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Old 01-20-2011, 12:16 PM   #1
narcosis junky OP
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Joined: Jun 2009
Location: Eugene OREGON
Oddometer: 145
V-strom protection, skid plates,radiator guards,lifts,oil cooler guards

Enduro guardian
V-strom after market stuff. skid plates,radiator guards,oil cooler guards,lift kits.

I make Skid plates for The Suzuki V-strom 650 and 1000.




I make this stuff my self.

I sell the Steel Skid Plate for $130 Powder coated black
I sell the Stainless skid plate for $190 Powder coated black
I sell the Aluminum skid plate for $200 Powder coated black
I sell the mounting bracket for $35 with hardware
Custom paint color is $10 more
Hardware Up grade is $10 more

Total $165 for the standard steel skid plate package.

The Radiator guards are a limited edition. Only 25.



Radiator guards are $100 Mirror finish stainless.(I can powder coat them black)
Oil cooler guards are $50 Mirror finish stainless.(I can powder coat this also)
Lift kits are $50 1/4" stainless




Shipping for skid plates, I ship UPS in the US and USPS for International. It is the cheapest.
West coast comes out to be between $14 and $18
East coast comes out to be between $22 and $26
Canada comes out to be about $52
Other country's between $82 and $120(England $84)(Australia and New Zealand $116.40)


P/S The skid plate is designed to deflect rocks/gravel, small objects. It's designed to protect your oil filter, oil cooler, exhaust. It is not designed to be used as a belly ramp to go over logs and jumping buildings. If you choose to do that, you are doing it at your own risk. Yes the product is very strong, but it is only as strong as the tube guard that it is mounted to. So I'm not liable if damage is done to your bike.

Reasons for the design.

I didn't like the after market ones because they are expensive and cheaply made. I had an aluminum one that I paid $219. It had cut outs on the bottom for the exhaust. So it didn't protect the exhaust. And first time off road, The aluminum skid plate got all bent up. So I decided on inventing and making my own. I work for a fabrication shop. So I decided to get creative on my Solid works Program.



The things I wanted out of a skid plate:

To protect The exhaust.
To protect the Oil filter.
To protect the Oil cooler.
To be able to lift the whole bike from under the skid plate.
To be strong and tough.
To look good.
To adapt to Givi, Motech, Hepco, OEM, Altrider, Touratech Crash bars.
And easy to install.

What I didn't want:

holes on the bottom where sticks could poke through.
a hole to drain the oil. It doesn't work. you end up making a mess.
A hole to change the filter. That would take away the protection I tried to give the oil filter.
If you can get your hand in there, imagine what else will get in.


So this is what I came up with.




Of course it took a few tries and a few designs to perfect it. But I was Happy with the final product.








Now that I had designed the skid plate. I had to tackle the next problem.

The mounting bracket. The one that came with my aluminum skid plate was thin, cheap, and flimsy. I kept bending it.
So I decided that I had to create a new one and much stronger. The kind that a Duel Sport bike should have. I believe if you are going to protect your investment (Motorcycle) then you have to do it right.


Here is a comparison of the competitions bracket and My bracket.
My bracket is 1/4" thick and made of steel. Powder coated in black.








And of course, every one wants the hardware supplied with the Skid plate and bracket.
So, I put together a hardware kit. Every thing you need to install the skid plate.



Now I ask that when you order, you specify the type of bolts you want under the skid plate.

Hex? or pan head?




The Upgrade Hardware kit allows you to have pan head bolts go in from the front of the skid plate So you don't have nuts sticking out. Some people like that better.
The Upgrade consists of 5/16" stainless button head bolts and machined blocks that go on the back of the crash bars.






The install


Very important, you must lube the stainless bolts on the bottom. I use mild lock tight. You can also use anti seize, or oil. You are bolting a stainless bolt into a stainless lock nut. Both are stainless. If you use excessive force, they will seize. If you use an impact they will seize. If you use a cheater bar they will seize. As long as you use lube, they will not seize. If you choose to not use some kind of lube, and they seize up, You will be sorry. So please use a lube. The other fasteners are not as sensitive. But the two bolts on the bottom matter. I go the extra mile to tig weld two stainless nylock nuts to avoid rust issues. If I use steel nuts and steel bolts, then you would have to deal with rust. Not a good choice, so use lube on the stainless. Please.


