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Old 02-19-2011, 08:15 PM   #16
fishkens
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Quote:
Originally Posted by One Less Harley View Post
Maybe I should give the crimp a couple more whacks with a hammer. I've noticed on a couple of the leaking switches that the plastic body rotates in the Al housing. Might be worth a shot, might tighten up the o-ring seal in the body. I'll take one of the bad ones apart to see how it's put together.
I heart science. There's got to be a solution. Maybe.

There's a switch encapsulated in some plasticy stuff that is supposed to seal against the housing. Grind out the existing plastic and replace it with a wonder substance that withstands heat and vibration.

I have a dream that you'll solve this conundrum.
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Old 02-19-2011, 09:40 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishkens View Post
I heart science. There's got to be a solution. Maybe.

There's a switch encapsulated in some plasticy stuff that is supposed to seal against the housing. Grind out the existing plastic and replace it with a wonder substance that withstands heat and vibration.

I have a dream that you'll solve this conundrum.
DOnt even grind it. Epoxy the entire outside, or dip it in tool dip or something (minus the leads, of course) It doesnt leak through the threads but through the thing itself right?
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Old 02-19-2011, 09:47 PM   #18
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DOnt even grind it. Epoxy the entire outside, or dip it in tool dip or something (minus the leads, of course) It doesnt leak through the threads but through the thing itself right?
Right. So the question is how to seal the inside of the housing that screws into the tranny and the leads, etc. coming out of the center of that housing. There's got to be a solution to this problem.
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Old 02-20-2011, 05:58 AM   #19
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It is just a simple on/off switch after all. Perhaps someone could machine a plug with a seal for a little shaft. Then mount a standard mini switch to that. Make it so it's possible to remove without pulling the trans or that cross tube.

After all that, it's gotta be super simple or it'd cost more than the original.
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Old 02-20-2011, 09:56 AM   #20
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here's a picture of the nasty beast.
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Old 02-20-2011, 10:07 AM   #21
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Nice dissection and pics.

Let's hope that the epoxy cap works.
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Old 02-20-2011, 10:08 AM   #22
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Has anyone tried epoxying a new one, BEFORE it gets oiled?
I'm only asking cuz I bought one last year and it's still in the bag.
The epoxy in the link looks pretty bullet proof. And yes, In my opinion that switch is poorly designed and could have fared much better with an o-ring.
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Old 02-20-2011, 10:14 AM   #23
fishkens
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The crazy thing is that the oil pressure sender seems to do fine and it's under 15 - 78 psi all the time. Granted, it's a different design but the neutral switch never sees that kind of pressure.
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Old 02-20-2011, 10:27 AM   #24
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The problem with epoxy is that the stuff I have used is not flexible and subject to cracking. We need something like adhesive oil proof silicone
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Old 02-20-2011, 11:14 AM   #25
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How about this

Do like OLHarley and cut the crimp off, then cut threads half way down the flats. Make a custom nut to hold the guts instead of the crimp. That way it would be rebuildable with a new o-ring once it starts leaking. And it might just be possible to assemble without removing the cross tube.

Good idea???
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Old 02-20-2011, 01:00 PM   #26
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You can replace them quite easy without pulling the transmission out Someone post a picture of one installed also showing the drain plug area on the motor and I'll write up a How To.
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Old 02-20-2011, 01:21 PM   #27
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You can replace them quite easy without pulling the transmission out Someone post a picture of one installed also showing the drain plug area on the motor and I'll write up a How To.
Don't have a photo right now, but I think we all know what that area looks like. Do tell
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Old 02-20-2011, 01:49 PM   #28
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I'll see if I can explain this so it makes some sort of sence.

1.Bike on the center stand.
2. with a small block of wood and a small jack support the back of the motor at the oil pan.
3. Remove the rear engine through bolt that goes through both sides of the frame.
4. When you look under the transmission and above the oil pan you will see an aluminum tube that the engine through bolt went through. With a small pry bar remove the tube.
This will allow you to get a wrench on the switch.
5. When you replace the switch make sure the thick aluminum spacer/washer is in good shape. As well as spacing the plunger in the switch it is also an oil seal.
6. Re-install the spacer. If it fights you going back in take a file and lightly bevel the edges on it. Once you get it back in fairly close you can use the engine through bolt to center it.
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Old 02-20-2011, 02:07 PM   #29
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+1 super easy to replace now. The key is getting a good bevel on the spacer so she goes home when you're tired

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmweuro View Post
I'll see if I can explain this so it makes some sort of sence.

1.Bike on the center stand.
2. with a small block of wood and a small jack support the back of the motor at the oil pan.
3. Remove the rear engine through bolt that goes through both sides of the frame.
4. When you look under the transmission and above the oil pan you will see an aluminum tube that the engine through bolt went through. With a small pry bar remove the tube.
This will allow you to get a wrench on the switch.
5. When you replace the switch make sure the thick aluminum spacer/washer is in good shape. As well as spacing the plunger in the switch it is also an oil seal.
6. Re-install the spacer. If it fights you going back in take a file and lightly bevel the edges on it. Once you get it back in fairly close you can use the engine through bolt to center it.
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Old 02-20-2011, 02:27 PM   #30
Harry Backer
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Mine still has the original one in it, but I broke off a tab puting the trany back in. So I should just leave it since it doesn't leak now?
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