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Old 02-06-2011, 11:30 PM   #46
Inane Cathode OP
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Originally Posted by scottybm1 View Post
I've seen some really nice conversions done with a radiator hidden inside of a fake spare tire. They had a "continental kit" mounted on the nose with expanded metal/mesh instead of the front panel. Plenty of room inside of one of those for any kind of radiator/fan combo you'd like. The additional benefit is you could throw a soft cover on one for really cold weather. Mount a VW emblem on it and no one would be the wiser.
Eh, i had thought of that but i think it'd look a little goofy, or be too small.
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Old 02-07-2011, 05:57 AM   #47
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Want!

It's such bullshit the the toys we are not allowed to have here.
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Old 02-07-2011, 09:08 AM   #48
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Conversion into what? Campers I assume? Links?
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Old 02-07-2011, 10:38 AM   #49
JimVonBaden
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Great thread!

I had a 73 VW Van in the mid 80's:



It had a nicely massaged 1835 moto in it with Dual Webbers. It had about 120 HP. Still not fast, but it kept up with regular traffic OK.


Here is the motor before I put the dual carbs on it.

Jim

PS Yes, that was in my living room, in a trailer, in FL near the beach, and next to the paper mill!
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Old 02-07-2011, 10:58 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post
Great thread!

I had a 73 VW Van in the mid 80's:



It had a nicely massaged 1835 moto in it with Dual Webbers. It had about 120 HP. Still not fast, but it kept up with regular traffic OK.


Here is the motor before I put the dual carbs on it.

Jim

PS Yes, that was in my living room, in a trailer, in FL near the beach, and next to the paper mill!
That is a '68-'71 bus. Only years with upright motor and those bumpers/lights. 1972 and on had the pancake motor.
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Old 02-07-2011, 11:11 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by SourKraut View Post
That is a '68-'71 bus. Only years with upright motor and those bumpers/lights. 1972 and on had the pancake motor.
Oops, 71. I am old and it was a LONG time ago!

Jim
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Old 02-07-2011, 12:36 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by PecosBill View Post
It's such bullshit the the toys we are not allowed to have here.
Innit!?

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Old 02-07-2011, 12:55 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by Inane Cathode View Post
Hey thanks, i figure i should at least have some blurbs and pictures, i didnt find a whole lot of start-finish busaru build threads so i'd figure i'd make one.//
I'll post on NASIOC and see what they come up with.

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Old 02-07-2011, 03:21 PM   #54
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Let me get this straight...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Inane Cathode View Post
In the shots pictured you might find the following:
1983 gpz (just rebuilt the motor, not mine)
1976 rd400 (just sold this to my brother to finance the Pokey Project)
1981 tt500
1965 caprice coupe/4door (also not mine)
1967 ct90 (just put a new piston in it, but i got something goofy in the reduction box so it binds)

Update, dateline The Woods, temperature:20f wind:~20mph
The garage, as it were:

The motor is installed, sort of. It's up against the trans, the splines are meshed, but no nuts are on yet.

I had a hangup with one of the heater lines it took me a bit to find. I cut the hose off and bent the top line down about half an inch. I had to remove the EGR valve, it stuck out too much. Theres no way to rig it so the egr can stay, so i'll be making (40 dollars for a block off plate, lol) a plate to cover it.


I want to leave the throttle body as it is because i'd rather not go through the nightmare of the alternator versus the iac again. I also would like to see if i can run an a/c compressor as a regular compressor, just flip a switch and it'll start pushing air. Hmm.

Anyhow, i'll have to zip the nuts down, then go to work on making the motor mounts hook up to the frame. I'll be using the stock hangers on the frame, and the stock motor mounts on the engine. Maybe some square stock going up to the mount, to the other side, then back out to the other mount.
The motor is probably the physically hardest part. Nothing real tricky about it, line it up, push it in. I had an issue with the ramps being too high, so i had to jack up the right side, take the ramp out, and set it down on a jack stand thats about 9 inches lower. That did the trick :)

(thanks to joz on advrider for lending me his atv jack. worked perfectly just the way i hoped it would :))
You're saying that the bell housing of the VW lines up perfectly with the studs on the Subaru engine? And you are using the flywheel and clutch assy. from KEP? Do you use the VW or the Subee starter?
My '84 Westy odometer broke at 245,000mi so I'm starting to wonder if it's gonna shit a con-rod on my next trip. Plus I have a super-clean '73 Westy that has a weak motor as well.
Thanks for doing this thread!
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Old 02-07-2011, 08:40 PM   #55
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How about a rooftop mount, leaving it horizontal with a low-profile rear-facing scoop on top to help convection draw the heat out when under way?
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Old 02-08-2011, 12:17 AM   #56
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Originally Posted by Mechanista View Post
You're saying that the bell housing of the VW lines up perfectly with the studs on the Subaru engine? And you are using the flywheel and clutch assy. from KEP? Do you use the VW or the Subee starter?
My '84 Westy odometer broke at 245,000mi so I'm starting to wonder if it's gonna shit a con-rod on my next trip. Plus I have a super-clean '73 Westy that has a weak motor as well.
Thanks for doing this thread!