First you need to get your bike off of your kick stand. Use a duel kick stand if you have one.

You will have to remove the bolt that holds your exhaust and the two bolts that hold your kick stand. You can use a 12" extension and a wobbly to reach from the opposite side. It works really well.





Then you need to install the bracket.







Then you put both U-bolts on the front of your crash bars. I use a piece of green rubber with 4 holes. You can use a piece of inner tube.
Anything works. it's just to put a layer between the skid plate and the crash bar. And it holds the U-bolts in position. It's not mandatory to put something there. It just helps to hold the U-bolts in position.





Then I hold up the front of the skid plate and bolt the front on. I use the second set of holes. I bolt it on loosely.







Then I raise the rear up to the bracket and install the two bolts. Remember to lube these two bolts. They are both stainless bolts and stainless lock nuts. If you don't put oil,grease,lock tight or some thing, they will seize permanently. Once everything is screwed in, Tighten all the nuts and bolts. And you are done.







Now here is more info on the product.

It is made of steel and powder coated black.
Steel is 11 gauge. (1/8" steel) weight about 11 lbs.
Stainless is also 11 gauge. weight about 11.5 lbs. (hardest material)(no rust)
Aluminum is 3/16 and weight is about 8 lbs.( softer material)

The bracket is 1/4" steel. Powder coated black.

The bottom bolts are 3/8" bolts.
The front U-bolts are 1/4"
The two Kick stand bolts are M12 x 1.25 X 35
The exhaust bolt is M8 x 1.25 x 2"

When ready to order,
send me a E-mail with your order and zip code so I can look up shipping.
Then I will send you a paypal invoice. Once paid, I ship.

I take Paypal, money orders. I will do checks, but I will wait for them to clear. (I don't like checks) but will accept.
I sell these for half of what you would pay in a retail store.
So I don't make much of a profit. The prices are what they are.

If you have questions, you can PM me or
E-mail me.

Yann D.
Yann_dex@msn.com
Enduro.guardian@gmail.com
(541)896-1205
(541)912-1205

Oregon
97404

Please post pictures of your skid plate mounted if you can. On this thread.
Or e-mail me pics if you can. Thank you.

Pictures of skid plate on other V-strom 650











narcosis junky screwed with this post 01-20-2011 at 12:26 PM
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Old 01-20-2011, 12:29 PM   #2
narcosis junky OP
NARCOSIS JUNKY
 
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Joined: Jun 2009
Location: Eugene OREGON
Oddometer: 145
V-strom protection, skid plates, radiator guards,lifts, oil cooler guards

Enduro guardian
V-strom after market stuff. skid plates,radiator guards,oil cooler guards,lift kits.

I make Skid plates for The Suzuki V-strom 650 and 1000.




I make this stuff my self.

I sell the Steel Skid Plate for $130 Powder coated black
I sell the Stainless skid plate for $190 Powder coated black
I sell the Aluminum skid plate for $200 Powder coated black
I sell the mounting bracket for $35 with hardware
Custom paint color is $10 more
Hardware Up grade is $10 more

Total $165 for the standard steel skid plate package.

The Radiator guards are a limited edition. Only 25.



Radiator guards are $100 Mirror finish stainless.(I can powder coat them black)
Oil cooler guards are $50 Mirror finish stainless.(I can powder coat this also)
Lift kits are $50 1/4" stainless




Shipping for skid plates, I ship UPS in the US and USPS for International. It is the cheapest.
West coast comes out to be between $14 and $18
East coast comes out to be between $22 and $26
Canada comes out to be about $52
Other country's between $82 and $120(England $84)(Australia and New Zealand $116.40)


P/S The skid plate is designed to deflect rocks/gravel, small objects. It's designed to protect your oil filter, oil cooler, exhaust. It is not designed to be used as a belly ramp to go over logs and jumping buildings. If you choose to do that, you are doing it at your own risk. Yes the product is very strong, but it is only as strong as the tube guard that it is mounted to. So I'm not liable if damage is done to your bike.

Reasons for the design.

