Hi All, I decided today was the day to foray into the fluids on my relatively newly acquired R75/5. After an extensive warm-up ride (it hit 69° F today in Atlanta), I drained and refilled everything. The final drive filler plug came out rough, and on closer inspection the threads are not happy campers... The magnet was clean of metal, which I guess is good. I recall reading about this somewhere on the Internet, but Google is defying my searches right now. So any reason I can't clean them up and go about my business? Top's not so hot, but the bottom half looks OK. And pros/cons about doing it in place? It's been about 16 years since I tapped something out, but that was on a nuclear submarine. And recommendations on where to buy a tap? Sears only has an 18x1.5 in their largest set, and I'm not really keen on spending $300. Rather just get the one I need. Thanks for you help.
A tap may make them look a little better but isn't going to make up for the missing pieces, Id look into helicoils and timecerts... wouldn't do any of the 3 in place myself. Or plan B would be to take it off and drop off at a good machine shop. Plan C.... if it threads back in and holds oil, ride it.
I don't think C is an option. Morbid curiosity made me give it a gentle try and it wants to go in crooked.
There are plenty of opinions out there, so just do what feels right for you. It's aluminum and relatively soft. It's a filler plug hole.If you're interested in cosmetics go the Heli-coil/Timesert etc., route.If not, get the appropriate sized tap, grease 'er up, and clean up those threads.It needs to seal to stop the fluid from the FD from oozing out. If you're worried about the potential for leakage,the breather at the top of the FD will handle the internal pressure which builds up, especially in cold weather.Just my 2 cents ... Woodgrain
I would clean the threads with a roll tap and nut a cutting tap. You can get them one at a time at good machine shop supply stores.
You can get an expanding rubber plug that will seal fine, for a couple or so bucks.. I have used them for drain plug applications.
Just tap it and be done with it. Aluminum is not all that hard to tap. Apply the KISS principle as it is an Airhead. We own and ride them because either the bike or we are simple. I am not going to try and figure out which.
That's what I was trying to say. Run a tap through it. I would run a roll tap through it. I think they are better for this app..
I am assured member of the "if it doesn't leak, don't worry" set. 30 plus Airheads in the past as many years (I even have a low Airhead number, big whoop). Worry less, ride more.
I thought about that, but trying to fight the inclination to jam the plug back in there, go riding, and defer all this until the next time I check final drive level. I think a roll tap is the same as a rethreading tap, no? And way too much time on the internet today makes me think they don't exist larger than M14. I'll try calling some machine tool supply places tomorrow. In the meantime, maybe a M18x1.5 spark plug tap will work? http://www.irwin.com/tools/taps-dies-sets/spark-plug-taps-hcs It's all over the web for about $7.
Those threads don't look too bad, I think. Give the plug a smear of rtv, use a copper crushwasher and when it's oiltight, it's oiltight. Don't loose any sleep over it. Paul.
They are fine as they are, if the plug is steel. Chasing the threads with a tap would be sexy, but unless you are an accomplished machinist, you're VERY likely to pick up the wrong lead and make them MUCH worse. (no offense intended). A Heli/Time sert would be a lot of time and effort for nothing. Use it as is and rest easy, that plu g will not fall out.
Falling out was the least of my worries. Getting it in was the issue. But thoroughly emboldened, the SS plug is back in. Torque spec was exceeded the entire way in I am sure. So I think I have just kicked the issue down the street for next time. Attempts to test the seal have gone awry though. On initial startup post fluid change, there was a metallic noise like something was being thrown. My initial thought was I left a tool sitting on the bike, so I let it run. However it wouldn't stay running without throttle, which was new. And in retrospect a tool makes no sense, since there's nothing moving on the outside of the bike to cause a tool to be flung. Not sure how changing all the fluids, the air filter, and the low oil pressure switch could change the idle. So I guess something is broken. Ugh. I'll deal with it tomorrow.
