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Old 02-07-2011, 01:52 PM   #61
Camel ADV OP
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The road that was supposed to be amazing was a total bust. It was nothing more than a long flat rocky gravel road. I'm guessing there was a miscommunication between Eric and I about the road location or perhaps between the LandRover people and Eric. There are a few roads that are basically parallel to the main one that I was on. I'm guessing one of them was the good one.

Not what I was expecting.










I was expecting to spend the day on that 100km section but since it was a breeze I was way ahead of where I planned to be. I started looking at the map and the date then realized that I had enough time to get to the Copan Ruins for a day then make it to San Salvador for the end of the BMW rally. It looked like it would be a busy few days.

I didn't know much about the BMW event other than several other riders I had meet said it was alway huge and a great time. I didn't know where it was in San Salvador and that isn't a city I had any desire to just go exploring in. I sent out some emails and PMs in hopes of getting more info. In the meantime I headed to Copan Ruins.

The town of Copan is much like any other touristy place in Central America. It has a good selection of businesses run by locals and several run by ex-pats. Lots of little clubs, pubs and shops. It seems lately that everywhere I've been, I'm the only one there. Hotels are empty, restaurants too. It's like a ghost town. I know peak season is over but it seems strange that there are so few people around. I've been staying in hotels lately, in private rooms since there haven't been backpacking hostels available. I opted for a dorm room in a hostel this time in an attempt to meet some new people. Too bad the hostel was empty!

They have 3 dorm rooms and 3 privates. A total of 20 something spots. With me, there were 3 of us. It seemed natural that since there were only 3 of us that we should go do something. I'm not sure what happens on the road but the process of building relationship is much faster than in regular life. Everyones just passing through and there's not a lot of time for feeling people out so it seem you make friends very quickly.

Stephane, a very attractive Swiss girl, Graham, a police detective from the UK and I headed out for lunch early in the afternoon and it was almost 3am by the time we got back to the hostel. So much for getting up early, seeing the ruins and then heading toward San Salvador!

Stephane was up early and caught a bus to the coast on her way to the Bay Islands. Graham and I didn't come back to life until nearly noon. After a quick breakfast and lots of Advil, we head to the Copan Ruins.

I'm not sure what I was expecting but that wasn't it. After Teotihuacan, Chichan Itza and Tikal, Copan was a bit lacking. The ruins are in good shape but there's not a lot there. I think that if they were in Mexico, no one would go but because they are the biggest and best in Honduras they get a lot of press. In under an hour we had seen what there was to see and were headed back to the town.





My Airhawk had been leaking since La Paz in Baja on the way down. The numerous attempts to patch it had failed and my ass had finally had enough. Anyone with an F800GS will likely agree that the seat is awful. Even after months on it, I'm not used to it. While Graham and I were walking down the street I noticed a sewing shop with some foam on the shelf. After quickly running back to the hostel to get the seat off my bike, I returned and bought a chunk of foam and cut it in the shape of the Airhawk cushion, problem solved.





Like I was saying with new friendships on the road, the same seems to be true for other relationships. Fabiola works at a local bar run by her sister. Fabiola is spicy, feisty girl with loads of personality. With in minutes of meeting her, I liked her, really liked her. It was pretty clear she felt the same way.

My one day in Copan ended up being 4.

One of the best things about travelling is all the great people you meet. For me, the worst part about travelling is also all the great people you meet. I hate good byes, always have. After spending 2 days with Fabi, I was in a place I really liked but didn't want to be. I had meet someone amazing that despite being from total different backgrounds and cultures, we had so much in common. But we both knew I was leaving. That's tough. I could have stayed a week, I have the time but I knew if I stayed a week, I would end up extending it to 2 then 3 then a month and then it would be nearly impossible to leave. It was very difficult to leave after only 2 days but with tears in her eyes, I said goodbye.

With a lump in my throat and watery eyes myself, I rode out of town toward the Guatemala border. With the extra days in Copan, I had missed the BMW rally in San Salvador completely. Oh well, choosing between a bunch of guys on bikes or a sexy chica wasn't a difficult choice to make!

At the border there were no helpers…anywhere. No one came running out, no one flagged me in, even the officials. I think I could have ridden right through and no one would have stopped me.

