The thing I hate most adjusting on my Airhead is.... - Page 2

bgoodsoil · 02-12-2011, 09:19 PM

Put in my vote for the driveshaft boot.

The clips that hold on the airbox lid help a bit. They're bent at a funny angle that helps to slip it around. I always hold the back in with my left hand then guide the rest of the lip around with the airbox clip. The last few times I've done it were pretty easy thanks to that.

rediRrakaD · 02-12-2011, 09:25 PM

Drive shaftboot...
Remove lower shock bolt, raise swing arm up until it's perpendicular to the floor. Easy(er) install.

Getting that one starter bolt in or out NOW that's challenging

.
S.

Hawk Medicine · 02-12-2011, 09:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rediRrakaD

Drive shaftboot...
Remove lower shock bolt, raise swing arm up until it's perpendicular to the floor. Easy(er) install.

Getting that one starter bolt in or out NOW that's challenging

.
S.

If you think thats hard, have you tried to install or reinstall the top left diode board mount without removing the starter? I had to install one once on a 100+deg day, in a gravel parking lot in Moab Utah. OMG!

I did it but I'll tell you right now that it absolutely cannot be done! No friggin way!

rediRrakaD · 02-12-2011, 09:44 PM

Yup, that's a bitch

Tried it last Fall @6:30 A.M. in Red Bluff. It was cold and didn't go so good

.
S.

photomd · 02-13-2011, 05:50 AM

Driveshaft bolts at the tranny and the rubber boot are take the cake for me. The rest is pretty straight forward.

Caddy82rats · 02-13-2011, 05:56 AM

+ 1 on drive shaft boot

Beater · 02-13-2011, 06:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4ad

two words.....driveshaft boot

i feel sorry for the guy who had to do this at the factory!

+100000000000

Rucksta · 02-13-2011, 06:43 AM

+ another on the drive shaft boot

For clutch adjustment try grinding down a 13 mm ring spanner with a slight offset.
The 10mm from the tool kit makes a great companion.

I love the spoke idea.
More elegant that a broken hacksaw blade

For the final stage of boot installation I use a zip tie to secure the gearbox end before attempting a clamp.
It's like having an extra pair of tiny hands.
I'm going to try the airbox clips next time cause it's still not a get it right first time job for me.

Martian · 02-13-2011, 07:21 AM

When it comes to the swingarm to transmission boot installation, I put the boot on the swingarm and clamp it before sliding the swingarm into position. Then I use a one of those screwdriver like tools with the bent, pointy end that is used for removing hoses to slip the boot over the transmission. Trying to get the boot onto the swingarm while it is in place sucks!

fishkens · 02-13-2011, 07:24 AM

Hmmm, sounds like the best tip I've heard for this process.

Wirespokes · 02-13-2011, 08:46 AM

I don't know that I've ever noticed that big a difference getting the adjustment at egggzaktly 201mm. Have you? Normally if it's parallel to the back cover at mid stroke it's fine.

True, bleeding brakes are probably one of the most fiddly things but often, if it's close, I'll just ride it and the rest of the air comes out. If not, overnight with the lever to the grip does the trick.

One of the tougher jobs is getting the transmission shimming just right. It's closer to an art than a science.

As for the u-joint boot - I remember the first few times were a bitch! But anymore they slip right on. Guess they know I'm not playing games! I do it like Martian - but don't even remove the SA side of the boot since I move the engine forward in trans removal.

Beater · 02-13-2011, 08:49 AM

Got a new one. Removing the races from the steering head tube. Thank God Hardwaregrrl let me borrow her welder. Geez ... what a PITA.

P B G · 02-13-2011, 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beater

Got a new one. Removing the races from the steering head tube. Thank God Hardwaregrrl let me borrow her welder. Geez ... what a PITA.

The sad part is that there are atleast 3 different tools on the market that make this a job that takes just a couple minutes.

Airheads are all about the right tools, and little tricks.

Bigger Al · 02-13-2011, 09:33 AM

My least favorite is getting those teeny little clips on the master link of a new timing chain.

I've got fat fingers, and that job has driven me more nuts than anything else I can think of.

The use of a 90-degree flat screwdriver for the drive shaft boot is great. I have one that I bent years ago for some other task, and it makes getting to the back side of the boot a relative snap.

supershaft · 02-13-2011, 10:05 AM

I had to wait and read stuff to try to get some ideas. I think it might be getting the shifter fork bolts started in a four speed? Sometimes they go right in and sometimes they don't.

