THE BIGWHEEL THREAD!!! Yamaha BW350, BW200

[Mr. BigWheel]

This is one other wheel that I've considered and discarded as a candidate, only to examine it again:

http://www.turftractor.com/m8/ITP%20...d-t114115.html

It's a 10 x 10 with 5+5 offset. It's the only wheel that ITP makes with a 0 offset. It is aluminum, and most importantly, it is very shiny. Or black, if you are so disposed.

If ITP hadn't scalloped out the parts between the stud holes, then this would be a homerun. However, now we have to determine if there is enough material remaining to support redrilling.

I contacted ITP through their website and they said that they have no drawings to determine what the minimum inner dimension of the center hole is. The sprocket flange is 102mm. The stud spacing on the ITP is 110mm or 115mm.

What do you think?

Regards,

Mr. BigWheel

[Shercoman]

Originally Posted by Mr. BigWheel

This is one other wheel that I've considered and discarded as a candidate, only to examine it again:

http://www.turftractor.com/m8/ITP%20...d-t114115.html

It's a 10 x 10 with 5+5 offset. It's the only wheel that ITP makes with a 0 offset. It is aluminum, and most importantly, it is very shiny. Or black, if you are so disposed.

If ITP hadn't scalloped out the parts between the stud holes, then this would be a homerun. However, now we have to determine if there is enough material remaining to support redrilling.

I contacted ITP through their website and they said that they have no drawings to determine what the minimum inner dimension of the center hole is. The sprocket flange is 102mm. The stud spacing on the ITP is 110mm or 115mm.

What do you think?

Regards,

Mr. BigWheel

This looks very possible.
The scallops would allow the sprocket hub to fit through the hole. That is good.
My questions would be:
1. What is the bolt pattern on the stock BW wheel? Since this wheel has no offset, You would not be taking up space with an adaptor.
2. So you have to redrill the wheel as you ask if there is enough material or:
3. Redrill the hub. If we are going to redrill the hub,then we need to know the outer diameter of the wheel mounting flange on the hub to know if there is enough steel to drill a new pattern.
I cannot answer these questions without taking my bike apart.
Do you have spare parts you can measure?

If this will not work we could simply make a 1/4 thick steel adaptor plate to adapt the new and old bolt patterns at 90 degrees to each other. The wheel would be slightly offset but I don't think that's a problem on a low speed dirt bike.

[Canuman]

For those in New England that have the fat tire dirt bike disease, this just popped up on Craig's this morning:

http://burlington.craigslist.org/mcy/2806860453.html

Not mine, I know nothing about it.

[Mr. BigWheel]

That's a clean looking machine. But if you think that BW parts are hard to find, the FatCat's were apparently gold plated. Thankfully, my particular strain of fat-tire affliction makes me susceptible to the Yamahas.

Shercoman,

I just so happen to have an axle that I can take measurements off of. As soon as I can summon the courage to battle the 40 knot winds that are blowing, I'll go outside to get them.

Regards,

Mr. BigWheel

[Canuman]

Originally Posted by Mr. BigWheel

That's a clean looking machine. But if you think that BW parts are hard to find, the FatCat's were apparently gold plated. Thankfully, my particular strain of fat-tire affliction makes me susceptible to the Yamahas.

Shercoman,

I just so happen to have an axle that I can take measurements off of. As soon as I can summon the courage to battle the 40 knot winds that are blowing, I'll go outside to get them.

Regards,

Mr. BigWheel

There are a surprising number of big wheels of both brands popping out of the woodwork recently here in the northeast. I saw a very nice Yamaha by the side of the road this fall for reasonable money, and know the location of another. This is because the nature of the area has changed. When I was a kid, it was rare anyone would be hassled for riding a dirt bike on the many class-four roads. Friends have been hassled recently by the Fish Cops for riding plated, inspected machines and not having "appropriate mirrors." (Riding with folding mirrors folded in.)

ATV organizations haven't been particularly welcoming to trail bikes. While one could ride these things practically anywhere, there are fewer and fewer places to go.