I was out of the Honduras side in under 10mins. As always, if there's drama, it seems to come when you go to get the bike in or out of a country. Unlike a lot of borders down here that seem to be in the stone ages as far as technology goes, Guatemala borders are all linked online. No big paper ledger or mountains of forms sitting in piles that no one will ever look at again. When the customs woman typed my bike VIN in the system she said, "I'm sorry for you, big problem, you can't bring this bike into Guatemala". Ah, what? It seems that on the way out of Guatemala on the way down, some of the paperwork wasn't done properly and my bike has been flagged, or rather I've been flagged as not being able to import vehicles into the country. This was going to be a problem.

After 30mins of trying to clarify and sort out the issue, it was obvious I was making no head way. I asked to speak with a manager or supervisor. I did and got nowhere. The customs woman kept saying I should go back into Honduras and re-enter Guatemala at a different crossing. I didn't understand why and she wasn't having any luck explaining it to me.

I remembered seeing an ad in a travel magazine I was reading advertising a ferry service from Puerto Cortes, Honduras to Punta Gorda Belize, which of course would cut Guatemala out all together. Problem solved…I thought.

With Guatemalan customs lady in tow, I went back to the Honduras side to explain why I was returning to Honduras and that I needed to keep the vehicle permit I had just handed in less than an hour ago. The Honduras official pulled out the document and showed me that it was now cancelled and said it couldn't be reinstated. OK, fine, I'll go through the process again and pay the $35 road tax again so I can get back into Honduras. He said no, that the permits were good for 30days and until the one I just handed back in expired (in 24days), I couldn't reimport the bike until that 24days went by.

So now, I'm stuck between 2 borders that will allow me to enter the country but won't let my bike. WTF do I do now?!

After another 30mins with the Guatemalan side and more phone calls, the lady tells me I have 24hrs to get through the country and that I have to use the border crossing at La Mesilla to leave as she will call ahead to let them know what is happening. The Pan-American crossing is totally kitty corner across the country! On top of that, she refuses to give me a name or reference number to use once I get to the crossing. In fact, she took her name tag off and put it on backward so her name wasn't showing. I had written her name down before that though. I said I'd really like a reference number or something since as soon as I entered Guatemala I would be technically riding a bike that was illegally in the country. She said "Aqua Caliente". What? She wrote it down. K, so that says hot water….was that a password or… I asked for an explanation and all she would say was Aqua caliente over and over. Hmmm. She swore there'd be no problem, that her manager would call ahead but refused to give me her bosses name or phone number.

She walked down to the gate and talked to the guards that normally look over all your papers before you. They didn't look at anything, just opened the gate. I rode away with no import papers. Yikes.

I get about 20km from the border and start to see signs for a border crossing called Aqua Caliente. It all made sense now. They wanted me to say that I had come through that crossing rather than the one at El Florido so they don't get in trouble for letting me enter with no papers. I suspect they aren't going to call ahead either. I could probably cross wherever and have the same luck (whatever that luck maybe).

24hrs across Guatemala really messes with my plans. I had intended to take 2 weeks of Spanish school in Antigua. There are a few people I really wanted to see again (also Antigua). I have 7 weeks left to travel. I rented my house so I'm homeless until April 1st. We spent 5 weeks in Mexico on the way down and but only 2 in Guatemala and I was looking forward to exploring it more before crossing back into Mexico. Not that having a couple more weeks in Mexico is a bad thing, it's just not what I had planned. Had I known things were going to go this way, I'd have signed up for Spanish in Copan and stayed with Fabi. Sigh, I need a crystal ball.

A few things I've been expecting but haven't seen yet happened one right after the other shortly beyond the border…foreshadowing of things to come? Hopefully not.

I've seen people write about locals stretching a rope across the road in order to get bikers to stop. Rather than hit the rope, get tangled up and likely crash, riders stop then get robbed. I came around the corner and saw the red rope with small flags attached for visibility. Here we go I thought. There was only one person holding it. If I was going to crash, it was going to be into them. I dropped a gear, sped up and pointed my bike right them. The person got the hint, dropped the rope and stepped aside. As I rode past, I saw it was an old lady. She looked really pathetic. I had the urge to stop and give her a few dollars but the last thing I wanted to do was reward her behaviour. Tough life for a lot of people here, it's sad.

Shortly after that, I came around a corner, there was a bike in front of me. A car coming the other directing was flashing it's headlights which happens all the time. People are either trying to tell me my lights are are on, there are police ahead or they flash their lights, honk their honk and give me a thumbs up as I ride by. This was different. The driver of the car had an urgent look on his face and was motioning to turn around. The local bike in front of my slowed, made a U turn motioned for me to do the same then sped off. I slowed, peaked around the apex of the curve and saw several men dressed in black with guns in the road. No big deal, it's Guatemala. Likely just a police or military check point. More locals turing around and speeding off and tell me to do the same. I turned around and followed the line of traffic detouring the men in black. I still have no idea who they were or what they were doing.