I didn't like the after market ones because they are expensive and cheaply made. I had an aluminum one that I paid $219. It had cut outs on the bottom for the exhaust. So it didn't protect the exhaust. And first time off road, The aluminum skid plate got all bent up. So I decided on inventing and making my own. I work for a fabrication shop. So I decided to get creative on my Solid works Program.



The things I wanted out of a skid plate:

To protect The exhaust.
To protect the Oil filter.
To protect the Oil cooler.
To be able to lift the whole bike from under the skid plate.
To be strong and tough.
To look good.
To adapt to Givi, Motech, Hepco, OEM, Altrider, Touratech Crash bars.
And easy to install.

What I didn't want:

holes on the bottom where sticks could poke through.
a hole to drain the oil. It doesn't work. you end up making a mess.
A hole to change the filter. That would take away the protection I tried to give the oil filter.
If you can get your hand in there, imagine what else will get in.


So this is what I came up with.




Of course it took a few tries and a few designs to perfect it. But I was Happy with the final product.








Now that I had designed the skid plate. I had to tackle the next problem.

The mounting bracket. The one that came with my aluminum skid plate was thin, cheap, and flimsy. I kept bending it.
So I decided that I had to create a new one and much stronger. The kind that a Duel Sport bike should have. I believe if you are going to protect your investment (Motorcycle) then you have to do it right.


Here is a comparison of the competitions bracket and My bracket.
My bracket is 1/4" thick and made of steel. Powder coated in black.








And of course, every one wants the hardware supplied with the Skid plate and bracket.
So, I put together a hardware kit. Every thing you need to install the skid plate.



Now I ask that when you order, you specify the type of bolts you want under the skid plate.

Hex? or pan head?




The Upgrade Hardware kit allows you to have pan head bolts go in from the front of the skid plate So you don't have nuts sticking out. Some people like that better.
The Upgrade consists of 5/16" stainless button head bolts and machined blocks that go on the back of the crash bars.






The install


Very important, you must lube the stainless bolts on the bottom. I use mild lock tight. You can also use anti seize, or oil. You are bolting a stainless bolt into a stainless lock nut. Both are stainless. If you use excessive force, they will seize. If you use an impact they will seize. If you use a cheater bar they will seize. As long as you use lube, they will not seize. If you choose to not use some kind of lube, and they seize up, You will be sorry. So please use a lube. The other fasteners are not as sensitive. But the two bolts on the bottom matter. I go the extra mile to tig weld two stainless nylock nuts to avoid rust issues. If I use steel nuts and steel bolts, then you would have to deal with rust. Not a good choice, so use lube on the stainless. Please.


First you need to get your bike off of your kick stand. Use a duel kick stand if you have one.

You will have to remove the bolt that holds your exhaust and the two bolts that hold your kick stand. You can use a 12" extension and a wobbly to reach from the opposite side. It works really well.





Then you need to install the bracket.







Then you put both U-bolts on the front of your crash bars. I use a piece of green rubber with 4 holes. You can use a piece of inner tube.
Anything works. it's just to put a layer between the skid plate and the crash bar. And it holds the U-bolts in position. It's not mandatory to put something there. It just helps to hold the U-bolts in position.





Then I hold up the front of the skid plate and bolt the front on. I use the second set of holes. I bolt it on loosely.







Then I raise the rear up to the bracket and install the two bolts. Remember to lube these two bolts. They are both stainless bolts and stainless lock nuts. If you don't put oil,grease,lock tight or some thing, they will seize permanently. Once everything is screwed in, Tighten all the nuts and bolts. And you are done.







Now here is more info on the product.

It is made of steel and powder coated black.
Steel is 11 gauge. (1/8" steel) weight about 11 lbs.
Stainless is also 11 gauge. weight about 11.5 lbs. (hardest material)(no rust)
Aluminum is 3/16 and weight is about 8 lbs.( softer material)

The bracket is 1/4" steel. Powder coated black.

The bottom bolts are 3/8" bolts.
The front U-bolts are 1/4"
The two Kick stand bolts are M12 x 1.25 X 35
The exhaust bolt is M8 x 1.25 x 2"

When ready to order,
send me a E-mail with your order and zip code so I can look up shipping.
Then I will send you a paypal invoice. Once paid, I ship.

I take Paypal, money orders. I will do checks, but I will wait for them to clear. (I don't like checks) but will accept.
I sell these for half of what you would pay in a retail store.
So I don't make much of a profit. The prices are what they are.

