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Old 02-26-2011, 04:20 PM   #136
hardwaregrrl OP
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Thanks Kirk!!! I think I have a harmonic balancer, if not I think I'll just fab one. Thx!!! Just couldn't get the image in my head....


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Or a Harmonic balancer puller you can get at most auto parts stores. might work.

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Old 02-26-2011, 04:55 PM   #137
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If you use the Harmonic balancer puller, alignment is critical, make sure your square with the crankshaft. I normally put the nut back on the crank about 2/3 of the way (Like a cup for it to sit in) to help center the puller drive bolt. Once you get considerable amount of pressure on the puller smack the drive bolt sharply (Once) with a hammer, then tighten it more, The flywheel should pop off.
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Old 02-26-2011, 08:18 PM   #138
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Getting the forks apart

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Nope, still cannot get them apart. it's a long, boring story, but it just doesn't seems possible anymore. The hole at the top of the damper rod is a narrower opening than the damper rod itself. So, once you get your wooden dowel past the opening, it really doesn't hold the damper rod very well.

The seals are no longer their former self. Honestly, it is impossible to take them out wholey. They will have to come out peice by piece. So at this point, I think it's useless to blow them out. Oh well....

Don't despair or give up yet on the forks; you just missed a key step on loosening the lower allen bolt.

You don't need any fancy damper rod holding tools. Go back to page 1, and see how you have the bike tied down tight to your trailer. This is how you will compress the fork and keep the damper rod tight while you loosen the alllen bolt on the bottom of the slider. No need for any jury rigged unsafe set ups, just put it back together enough to get it back on the trailer, and get the forks fully compressed.

Most bolts will loosen right up, but if yours is still stubborn, it may have been loc-tighted in from the factory. Suzuki was plenty corporate paranoid during this period when the front end came apart on Roger DeCoster's works bike at one of the early Supercross events. If necessary, heat up the lower bolt itself to melt off the loc-tite. You must have the fork oil drained out, or it will absorb all of the heat.

Once you get the sliders apart, a tire iron will make short work of getting the fork seals out. You will need to smooth out and fill in the nicks or your new seals will be destroyed in short order. When you re-assemble the forks don't forget to use the trailer tie down trick in reverse to do the final tightening on your lower slider bolts.

Good luck!
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Old 02-26-2011, 09:04 PM   #139
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Originally Posted by savetosave View Post
Don't despair or give up yet on the forks; you just missed a key step on loosening the lower allen bolt.

You don't need any fancy damper rod holding tools. Go back to page 1, and see how you have the bike tied down tight to your trailer. This is how you will compress the fork and keep the damper rod tight while you loosen the alllen bolt on the bottom of the slider. No need for any jury rigged unsafe set ups, just put it back together enough to get it back on the trailer, and get the forks fully compressed.

Most bolts will loosen right up, but if yours is still stubborn, it may have been loc-tighted in from the factory. Suzuki was plenty corporate paranoid during this period when the front end came apart on Roger DeCoster's works bike at one of the early Supercross events. If necessary, heat up the lower bolt itself to melt off the loc-tite. You must have the fork oil drained out, or it will absorb all of the heat.

Once you get the sliders apart, a tire iron will make short work of getting the fork seals out. You will need to smooth out and fill in the nicks or your new seals will be destroyed in short order. When you re-assemble the forks don't forget to use the trailer tie down trick in reverse to do the final tightening on your lower slider bolts.

Good luck!
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Old 02-27-2011, 12:43 AM   #140
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I take that back I'd still put the forks back on and ride the fooker the exercise makes the old seals more willing to be extracted.
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Old 02-27-2011, 07:15 AM   #141
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Ahhhh.....I gave up and left them with MSP. I had spent at least 10 hours on trying to disassemble them and had spent too much money on buying things to take them apart, and I really just wanted to wrap them around a pole. I'll let someone else do the dirty work....
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Old 02-27-2011, 08:24 AM   #142
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Ahhhh.....I gave up and left them with MSP. I had spent at least 10 hours on trying to disassemble them and had spent too much money on buying things to take them apart, and I really just wanted to wrap them around a pole. I'll let someone else do the dirty work....
Theres wisdom in there
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Old 02-27-2011, 09:11 AM   #143
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I actually attempted that before I brought the bike in my house. I knew it was going to be a pain, and I knew while I waited for parts I would be removing the forks and replacing seals. I've taken my forks on the ST apart 5 or 6 times and they were a bear the first time. But nothing like this....


