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Old 02-03-2011, 07:49 AM   #1
Rapid Dog OP
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Question Race Tech Gold Valves in an '81 R100?

Race Tech site only shows R100s '87-'95. Anyone know anything about this.
Yes, I have contacted them by e-mail.
That said, any insight on what/wher/how would be great.
I have my forks apart, want to get this done ASAP.

These are the Brembo brake forks as shown:

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Old 02-03-2011, 08:10 AM   #2
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They'll use the same ones that went into my R80G/S. Have to do a search for that thread cause I don't recall which ones.

Searching on emulator brought up a page at least. The ones to use are # FEGVS3301.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...light=emulator
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Old 02-03-2011, 08:51 AM   #3
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I'm coming up with FEGV S4101 ... not sure that's right.
This bike has the rods but there are no internal springs or ball valves...
I also have a request into Mr Matt Wiley...
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Old 02-03-2011, 09:29 AM   #4
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Can't offer much specific advice, but I had them install gold valves in my R100GS - largely because they couldn't tell me what was the best solution and they gave me a discount for "R&D". If you're close, it might be worth asking about - in the end, because I bought springs too, it came to roughly the same price as parts alone.
One note I'll make is some people have it that you need to drill the damper rod on the GS to allow proper oil flow. Race Tech insisted this was not needed.
One more note - they made a big difference and are well worth it.
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Old 02-03-2011, 09:40 AM   #5
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I put the gold valves in my 82 RS and they made a big difference. I needed to make an adaptor/spacer for the gold valve to sit on top of the damper rod and drill two more oil flow holes at the bottom of the damper rod. Then played around with preload spacers and oil weight. Sorry I didn't take any pictures of the mods as it took numerous dissaembles to get everything right. Your forks look the same except for the top out spring in mine.
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Old 02-03-2011, 10:55 AM   #6
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I think they work great and sometimes wonder why I don't have them in my own bike. I have always told myself that I would do it to a set of Showa's for their teflon bushings and WAY less stiction to fight but I recently decided that their chrome is just absolute crap. So I am back at the German forks since I like the Italian ones even less than the Showa's for the same reason and more.

They are a pain to setup and even more of a pain to fine tune but they work. Personally, its the only way I could get enough rebound without too much compression. I have have got the stock springs dialed in with more preload and I know I want a lot more rebound and a lot less compression. That's going to take some valves or other mods like Lindeman Engineering does.
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Old 02-03-2011, 11:28 AM   #7
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I bought some freshly rebuilt forks from another inmate recently that had Gold Valve Emulators and progresive springs installed.

I needed to go in and do a little touching up on the damper rod compression holes and run down an answer to a caveat on the Racetech site about not using OEM nor Progressive springs with my emulator. And no instructions on hand.

I spoke with Louie Martinez in Tech Support and within 5 minutes had all my questions answered and a copy of installaion instructions in my email inbox. That's good support!

The instructions I got are for the FEGV S3301 emulator, so I guess that's what I have in the R80 ST forks. They cover several situations, depending on exactly what your damper assembly and springs are like. Quite clearly, too.

The instructions have good diagrams and detailed procedures. If you haven't already bought the emulators and have no instructions, the RT website has a very similar .pdf document listed as "Fitment Requirements".

Fitment Requirements.pdf answered all my questions except about spring choices because I misread the part requiring 4mm between the spring ID and the Valve Cover Plate - I mistook the OD of the blowoff washer for the Valve Cover Plate which in reality is equal to the ID of the blowoff washer on mine. The instructions show this more clearly and Louie reassured me I would be fine in my case with the Progressive springs.

I can't wait to get the forks back together and try them out - should have been done already, but scope creep leads to cleaning and detailing pieces while everything is apart and clean.

My fork internals are pretty similar to yours, except for the top-out spring at the very bottom of the damper being different in length and a slightly different plate at the bottom of that spring. (It appears BMW switched from the rubber bump stop to the second spring on the ST forks around 11/84 IIRC).

One tip if you do your own installation - when drilling out the compression holes and additional holes use a center drill in a good rigid drill press or a milling machine if you have access. If you're not familiar with center drills, they are short bits that are very rigid (thus short) with a tiny pilot point on the end, and then taper up to the bit size. My #3 center drill is the 1/4" my holes needed to be. Cutting fluid helps too because aluminum likes to stick to drill bit flutes.
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Old 02-03-2011, 11:36 AM   #8
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PM'd and e-mail'd ya Mark.
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Old 02-03-2011, 04:25 PM   #9
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...no answers from race tech or mr. wiley

can anyone confirm FEGV S4101 or FEGV S3301 emulator?
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Old 02-03-2011, 05:25 PM   #10
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PMs been a flyin'.

I think my head is empty now. I rechecked all the R80/R100 listings and didn't come across the S4101, just the S3301 that I'm betting on and the S3501 and S3801, which I think are larger diameter forks. I think.

Anyway, I've always had better luck getting returned phone calls than returned emails from most companies. Plus you can think of last minte questions while on the phone. I was really happy with Louie's advice.

Hang in there, it'll be worth the effort even if it takes a little longer to get it sorted out.
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Old 02-08-2011, 10:25 AM   #11
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...just off the phone with Louie, he said FEGV S3301 emulators plus FPEV AD3301 for the adapters.
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Old 02-08-2011, 11:20 AM   #12
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Thumb

,,,now off the phone with Matt Wikley at Race Tech. He confirmed the FEGV SS3301 GV and said you can use a 15mm 3/4" PVC spacer on this particular GV instead of the adapter.
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