If you have questions, you can PM me or
E-mail me.

Yann D.
Yann_dex@msn.com
Enduro.guardian@gmail.com
(541)896-1205
(541)912-1205

Oregon
97404

Please post pictures of your skid plate mounted if you can. On this thread.
Or e-mail me pics if you can. Thank you.

Pictures of skid plate on other V-strom 650










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Old 01-20-2011, 01:08 PM   #3
C-Stain
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Location: Canoodia, eh?
Oddometer: 5,593
FYI...

When my bonus check arrives next week..this is the #1 purchase on my list.

I will be in touch.
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Old 01-20-2011, 02:09 PM   #4
GB
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Please confine your selling threads to Vendors where this thread has been moved.
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Old 01-20-2011, 08:32 PM   #5
TouringDave
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Damn! they are really nice!

Hmmm, I need a few more farkles for the Strom outfit.
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Old 01-20-2011, 08:57 PM   #6
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nice stuff!
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Butler Maps website:
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Old 01-20-2011, 10:19 PM   #7
Jamie Z
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This will get moved to vendors soon enough. No matter... looks like good stuff, except for one thing.

The biggest complaint I have about my current skid plate is that the bolt heads are the lowest part of the bike. Quite frequently I've gone over some inane object, like a branch or a mound of dirt in the woods, or in the city a curb or tall speed bump, and the skid plate goes over fine but the bolt heads will catch and bend up the mounting bracket.

I don't even care how sturdy and robust the bracket and skidplate are, I just wish the mounting bolts were somewhere other than the lowest point of the bike.

Jamie
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Old 01-24-2011, 09:53 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie Z View Post
This will get moved to vendors soon enough. No matter... looks like good stuff, except for one thing.

The biggest complaint I have about my current skid plate is that the bolt heads are the lowest part of the bike. Quite frequently I've gone over some inane object, like a branch or a mound of dirt in the woods, or in the city a curb or tall speed bump, and the skid plate goes over fine but the bolt heads will catch and bend up the mounting bracket.

I don't even care how sturdy and robust the bracket and skidplate are, I just wish the mounting bolts were somewhere other than the lowest point of the bike.

Jamie
+1 to this. I'm on my second Amotostuff v1.0 bracket. The first one was pounded back into spec 4 times before it was finally ruined and I'm fast approaching the same with the second.
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Old 01-25-2011, 10:49 AM   #9
narcosis junky OP
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Skid plate info from Enduro guardian (yann)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie Z View Post
This will get moved to vendors soon enough. No matter... looks like good stuff, except for one thing.

The biggest complaint I have about my current skid plate is that the bolt heads are the lowest part of the bike. Quite frequently I've gone over some inane object, like a branch or a mound of dirt in the woods, or in the city a curb or tall speed bump, and the skid plate goes over fine but the bolt heads will catch and bend up the mounting bracket.

I don't even care how sturdy and robust the bracket and skidplate are, I just wish the mounting bolts were somewhere other than the lowest point of the bike.

Jamie

Well, that's why I offer pan head bolts. Really low profile and rounded. And my bracket is built like a tank. I have owned other brands of brackets ans skid plate. My design is designed to last. The other brands are not designed to last. People are jacking up their bikes by my skid plate. It's designed to handle the weight. I offer hex bolts, but I also offer pan head. Now yes, I could create some kind of reassessed hole for the bolt head, but then the skid plate would be another half inch lower, it would require either more machining or more stamping or press brake labor. That would bring up the cost considerably due to more labor. I came up with this design because it was the cheapest to manufacture and I could offer a skid plate for $130. You won't see any one else sell you what I offer for that price. Every one else want's $300 for their skid plate. I don't make much, but I make a lot of V-strom owners very happy. And that makes me happy. I have other designs in my mind, but then it would be a skid plate that only fits certain V-stroms. I also had to create a design that fit's every year V-strom, every crash bar designs on the market. And fitting every crash bars on the market was the big challenge. that's what stopped me from creating a design where the bolts would be mounted from the side.
I can't please every one. I needed a slot design on the bottom to adjust the skid plate forward and backward for the different crash bar designs.
Remember, I have a universal design that will fit the DL1000, the DL650, Every year model, and 95% of all the crash bar designs. So if you buy a DL 1000 and you decide to sell it and buy a DL650, you can take it off and transfer it to your new bike. You don't have to order a skid plate for each individual bike. It's a universal skid plate. Any how that's my own two cents.

