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Old 01-25-2011, 04:47 PM   #16
fxstbiluigi
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: The Dry side of Oregon
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.

BTW, I only wore out 7 blades. I love my sawzall!!!!!![/QUOTE]7 blades to make 3 pieces out of the entire plane is doin really good.......
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Old 01-25-2011, 05:03 PM   #17
HutchCab
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Location: Big beautiful WY
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Cool portaband setup

Check out this set up to convert your port-a-band saw to a vertical band saw...

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=748205

I have a friend who has one with the foot switch and it works great.

No connection to this company, just had my eye on this for a while.
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Old 01-25-2011, 05:19 PM   #18
DORION
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Location: Toronto / Magnetawan Ontario CANADA
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sawzalled

They should put sawzalled in the dictionary ....
Great tool that does what its called.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jamming View Post
really??? Tell that to the cessna 180 i cut up with one. A guy ground looped one and i bought it from the insurance company. Parted out what i could and sawzalled (is that a word?) the rest of it to take to the scrap metal place. Made some money on that deal .

Btw, i only wore out 7 blades. I love my sawzall!!!!!!
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Old 02-02-2011, 03:18 PM   #19
lovias
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Skill saw?

Heck just use an old Skill type saw with a metal cutting blade.
Better yet use a good hack saw and build up your energy level.
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Old 02-02-2011, 03:29 PM   #20
DCopp
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How many TPI is best for cutting motorcycle frames up with a sawzall? 18 or 24?
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Old 02-02-2011, 03:40 PM   #21
kobudo28
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Location: New Hampster. Live, Freeze and Ride.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fxstbiluigi View Post
A sawzall really is not suitable for metal cuting. Cuting metal with your mitre saw will ruin it ( abrasive dust, from the blade, the load on the motor) . I really don't think much of chop saws. Do you have a 4-1/2 grinder? If not they are relativly inexpensive and can be equiped with a 6" or so abrasive blade. If you chose this option don't force the tool let it do the cuting and be aware that it can 'kik back' and leave you with a really nasty cut.
For aluminum the best method is a cross cut blade with carbide teeth and use parrifin for a lube.

Really? I use a sawzall all the time to cut metal when I need to rough something out or just cut it up, no problem. I have an air powered cut off wheel that I also use with good success. I have also used a jig saw to cut metal sheet and angle without a problem. Go slow, use a good lube.

Really? We have a Makita chop saw for cutting tubing and such in our shop, mosty stainless steel. It has been there longer than I have and I have been with our company for 18 years. No problems with it.

We also cut steel of all types and shapes on a verticle band saw (dry) or one of three horizontal band saws (wet) when we need a more accurate cut before putting the material in a lathe or mill.
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Old 02-02-2011, 03:48 PM   #22
kobudo28
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If I ran a fab shop I'd like to try one of these.

http://www.dakecorp.com/products-group-cold-saws.asp
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Old 02-03-2011, 12:20 PM   #23
DCopp
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nevermind, I bought a heavy-metal Bosch blade today and it rocked the house! fast cuts and no bending at all...I love cutting things up.
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Old 02-03-2011, 12:35 PM   #24
Dream Rider
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metal saw

Quote:
Originally Posted by josjor View Post
When I first got into metal working about 10 years ago, I bought a $69 dollar cheapie metal chop saw at Menard's, figuring that if this new hobby stuck with me, I'd buy a better one someday.

About a million cuts later, that $69.00 cheapie is still running strong. Look around for a sale. That $69 will seem cheap compared to replacing a wood miter saw once you've trashed it trying to cut metal.
good point: at a minimum use a metal cutting blade. Use a carbide tipped blade and you might find a piece of carbide in your chest or forehead. Bad ju-ju. Harbor freight has some cheap saws that will work fine.
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