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Old 01-20-2011, 03:05 PM   #16
supershaft
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I am about this.

Since you asked first, you answer first. Are you?

Watch out around here. From what I can tell, people might start expecting pictures that show that your bikes have been ridden since those photos of your bikes were taken years ago just after you had them built. They are just like the original photo in this thread. I guarantee you that that bike had not been ridden before that photo was taken. If it had been ridden much at all, we would all see an oily mess all over that tranny and who knows were else.

Surely you have ridden your bike enough by now to know that at the very least it is something to watch out for? I know I have!
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Old 01-20-2011, 03:15 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nella View Post
I rigged a catch tank with a breather on mine. I'm going to modify it a bit more when I get around to it. I've ridden it hard and checked and only have a fine mist of oil in it.

Great news nella! Keep an eye on it for a while. Thanks for fessin up to the mist. I hardly know a catch tank that was ever made that didn't need modifying in some way or another in order to keep the oil where it is suppose to be.

I am REALLY not trying to be a smart ass but most all the crank breather photos I see are like yours in that they have just been installed and don't have enough miles on them to see how they work.

I think I would go for a larger one so I wouldn't have to be emptying it as often.

Good luck and I hope you now know why I advise people to watch them. They very well can oil your tire! Especially at high speeds!
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Old 01-20-2011, 04:51 PM   #18
Jon-Lars
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That's a nice setup, Scott. Of course, a breather tank is a better solution to the crankcase ventilation problem, than just a filter. Yours looks very sanitary.

My gold bike doesn't get ridden enough, that's true. It is just one in a garage-full of rides. When I use it, I don't have an oiling problem.
Maybe I can get some fresh photos of it this spring, showing the latest changes. I posted these because they were relevant to the topic.
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Old 01-20-2011, 05:53 PM   #19
CraigC
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This is a picture of a Luftmeister block off plate that was on eBay:


A friend of mine had a couple of these made at a machine shop out of 3/16" aluminum to use as a starting point for a block off plate:
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Old 01-20-2011, 07:10 PM   #20
DaveBall
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My point was partially the air filters/velocity stacks. Not a good thing in bad weather. But if you only ride it in good weather, then those would be fine to a point. They really don't stop much in the way of dirt/dust/water from getting into the carbs.

As to the blocking off and breather setup. The setup setup shown is a somewhat elegant way of cleaning up the look, but I do not see any other advantage to it. Looks pretty, but I seriously doubt it will make the crankcase breath any better. Plus you do run the risk of any oil coming out to end up on your rear tire. If you engine does not push any oil out, then it is not an issue.

I think the whole thing is more a styling issue than anything else. Make it look like you want it to look and not the way others think it should look.
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Old 01-20-2011, 08:08 PM   #21
supershaft
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I think properly maintained K+N's filter quite a bit better than the stock paper filters when comparing what ends up in the square airboxes and stuck to the insides of the airbox snorkels.

I think there are real advantages to running your crank vent to a catch tank or out the back. First off, if reved, ALL airheads let quite a bit of oil out the breather even when in the best of condition. With that in mind, running your vent out will keep your carbs quite a bit cleaner and free of goop. The 77 and earlier models goop up the right carb and cylinder and the 79 and later models goop up the left carb and cylinder although they are SUPPOSE to equally goop up both but they don't since inside the airbox the right vent hose has a higher rise to the velocity stack than the left one so all the oil goes to the left carb. 78 models are suppose to equally goop both carbs but I wonder if they too favor one side?

Then there is the advantage of keeping all that oil out of your combustion process! More power! Less carbon! I go to great lengths to run a tight combustion chamber with well seated rings, good pistons, good,straight bores and tight guides. I will be damned if I go to all that trouble and then knowingly throw oil back in there via the crank breather!

It has NOTHING to do with looks as far as I am concerned.
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Old 01-20-2011, 09:33 PM   #22
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Good Thoughts

This is a good conversation- I'm glad to have so many valuable contributions on the original issue regarding the blocking plate, as well as the breather problem, from some folks I've communicated with on a variety of topics; this truly is a wonderful forum.

I've had this bike for 13 years and ridden it with the current crankcase/air filter setup for the last 7. it does "mist" or vent oil through the filter and require regular cleaning and maintenance, which is part of the reason I'm looking for a cleaner alternative both aesthetically and functionally to the porch screen and filter setup currently in use. I know Jon-Lars's red bike and a number of others I've seen have canisters or vents as a solution. I have had help fabricating some parts in the past but never on my own, so I appreciate the input on specifics from Craig and others.

I do tend to ride the bike hard, and have had success with the K/N pod breathing, but would prefer to contain the oil as best as possible. AND clean less, so always open to suggestions. The bike is in pieces right now as I attempt to replace the rear main seal/O-ring and clean up the oil under the clutch, etc...