[Canuman]

Little one in NH:

http://nh.craigslist.org/mcy/2810739112.html

[Happy Seal]

Originally Posted by Canuman

Little one in NH:

http://nh.craigslist.org/mcy/2810739112.html

is that physically too big for a 10 YO?

[The Letter J]

Originally Posted by Mr. BigWheel

http://tiresunlimited.com/ALL%20TIRE...bel_wheels.htm

This is one wheel that I've been considering. It is the 10 x 9, so it is the same width as the stocker. Most importantly though, is that is shiny. Very shiny.

It is the lightest weight Douglas rim for light to medium duty (and cheapest, coincidentally). The fly in the ointment is the offset that would require a 3 inch spacer. That would be a grand chunk of metal.

Regards,

Mr. BigWheel

Many years ago I contacted Douglas wheel directly and had them make me a 10x6 front wheel (centered) for my atc110. They said that they had never made one before but it would be no problem. It cost the same as any of their production wheels, but I had to wait about a month for them to make it. I skimped and ordered the blue label (light weight) because I was a poor 12 year old buying parts with lawn mowing money and I ended up putting a big flat spot in it (big enough to lose air) after dropping off a dune. I was able to pound it back out with a rubber mallet, but I should have just spent the extra $15-$20 on a red label wheel.

Moral of the story: call douglas wheel 760-758-5560 and cutom order what you need, but do ORDER THE HEAVY DUTY!

[Cliff h]

Totally "Borrowed" from another site, but pretty fun just the same:

Well the only one I found in my stash is the BW350. Here are a few pics of it.

[Mr. BigWheel]

Cliff,

I love that article. Those riding pants Mike Webb was rocking are the same ones I wear to yoga class and the Star Trek conventions.

The Letter J,

Thank you for that heads up about Douglas. I've gone through their entire catalog and have found nothing suitable. I sent them an email about building a wheel for the BW in a size other than 9"

Shercoman,

Mrs. BigWheel was stuck in Seattle due to the Snow Storm of the Century but at least she left me with sick kids, an untrained puppy and fresh hardwood floors.

In other words, that's my excuse for being so slow with the measurements. I'll have them out momentarily.

Regards,

Mr. BigWheel

[The Letter J]

This just popped up on CL for $600: http://santabarbara.craigslist.org/mcy/2812822088.html

[Shercoman]

That's a smokin' deal on what looks like a pretty nice bike.

[Cliff h]

I need to adjust the primary chain on my Bigwheel 350. I haven't looked too closely at it, but any help (pictures would be great!) or advise would be appreciated. The chain has a bunch of slop and needs to be done. Thanks in advance.

Cliff

[Mr. BigWheel]

Cliff,

This is a video by Sixpepper22. Unfortunately, it is about adjusting the primary on the BW200. The 350 is very similar, in fact a little easier because the two adjusters are linked together by a stamped steel handle. The video will probably show enough that you won't be doing any guessing. Hopefully, your eccentric bushings have gotten some attention over the years and are not seized to the swingarm shaft.



Sixpepper is the real Mr. BigWheel. He runs the Yahoo group on the BWs and has done more to spread the word about the BW dementia than anyone out there.



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Regards,

Mr. Faux BigWheel

[Cliff h]

Mr. Faux Bigwheel,
I tried to adjust the chain as noted in the video (except using the "lever" instead of the spanner wrench). Unfortunantly, my bushings apparantly have not been previously lubricated. I tweaked the adjustment lever slightly before trying to lubricate the bushings externally (1st with WD-40, then PB Blaster) and I spun the swingarm bolt with an air impact trying to free everything up. Nothing yet. I can move the adjuster ever so slightly from the #1 to the #2 position, but that is all. I belive that my chain is so streched that I might be able to remove a chain link and get back into adjustment. I will not remove the link until I have succeded (hopefully) in un-sticking the adjuster and adjusting as far as allowed by the adjuster.
How does one lubricate the bushings properly? Need the swingarm bolt be removed?? As always, any help is very appreciated.

Cliff