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Old 02-10-2007, 03:27 PM   #61
Zapp22
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Bluhduh

Puhhh-leease do NOT, under any circumstances, reveal the secret code of starting an XR650R. We must let Darwin do his work here..... that's how we get fresh, little-used XR650R's to strip and build!!!

KEEP QUIET OR THE CABAL WILL FIND YOU
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Old 02-10-2007, 04:38 PM   #62
XRNovice
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Kick'n the beast

I received my XR cause it's simple.

When the guys have these XR's they want to soop them up and don't realize that when you have a 11.1 compression ratio, it gets even harder to kick

Have you guys ever kicked your bikes over with the decomp in and release the lever as soon as it reaches TDC to fire her up?

A friend of mine does that, but I would think it causes damage to the decomp mechanism......... I have the decomp with 2 cables and it seems pretty weird


Any of you guys know how it works?
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Old 02-10-2007, 05:58 PM   #63
R3B
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Starting ye ol'XT, by de XTdokter

My procedure.

(much the same as already written)

If fallen, first Clear its throat cause chances are feul has seeped in the chamber and fouled the plug. (works too if you were pumping to no avail)

01: Open throttle totally so it can't get an good mixture (leans out) and pull decompressor and *keep* it that way (it can't spit back that way cause no compression)

02: Pump till the *Whump*, at that time the sparkplug fires and ignites the toolean mixture, so you know it can ignite good mixture.

03: push down the kick till you meet the french resistance, (be gentle to the nice lady...)

04: Just Push it *way easy* into TDC (top dead centre),

04 a: first time just try to feel it, if one pushes real gently (let time do the work) you will feel that compression at TDC actually consist of three distinct fases
a: The French Resistance (you have to use some force or time)
b: The Spatial interlude (kick moves a wee little bit without resistance)
c: The Big Suck (you feel a verry meek resistance)
The trick is to *STOP* in b: The Spatial Interlude !!!
If you got the feeling of how *little* to ease the kick over tot TDC one can use the decompresion lever, but beware most peaople push it over to far and than you hit the next TDC at the end of travel, that can urt if one kicks to slow or wit force, it's Speed you Need

05 Let the Kick come to shove all the way up (see if the rubber of the kick is in parralel whit the header, lots of elder XT, have the a notch leaned over backwards so you lose a bit travel, correct that situation !)

06 06 06 The all important Devilish part, KICK IT , but, Don't use da Force!
Sounds weird aye? Well here comes a little human anatomy into the account, if one prepares to use Force, man contracts both muscle pairs in his leg, actually slowing your leg because the antagonist has to be stretched again eatingusefull energy !

One doesn't need any Force, One has the Need for Speed, try it, or look at sporters fast runners are lean and mean weightlifters ar Slow.

What one needs is Speed pure and simple, and it has to come real Late, jsut as one's foot is really close to the peg it must be top speed to Yank the piston through next TDC.

So don't use Force, but build up momentum on the way down, kisk it fast and friendly *ALL* the way down, it only kicks back if one is *afraid* of kickback like dogs only bite when one is afraid they will bite, an XT is an old Dog at that it sniffs the angst instantly.

Kick it like your dancing the Sevillana, Olé !

07 Drive away, popping a nice wheely (only if engine warm of course)

Addendum:

About the Gas:
If Cold: first try without choke!, just wip it, a good tuned XT starts on first kick. Keep your hand *off* the gas !
If verry Cold: choke half way. Keep your hand *off* the gas !
If warm: place your thumb on the lightknob (or with amaricans were it should be :-) and trickle the gas open 2 mm (3/32"?) and keep your thumb firm under pressure so you can't yank the gas. (some newer XT's and SR's have a little white knob under the carb cantilever)

If you follow this rule of thumb a XT is a Little lamb which can be started by hand, or any girl in the neighbourhood



P.S. on old XT's the earlier mentioned saveguard that pulls the kick free at the bottom of the travel is mostly lying broken off in the bellypan and does not function anymore (sometimes if you are in bad luck it is pushed out at the back of the engne)

Hope my english is understandable :-)
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Old 02-12-2007, 09:16 AM   #64
meat popsicle OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRNovice
I received my XR cause it's simple.