As I followed the line of traffic through town and down a back road that looped around the roadblock, I saw were 3 cars pulled off to the side of the road. One had the hood up and the others looked to be help with repairs. The local on the bike stopped to help but got spooked for some reason and took off spraying gravel everywhere. Several other cars sped off in all directions too. Again, I had no idea what was going on in either situation but the locals were freaked out making u-turns and speeding past the broken down car and I decided to follow suit.

I stopped just before dark at a hotel just short of Purulha. Sat and reflected a bit on the day. It is without a doubt, the strangest day of the trip so far.

Randoms:

Bimbo Bread...always makes me laugh.


This Mayan King was the first in the village to get a BlueTooth headset.


Mannequins here have a little more junk in the trunk than at home. KAPOW! Nice butt.


Men here don't understand women either.
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Old 02-07-2011, 02:10 PM   #62
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......Oh well, choosing between a bunch of guys on bikes or a sexy chica wasn't a difficult choice to make!....
It's ok. We know....
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Old 02-07-2011, 03:26 PM   #63
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Cory
when you left Guatemala on the way south they let you keep the TVIP and it is good for the number of days stamped in your passport I always ask for 90 days or the TVIP will have the date hole punched out when it expires, usually if you dont ask it is good for 60 days. It appears that you did not cancell the permit on the way south and it expired while you were out of the country?
I would be tempted now to just go to your spanish lessons and deal with the permit later or just ride out of Guatemala with out stopping. I quess it pays to pay attention to your dates and paper work.
The problem lies in the future when you return you will be flagged for not taking the bike out and it seems I always want to go back to Guatemala!!!
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Old 02-07-2011, 04:24 PM   #64
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Cory
when you left Guatemala on the way south they let you keep the TVIP and it is good for the number of days stamped in your passport I always ask for 90 days or the TVIP will have the date hole punched out when it expires, usually if you dont ask it is good for 60 days. It appears that you did not cancell the permit on the way south and it expired while you were out of the country?
I would be tempted now to just go to your spanish lessons and deal with the permit later or just ride out of Guatemala with out stopping. I quess it pays to pay attention to your dates and paper work.
The problem lies in the future when you return you will be flagged for not taking the bike out and it seems I always want to go back to Guatemala!!!
Cal
The details are not clear due to the language barrier but I suspect you are correct that it's related to TVIP dates. 60 or 90 days would still be in effect as we didn't enter Guatemala until late December

When we left Guatemala last time there was a 4hr wait to get TVIP paperwork done. There was a huge stack of paper on buddies desk and he was just stamping, signing and tossing. Who knows what may have happened.

I didn't make the border in the 24 hour period (2pm today). I got 60km from the border and there was a bunch of farmers that had blocked the road protesting something or other. Traffic was backed up for miles and miles. They picked a good spot for it as there's no good way around them before the border.

I lane split to the front of the line and hung out for a bit. Since the protesters had bbqs, coolers and hammock's strung up, it seemed obvious that they planned on staying a while. A group of drivers angrily made their way up to the front and I decided to bail rather than get caught in the middle of something unpleasant



Since the bike is in illegally now, I want to get it out asap. I can take school in San Cristobal, Mexico but I would have liked to see friends in Antigua.

I don't recall when we left Guatemala last time if there was a gated check point ensuring you had all your required paperwork. If not, then I'll roll in, get my passport stamped out of the country and ride into Mexico. If there is a check point and they ask for my bike exit papers then I'll have some explaining to do. I'll likely fall back on my "Lo siento, yo hablo muy poco español". It's served me well so far.

Based on what I've seen so far down here, even if I get called on it, they will likely tell me I need to pay a "fine" for which there will be no receipt and I'll be on my way.

Of course maybe my bike will be impounded and I'll be arrested for smuggling. Time will tell.
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Old 02-07-2011, 04:40 PM   #65
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If I remember correctly at La Messilla it is a bit confusing, lots of vendor stalls on the Mexican side, if there is a gate which I am not sure of, you can say you are just going to visit one of the vendors in Mexico. I think that the Imigracion and aduana are in the same building so park your bike a block away and ask a guard with a machine gun to watch your helmet and bike, and walk up to the window......or get a translater and find out what the real problem is they are very pleasant at La Mesilla, as for huge stacks of paper the Guatemalan customs is run by conected computers and very efficient. You need..... to take some serious Spanish lessons, by the way we met at a Bragg Creek horizons breakfast, I think?
Do you still have your window hologram TVIP?
saludos Cal
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Old 02-07-2011, 04:41 PM   #66
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Transformer liquid?

