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Old 04-15-2013, 12:01 PM   #91
Makkan
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Originally Posted by TXjames View Post
Thankfully BMW went back to a system that is easy to bleed. As JVB mentioned, the conventional method works just fine. But if you do still have issues, the folks at GS911 added a function that allows you to cycle the ABS module to remove any trapped air. I played with it after I split my bike in two and it seemed to work as described. Although I didn't actually have issues after a conventional bleed. I suspect you won't need it either. But be sure to keep dirt out of the ABS system while you have the lines open. I purchased some rubber plugs from the hardware store to jam in there while servicing then cleaned thoroughly before reassembly.
I tried to bleed the brakes today. There are four bleed screws at the ABS unit and i read on the REProm in which order to use them. Changed oil in the front system without issues but trough the three rear screws there were air coming out. I bled a half bottle of brake fluid keeping the rear reservior full at the whole time. After the third round i gave up, there was bubbles of air coming out the whole time. That much air cannot be in there!! I start to wonder if i jammed one of the seals at the pipes when i put them back them making it draw air from there? There are no visible leaks.. Or am i doing something wrong here?
I dont have the GS911, but i wish i had now....


This is how my unit looks like.

Makkan screwed with this post 04-15-2013 at 12:22 PM
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Old 04-15-2013, 12:16 PM   #92
JimVonBaden
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Originally Posted by Makkan View Post
I tried to bleed the brakes today. There are four bleed screws at the ABS unit and i read on the REProm in which order to use them. Changed oil in the front system without issues but trough the three rear screws there were air coming out. I bled a half bottle of brake fluid keeping the rear reservior full at the whole time. After the third round i gave up, there was bubbles of air coming out the whole time. That much air cannot be in there!! I start to wonder if i jammed one of the seals at the pipes when i put them back them making it draw air from there? There are no visible leaks.. Or am i doing something wrong here?
I dont have the GS911, but i wish i had now....
You have the servo-ABS. That is a different process. It is both more complicated and easier.

This is based on the R1150 servo-ABS, but it works the same for the R1200!

http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/service_abs3.pdf

Jim
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Old 04-16-2013, 12:32 PM   #93
Makkan
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Thanks Jim! This guide was really good. Tried again today and no air came out.
Guess i pressed the brakepedal too far the first time. Catching up the new bleeder for the rear caliper tomorrow so next up is the servo assisted system.
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Old 04-17-2013, 03:58 AM   #94
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I am right in the middle of replacing front, rear & counterbalance seals on my 2005 R1200gs. I have replaced the seals and bolted on the gearbox. Two quick questions:

1.) I Think I must have put my bike in neutral before beginning this whole process and I saw a comment in this thread that when aligning the clutch by mounting the gearbox up temporarily that he turned the output spline to align. I am guessing mine turned on the input spline. Is this anything to worry about.

2.) I didnt have any help when splitting the bike so when I pulled off the rear subframe, the drive shaft came out of the swingarm and stayed attached to the gearbox. I just kept it attached. I thought i had freed the driveshaft from the circlip at the gearbox but maybe not. Anythng I need to be concerned about?


Sorry if they sound like stupid questions but this is my first time doing this type of project.
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Old 04-17-2013, 04:32 AM   #95
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Originally Posted by Average_Joe View Post
I am right in the middle of replacing front, rear & counterbalance seals on my 2005 R1200gs. I have replaced the seals and bolted on the gearbox. Two quick questions:

1.) I Think I must have put my bike in neutral before beginning this whole process and I saw a comment in this thread that when aligning the clutch by mounting the gearbox up temporarily that he turned the output spline to align. I am guessing mine turned on the input spline. Is this anything to worry about. Leave the clutch set loose, align it by eye as much as possible. When installing the trans the shaft will self center the clutch disc. Neutral or not it will just take a little twist of the trans to get it in. After the trans is bolted in rotate the motor using the lower pully on the front of the motor and torque your clutch to the required 12nm in an alternating pattern through the upper clutch cover.

2.) I didnt have any help when splitting the bike so when I pulled off the rear subframe, the drive shaft came out of the swingarm and stayed attached to the gearbox. I just kept it attached. I thought i had freed the driveshaft from the circlip at the gearbox but maybe not. Anythng I need to be concerned about? Not really. You will need to take it off the trans and attach it back to the FD. Just lift the boot from the front and guide it in. When installing the rear frame/swingarm you will need to lift the boot and guide the shaft into the trans as you slide the subframe forward. Align the shaft to the trans output shaft with a screwdriver as you go. It can be finicky, but not too bad.

