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Old 02-09-2011, 10:13 AM   #61
The Raven
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Good to know about the breather valve, I know Tom used Solos Scotchbrite pad Idea, but I may go the path of others and add a line out the back. Seems the best way to go and not make a mess.
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Old 02-09-2011, 10:28 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand View Post
cmon guys we all know I'm the real attention whore around here.
Lurk more.






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Hey CDD, I think the best way to shut up a no-it-all it to shut off his outlet of giving info...just ignore list him.
I ignore no one!

(I'm a glutton for punishment.)

...

Ok, back to the topic at hand. Doing a quick search for annealing on advrider yields the following:

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Originally Posted by GreaseMonkey View Post
What grade of aluminum, and perhaps more importantly what are you trying to accomplish?

To truly anneal AL is somewhat complex, take 7075 for example:

The temperature for annealing AL 7075 alloy is 775 F, holding at temperature for 3 hours. Controlled cooling at 50 F per hour should then be used down to 500 F from which it can then be air cooled.


Now if what you are wanting to do is simply form some AL without cracks, you can try heating it to 250F while working it which is something your MAPP torch can do but first if you want to talk about what you're working on perhaps someone can give you a better answer.
Wow. Helpful advice.. and pretty consistent with what I assumed.

Is that so hard to explain? I asked in this thread what a good alternative to this for the home shop tinkerer is.. and got nothing in response.

I now know how my dad would feel after asking me "What did you learn today?" in high school, when I would reply "Nothing." It's like pulling teeth.
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Old 02-10-2011, 04:26 PM   #63
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I started this by warning against making too sharp a bend in your aluminum sheet or plate.

This was based on my background of years of working at the Reynolds aluminum reduction plant at Longview, Wa, then at the cable extrusion plant; as well as having a dad who supervised the casting operation for thirty years; in addition my fabrication experience.


Here is some aluminum info from a data book:













Jon-Lars screwed with this post 02-10-2011 at 04:44 PM
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Old 02-11-2011, 12:28 PM   #64
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Modify one of these for a catch tank,

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Old 02-11-2011, 12:33 PM   #65
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Modify one of these for a catch tank,

that would be a real shame.
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Old 02-11-2011, 01:03 PM   #66
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Old 02-11-2011, 01:12 PM   #67
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that would be a real shame.



I've seen and used Sigg bottles for catch tanks on cafe and race bikes many times.
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Old 02-11-2011, 01:42 PM   #68
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I've seen and used Sigg bottles for catch tanks on cafe and race bikes many times.
I didn't know you were serious....All kidding aside; you actually install catch tanks? I always thought the two methods were to run a drip tube, or a carb drip.

Learn something everyday....if so, then it would make a great catch tank
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Old 02-11-2011, 02:09 PM   #69
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I didn't know you were serious....All kidding aside; you actually install catch tanks? I always thought the two methods were to run a drip tube, or a carb drip.

Learn something everyday....if so, then it would make a great catch tank
Almost every racing organization requires catch tanks. Don't want oil or gas vent lines dripping onto the track.

Foster's Beer cans were popular a few years back
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Old 02-11-2011, 02:17 PM   #70
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Almost every racing organization requires catch tanks. Don't want oil or gas vent lines dripping onto the track.

Foster's Beer cans were popular a few years back
That makes sense. mmmmm Fosters...I like Fosters
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Old 02-11-2011, 02:38 PM   #71
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First one I saw was a small fuel bottle or beer can strapped to the crossbar at the lower rear of the frame (R100RS).
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Old 02-11-2011, 02:41 PM   #72
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Does the oil dripping into the carbs really affect performance that much?

The reason I ask is because I had no sludge or oil in the lines/carb at all this past fall when I ripped the bike apart.
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Old 02-11-2011, 03:17 PM   #73
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Modify one of these for a catch tank,

Hey, that could be sweet! If you sanded, and polished it, or just painted over the silly logo, it looks like it would work pretty good!

Damn, pretty soon you'll have a whole merchandise catalog! I like it!
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Old 02-11-2011, 03:53 PM   #74
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First one I saw was a small fuel bottle or beer can strapped to the crossbar at the lower rear of the frame (R100RS).
Like this? (Taken at the 2007 Falling Leaf rally.)

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Old 02-11-2011, 05:54 PM   #75
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Does the oil dripping into the carbs really affect performance that much?

The reason I ask is because I had no sludge or oil in the lines/carb at all this past fall when I ripped the bike apart.
Ding, ding, ding! I just don't quite understand the problem that we're trying to solve. Granted, removing the airbox creates the problem and there are reasons to do that but my head just isn't in a place where I'd want to remove the airbox. Maybe when I get a BMW sculpture or race bike, but for now I just like riding a reliable, long distance motorcycle and the best solution for that seems to include an airbox.

That's all. I don't want to argue. But I'd love to hear answers to Raven's query in case a touring GS can be improved by routing crankcase exhaust elsewhere.
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