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Old 01-09-2011, 08:04 AM   #1
concours OP
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Burning bridges

So my moto bud and I are tearing down the old Limey last night, 30 years since we did it the last time. Figured we'd clean the sludge trap and replace the bearings (100,000 miles in it) and when we got to the right hand main bearing, the crank wouldn't slide, or tap out of the bearing. After lots of bright lights, several pair of reading glasses, we were both astounded to see that end of the crankshaft had been PEENED over with what looks like and air chisel to tighten the fit in the bearing. Because of the radius on the I.D. of the inner race, it's mushroomed over pretty good. Just fugging wow. I'm pretty sure the shop he had balance it 30 years ago did this... but it wasn't mentioned at the time. It's worked great for a long time, but now it's a bitch. I'm thinking a milling machine, an adjustable boring bar and plunge just enough to remove the crank material peened over into the radius. Any other thoughts??



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Old 01-09-2011, 08:09 AM   #2
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Abetter view:





And why the points and later the Boyer were damp...

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Old 01-09-2011, 08:13 AM   #3
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Aluminum rods with steel caps...

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Old 01-09-2011, 09:11 AM   #4
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I port heads so my skill with a die grinder is high. I'd attempt using a die grinder w/carbide. Always the easy way first. The boring bar thing may work but what's you time worth? That's a bitch of a set up. If the mill is in your basement and the time is free sure. Paying someone else would make it a last ditch effort.
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Old 01-09-2011, 09:53 AM   #5
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like anotherguy said I would try the old die grinder.

Other options run a bit of weld on the bearing if you access it, hopefully get it brittle then crack it.

Heat it and then cool it to break but thats difficult.

or drill through the bearing in a lot of places remove it bit by bit.
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Old 01-09-2011, 10:35 AM   #6
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can you gently heat on the case half itself enougth to expand ???? then maybe spray the end of the crank with some refrigerant. you could use a pipe to spary in and keep the refrigerant off the warmed up part.
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Old 01-09-2011, 10:45 AM   #7
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can you gently heat on the case half itself enougth to expand ???? then maybe spray the end of the crank with some refrigerant. you could use a pipe to spary in and keep the refrigerant off the warmed up part.
Good thought, but the bearing is retained in the case by a circlip, on the inside. It's inaccessable until the crank slides out of the bearing. If it was just a tiight fit, the heat/liquid nitrogen deal might work, and may still be needed, but I think first we need to remove the peened over end. I forgot to mention the hammer marks on the case around the O.D. of the bearing boss appear random, no idea who would have done it or why.
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Old 01-09-2011, 10:49 AM   #8
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like anotherguy said I would try the old die grinder.

Other options run a bit of weld on the bearing if you access it, hopefully get it brittle then crack it.

Heat it and then cool it to break but thats difficult.

or drill through the bearing in a lot of places remove it bit by bit.
I've got a bunch of die grinders, different carbide bits, the sharpest point cone shape I have will still have a 1/64" radius that will be hard to get into the part line. It may be the only option. Anyone have a Rocklinizer? Tap removal device, maybe I could shatter the race..
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Old 01-09-2011, 10:51 AM   #9
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I port heads so my skill with a die grinder is high. I'd attempt using a die grinder w/carbide. Always the easy way first. The boring bar thing may work but what's you time worth? That's a bitch of a set up. If the mill is in your basement and the time is free sure. Paying someone else would make it a last ditch effort.
You're right, the set-up would be lengthy. I have access to mills, for free, but probably need to buy the boring bar I need. Just trying to save this crankshaft, it's been a peach! SMOOTH and reliable. The custom balancing job was money well spent!
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Old 01-09-2011, 01:45 PM   #10
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I gotta go with cutting out a piece of the inner race & then nocking out the balls. It'll be a bitch to drill.... mebby a cut off wheel on a Moto tool/ Dremel. The other thing that would work if you have the stones is an oxy/acytlene torch... really. Do short burns & quench to maintain the temper of the other parts. I have burned broken studs out of aluminum cylinders more than a couple times... just takes a good aim. The heat transfer of aluminum is much higher than steel, so you can get the steel burning before the alu melts.


You dont have to cut the race all the way through... only enough to get the balls out.
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Old 01-09-2011, 01:57 PM   #11
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You have access to a RAM EDM? Burn the cage and a ball or two from the bearing,it will then come apart. Then proceed to deal with the inner race unencumbered by the case.
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Old 01-09-2011, 02:32 PM   #12
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I gotta go with cutting out a piece of the inner race & then nocking out the balls. It'll be a bitch to drill.... mebby a cut off wheel on a Moto tool/ Dremel. The other thing that would work if you have the stones is an oxy/acytlene torch... really. Do short burns & quench to maintain the temper of the other parts. I have burned broken studs out of aluminum cylinders more than a couple times... just takes a good aim. The heat transfer of aluminum is much higher than steel, so you can get the steel burning before the alu melts.


You dont have to cut the race all the way through... only enough to get the balls out.
The cage is brass... I wish it were stamped steel in this case! I ain't skared to stick the blue tip wrench in a gnarly place. I'm gonna think on that one some more.
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Old 01-09-2011, 02:32 PM   #13
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You have access to a RAM EDM? Burn the cage and a ball or two from the bearing,it will then come apart. Then proceed to deal with the inner race unencumbered by the case.

Not sure I know what that is... different than wire EDM, I assume. Do tell..
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Old 01-09-2011, 02:44 PM   #14
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Instead of using wire it uses a carbon electrode that plunges into the material and burns it away. The material is submerged in the dielectric fluid and the RAM can be shaped into virtually any shape. We used a small one called a sparkdrill to remove impossibly broken bolts,drills,mills and taps without damaging threads in expensive machined parts or even threads. They're mostly used in mold and die making. Takes a bit of experience to get good with one.
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Old 01-09-2011, 03:14 PM   #15
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Your initial idea would probably work. You'd have to do some surgery on a boring bar to get it to fit in there, but you wouldn't have to take a lot of metal out to free it up.

I've done a lot of these engines, and what usually happens here is that some butcher who doesn't have the proper puller will beat on the end of the crank trying to get the gear off, not realizing there's a key in there that won't pass through the bearing.

I don't think I've seen a crank that's been loose in that bearing bore. It's not a press fit to begin with. What year is the engine? It makes a difference in bearing size because in the late 60s, they changed from inch size bearings to metric size.
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