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Old 04-28-2013, 04:38 AM   #8686
specs
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Location: Cardiff, Wales
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerryj View Post
How does one get the cover off the GPS mount? I've turned the key and pushed both levers .Don't want to break anything. Thanks.......................Jerry
Turn the key
Pull the left lever our
Push the right lever in

Good luck!
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Old 04-28-2013, 04:54 AM   #8687
Hicks
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Guys,

maybe I have a problem... have to test it further.

While UPshifting to the 2nd or 3rd gear, even when I do catefully blip the throtle -- quite an often -- I hear a clear and intensive metal impact. Sometimes I even fear then the teeths are audible (omfg!).

The problem is... that from the short test of my friends other LC, I noticed no such strong sound (=much weaker)... the similar for some other bike tested by members of our CZ forum.

odo: ~3500km to date.
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Old 04-28-2013, 06:42 AM   #8688
268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hicks View Post
Guys,

maybe I have a problem... have to test it further.

While UPshifting to the 2nd or 3rd gear, even when I do catefully blip the throtle -- quite an often -- I hear a clear and intensive metal impact. Sometimes I even fear then the teeths are audible (omfg!).

The problem is... that from the short test of my friends other LC, I noticed no such strong sound (=much weaker)... the similar for some other bike tested by members of our CZ forum.

odo: ~3500km to date.
Maybe a clutch problem.
With a cold engine, and my clutch lever in the position N°1 (shortest distance from the handlebar) I can't get the bike into gear.
Also, when I engage the clutch lever, 50% of the distance I pull the lever, I have no pressure at all
As I put the lever in position N°2, I can put the bike in gear, but have a real short distance/space for changing gear, and hear this metal clunk as well.

Was at my dealer yesterday, and he asked me to bring the bike in this week, for a check up.

Will keep you informed.
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Old 04-28-2013, 06:51 AM   #8689
Hicks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by antwerp View Post
Maybe a clutch problem.
With a cold engine, and my clutch lever in the position N°1 (shortest distance from the handlebar) I can't get the bike into gear.
Also, when I engage the clutch lever, 50% of the distance I pull the lever, I have no pressure at all
As I put the lever in position N°2, I can put the bike in gear, but have a real short distance/space for changing gear, and hear this metal clunk as well.

Was at my dealer yesterday, and he asked me to bring the bike in this week, for a check up.

Will keep you informed.
and when upshifting to 2 or 3, you hear the same sound as well?

btw: I've done some research over a clutch already:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=881708
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Old 04-28-2013, 09:11 AM   #8690
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hicks View Post
and when upshifting to 2 or 3, you hear the same sound as well?

btw: I've done some research over a clutch already:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=881708
Yes, it seems to go decrease a lot, when I put the clutch lever in position 4, but it really never goes away.
Now I've had several bikes and some of them had this 'noise-issue' as well, so I don't make much problems of it. The loss of clutch OTH, I don't like so much..
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Old 04-28-2013, 12:18 PM   #8691
Hicks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by antwerp View Post
Yes, it seems to go decrease a lot, when I put the clutch lever in position 4, but it really never goes away.
Now I've had several bikes and some of them had this 'noise-issue' as well, so I don't make much problems of it. The loss of clutch OTH, I don't like so much..
pls what do you mean with that "lever position 4"?

btw: maybe you hit the solution... my friend (a 1150GS rider) did not pull the brake lever all the way to the handlebars.

Tomorrow I will try just the same... Hicks is used to pull the clutch lever as much as possible towards the grip.
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.de + .at + .it + .sk + .pl + .hu + .li + .ch + .fr + .es + .p + .and + .lu + .be + .nl + .uk + .sco + .ork + .slo + .hr + .bih + .srb
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Old 04-28-2013, 12:27 PM   #8692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hicks View Post
pls what do you mean with that "lever position 4"?

btw: maybe you hit the solution... my friend (a 1150GS rider) did not pull the brake lever all the way to the handlebars.

Tomorrow I will try just the same... Hicks is used to pull the clutch lever as much as possible towards the grip.
the lever position : you can adjust your clutch lever (on the left handlebar) froms position 1 to 4.
Normally pos. 1 is when you have smaller hands, so the clutch lever comes closer to the handlebar
N. 4 is when you have big hands
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Old 04-28-2013, 12:34 PM   #8693
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Quote:
Originally Posted by antwerp View Post
the lever position : you can adjust your clutch lever (on the left handlebar) froms position 1 to 4.
Normally pos. 1 is when you have smaller hands, so the clutch lever comes closer to the handlebar
N. 4 is when you have big hands
now I got it...

gonna test that "not-fully-pushed" throttle lever on monday, will inform then. Maybe it will help..