Quote:
Originally Posted by savetosave View Post
Don't despair or give up yet on the forks; you just missed a key step on loosening the lower allen bolt.

You don't need any fancy damper rod holding tools. Go back to page 1, and see how you have the bike tied down tight to your trailer. This is how you will compress the fork and keep the damper rod tight while you loosen the alllen bolt on the bottom of the slider. No need for any jury rigged unsafe set ups, just put it back together enough to get it back on the trailer, and get the forks fully compressed.

Most bolts will loosen right up, but if yours is still stubborn, it may have been loc-tighted in from the factory. Suzuki was plenty corporate paranoid during this period when the front end came apart on Roger DeCoster's works bike at one of the early Supercross events. If necessary, heat up the lower bolt itself to melt off the loc-tite. You must have the fork oil drained out, or it will absorb all of the heat.

Once you get the sliders apart, a tire iron will make short work of getting the fork seals out. You will need to smooth out and fill in the nicks or your new seals will be destroyed in short order. When you re-assemble the forks don't forget to use the trailer tie down trick in reverse to do the final tightening on your lower slider bolts.

Good luck!
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Old 02-27-2011, 09:28 AM   #144
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Theres wisdom in there





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Old 02-28-2011, 06:09 PM   #145
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Hmmm...

Not a very satisfying day. I began running errands as I am still one seal shy. Had a little car duty to attend to. I had replaced the rotors and forgotten to put the push nuts back on so they were squeaking really bad. In the process of removing the tire, a lug bolt snapped. I finished the job, and will worry about the bolt later, back to the bike....

New sprockets....






Getting the real wheel off was quite a challenge. I don't think that axel had seen grease since 1980 Seriously, I bent the shit out of my drift trying to drive the axel out. A lot of heat and Candian WD40, 20 mins later she was out. I checked the bearings best I could, cleaned up the axel and greased everything really good. I can now spin the wheel and it will keep spinning for a good 5 to 10 mins!!!! No longer am I worried about the bearings.

I am worried about reassembling this motor alone. I was hoping to get some help but things just got in the way, so I'm gonna push forward with it.

Having problems with removing the flywheel. I didn't have a harmonic balancer, so I made a puller.



Looked good...



But alas...



I bent the shit out of it, and now it's a useless piece of crap....bummer. Gonna see if I can borrow a balancer from my local auto shop and remove it in their parking lot, or run to MSP and beg to borrow theirs. Not sure yet. All I want is to replace that crank seal back there, dammit!! Had some airhead problems today to tend to as well, got them buttoned up so no worries there. Hoping tomorrow I can get close to firing it up. Motor back together and in frame, bleed oil pump, put exhaust back on, replace fork seals and put them back, I don't think I'll even get that far. Wish me luck...

Parting shot for the day...

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Old 02-28-2011, 06:23 PM   #146
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Hey, this guy stole your old front sprocket!




I'm trying to track down a fiche on that flywheel. Maybe if we see how it goes together we can figure out a way to get it off.

edit: is this that part? It's saying it's the magneto.

http://www.bikebandit.com/1981-suzuk...6796#sch265459
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bgoodsoil screwed with this post 02-28-2011 at 06:32 PM
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Old 02-28-2011, 06:35 PM   #147
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Yeah, it's number 10 on the fiche. I'll get it off tomorrow if it kills me.
which it probably will...




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Hey, this guy stole your old front sprocket!




I'm trying to track down a fiche on that flywheel. Maybe if we see how it goes together we can figure out a way to get it off.

edit: is this that part? It's saying it's the magneto.

http://www.bikebandit.com/1981-suzuk...6796#sch265459
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Old 02-28-2011, 06:41 PM   #148
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that bolt on your redneck puller (awesome, btw ) looks kinda big. Are the threads on the bolt catching the edge of the magneto at all? Maybe it's kinda pushing against itself? I'm sure you'd have checked that but it's all I can think of. You could put some tension on it and leave it overnight. Who knows, you might wake up tomorrow and find that it popped off during the night.
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Old 02-28-2011, 07:00 PM   #149
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KRULL! Oh my god. What an obscure reference.

Good movie, though

Jenna good work on the bike, and making the puller is half the fun. You now know it just needs to be a little stouter. A little thicker through the dimension that it bent across.

I am sympathizing heavily, but if its any consolation the pics are really well lit
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Old 02-28-2011, 08:08 PM   #150
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Could be misremembering, but I think AutoZone loans out tools - like maybe a h-balancer puller?
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