When the guys have these XR's they want to soop them up and don't realize that when you have a 11.1 compression ratio, it gets even harder to kick

Have you guys ever kicked your bikes over with the decomp in and release the lever as soon as it reaches TDC to fire her up?

A friend of mine does that, but I would think it causes damage to the decomp mechanism......... I have the decomp with 2 cables and it seems pretty weird


Any of you guys know how it works?
Did ya read the method on Page 1 of this thread?

If you use the decomp lever to get the stroke slightly past the top of the compression stroke you will find it much easier to kick thru.
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Old 02-12-2007, 09:33 AM   #65
Happe
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Here is how to kickstart the beast,

Hiya,

sorry for the first minute, but I had to put the newly build engine in first.
Old 620 engine base, 660 crank and HighFlow Head with Sumo cam.
Count the real kicks between putting on the tank and it fireing up

cu
Stefan
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Old 02-12-2007, 12:17 PM   #66
jonpcovington
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Of course, there are always the exceptions- Fred. Fred was 6'6", 375 lb. Fred didn't bother with the compression release. It was like an XR100 to him.
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Old 02-24-2007, 09:03 PM   #67
Fantman
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I had posted some time ago regarding starting my '97 KTM Duke. The problem has been solved. It is a one or two kick starter now, hot or cold.

First thing was to replace the aging battery. Second thing was to put in the proper sparkplug. The dipsh** previous owner put in an extended plug for some reason, probably thought he was upping the compression and therefore the power. Third thing was to richen up the idle mixture.

Just like several people said, if everything is right, it should be an easy starter.

KJW
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Old 05-08-2007, 01:39 PM   #68
txrider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fantman
I had posted some time ago regarding starting my '97 KTM Duke. The problem has been solved. It is a one or two kick starter now, hot or cold.

First thing was to replace the aging battery. Second thing was to put in the proper sparkplug. The dipsh** previous owner put in an extended plug for some reason, probably thought he was upping the compression and therefore the power. Third thing was to richen up the idle mixture.

Just like several people said, if everything is right, it should be an easy starter.

KJW
I don't even bother with the comp release normally. Just keep a good plug in, good tune, and "leave the throttle alone" on my '96, kicks fine even when on the bike kicking with my left leg. If it doesn't one good off the bike kick with right leg usually does it.

'04 SXC the same, don't touch throttle, roll the kickstarter through a few times until I feel compression, and kick it.

I -might- give em one shot of gas from the throttle (pumper carb) when they are cold and it's cold outside but that's the only time I use the throttle.

Course I'm 6'3 and 200+ and have been kicking bikes since the 70's. Having a street bike my FZ-1 with no kickstart is a bit weird to me, though the young'uns stare at me all weird like when they see me kicking the old RXC. I don't think some of em (street riders) have ever seen a bike kickstarted before.
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Old 05-08-2007, 08:54 PM   #69
Stu
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Kick Starting the EXC 525

Meat, your post is right on. I've used your method for years and it works on the old Brit stuff as well.

The new KTM 525 has a few differences and this is my drill for it:

Cold starting:
1) Auto decompression, no external cable hookup any more (a cost move?) so go to step (2)
2) Turn on fuel -- and key, if one. Bring engine to about 5 degrees past TDC, or just past.
3) If below about 55 degrees pull the choke on.
4) Snap the throttle open completely ONCE to get gas into the intake via the accelerator pump. (TWICE if below about 40 degrees). No more or you will flood it.
5) With the hand completely off the throttle run the kickstarter thru thoroughly, forcefully all the way to the bottom. Mine kick starts with 1 to 3 kicks cold.

Hot starting:
2) as above, then,
5) as above. Mine usually starts with one kick. (Note that the '07 KTMs do not have a hot start button as some of the older models had, unfortunately, so kick with vigor.)

Stu
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Old 06-12-2007, 01:08 PM   #70
southpawCG
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Kick starter won't come out

Hello,

I have a 2000 640 LC4 Adventure...