So hopefully it only had mineral oil in it but older oils contain PCBs. This was banned many years ago in the US but who knows in Honduras. PCBs are highly carcenogenic and easily absorbed through the skin. I would take a shower and don't use your bare hands when cleaning the bike.
I'm hoping it was just oil and nothing more. No way to tell now

Where are you now John? FYI you would have had a blast riding the off-the-beaten-path Honduras stuff. I was thinking about you when I was there. Hmm, that sounds kinda creepy...

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Rock on Cory! Glad to hear you're loving Honduras! We're in Puerto Viejo per your advice and plan to chill for a day or two and spend some time in the waves before heading into Panama.

We had a great time hanging with you in San Juan del Sur hope to see you again on the road sometime!

Eric + Sabrina
I've noticed that you tend to run in to the same people over and over when on the road. I have no doubt we'll cross paths in the future.

Are you at Rockin' J's in PV? Check out Tasty Waves yet?

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thats the talk I like ... ride on Oso, ride on
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I can see from your writing and your attitude that you are fully in the groove. It takes some time on the road for your head to get into that mode but once you are there the enjoyment factor increases exponentially. This is what it is all about.
Mundo and Vinny, yeah, things have been really good the last couple weeks. The ridings been great, the places amazing and I've met some wonderful people too. I feel like I'm in the groove for sure. Add some road blocks, botched TVIPs, some border drama, a road romance or 2 and all the sudden it's feeling like a proper adventure rather than just a bike ride
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Old 02-07-2011, 04:50 PM   #67
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If I remember correctly at La Messilla it is a bit confusing, lots of vendor stalls on the Mexican side, if there is a gate which I am not sure of, you can say you are just going to visit one of the vendors in Mexico. I think that the Imigracion and aduana are in the same building so park your bike a block away and ask a guard with a machine gun to watch your helmet and bike, and walk up to the window......or get a translater and find out what the real problem is they are very pleasant at La Mesilla, as for huge stacks of paper the Guatemalan customs is run by conected computers and very efficient. You need..... to take some serious Spanish lessons, by the way we met at a Bragg Creek horizons breakfast, I think?
Do you still have your window hologram TVIP?
saludos Cal
I'll have to figure it out when I get there. Passport stamp and ride off is my plan A. Getting a translator is plan B.

I've got 7 weeks till I need to be home. At least a couple of weeks will be used for Spanish School. Although this trip is winding down, South America will happen in the near future so the skills will serve me well there.

Bragg Creek HUBB breakfast, that was probably Tim. I was sick that day and didn't make it. I need to get a bit more plugged into the local scene when I get back. It seems there are lots of us in Calgary and area

I don't have the TVIP with the window on it. I have the pink one and a couple photo copies of another. It will sort itself out, it always does.
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Old 02-07-2011, 05:11 PM   #68
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Oso - crazy day on 3 fronts it seems. Sounds like you were wise to pull a U-ey (is that how you spell that??) and get outta there...

Another 6 inches of frigging snow up here last night... F word x 10, but spent the last few days re-doing all of the farkle wiring on my bike. After adding things one by one it needed to be cleaned up and consolidated. New springs for front forks have shipped - maybe do those next weekend.

Hope you get out okay and don't have problems at the border. Nothing ventured, nothing gained eh!

Well, ride safe, d
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Old 02-07-2011, 06:36 PM   #69
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Great report !!!! Keep em coming !!! Pics,pics !!!


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Old 02-07-2011, 07:10 PM   #70
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Honduras stuff:

Fabiola.


A huge landslide had wiped out the road (Hwy 7W). A temp road was put in but isn't in very good shape.



Lots of surprises on/in the road today.



Ah, the town of Chicaman. If Chica means girl then the name of their town is girl man? So that's kinda like a ladyboy
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Old 02-07-2011, 08:29 PM   #71
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Airhawk

I just got this PM, thought it was pretty cool:

"Cory,
My name is Danielle Boenisch and I am with AIRHAWK Comfort Seating Systems. I recently read a comment posted by AdvRider user masukomi on a forum (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...php?p=15096245). He said that the front strap ripped out of the cover of your AIRHAWK. Will you call our Warranty Service Department at 800-851-3449 ext. 7391 or e-mail them at warranty@therohogroup.com? They will be able to help you determine your best options. Let me know if you have any questions.