Thank you.

yann
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Old 01-25-2011, 10:50 AM   #10
narcosis junky OP
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Joined: Jun 2009
Location: Eugene OREGON
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G-Dog View Post
+1 to this. I'm on my second Amotostuff v1.0 bracket. The first one was pounded back into spec 4 times before it was finally ruined and I'm fast approaching the same with the second.


Same thing.

Well, that's why I offer pan head bolts. Really low profile and rounded. And my bracket is built like a tank. I have owned other brands of brackets ans skid plate. My design is designed to last. The other brands are not designed to last. People are jacking up their bikes by my skid plate. It's designed to handle the weight. I offer hex bolts, but I also offer pan head. Now yes, I could create some kind of reassessed hole for the bolt head, but then the skid plate would be another half inch lower, it would require either more machining or more stamping or press brake labor. That would bring up the cost considerably due to more labor. I came up with this design because it was the cheapest to manufacture and I could offer a skid plate for $130. You won't see any one else sell you what I offer for that price. Every one else want's $300 for their skid plate. I don't make much, but I make a lot of V-strom owners very happy. And that makes me happy. I have other designs in my mind, but then it would be a skid plate that only fits certain V-stroms. I also had to create a design that fit's every year V-strom, every crash bar designs on the market. And fitting every crash bars on the market was the big challenge. that's what stopped me from creating a design where the bolts would be mounted from the side.
I can't please every one. I needed a slot design on the bottom to adjust the skid plate forward and backward for the different crash bar designs.
Remember, I have a universal design that will fit the DL1000, the DL650, Every year model, and 95% of all the crash bar designs. So if you buy a DL 1000 and you decide to sell it and buy a DL650, you can take it off and transfer it to your new bike. You don't have to order a skid plate for each individual bike. It's a universal skid plate. Any how that's my own two cents.

Thank you.

yann
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Old 01-25-2011, 12:14 PM   #11
tedder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by narcosis junky View Post
Well, that's why I offer pan head bolts.
May as well offer hex head bolts. They get ground into a panhead shape soon enough
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Old 01-25-2011, 01:14 PM   #12
narcosis junky OP
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Location: Eugene OREGON
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tedder View Post
May as well offer hex head bolts. They get ground into a panhead shape soon enough
Hex head is what comes with the kit. Pan head is just an option I offer for people who don't want Hex.

yann
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Old 01-26-2011, 04:51 AM   #13
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sent you a PM..
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Old 03-26-2011, 12:05 PM   #14
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Some Pics of the Skidplate on a DL1000

Yann,

I could not be happier with your product. I think it will serve my needs perfectly.

Here are some pics of the whole process. Everything from the packaging to the finish on the skidplate is absolutely flawless.











Nice instructions. (if you're the sissy type that needs instructions lol)


Everything is wrapped up very nicely


Bag o' hardware




This mounting bracket is HEAVY DUTY! I'm worried that the bike will break before the bracket does (there's actually a disclaimer in the instructions about this, not that I read the instructions... )






I mounted the front as high as possible to maximize ground clearance. Using the second set of holes.






Since Givi moved the clamp hardware to the upper/front of their crashbars, I had to modify the skid plate a little bit. I drilled two holes and cut vertically with the bandsaw, then knocked the piece out with a die grinder. File and spray paint the edges to protect the raw steel. Easy.


Also notice the upgraded hardware kit








Suzuki center stand clearance
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Old 03-26-2011, 01:23 PM   #15
narcosis junky OP
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Nice write up, thank you.

Thank you for the write up. Nice pictures.
By the way, the brackets on the crash bars are on the front of all of them I believe.
It's a nice touch what you did (cutting out the notch) but not necessary. Mine is the same way. You just tighten down the skid plate against the bracket. But I do like your custom touch. It's also why I recommend the piece of inner tube or what ever you choose to use. It's extra padding between the parts, but not necessary.
Again, thank you for all your pictures and your hard work. I appreciate this very much.

Yann
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