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Old 01-21-2011, 09:01 PM   #31
BicyclebBob
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Old 01-21-2011, 09:08 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by crazydrummerdude View Post
There is no single annealing temperature for a material.

Would you care to explain?
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Old 01-21-2011, 09:16 PM   #33
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Oh my, I never expected this to go on this long. I've always been satisfied with the stock arrangement (low expectations ).

So, humor this ignorant poster, please.

Has anyone drilled and brazed a small spigot onto the exhaust somewhere and run the breather hose to it?

That would avoid sending the crankcase effluence through the carbs and also avoid long hoses, filters, etc. spewing oily mist all over the bike, etc. Frankly, those mini-filters (and resulting misty mess) coming out the cover plate just don't look very elegant.

Would it result in a smokey exhaust? I have no idea. That's why I ask. Seems like it might be a way to avoid the downsides of the two most common solutions (carbs or hoses/filters).

Fact based statements (or WAGs...or assessments of my sanity) welcomed.
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Old 01-21-2011, 09:21 PM   #34
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nicely done..

bicycle bob; very nice.. very nice..
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Old 01-21-2011, 09:27 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by robtg View Post
Would you care to explain?
Theoretically, it could be many things. If you have limited resources, I don't see the need to shoot for a particular temperature; anything that allows recrystallization and controlled cooling.

Not to be confused with heat treating, though.
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Old 01-21-2011, 09:45 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishkens View Post
Oh my, I never expected this to go on this long. I've always been satisfied with the stock arrangement (low expectations ).

So, humor this ignorant poster, please.

Has anyone drilled and brazed a small spigot onto the exhaust somewhere and run the breather hose to it?

That would avoid sending the crankcase effluence through the carbs and also avoid long hoses, filters, etc. spewing oily mist all over the bike, etc. Frankly, those mini-filters (and resulting misty mess) coming out the cover plate just don't look very elegant.

Would it result in a smokey exhaust? I have no idea. That's why I ask. Seems like it might be a way to avoid the downsides of the two most common solutions (carbs or hoses/filters).

Fact based statements (or WAGs...or assessments of my sanity) welcomed.
Just do it the way Triumph did, Run a hose out along the rear fender and spray down vehicle behind you with your unwanted oil vapors!

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Old 01-21-2011, 09:54 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by crazydrummerdude View Post
Theoretically, it could be many things. If you have limited resources, I don't see the need to shoot for a particular temperature; anything that allows recrystallization and controlled cooling.

Not to be confused with heat treating, though.

Have you ever annealed any aluminum and actually checked the temp?
You may want to google "aluminum annealing temperature".
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Old 01-21-2011, 11:20 PM   #38
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For annealing aluminum I always just mark the metal with a sharpie pen then heat with a propane torch until the sharpie mark disappears...Of course you could just use some 5052 marine aluminum that gets stronger when you bend it.
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Old 01-22-2011, 12:17 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by robtg View Post
Have you ever annealed any aluminum and actually checked the temp?
You may want to google "aluminum annealing temperature".
No. I think the point my PUI self was trying to get at was; I am under the impression that different alloys have different "annealing temperatures," and that the process isn't just a flash of heat. It's a controlled process that generally takes place over hours/days and I don't remember anyone saying what alloy it is. For a given alloy, though, what is a better method for a home shop than the torch?

For some reason, I only locked onto the "700" part of your response, but if you have a good resource that lists the "aluminum annealing temperature," I'm always willing to learn. I have access to 3 annealing ovens where I work, but I've never been the one using them..
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Old 01-22-2011, 01:54 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
I have set up more than a couple of crankcase breather setups and the setups I see above would cause a potentially dangerous oily mess in my experience. Those setups will very quickly have oil dripping all over the bike including your tires! At least if you rev them and ride them hard!
+1

Same experience here
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Old 01-22-2011, 11:59 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by crazydrummerdude View Post
No. I think the point my PUI self was trying to get at was; I am under the impression that different alloys have different "annealing temperatures," and that the process isn't just a flash of heat. It's a controlled process that generally takes place over hours/days and I don't remember anyone saying what alloy it is. For a given alloy, though, what is a better method for a home shop than the torch?

For some reason, I only locked onto the "700" part of your response, but if you have a good resource that lists the "aluminum annealing temperature," I'm always willing to learn. I have access to 3 annealing ovens where I work, but I've never been the one using them..
CCD, sometimes I wonder if you have an aversion to good, experienced advise?

The number "400" stuck out to me. That IS one number, not one hundred of them! I suspect that if 400 degrees did it the exhaust side of our heads would start to droop after a while.
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Old 01-22-2011, 12:27 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by crazydrummerdude View Post
No. I think the point my PUI self was trying to get at was; I am under the impression that different alloys have different "annealing temperatures," and that the process isn't just a flash of heat. It's a controlled process that generally takes place over hours/days and I don't remember anyone saying what alloy it is. For a given alloy, though, what is a better method for a home shop than the torch?

For some reason, I only locked onto the "700" part of your response, but if you have a good resource that lists the "aluminum annealing temperature," I'm always willing to learn. I have access to 3 annealing ovens where I work, but I've never been the one using them..
Read this..... http://www.tinmantech.com/html/alumi..._continued.php
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Old 01-22-2011, 02:48 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
CCD, sometimes I wonder if you have an aversion to good, experienced advise?
Quote:
Originally Posted by crazydrummerdude View Post
I'm always willing to learn.
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Old 01-22-2011, 05:46 PM   #44
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Always willing to learn? Eventually maybe? Like I have said to CDD before, that IS better than some! This is a perfect example at what I am getting at. He accuses robtg of something someone else is doing AND that someone else isn't making near as much sense as robtg while he is doing it!

All is well that ends well but why go through that?
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Old 02-08-2011, 02:03 PM   #45
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....so what's the final verdict here? Sounds like the long Triumph-style hose out the back fender that supershaft describes is the best and simplest aternative.

I was F'n arouund with my stock airbox last night (1981 flat filter). It has a Uni filter. After only ,200 clicks I was surprised by the oil inside. Granted the Uni may be part to fault, and I think it could make a better seal, as I noticed oil on the rear of the tranny that had drained out the reed.

So, I'm using the breather plumbing and rigging it to exit at the reed valve hole at the back of the air box and going to run a hose as described, up and out the back of the tail section.

Did this on my R100GS and never had a prob...
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