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Old 02-14-2011, 07:18 PM   #46
Lornce
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I hate the wire retaining rings on pre-78 piston pins. I mean I hate those things. One of the joys of running Venolias is the elimination of that fat 2mm ring and the ease and simplicity of a 1mm ring.

With the single row timing chain it's pretty critical to get the link in the right spot. Just to the left of and below the crank gear when looking at the front of the motor is the only spot I've found where it can be fitted.
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Old 02-15-2011, 06:45 AM   #47
Rucksta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beemerguru View Post

Right valve cover..front nut next to the exhaust.
Remove the exhaust nut.
Still fiddly but at least there is now room to work.
Do the other side for good measure and renew the antisieze on both.
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Old 02-15-2011, 07:20 AM   #48
Lornce
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I don't really like adjusting points on airheads. Gimme a Dyna ignition on my /5,6 or 7 any day.


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Old 02-15-2011, 08:12 AM   #49
fishkens
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beemerguru View Post
Right valve cover..front nut next to the exhaust.

I've already switched to the special 10mm nut with the grooved wings for self seatingn so no washer/nut combination to fiddle with...

But I have soooo many little burns on the back of my hands for trying to get that %#%#$ nut on. It's either 20 seconds or 20 minutes.
So, dumb question: why are you doing this with a hot engine? What needs to be done under the valve cover while the engine is hot? Just curious.
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Old 02-15-2011, 05:35 PM   #50
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Was waiting for some one to catch that...fresh engine rebuild...always start the engine with covers off to watch for oil flow from the top of both rocker arms...then cover on and off for a break in ride. Not enough time for the engine to cool down...and I'm ready to ride the new machine ..like now


Currently building 4 engines...don't know why I never thought of dropping the exhaust nut ...duh
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Old 02-15-2011, 06:59 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by Beemerguru View Post
Was waiting for some one to catch that...fresh engine rebuild...always start the engine with covers off to watch for oil flow from the top of both rocker arms...then cover on and off for a break in ride. Not enough time for the engine to cool down...and I'm ready to ride the new machine ..like now


Currently building 4 engines...don't know why I never thought of dropping the exhaust nut ...duh
Ahhh, I was expecting a reasonable answer. Just didn't know what it would be.
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Old 02-15-2011, 08:15 PM   #52
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I don't understand why you would need to check that after a rebuild but there is more than one way to skin a cat.

I am thinking a lot goop on the cylinder base or maybe your wondering if you forgot to drill the front main bearing?

Personally, I blip my rebuilds for about thirty seconds and then get a LOAD on her by dropping it in gear and moving out!

Reminds me of when a was filling in for a mechanic just a while back. I was rolling out a R12GS that I just put back together after another mechanic had split the cases. The "head" mechanic said that I should start it up first on the bench to make sure it isn't leaking oil and make sure that it is running right. I told him that it would run just fine and that it wasn't going to leak oil. If it did on the bench it would have been a gusher! I rolled it outside. Started it up. Blipped the throttle for about 30 seconds and took off loading the motor like I always do to get those rings seated. Of course, I primed the oil pump before I even put the rods on for instant oil pressure on absolutely dry cylinders. The guy was real happy with it last I heard.

I was just thinking that I guess I could spin my rebuilds over just a while longer after I am getting oil squirting out of the crank's rod journals until oil starts coming out on the studs but I never thought to because there is really no reason that I can see. I usually spend enough time getting that area oil free so my sealant bonds.

supershaft screwed with this post 02-15-2011 at 08:28 PM
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Old 02-16-2011, 01:17 PM   #53
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All it takes is one instant of distraction at the wrong time..and the upper Timecert didn't go alll the way in and blocked the oil galley.

Just one of those lessons learned years ago so I always wait to see if oil flows like it should before I button it up.
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Old 02-16-2011, 03:09 PM   #54
Lornce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beemerguru View Post
All it takes is one instant of distraction at the wrong time..and the upper Timecert didn't go alll the way in and blocked the oil galley.

Just one of those lessons learned years ago so I always wait to see if oil flows like it should before I button it up.
Good to know there's guys like you out there who could be trusted to be conscientious with a customer's engine job.


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Old 02-16-2011, 03:34 PM   #55
supershaft
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Oh I know how bad things happen but I usually focus on doing it right to start with. Personally, I wouldn't use a Timecert there for a coil insert working better and then I would double check that situation BEFORE the bike goes together. That way you can start it with confidence and seat those rings! I mean if there ever was a problem it is all going to have to come back apart anyway either down to the stud or all the way back down to the front main bearing. I know it is easier said than done but doing it right in the first place lets you get on with more important battles like IMO breaking it in.
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Old 02-16-2011, 04:46 PM   #56
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I have only done it four times, but I dread replacing the pushrod tubes. I also dread the inconsistency of the pushrod tube seals. It seems to be hit or miss whether they will leak or not.
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Old 02-16-2011, 06:12 PM   #57
fishkens
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Originally Posted by dap spackled View Post
I have only done it four times, but I dread replacing the pushrod tubes.
Replacing push rod tubes? What goes wrong with the originals? Or is this swapping push rod tubes from bad cylinders to good? Regardless, it seems like it would take a lot of hammering.
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Old 02-16-2011, 06:34 PM   #58
supershaft
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They leak at the cylinder.
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Old 02-17-2011, 01:43 AM   #59
oz_airhead
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Battery in my /6. I need to pull it to check level every so often as you can't see level easily installed..

Standard slosh - the larger OEM type.


Is it just me..

?????

OZ.
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Old 02-17-2011, 01:56 AM   #60
MIOB
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I have done a number of those jobs on my BMW, but yesterday all I had to do on my CB750 is drop the needles one notch. Hell, pure hell. I love my BMW.
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