I know that wet clutches do not disengage fully... but... not sure if my particular clutch on the LC does this stuff just TOO MUCH...
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Old 04-28-2013, 01:04 PM   #8694
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Quote:
Originally Posted by At adventure View Post
Definately retains the Boxter feel but in a much more powerful and refined way without loosing the character. Vibes about the same but without the hard edges e.g the engine braking is very effective without the harsh feel of the previous model (my previous bike was a 2010 GS).

Agreed. I test rode one on Friday out of South Sound BMW. Talk about sh*t eatin' grin. Did about a one hour ride (the shop was slow). For comparison I own a R1100GS, an '03 R1150R and I have ridden a friends 2007 R1200GSA and his 2011 Camhead. The GSW is a departure from the air cooled. I just thought BMW came up with it just to comply with emission standards and that it wouldn't be anything better than the camhead. Not so. It was planted and easy to ride, the torque kicks in right past idle. My advice is to not pour over all the little details and minutia of the bike (there are a lot of mode switch buttons and such). Just ride it with no preconceived notions about what you think it should be and have a good time. As usual, ymmv. Good luck, also, with your current bike.

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Old 04-28-2013, 06:45 PM   #8695
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Ive got 1300 miles now. so far the only complaint I have is a sticky horn. yesterday I honked at a cage to get her a$$ in gear and the horn, not the button, stuck on. I wonder if something is up from the first service reflash.

Its not too bad, the same reflash made the grip heaters warmer
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Old 04-28-2013, 07:02 PM   #8696
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madefrtv View Post
Ive got 1300 miles now. so far the only complaint I have is a sticky horn. yesterday I honked at a cage to get her a$$ in gear and the horn, not the button, stuck on. I wonder if something is up from the first service reflash.

Its not too bad, the same reflash made the grip heaters warmer

My heated grips are not as warm as I would like. What is the software supposed to address?

When I picked mine up on 4/19 the dealer flashed the software to get the Enduro Pro mode working. I think I should have the latest software unless the Enduro Pro was a separate module. They also said they had to flash the ESA module after the Enduro Pro.
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Old 04-28-2013, 07:29 PM   #8697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hammick View Post
My heated grips are not as warm as I would like. What is the software supposed to address?

When I picked mine up on 4/19 the dealer flashed the software to get the Enduro Pro mode working. I think I should have the latest software unless the Enduro Pro was a separate module. They also said they had to flash the ESA module after the Enduro Pro.
I don't know the details of the flash, I just noticed that my grips were more suitable than they were prior to the service trip. It was the reflash that encouraged me to cough up for the first service at the dealer instead of my usual DIY.

Has anyone else experienced a sticky horn? This event made me look much angrier than I really am.
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Old 04-28-2013, 10:46 PM   #8698
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Ignition

I was on a ride yesterday and turned off the bike with kill switch. I forgot to turn the key to the off position, and pulled the whole key cylinder out. I was able to put it right back in and it worked normally. It pulls right out easily in the on position. Can you guys with 2013 GS LC check this, and let me know results?
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Old 04-29-2013, 01:35 AM   #8699
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Quote:
Originally Posted by antwerp View Post
Maybe a clutch problem.
With a cold engine, and my clutch lever in the position N°1 (shortest distance from the handlebar) I can't get the bike into gear.
Also, when I engage the clutch lever, 50% of the distance I pull the lever, I have no pressure at all
As I put the lever in position N°2, I can put the bike in gear, but have a real short distance/space for changing gear, and hear this metal clunk as well.

Was at my dealer yesterday, and he asked me to bring the bike in this week, for a check up.

Will keep you informed.
I know the 'problem'. When it is cold and I start my bike in first gear is gets a little push forward. And it also has a tendancy to jump ahead a little when shifting it in 1st gear.
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Old 04-29-2013, 01:40 AM   #8700
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IB1 View Post
I know the 'problem'. When it is cold and I start my bike in first gear is gets a little push forward. And it also has a tendancy to jump ahead a little when shifting it in 1st gear.
Not really a problem. Every wet clutch shared transmission bike I have ever owned thunks into first and lurches a bit.
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