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Old 10-07-2013, 03:58 AM   #16
Gustavo.Ramos
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I just got new tyres and only when putting front wheel back on I noticed it did not spin freely.

Am I right in thinking that it should spin with NO drag from the callipers?
Not absolutely no drag, there's always contact between rotors and pads, but slight friction only when brake are not applied.

In my case the wheel isnt free and it does half turn or so... I'll be removing the calipers and give them a good cleanup.
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Old 10-07-2013, 08:37 AM   #17
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What's an MOT?
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Old 10-07-2013, 09:15 AM   #18
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What's an MOT?
Ministry Of Transport test, kind of an inspection done (and paid) on a regular basis for specific safety items of a vehicle
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Old 10-07-2013, 04:49 PM   #19
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did as suggested, took calipers out, removed pads, sanded the pins, applied brake cleaner, brushed, pushed the pistons in, then pumped them out.. Repeated this several times.

It's better, but not near good enough :/

guess its time to strip these down a check the orings.
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Old 10-07-2013, 06:43 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Gustavo.Ramos View Post
did as suggested, took calipers out, removed pads, sanded the pins, applied brake cleaner, brushed, pushed the pistons in, then pumped them out.. Repeated this several times.

It's better, but not near good enough :/

guess its time to strip these down a check the orings.
Are you sure the disks aren't warped? You can usually feel that issue by the chatter when you brake. At 40k miles on my front disks, I can tell you mine are DEFINITELY warped.
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Old 10-08-2013, 03:06 AM   #21
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Are you sure the disks aren't warped? You can usually feel that issue by the chatter when you brake. At 40k miles on my front disks, I can tell you mine are DEFINITELY warped.
I'm sure. the sticking is constant, when braking, the feel in the lever is constant, my 690 has a rear warped disk and i know it every time press the brake pedal!

Bearings are ok to. Will verify the axle.
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Old 10-13-2013, 12:26 AM   #22
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I sorted my brakes (well a good mate did)!

You might remember that they were dragging and at best I could spin the wheel for one revolution when it was on the stand.

What we found is that the split pin (you will see it if looking up at the bottom of the caliper) was slightly bent so was not sitting straight. It wasn't letting the pad come all the way off the disk.

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Old 10-13-2013, 03:57 AM   #23
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What we found is that the split pin (you will see it if looking up at the bottom of the caliper) was slightly bent so was not sitting straight. It wasn't letting the pad come all the way off the disk.

Kiwi Mike
How did you bent that pin, on both sides!?

I've ordered new caliper seals, already tore everything apart, no scoring on the pistons, bleed the system several times, no bubbles, the pistons won't retract as much as necessary.

In both sides if slightly push the caliper in, they move and wheel is released...

Could winter storage cause both caliper seals to be sweled?
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Old 10-13-2013, 12:07 PM   #24
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How did you bent that pin, on both sides!?

I've ordered new caliper seals, already tore everything apart, no scoring on the pistons, bleed the system several times, no bubbles, the pistons won't retract as much as necessary.

In both sides if slightly push the caliper in, they move and wheel is released...

Could winter storage cause both caliper seals to be sweled?
Only one was bent.

Not sure why it was bent, however I have just put new tyres on and while the wheels were off the bike sat on the main stand resting on forks / brakes on the front. Unfortunately I don't know what the wheel was like before I took it off.
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Old 10-13-2013, 01:34 PM   #25
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The calipers have just one seal per piston.
Pump the pistons all the way out, carefully remove the seal with a small screwdriver. Then you will find the grooves that the seals go into are dirty, this makes the seals grab the piston too tightly. Clean the dirt out the grooves with a toothbrush and brake cleaner. Clean the pistons and seas. Soak the seals with brake fluid and refit. Wet the pistons with brake fluid and refit.

Pull the caliper off the carrier and apply silicon grease to the pins.

Then refit the caliper and pads and bleed.
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Old 10-13-2013, 03:25 PM   #26
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The calipers have just one seal per piston.
Pump the pistons all the way out, carefully remove the seal with a small screwdriver. Then you will find the grooves that the seals go into are dirty, this makes the seals grab the piston too tightly. Clean the dirt out the grooves with a toothbrush and brake cleaner. Clean the pistons and seas. Soak the seals with brake fluid and refit. Wet the pistons with brake fluid and refit.

Pull the caliper off the carrier and apply silicon grease to the pins.

Then refit the caliper and pads and bleed.
Hi Peanuts,

Sorry, each piston has 2 seals. Inner is bigger than the outter, and yes the outter has small grooves, the inner is wider and has no grooves.

Know this because already did as suggested and removed the pistons. With shop paper cleaned the grooved one and all the housing. Had a bit of debris but didn't remove them from the caliper, thought about a screwdriver, but got nervous of the combo screwdriver+rubber seals.

I'm waiting for replacement seals to arrive, then i'll take the seals off, if anything goes wrong there'll be replacements available.
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Old 10-13-2013, 04:23 PM   #27
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Hi Peanuts,

Sorry, each piston has 2 seals. Inner is bigger than the outter, and yes the outter has small grooves, the inner is wider and has no grooves.

Know this because already did as suggested and removed the pistons. With shop paper cleaned the grooved one and all the housing. Had a bit of debris but didn't remove them from the caliper, thought about a screwdriver, but got nervous of the combo screwdriver+rubber seals.

I'm waiting for replacement seals to arrive, then i'll take the seals off, if anything goes wrong there'll be replacements available.
Yeah, sorry there are 2 seals per piston. Anyhow the principle is the same, its the dirt and corosion that makes the seals grip the piston too tight.
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