...and the kick-starter ABSOLUTELY will not BUDGE! It is LOCKED into the 'closed' position, and will not rotate outwards so that I can kick the motor over.

Is there some kind of lock, or pin that holds it in place or something?
Is this a noob issue, do I have to have, like, the CLUTCH in or some weird crap to disengage the kick-starter?

Or is it just really, really, really stiff?
I've, like, bashed on it with a hammer, used WD-40, the thing STILL won't budge!

Appreciate any help, thanks ~

-Southpaw
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Old 06-12-2007, 02:45 PM   #71
Laromonster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by southpawCG
Hello,

I have a 2000 640 LC4 Adventure...

...and the kick-starter ABSOLUTELY will not BUDGE! It is LOCKED into the 'closed' position, and will not rotate outwards so that I can kick the motor over.

Is there some kind of lock, or pin that holds it in place or something?
Is this a noob issue, do I have to have, like, the CLUTCH in or some weird crap to disengage the kick-starter?

Or is it just really, really, really stiff?
I've, like, bashed on it with a hammer, used WD-40, the thing STILL won't budge!

Appreciate any help, thanks ~

-Southpaw
I am guessing something is amiss with the detent that keeps it tucked in, try more soakage with WD 40 if that fails try disassembling the offending apparatus
There is no kick starter locking device.. it must be gunkafied beyond belief
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Old 06-12-2007, 02:52 PM   #72
Stu
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Frozen Lever

It sounds like the lever is rusted and frozen at the hinge. Since the support stud goes up into the upper part that swings out I think you are going to have to remove the lever and try a good penetrant in the joint. Work the lever hinge as you put in the penetrating oil while holding the lever upside down so the oil will flow into the top half -- eventually. (WD-40 is better than nothing.) When you start to get movement you know you are getting the oil into the rust.

If it is really stubborn stick it in a small jar of light oil (5wt fork oil, for example) overnight and start again.

If you cannot get it free you may have to disassemble it. Look at a parts book to get an idea about taking it apart and internal parts you don't want to get lost.

Stu
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Old 06-12-2007, 05:28 PM   #73
meat popsicle OP
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I would echo the rest of the brethren, that your lever has problems because there is no locking mechanism. What is surprising is that your 2000 has kick starter lever issues... how is the rest of the bike? If the rest of the bike is fine then perhaps something bad happened during operation of the lever. New one to me - let us know if you need further assistance; there are folks about who are very good mechanics and knows these bikes.
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Old 03-14-2008, 05:53 PM   #74
thumper477
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starting a ktm

back a few years ago we were camped out at a fall dual sport ride. we awoke to 30 degree weather and snow flurries.when i finally went outside the motorhome i had to scrape ice off the ktm's seat.my friend bill was busting my balls all morning about how his electric start dr 350 was gonna fire right up while i probably would have to kick my ass off trying to fire up the ktm. you shoulda seen the look on his face when it fired on the first kick and stayed running.his dr on full choke stalled about 15 times before it would stay lit! that made my day!
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Old 09-30-2008, 12:41 PM   #75
dancolin
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Kickin the bitch

Just wanted to Share how i kickstart these monsters. I havent read where anyone else does it this way but maybe i missed something. When i try and kick it the "right way" as most of you guys do, it works for me about 50% of the time.. (work meaning starts easily) the rest of the time i seem to have the compression stroke location wrong with the decomp release stuff blah blah blah..u get my point.. So what i do and works REALLY easy for me is I hold in the decompression release for every kick and let go of it at the bottom of the kick. i would say i release it at about 75% of the kick if that makes sense. Always works for me and is super easy to kick this way.. i can do it sitting on the bike while i have the other foot on the ground holding the bike up (instead of being on the stand) You also dont need to worry about TDC or any of that stuff.. just hold the lever in and let go right before the bottom.. Almost always starts 1st kick when warm.. when cold.. 2-4 is about what it takes..im waitin for my starter clutch spraig thingy so i been kickin alot lately. anyhow thats what works for me and i haven't seen many others describe this method. try it.. u might like it.
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