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Old 01-20-2011, 09:45 PM   #23
squish
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I've had a number of higher mileage more modernish singles that I've done
a few different crankcase breather treatments to,
One was a hose leading up from the port on case to a T fitting with one end to a duckbill one way valve and the other to a K&N

Another was just a straight shot up out of the case port and into a section of hose about nine inches long ending in the mini K&N

Another was a just a long hose exiting out the back of the bike.

Another was the same long hose but with a mini K&N on the end.

And here's what I've found

All these bikes had loose top ends and burned a bit of oil and had a far amount of blowby.

None of them leaked enough mist to worry about,
The one with the filters under me, stunk.
The long hose ones never even showed oil running up the vertical section of hose, let alone along the flat or out the back.

I've not done a crankcase breather mod to any of my airheads,
if I did do some thing it would be the T style fitting so the vapor could head down and get drained out.
But I'd put the filter as far away from my nose as i could get it.

**Edit Crankcase breather added to the 1986 R80**
So after getting the wife's bike back on the road after her two year baby sabbatical. I noticed some things not squared away inside the airbox.
I squared them away and since the crankcase to airbox breather line was shot. I figured I'd try the old hose out the back of the bike.
Her bike has about 65k miles and a fair bit of carbon build up. it's loose and it burns a little oil. Riding behind her is like riding behind a two stroke.

With the new set up. Straight hose up to a K&N crankcase filter (the only thing K&N makes that's worth buying).
Currently I'm not using a T drain, but it's set up to add that If I feel that it's getting enough oil/water in the line to worry about.

The hose runs out of the starter motor cover (through one of the Shed holes) and up over the airbox, with the filter tucked up between the subframe and the outside of the rear fender.
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squish screwed with this post 09-14-2011 at 08:59 PM Reason: **Edit Crankcase breather added to the 1986 R80**
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Old 01-21-2011, 08:41 AM   #24
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Old 01-21-2011, 09:24 AM   #25
supershaft
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It sure is nice to see some pictures of K+N filters being used correctly on this thread. Black with oil and dirt. Most people clean them too much and oil them too little!
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Old 01-21-2011, 01:26 PM   #26
Houseoffubar
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+1 for the use of a catch can before oil gets to the filter, this prevents a lot of the mess.
I have not looked closely yet, to see what to use for a drain back to the crankcase, but having a return to the case, so regular emptying of the catch can is important,
Also a longish hose, with, or without a filter that goes up, either to under the tank, or out the rear of the bike will almost completely eliminate the mess.

Last item, if you want to bend your own sheet for a block off plate. heat it to 400 degrees F them let it cool. This will anneal the metal making it very easy to bend, and it will not crack if bent tightly.
Either put it in an oven, or draw all over it with a BLACK Sharpy pen, then heat with a torch. The black Sharpy will disappear at almost exactly 400F. The aluminum when cool is now soft like butta
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Old 01-21-2011, 01:56 PM   #27
supershaft
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I run a stock square airbox minus the airpump crap. 3/8th's auto fuel line fits perfectly into the rubber socket meant for the stock breather system. I run that to a firewall coupler that I have drilled out for maximum ID in place of the water drain flap. On the other side, I run some more 3/8th's fuel line up my subframe and around and down my rear fender. The hose has to be about five inches past the end of the fender or oil will wick back on the bike at speed. I have an adell clamp on my license bracket to hold it in place. I don't run any kind of filter on the end of it. The crank breather uses a reed valve and I figure that what little air might go back up that hose is getting filtered pretty well by bouncing along that long and oily path to the engine. I have about 130,000 miles with the setup. No problems so far.

That setup with a properly modified K+N filter keeps my airbox AND snorkels absolutely spotless. No oil film. No dust. No dirt.

supershaft screwed with this post 01-21-2011 at 02:02 PM
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Old 01-21-2011, 02:15 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Houseoffubar View Post
+1 for the use of a catch can before oil gets to the filter, this prevents a lot of the mess.
I have not looked closely yet, to see what to use for a drain back to the crankcase, but having a return to the case, so regular emptying of the catch can is important,
Also a longish hose, with, or without a filter that goes up, either to under the tank, or out the rear of the bike will almost completely eliminate the mess.

Last item, if you want to bend your own sheet for a block off plate. heat it to 400 degrees F them let it cool. This will anneal the metal making it very easy to bend, and it will not crack if bent tightly.
Either put it in an oven, or draw all over it with a BLACK Sharpy pen, then heat with a torch. The black Sharpy will disappear at almost exactly 400F. The aluminum when cool is now soft like butta
Annealing temp is about 700-800 deg.f.
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Old 01-21-2011, 07:04 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robtg View Post
Annealing temp is about 700-800 deg.f.
There is no single annealing temperature for a material.
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Old 01-21-2011, 09:00 PM   #30
BicyclebBob
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I like this guys idea, but he doesn't seem to have any outlet for his breather?
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