No the studs dont really line up. I used the KEP adapter plate and flywheel. The plate bolts to the suby motor, and provides the four mounting studs that stick through the trans and you put nuts on those to hold it in. The flywheel is a vw flywheel in shape along with the ring gear, but with a subaru center and the whole thing is much thicker to take up the space the adapter plate puts between the trans and the motor.

I'll be using the VW starter, turns it over fine right now, and i've been using the stock vw starter in my beetle-subaru project for about 15k miles and its still goin alright.

The rational i have for doing this is at least around here any motor those buses ever came with is not sufficient for the kind of hills and speeds i'd like to do. I dont want a rocket ship (and it wont be one) but i really dont think it's safe to have to drop it into second to go up a hill with a posted limit of 45. I've done the same treatment to my 72 beetle and i've been pretty happy (very) with the power and reliability (well, outside of what i messed up with the install) and it felt like kinda a waste of a motor on such a small car.

Like someone else had posted, a bigger more reliable power plant is the solution to the biggest problem i would have if i ever want to go on silly adventures in a bus. What's the best part, i think, is it's not like two pounds of crap in a one pound bag as far as the chassis is concerned. The brakes on late model bays are fantastic (huge rear drums, front disk, vacuum boosted) the frame and suspension components are quite beefy (1500lb carrying capacity) and it can actually tow stuff with some success.

Work on pokey will be on pause for a week or so i'm thinking. We're getting absolutely socked with winter weather here, i've got a two inch snow drift INSIDE my apartment from the wind and snow squeaking under the door. I'll work when its cold, and snowy, but not very cold and very snowy.

Edit: Roof mount rad
Naw, wouldnt work out for me. The rear 3/4s of the roof is moving, and the whole kit would be really really tall.
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Old 02-08-2011, 03:35 AM   #57
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I would almost wonder about mounting it in the rear with a good sized fan and perhaps some ducting to encourage flow.
That's how Fiat 600/850/Abarths were arranged, and it didn't work all that well. Not in my experience, anyway.
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Old 02-19-2011, 10:33 PM   #58
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Sorry about the hiatus, bad weather and a speeding ticket blew through my universe and put a temporary halt to Mister Pokeylope's operation. With some funds and nice weather lately i've done a few more things to him.

First thing was finishing the engine mounts, and doing up the exhaust on there and checking clearances. Everything looks pretty good i think (ignore the poor welds, they could be better but they could be alooooooot worse)


Then i started on mounting the radiator. It's hard just coming up with a place and a way something is to be there when it hasnt before, if that makes any sense.


I did a pretty simple design, i think. The bottom has a couple of pieces that rest partly on the front bumper, partly welded to the front apron. The bottom supports the actual weight of the radiator vertically...


And the top part of the radiator mount keeps the radiator from wanting to fall back into the body, or fall out forwards in front, as well as keeps the weight straight up and down on the lower mount instead of trying to torque it out


Something like this


There are two struts that connect the top and the bottom. Hopefully, there will be a screen of some kind behind the struts to keep gravel from knicking any of the galleries.


Well thats pretty much it as far as progress. Doesnt look like much, i know. I think my welder creates some kind of time warp, because i spend all day working on -something- and at the end of the day i got hardly anything done, huh.
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Old 02-20-2011, 06:48 PM   #59
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great job dude!

Not having a garage doesn't stop you - nor should it. Reminds me of my own "wrench at all costs" attitude about 15 years or so ago.

Just one thing: get a gas bottle and stop using flux-core. Or is that a stick?
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Old 02-20-2011, 09:44 PM   #60
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great job dude!

Not having a garage doesn't stop you - nor should it. Reminds me of my own "wrench at all costs" attitude about 15 years or so ago.

Just one thing: get a gas bottle and stop using flux-core. Or is that a stick?

Flux core, yeh. I cant really (well i could but thats less pokey money) get the gas conversion kit for my welder, but a couple things are stopping me, well a few. One, i know nothing about gas feed welders. Two, bottles are expensive, and my welder is far far away from anywhere that refills them. Three is, i work outside, and theres often quite a breeze going, i dont know if a gas feed will work outdoors as well as flux does.
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