02-12-2011, 09:19 PM	#16
bgoodsoil Dare to be Stupid Joined: Jul 2008 Location: Atlanta, GA, USA Oddometer: 3,800	Put in my vote for the driveshaft boot. The clips that hold on the airbox lid help a bit. They're bent at a funny angle that helps to slip it around. I always hold the back in with my left hand then guide the rest of the lip around with the airbox clip. The last few times I've done it were pretty easy thanks to that. __________________ '85 BMW r80G/S--Another G/S on the road--Central America on a Shoestring--Nova Scotia on a Shoestring--Never Leave a Man's Behind Proud SmugMug User Support ADV: Don't give those cheap bums your discount code

02-12-2011, 09:25 PM	#17
rediRrakaD Whoopdie do Joined: Jan 2006 Location: Oaktown Oddometer: 440	Drive shaftboot... Remove lower shock bolt, raise swing arm up until it's perpendicular to the floor. Easy(er) install. Getting that one starter bolt in or out NOW that's challenging. S. __________________ RIFF RAFF Industrial Tiki Purveyor

02-12-2011, 09:44 PM	#19
rediRrakaD Whoopdie do Joined: Jan 2006 Location: Oaktown Oddometer: 440	Yup, that's a bitch Tried it last Fall @6:30 A.M. in Red Bluff. It was cold and didn't go so good. S. __________________ RIFF RAFF Industrial Tiki Purveyor

02-13-2011, 05:50 AM	#20
photomd Studly Adventurer Joined: Sep 2007 Location: The Land of Cotton (SC) Oddometer: 535	Driveshaft bolts at the tranny and the rubber boot are take the cake for me. The rest is pretty straight forward. __________________ 1979 V-1000SP 1988 R100RS 1996 R1100RSL 1998 CR250

02-13-2011, 06:43 AM	#23
Rucksta Chronic Noob Joined: Oct 2008 Location: Gold Coast Oddometer: 2,293	+ another on the drive shaft boot For clutch adjustment try grinding down a 13 mm ring spanner with a slight offset. The 10mm from the tool kit makes a great companion. I love the spoke idea. More elegant that a broken hacksaw blade For the final stage of boot installation I use a zip tie to secure the gearbox end before attempting a clamp. It's like having an extra pair of tiny hands. I'm going to try the airbox clips next time cause it's still not a get it right first time job for me. __________________ If the Earth is flat why are my tyres round?

02-13-2011, 05:56 AM	#21
Caddy82rats Beastly Adventurer Joined: Mar 2007 Location: South France Oddometer: 1,075	+ 1 on drive shaft boot

02-13-2011, 07:21 AM	#24
Martian Beastly Adventurer Joined: Sep 2007 Location: Elmdale, Kansas, USA Oddometer: 1,077	When it comes to the swingarm to transmission boot installation, I put the boot on the swingarm and clamp it before sliding the swingarm into position. Then I use a one of those screwdriver like tools with the bent, pointy end that is used for removing hoses to slip the boot over the transmission. Trying to get the boot onto the swingarm while it is in place sucks! __________________ Tom '93 R100R '02 F650GS sold) '93 R100GSPD(sold) http://frommars.smugmug.com

02-13-2011, 07:24 AM	#25
fishkens Further... Joined: Nov 2009 Location: Seattle, WA Oddometer: 5,146	Hmmm, sounds like the best tip I've heard for this process. __________________ Forging ahead, down a false trail.

02-13-2011, 08:46 AM	#26
Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous Joined: Jul 2002 Location: Jackson's Bottom Oregon Oddometer: 7,361	I don't know that I've ever noticed that big a difference getting the adjustment at egggzaktly 201mm. Have you? Normally if it's parallel to the back cover at mid stroke it's fine. True, bleeding brakes are probably one of the most fiddly things but often, if it's close, I'll just ride it and the rest of the air comes out. If not, overnight with the lever to the grip does the trick. One of the tougher jobs is getting the transmission shimming just right. It's closer to an art than a science. As for the u-joint boot - I remember the first few times were a bitch! But anymore they slip right on. Guess they know I'm not playing games! I do it like Martian - but don't even remove the SA side of the boot since I move the engine forward in trans removal. __________________ Wanted: Dead, smashed, crashed or trashed gauges BMW GAUGE REPAIRS - TACHSPEEDOCLOCKVOLT METER PODs & LIGHT BOARD*

02-13-2011, 08:49 AM	#27
Beater Scope Creep's Victim Joined: Sep 2009 Location: Decatur, GA, USA Oddometer: 2,214	Got a new one. Removing the races from the steering head tube. Thank God Hardwaregrrl let me borrow her welder. Geez ... what a PITA. __________________ Fred '85 R80RT G/Sified '91 R100GS Bumblebee Airhead Zen: Ride-Maintain-Repair-Ride On.

02-13-2011, 09:33 AM	#29
Bigger Al Still a stupid tire guy Joined: Oct 2004 Location: Auburn, CA Oddometer: 7,273	My least favorite is getting those teeny little clips on the master link of a new timing chain. I've got fat fingers, and that job has driven me more nuts than anything else I can think of. The use of a 90-degree flat screwdriver for the drive shaft boot is great. I have one that I bent years ago for some other task, and it makes getting to the back side of the boot a relative snap. __________________ "Nearly all men can stand adversity, but if you want to test a man's character, give him power." - Abraham Lincoln

02-13-2011, 10:05 AM	#30
supershaft because I can Joined: Sep 2010 Location: San Francisco Bay area Oddometer: 6,082	I had to wait and read stuff to try to get some ideas. I think it might be getting the shifter fork bolts started in a four speed? Sometimes they go right in and sometimes they don't.

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