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Old 04-07-2013, 09:46 AM   #76
Dracula
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guy Young View Post
Vic, his bike has right around 77K on it.
... he seems to have a tendency to really slip the clutch when starting out.... whether it be at a stop light or whatever. He really brings up the engine RPM and feathers the clutch (IMHO - excessively) to get under way.
Thanks much for responding. On the GS during the years I find no need to rev the engine above 2,000 rpm to get started. Maybe even less. And I keep slippage time to a minimum, either engaged or disengaged for street riding. It just feels right this way. The motor has so much torque that it will not bog down and can be lugged without problems. Can also start in 2nd gear without much issue if needed.
Only time slippage seems necessary is if doing trick uphill starts. Or if trailing rear brake in some tight turns. Off road may involve different techniques but other than uphill or deep sand starts and tight turns can't think of other cases. Seems slippage at slow clutch rotational speeds is what will put allot less wear. Some say it is better to keep stock clutch as it was designed as sacrifice wear item vs. other more expensive transmission parts.

Thanks for posting your work, will follow along to see the project through.

Best,
Vic
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Old 04-07-2013, 10:22 AM   #77
Guy Young
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dracula View Post
Thanks much for responding. On the GS during the years I find no need to rev the engine above 2,000 rpm to get started. Maybe even less. And I keep slippage time to a minimum, either engaged or disengaged for street riding. It just feels right this way. The motor has so much torque that it will not bog down and can be lugged without problems. Can also start in 2nd gear without much issue if needed.
Only time slippage seems necessary is if doing trick uphill starts. Or if trailing rear brake in some tight turns. Off road may involve different techniques but other than uphill or deep sand starts and tight turns can't think of other cases. Seems slippage at slow clutch rotational speeds is what will put allot less wear. Some say it is better to keep stock clutch as it was designed as sacrifice wear item vs. other more expensive transmission parts.

Thanks for posting your work, will follow along to see the project through.

Best,
Vic
Am looking forward to seeing this thing to completion too. My apologies for not being as detailed and organised as jdub did in his original write-up. Once my hands get greasy, the Powershot doesn't get used until I'm at a convenient stopping point.

The GSA's owner also has these in his stable: '07 BMW R1200 GSA (one I'm working on), '05 Honda CRF230F, '62 Ducati 200 Elite, and a '61 BMW R50/2. I've ridden with him all all of them, and he uses the same slippage routine to get rolling. I really can't comment on the CRF230F. I was the one slipping the clutch on my KLR on some of the God-forsaken places he led me to. I was (and still am) nursing the mental image of busting my collarbone up in MT several years ago, and some of the places we went had my anal sphincter puckering big time. Never thought I'd get out of there fully intact with all limbs still functioning.

Regardless, we'll keep the pix coming as we move forward.

.





'07 BMW R1200 GSA,'05 Honda CRF230F,'62 Ducati 200 Elite,'61 BMW R50/2
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Old 04-09-2013, 12:19 PM   #78
JimVonBaden
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Rode over to my friend George's shop Picked up a nearly new clutch for 1/3rd of new.

Old:





New and old:


New:




Next it goes back in as soon as I receive the new seal for the leaky motor.

For anyone needing BMW motorcycle work, george is the best!

Jim

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Old 04-09-2013, 01:14 PM   #79
Makkan
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How did you bleed the brakes? Almost finished now..
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Old 04-09-2013, 02:06 PM   #80
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How did you bleed the brakes? Almost finished now..
When I did mine I used a "Mighty Vac" which worked fine.
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Old 04-09-2013, 05:55 PM   #81
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Originally Posted by Lensgrinder View Post
When I did mine I used a "Mighty Vac" which worked fine.
I haven't quite gotten there yet, but likely will do the same.

Jim
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:15 AM   #82
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Mighty vac? Never heard of a thing like that but it seems handy. Can i use the good old method of pulling the brake and opening the vent as well, the same as i do on cars? And what about the ABS thing under the tank where i disconnected the brake lines? Does it not need venting or is that not a part of the system? A little oil from the brake lines got out when i disconnected them and now the rear brake is not working at all
The bleding screw was broken at my rear brakes but a new one is on its way from germany
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Old 04-12-2013, 11:01 AM   #83
JimVonBaden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Makkan View Post
Mighty vac? Never heard of a thing like that but it seems handy. Can i use the good old method of pulling the brake and opening the vent as well, the same as i do on cars? And what about the ABS thing under the tank where i disconnected the brake lines? Does it not need venting or is that not a part of the system? A little oil from the brake lines got out when i disconnected them and now the rear brake is not working at all
The bleding screw was broken at my rear brakes but a new one is on its way from germany
That usually works just fine. The Mighty Vac just makes it work faster, or when you get a vapor lock.

Jim
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Old 04-12-2013, 07:22 PM   #84
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Thankfully BMW went back to a system that is easy to bleed. As JVB mentioned, the conventional method works just fine. But if you do still have issues, the folks at GS911 added a function that allows you to cycle the ABS module to remove any trapped air. I played with it after I split my bike in two and it seemed to work as described. Although I didn't actually have issues after a conventional bleed. I suspect you won't need it either. But be sure to keep dirt out of the ABS system while you have the lines open. I purchased some rubber plugs from the hardware store to jam in there while servicing then cleaned thoroughly before reassembly.
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Old 04-14-2013, 03:21 PM   #85
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Finished the clutch change on my friend's BMW R1200GS:










Jim

JimVonBaden screwed with this post 04-22-2013 at 07:53 PM
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Old 04-14-2013, 05:18 PM   #86
Dracula
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post

Thanks Jim!

From this picture it looks as if with gearbox in place there is an open area above the clutch so it can be inspected and perhaps even lube the splines. Maybe I am not seeing it right, I never took my GS apart that far.

Best,
Vic
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Old 04-14-2013, 07:48 PM   #87
JimVonBaden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dracula View Post
Thanks Jim!

From this picture it looks as if with gearbox in place there is an open area above the clutch so it can be inspected and perhaps even lube the splines. Maybe I am not seeing it right, I never took my GS apart that far.

Best,
Vic
There is a cover at the top of the gearbox that comes off. However, you need to remove the frame to get to it, so you may as well remove the gearbox and do a proper inspection.

Jim
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Old 04-14-2013, 09:01 PM   #88
Dracula
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post
There is a cover at the top of the gearbox that comes off. However, you need to remove the frame to get to it, so you may as well remove the gearbox and do a proper inspection.

Jim
I see. Wondering how much longer I can postpone this. My GS has 85,000 miles but the clutch feels as good as it always did. I use the clutch quite normally for a dry clutch and am not sure how long they are expected to last and if they give signs of fatigue or just fail.

Best,
Vic
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Old 04-14-2013, 09:11 PM   #89
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This is a terrifying thread.....damn.... I really (really, really) do not want to get this deep into mine.
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Old 04-15-2013, 05:31 AM   #90
JimVonBaden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dracula View Post
I see. Wondering how much longer I can postpone this. My GS has 85,000 miles but the clutch feels as good as it always did. I use the clutch quite normally for a dry clutch and am not sure how long they are expected to last and if they give signs of fatigue or just fail.

Best,
Vic
The R1200 series appears less prone to damage of the splines than the 1150 series, so if you are riding normally, not excessively slipping the clutch, and have no shifting issues, I would not sweat it and ride. Most will never find the point that caused this teardown.

Jim
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