One word of caution, make sure you do not dislodge the clip on the rear section of the front boot. It is a pain to get back right after you get the frame bolted up.


Sorry if they sound like stupid questions but this is my first time doing this type of project.
Have fun!

Jim
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Old 04-17-2013, 07:53 AM   #96
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Jim,

What is the purpose of turning the motor over from the front pulley? This is what I did:

1.) I bolted up the clutch bolts hand tight and centered the disk as much as possible.

2.) I attached the transmission and guided the transmission spline into the clutch disk to center it.

3.) I tightened the top two clutch bolts that I could get to with the top clutch cover removed.

4.) I removed the transmission and tightened the rest of the clutch bolts in a criss cross pattern to their required torque setting.

5.) I re-mounted the transmission, and installed the 3 transmission bolts to their required torque settings.

When I did step 4 above, the clutch assembly/fly wheel didn't rotate any. I'm guessing that if it had then that is when I would have need to turn the motor over by the front pulley??
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:36 AM   #97
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The purpose, and why I did it, is I did not want to have to remove the trans after I installed it. Your way works fine as well, just more work. I used the front pully to rotate the motor so I could tighten the clutch pack, not so I could align the clutch.

Jim ;brow
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Old 04-17-2013, 09:02 AM   #98
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Thanks Jim. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing an important step. I'm a novice when it comes to a project this large. My son races motocross and I have a pretty good knowledge working with small 2-stoke dirt bikes, but this is on a whole new level. I can have the subframe off of his bikes in about 15 minutes and rebuild a top-end in about an hour. No valves or drive shafts to worry about either. A clutch change goes pretty quickly too. Just want to make sure I do everything correct. I have thoroughly enjoyed this project so far... it has take me longer than it should but I am taking my time and learning along the way. Next time it should go much faster and smoother. You and this thread and other ADVrider threads have been a tremendous help.
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Old 04-17-2013, 11:02 AM   #99
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FYI... Make sure you get your driveshaft off of the circlip before you remove the rear subframe. I thought I had but didn't so when I split the bike the driveshaft stayed connected to the transmission and pulled out of the swingarm. Not a big deal except that when it did this it damaged the little plastic connecter inside the rubber boot cover where it connects to the swingarm. The plastic connecter is part of the boot so you have to buy a whole new boot.... at $65! Dang that's a lot of money for a little rubber boot.
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:22 PM   #100
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Originally Posted by Average_Joe View Post
FYI... Make sure you get your driveshaft off of the circlip before you remove the rear subframe. I thought I had but didn't so when I split the bike the driveshaft stayed connected to the transmission and pulled out of the swingarm. Not a big deal except that when it did this it damaged the little plastic connecter inside the rubber boot cover where it connects to the swingarm. The plastic connecter is part of the boot so you have to buy a whole new boot.... at $65! Dang that's a lot of money for a little rubber boot.
I did the same thing, but I just repaired the plastic clip.

Jim
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:29 PM   #101
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Just curious Jim, how long did the re and re take you?
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:40 PM   #102
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Just curious Jim, how long did the re and re take you?
That is a bit of a difficult question. I was filming when I did it, and the set-up and camera work takes time. I would say about 3-4 hours to take it apart, and similar to reassemble. I believe the dealer time is 8 hours, and they can do it in 6 or less if they are experienced.

tangent/

My real time, with filming, was about 8 hours each way. Editing for a video will be about 100 hours, then add web design, video replication and misc extras, at another 50 hours minimum. Don't forget preplanning the steps and the scenes, photo editing, ... you get the picture. I find prep makes it easier, both the work, and the video work.

/tangent

Jim
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Old 04-18-2013, 02:42 AM   #103
dirtcrack
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I did the same thing, but I just repaired the plastic clip.

Jim
I tried to repair it and just made it worse! I still can't believe a rubber boot cost $65! I could take my wife and 12 year old to a Longhorn dinner for that!
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Old 04-18-2013, 03:48 AM   #104
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this may have already been answered… but still…
I see a lot of talk about lubing the clutch splines.

When is this due? Are there observable signs when riding/running?
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Old 04-18-2013, 04:47 AM   #105
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this may have already been answered… but still…
I see a lot of talk about lubing the clutch splines.

When is this due? Are there observable signs when riding/running?
BMW doesn't have a schedule for it. There really are few signs that it is needed and the factory is hit and miss on getting enough lube on the splines from the factory. Sometimes shifting down gets stickey, but that can be linkage as well.

MOST R1200 bikes do not seem to wear like the 1100/1150 bikes did, even dry, so I'm not sure I would pull the bike apart just to check and lube the splines.

Jim
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