Danielle"

It's not often that a company is pro-active with with issues. I wanted to give them a big public thumbs up for it
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Old 02-07-2011, 08:52 PM   #72
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Fabiola.
I'm pretty sure we could've figured out how to ship your stuff down there.....
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Old 02-08-2011, 03:22 AM   #73
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Fabiola.
Now you're just showing off!

Great ride report! I've been reading/following along for a week or so, adding this to my daily dose of vicarious living. Thanks for keeping up the daily updates!

Be safe...
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Old 02-09-2011, 04:30 PM   #74
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I left the hotel at 10:00am. I rode down the highway toward the border crossing of La Mesilla. As I rounded the corner I had been stopped at the day before due to the protest I was seriously annoyed to see that they were still there. The line was much smaller than yesterday and the truck blocking the road was different so it was apparent that the road had opened at some point since I was there last.

I asked a local what time the blockade would be removed and he said 5pm. FUCK. I was cursing myself for not getting up earlier and beating them down here.

I looked over the map and decided to try a crossing further south. It was only an hour and a half drive which would put me several hours ahead of sitting and waiting until 5pm.

I punched the crossing into the GPS and made a U-turn. As I rode back toward the city I noticed several small trails beside the road. Surely one of them would bypass the road block. I stopped on the side of the road to ponder and have a look at the map. A local walked over and as if he had read my mind he said, "Even if you get around this road block there are 10-12 more between here and the border." I thanked him for the info, started the bike and headed down the road toward the other crossing.

As I rode past a small restaurant I saw a couple R1200GSs in the parking lot. I thought I'd stop and give them a heads up in case they didn't know about the obstruction ahead. I parked the bike and as I walked in I was greeted by Carlos, Gilbert and their wives Doris and Esperanza. I had met the 2 Mexican couples at the Los Manos border between Nicaragua and Honduras a little over a week before.



They knew about the road block from the day before. A friend had called to warn them so they were up at 4:30am to beat the protestors but that hadn't been early enough. Instantly I didn't feel so bad about leaving the hotel at 10am.

I explained my customs TVIP issue with Carlos who spoke excellent english. He cringed when I told him my bike was here illegally. Not a good sign. Getting out of Guatemala maybe easy enough but Mexico may require the exit paperwork before they let me in there. This was going to be more difficult than I had hoped.

Carlos offered to help out with whatever he could if I wanted to wait with them until the road opened. I decided that having a local translator with lots of experience with TVIPs would be the best.

It was now 11am, we had 6hrs to kill until the border opened at 5pm. They had been at the coffee shop since 6:30am. Between naps on the sidewalk and restaurant floor, I entertained (or maybe bored) everyone with pics and videos of my trip so far.

Carlos and Doris sleeping in the parking lot.


Time went surprising quickly. At 3:30 we decided to go to a different restaurant for chicken. We ran into a local cop who said the blockade would likely last until 6:00 or 7pm. Err!



The goodluck Goat:


5pm, after our chicken dinner, we headed down the highway toward the border hoping the blockade was no longer up. As we crested the hill and saw the road was clear, there were thumbs-up from all 5 of us.

The next 70km can only be described as terrifying. With Carlos/Doris in the lead followed by Gilbert/Esperanza and me last, we weaved and raced down the road. The highway is twisty and winds through many towns along the way. There was fallen rock all over the road as well as debris from other road blocks which included rocks, logs and burnt tires (?!). None of this stopped the 2 couples from riding like crazy people.

I have never seen a fully loaded bike, 2 up being ridden like that, ever.

Gilbert's panniers were literally dragging through the corners. They were passing on blind corners, as they crested hills, on the shoulder and a couple times on the sidewalk. We blasted through towns where the speed limit was 40kph at over 110kph, past Guatemalan Police who didn't seem to care. On a couple of straights we were approaching 150kph. I, on cupped, worn out knobbies was extremely uncomfortable to say the least. I think that even on a crotch rocket I would have been uncomfortable riding with them. The only reason I kept up was they had to slow right down for the speed bumps and I was able to hit them at 80kph. Of course this is all happening at dusk with limited visibility. Oh, did I mention that the four of them are all in their 50s?!

I usually reach border crossing with some anxiety but I was glad to be stopped and off the bike this time. First thing out of my mouth when we stopped, "Are you fucking crazy?!" Carlos and Gil laughed hard, Doris and Esperanza agreed that they were crazy.

