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Old 03-20-2011, 08:20 PM   #76
YetiGS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Griz View Post
Agreed. How are they working for you Yeti?
Couple hundred miles or so. Nothing really to report. I've been out of town a lot for work so not much

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Old 03-20-2011, 08:37 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YetiGS View Post
Couple hundred miles or so. Nothing really to report. I've been out of town a lot for work so not much

S'all good. Keep us posted though!
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Old 03-24-2011, 10:09 PM   #78
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I'm wondering how hard it will be to change a flat on the trail.
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Old 03-25-2011, 09:35 AM   #79
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Originally Posted by YamWOW! View Post
I'm wondering how hard it will be to change a flat on the trail.
That's why I've put a tubless system in my rear wheel. Hopefully I'd only have to plug it to keep going.


I know that when I got a flat in my rear (nail) with my K60 it was a bitch and a half to fix on the trail. Mostly because it was so hard to break the bead. We tried every trick in the book (sidestand, rocks, etc.) with no luck. Then one of the guys remembered he had just bought a Bead BrakR. Imagine six guys staring at the instructions trying to figure out how the hell to make that thing work! We finally did figure it out and it worked great.
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Old 03-25-2011, 10:05 AM   #80
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I know that when I got a flat in my rear (nail) with my K60 it was a bitch and a half to fix on the trail. Mostly because it was so hard to break the bead. We tried every trick in the book (sidestand, rocks, etc.) with no luck. Then one of the guys remembered he had just bought a Bead BrakR. Imagine six guys staring at the instructions trying to figure out how the hell to make that thing work! We finally did figure it out and it worked great.
Man alive!

I've changed 2 rear K60's and it's been incredibly laborious to break the bead. I did it once using the side-stand, and most recently with weights down in my basement.

I'll have to look into this bead breakR. Thanks.

God Bless,
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Old 03-25-2011, 10:07 AM   #81
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Definitely, the BeadBreakr is a must for easy tire changes. It's expensive, but if you've already invested in compatible tire irons (Aerostich Titanium Tar Arns or the Best Rest tire irons) then the rest of the kit is only $140.
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Old 03-25-2011, 11:39 AM   #82
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[QUOTE=YetiGS;15505303]That's why I've put a tubless system in my rear wheel. Hopefully I'd only have to plug it to keep going.

Do tell!
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Old 03-25-2011, 08:45 PM   #83
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[QUOTE=YamWOW!;15506239]
Quote:
Originally Posted by YetiGS View Post
That's why I've put a tubless system in my rear wheel. Hopefully I'd only have to plug it to keep going.

Do tell!
When I sent my wheel to Woody's Wheel Works, I had him install his tubeless system for me. Works great!
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Old 03-27-2011, 08:30 AM   #84
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Hey guys, Just put an order in for a set of Big Blocks. $200 for the set not including tax. Trying to keep my money in the state and support the locals. Cheaper than the K60's cost when I put them on. Think I can get another 1000 miles on the K60's though- giving me around 9500 miles on them. Hoping to get 6000 out of the big blocks for the $100 in savings Hard to tell but cannot sit around waiting for the new K60's ( they really screwed to pooch on that one).

Hoping the Big block holds the front end a little better in the muddy clay after seeing them first hand the tire look pretty sound. Keep you posted when I strap them on in a few weeks.

PS- I have heard of the use of a ratchet strap being used around the wheel to break the bead free. have not try it yet because (Knock on wood) no flats yet. Running RideOnIt in the tubes. Not Slime. But a very big advocate for the ratchet straps as back country must carry gear.
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Old 03-28-2011, 07:52 AM   #85
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Tires have 1120 miles on them, over half of them pavement. Looks like I will get at least 3k miles out of them. They worked great in Death Valley last weekend. I pushed them pretty hard on the twisty's, gripped real good. Did not air down for the dirt, with the super stiff side walls, it wouldn't matter? JG
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Old 03-28-2011, 11:12 AM   #86
AdvWolf
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Tires have 1120 miles on them, over half of them pavement. Looks like I will get at least 3k miles out of them. They worked great in Death Valley last weekend. I pushed them pretty hard on the twisty's, gripped real good. Did not air down for the dirt, with the super stiff side walls, it wouldn't matter? JG

can you upload some picks??? I was hoping to get a little more out of them. I commute the bike about 600 miles a week. Off road on the weekends. they should last me to May if I luck.
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Old 03-28-2011, 12:58 PM   #87
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How are they in the dirt.

The TKCs are surprisingly good.

I figure I'll air them to 15lbs or so for off road.
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Old 03-28-2011, 03:33 PM   #88
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I would not do that if you are going to ride in any rocky terrain. It is a guaranteed rim dinger for the front. I bent my at 22psi and never go below 25 now. Some people believe that running low pressures on these heavy bikes is not that much help and I tend to agree. If I get a little give in the tire by applying palm pressure on it, that is good enough for me.
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:12 PM   #89
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Originally Posted by itsatdm View Post
I would not do that if you are going to ride in any rocky terrain. It is a guaranteed rim dinger for the front. I bent my at 22psi and never go below 25 now. Some people believe that running low pressures on these heavy bikes is not that much help and I tend to agree. If I get a little give in the tire by applying palm pressure on it, that is good enough for me.
Agree. 15 psi is great for a small bike. Riding a 500# bike on the same tires is asking for trouble.
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Old 03-29-2011, 07:27 AM   #90
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Tire Pressure

When i had the tires put on, I put palm pressure on the unmounted rear, it felt like it had 25psi in it. Super stiff, almost like a run flat tire. This is why I won't air-down. I wonder how far I could ride with a flat before the bead broke loose?
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