4-5 times through on decomp, TDC then 1" more, kick and Vrrooom!

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Old 10-22-2012, 01:55 PM   #137
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Woot!

If it ever gets worse, you can disconnect the battery and (if they are still on) turn off the headlight(s):
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=216376&page=8
and start with a dead battery.
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Old 06-02-2013, 01:42 AM   #138
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Just wanted to say thanks for this thread. I'm having some issues with my battery draining - and today was able to kick start it no problem twice. Much better than the last time that I tried when I furiously went at it for 10 minutes only to give up amidst much sweating and swearing.
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Old 06-02-2013, 11:17 PM   #139
psychocandy
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Anyone else have the problem where if they kick it real hard, all the way through, it pops into gear? That kinda weirds me out. I know the bike will kinda help you through the bottom half of the stroke, but if you go too far (on my bike) all of a sudden you're in gear. huh?
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Old 06-03-2013, 05:18 AM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psychocandy View Post
Anyone else have the problem where if they kick it real hard, all the way through, it pops into gear? That kinda weirds me out. I know the bike will kinda help you through the bottom half of the stroke, but if you go too far (on my bike) all of a sudden you're in gear. huh?
Keep in mind the gear selector shaft is routed thru the kickstart shaft.
So if something either outside between Kick- and shift lever is fouling, or even inside the Kickshaft this could happen.

It certainly is not normal behaviour, there is something not ok on your bike
I would start outside between Kick and Shift Lever
Maybe take off the gear lever and try again

cu
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Old 06-03-2013, 10:59 AM   #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happe View Post
Keep in mind the gear selector shaft is routed thru the kickstart shaft.
So if something either outside between Kick- and shift lever is fouling, or even inside the Kickshaft this could happen.

It certainly is not normal behaviour, there is something not ok on your bike
I would start outside between Kick and Shift Lever
Maybe take off the gear lever and try again

cu
Stefan

Yep, I always kick mine when It's got both wheels on the ground so automatically dropping into gear would make things very exciting.
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Old 08-13-2013, 09:02 PM   #142
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Hey guys. I need some advice on my 95 620 rxc.
Bike sat for 8 years when I picked it up. Did thorough maintenance, oil, crank seal, filters, coolant, and tossed a new Fcr 41 on it from sudco. Before the thorough cleaning with the stock dellorto on the bike, you could park your car on the kicker and it wouldn't move. Now with everything put back together, it kicks through without having to use the decomp lever hardly at all. Now my question: is it kicking through more smoothly due to new oil and different carb and what not? is that the auto decomp working? or is there some underlying problem? I havent started it yet and it only has 1400 miles.
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Old 08-14-2013, 12:44 PM   #143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zantuning View Post
Hey guys. I need some advice on my 95 620 rxc.
Bike sat for 8 years when I picked it up. Did thorough maintenance, oil, crank seal, filters, coolant, and tossed a new Fcr 41 on it from sudco. Before the thorough cleaning with the stock dellorto on the bike, you could park your car on the kicker and it wouldn't move. Now with everything put back together, it kicks through without having to use the decomp lever hardly at all. Now my question: is it kicking through more smoothly due to new oil and different carb and what not? is that the auto decomp working? or is there some underlying problem? I havent started it yet and it only has 1400 miles.
Izzat a 2 smoke or a 4 stroke?
I can't keep up on KTM

If a 2 smoke, that crank seal is gonna be the first thing I'd check
Disable the compression release and see if you have compression


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Old 08-14-2013, 12:55 PM   #144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zantuning View Post
Hey guys. I need some advice on my 95 620 rxc.
Bike sat for 8 years when I picked it up. Did thorough maintenance, oil, crank seal, filters, coolant, and tossed a new Fcr 41 on it from sudco. Before the thorough cleaning with the stock dellorto on the bike, you could park your car on the kicker and it wouldn't move. Now with everything put back together, it kicks through without having to use the decomp lever hardly at all. Now my question: is it kicking through more smoothly due to new oil and different carb and what not? is that the auto decomp working? or is there some underlying problem? I havent started it yet and it only has 1400 miles.
Its a 4-stroke.

My bike got easier to kick thru with age, which I assume means my compression has dropped off.

With a rapid change I wonder if somethings wrong... Gunnerbuck is your man.
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Old 08-14-2013, 01:03 PM   #145
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I'm going to retrace some steps this week whenever it stops raining. Idk if I may of twisted something up with the decomp cable, I was in a hurry cause it was getting dark and I was being ate alive by mosquitoes....Thanks for the reference meat, I'll drop him a line after my second attempt.
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Old 04-06-2014, 11:19 AM   #146
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Need to revive this thread, as my estart isnt working for me on my new to me 04 smc, and so i tried this method, and every time i tried it spent 5-30+ mins trying to kick it before i got it started.

Im a smart guy, but an idiot when it comes to mechanical things like engines, because ive never had anyone teach me this kind of thing, and havent had anything to work on and learn myself, so if someone could translate this into idiot for me, id really appreciate it.

mostly what i don't understand is "holding the decomp lever and kicking it through a couple times for a new charge." what does doing this actually do?(don't understand what a new charge is) and do i need to repeat this step if i fail the final kick?

And then, what is TDC, and is there a certain *feel* i should look for to know when i've found it?
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Old 04-06-2014, 11:40 AM   #147
gravityisnotmyfriend
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Where in IA are you? I had a kick only KTM 620 for a few years. If you are ever near Newton I'd be happy to show you the technique in person.

The "charge" is a fresh mix of fuel and air in the cylinder. I usually only loaded a fresh charge when the bike was cold. Didn't need it when hot.

On my bike, I'd leave the decomp lever alone and start kicking the bike through. When it hit TDC (Top Dead Center), I'd know because I couldn't kick it any further. The kickstarter would just stop. Then, I'd pull the lever and push the kickstarter a little bit. I could feel it get past TDC. Then, let go of the decomp lever and give her hell. If everything was done correctly, it'd start on one kick.
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Old 04-06-2014, 05:33 PM   #148
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Im in cedar rapids area.

Got a new battery tonight cause the one I had was kinda weak after charge. Installed it, and the bike still wont start...
Any ideas why that might be?
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Old 04-06-2014, 05:35 PM   #149
Boon Booni
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I recently rebuilt my carb and my kick start technique had to change. It used to be as written in the thread. Full "choke"., kick through 6-7 times with decomp , then no decomp slow kick until it locks from compression, then decomp again and kick another inch, then no decomp and give it the balls.

Now I do the same process, but after the 6-7 kicks I turn off the "choke" before I give it the balls. Once she starts I might add a little throttle then add a little "choke" to get a fast idle.

When the bike is cold, it's much easier for me to kick start it than to try and run the e - start.

After that, it'll start up on the e-start all day long.
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Old 04-07-2014, 05:44 AM   #150
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recheck your battery installation, to make sure.
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