The soldier waved us into the Aduana office to stamp our bikes out. The moment of truth. Carlos and Gil slap down there Guatemalan TVIPs, the guy says they are good. Gil and Carlos head to the immigration office to get stamped out. The guy looks at me. I lay down all 4 (expired) photo copies of the original permit. He says no, the one he needs isn't there. He doesn't seem to notice they are stamped canceled with a date of December 28th, 2010. I say that's all they gave me on the way in. He swears under his breath and waves me away. REALLY? That's it? That was easy.

I make my way over to the immigration office where the others are surprised to see me so soon. Gil doesn't realize there is a soldier standing right behind him when he says in Spanish to Carlos "Cory's good? They didn't figure out his bike was here illegally?" The soldier steps in and says what was that about an illegal bike? Oh, err, nothing sir. He storms away.

I know when the soldier tells the customs official what heard and he types my VIN in the computer he'll realize something is in fact wrong, then I'm screwed.

I'm nervously waiting to get my stamp so I can get the bike across the line into Mexico which is literally 80ft from where it's parked. The immigration officer is the slowest mofo on the planet. He's half watching football highlights on the TV, greeting everyone who walks in the office with a big hand shake and asks how they are doing. I sweating and pacing. Doris comes in and tells me my bike is leaking gas. WTF. I go out, realize I parked on too much of a slope and the vent from my aux tank is leaking fuel. I go to move the bike (parked right in front of the Customs office) and the soldier points to the office and say "Big problem with moto", motioning my to go to the window. I pause then say, "Uno momento, yo no tengo passport.." pointing at the other office. I dash to back to the immigration office. What do I now?

After 5mins my passport is stamped, I'm clear. I duck out the side door of the office looking to see where the soldier is. He is distracted about 50ft away at the gate. I do my best Mission Impossible impression sneaking as close to the bike as I can. His back is turned so with key in hand I run over the to bike, jump on. Before get it started the Customs guy sees me and yells which gets the attention of the guard who stops what he's doing and starts running toward me but it's too late. The bike and I cross the border into Mexico.

I don't really know what the border relations are between these two countries. If there had been soldiers on the Mexican side maybe they would have stopped me and sent me back. As it turns out, there is no Immigration or Aduana right at the border on the Mexican side and more importantly, no soldiers or police. The offices are 4km down the road at Ciudad Cuauhemoc. I had to stop 100meters from the Guatemala border for fumigation. No one followed. I was (safe?) in Mexico.

I wait for the others, who were arguing with the slow ass immigration officer about something. In a few minutes they arrived at the fumigation station. We made our way to Cuauhemoc and get officially stamped into Mexico.

I had planned on heading to San Cristobal for a couple weeks. As it turns out that's were the others were from. It was 8pm, if it were me riding alone, I would have grabbed the first hotel I came across but since they were only 200km from home they were going to keep riding. They asked if I was going to follow. I said based on the trip to the border I'm not sure that I could keep up! They all laughed but assured me they were going that fast to make the border before dark. Since it was now night and there are many animals on the road so they will be riding slowly.

As I followed them into the darkness, it became apparent that their idea of slow and mine are not even close to the same. 120kph, in the dark, topes, police and animals everywhere. Yikes. We climbed higher and higher in the mountains. As we climbed the temperature dropped steadily. My outside-air-temp gauge flirted with sub-zero several times over a 30min period before climbing to a balmy 8C.

We rode into San Cristobal just after 10pm and found a coffee shop. After a hot chocolate, I thanked everyone for their help and asked if they knew of a decent hotel close. Carlos and Doris said they wouldn't help me with that and insisted I stay with them at their house. Normally I would have declined as I'm usually uncomfortable around people I don't really know, especially in their homes. For some reason it felt totally natural and normal so I accepted their invite.

The coffee shop in San Cristobal.


All smiles after making it across the border.


More new road friends.

Side note, once I arrived at the house, their riding style made more sense. The walls of Carlos's office are covered with pictures of him racing with his track bike. I don't feel quite as bad about getting my ass handed to me by guys in their 50's riding 2-up with 3 piece luggage.

Tearing their bike apart in an attempt to find the house keys. Never did find them, ended up breaking in with a machete.
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Old 02-09-2011, 04:41 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oso Blanco View Post
I do my best Mission Impossible impression sneaking as close to the bike as I can....... I was (safe?) in Mexico.


You need some Camouflage riding gear!




Awesome.







Welcome to Mexico.
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