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Old 02-11-2011, 06:09 PM   #76
StephenB
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I am running a series of rubber lines of different diameters from the breather valve through the airfilter housing, out through the airfilter housing drain plug, between kickstarter and tranny housing down to just above the left centerstand bolt (oils it nicely).




With the oil level consistently at about half or less, I hardly ever see any oil mist on the left centerstand foot.
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Old 02-11-2011, 06:23 PM   #77
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Originally Posted by fishkens View Post
Ding, ding, ding! I just don't quite understand the problem that we're trying to solve. Granted, removing the airbox creates the problem and there are reasons to do that but my head just isn't in a place where I'd want to remove the airbox. Maybe when I get a BMW sculpture or race bike, but for now I just like riding a reliable, long distance motorcycle and the best solution for that seems to include an airbox.

That's all. I don't want to argue. But I'd love to hear answers to Raven's query in case a touring GS can be improved by routing crankcase exhaust elsewhere.
Thanks for saying that. Twas due.
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Old 02-11-2011, 08:56 PM   #78
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I am running a series of rubber lines of different diameters from the breather valve through the airfilter housing, out through the airfilter housing drain plug, between kickstarter and tranny housing down to just above the left centerstand bolt (oils it nicely).
But why? What was wrong with the stock arrangement? If nothing is being spit on the centerstand with oil at the proper level then how does it hurt the running of the bike?

I really needs to know. Thanks.

p.s. nice gear change peg.
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Old 02-11-2011, 09:43 PM   #79
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The problem we are trying to solve? Have you ever noticed how a lot of airheads have one carb/snorkel hose clamp on with the clamp screw on top of the snorkel instead of the bottom as they come from the factory because they look better that way? It is because less oil leaks out of the carb/snorkel junction that way. That is the problem we are trying to solve. It's the right carb up to '77 and the left carb after '78.
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Old 02-11-2011, 10:04 PM   #80
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The problem we are trying to solve? Have you ever noticed how a lot of airheads have one carb/snorkel hose clamp on with the clamp screw on top of the snorkel instead of the bottom as they come from the factory because they look better that way? It is because less oil leaks out of the carb/snorkel junction that way. That is the problem we are trying to solve. It's the right carb up to '77 and the left carb after '78.
Of course. Both clamps on my bike ('88, crank vents into both sides) have the screw at the top to avoid a bit of oil leaking (not that I ever noticed much at all anyway). But they came from the factory oriented to the bottom of the snorkel tube.

So, just what's the problem? The crank vents out a hose out the back of the bike? Into a catch tank? Or into the carbs?

I've never had a problem with the stock arrangement. Just what IS the problem??? And how have all these conglomerations solved it?

Will anyone on this freakin' list answer Raven's fundamental question?
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Old 02-11-2011, 10:06 PM   #81
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Will anyone on this freakin' list answer Raven's fundamental question?
This is the thread of questions.. not answers.
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Old 02-11-2011, 10:07 PM   #82
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This is the thread of questions.. not answers.
Why's that?

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Old 02-11-2011, 11:10 PM   #83
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Your '88 and all '79 and on oil the left carb. Yes the system is SUPPOSE to evenly distribute the oil to both sides but in fact it does not. The reason is that the tube to the right snorkel feed rises about 12 or so mm higher than the left on its path into the snorkel. That is all it takes. Most all the oil goes to the left carb.

The problem is that the oil gums up and carbons the left or right carb, and even that side's intake valve and to some really unknown extent reduces power and increases carbon buildup in that cylinder. It is a fact that the more oil you keep out of their the more efficient you will be.

I would rather oil my centerstand bolt than my carb. There is the issue. How much? I suspect SB hasn't that many miles since he has done that mod. The goo will add up soon enough.
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Old 02-12-2011, 04:54 AM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishkens View Post
But why? What was wrong with the stock arrangement? If nothing is being spit on the centerstand with oil at the proper level then how does it hurt the running of the bike?

I really needs to know. Thanks.

p.s. nice gear change peg.
My solution is a remnant from the time I had cylinder ovality and taper out of spec condition and was blowing by the pistons into the crankcase, increasing crankcase pressure which resulted in ... oil literally pi$$ing out the breather valve with a little puddle in the airfilter housing.

Don't know what other people's reason are.

I could remove it by now but I am too lazy!
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Old 02-12-2011, 05:01 AM   #85
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Originally Posted by fishkens View Post
But I'd love to hear answers to Raven's query in case a touring GS can be improved by routing crankcase exhaust elsewhere.
Re-routing per se doesn't improve anything. It's a breather not a performance enhancer.

However, changing the engine's breathing arrangement with a less restrictive air intake is considered a tuning method and together with other measure can improve power output. There are enough threads for tuning airheads and I am sure, Adam read them all!

What was the question again?
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Stephen Bottcher
Ontario, Canada

'72 R75/5 The Blues

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Old 02-12-2011, 05:10 AM   #86
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Originally Posted by supershaft View Post

I would rather oil my centerstand bolt than my carb. There is the issue. How much? I suspect SB hasn't that many miles since he has done that mod. The goo will add up soon enough.
Can't quantify the effect as removing the worn elements put everything back to normal: a drop now and then, more when you wring it, but nothing excessive. Good thing is the airfilter housing is clean and no oil gets to the carbs.
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... i'm not touring around the world, but neither are most of the guys i see running overloaded spam cans ... [bmwblake]

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Ontario, Canada

'72 R75/5 The Blues

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Old 02-12-2011, 05:48 AM   #87
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Alrighty then. Thanks for the answers!
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Old 02-12-2011, 06:12 AM   #88
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I'm seeing the following things;

1. Less worn heads equate to less oil due to less blow-by resulting in less pressure forcing oil into the breather.

2. Oil into the carbs results in more carbon buildup in the cylinder

3. Less restriction in the airbox is a good thing.


Because of #1 I do not have much oil. My heads have new rings, new valves, and basically a new top end as of about 7k ago. So..I have very little blow-by.

Because of #3 it is a benefit to run the hose to the center stand or out the back. the drippers block 10% approx of the intake hoses.

#2 in time simply results in less displacement...
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Old 02-12-2011, 10:03 AM   #89
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Can't quantify the effect as removing the worn elements put everything back to normal: a drop now and then, more when you wring it, but nothing excessive. Good thing is the airfilter housing is clean and no oil gets to the carbs.
Bingo!

Even the tightest airheads do have oil coming out of their breathers. I think you will find after some more miles, especially highway miles, that you have got quite a mess down there. In my experience that setup will oil the back tire.

Here's a good test: Wash your bike real well. Ride it on gravel a couple of miles and get a thin layer of dust on it and then go out on the highway and ride it 80 or 90mph for 40 miles. Get off and look were the oil is. You will be amazed.
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Old 02-13-2011, 12:13 PM   #90
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I've got to say, I'm a little embarrassed my thread has taken this turn-
There's too much good information to be had here to waste it with the back and forth banter.
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