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Old 02-20-2011, 02:34 PM   #31
The Raven
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Not bad. Easy to understand. Don't feel so bad about the switch replacement now

Onto the improvement idea;

I thought about this today; The switch needs to be threaded on the outside and set up like a plumbing pressure fitting. As you tighten the cap it holds the insides and compresses a rubber oil resistant washer.

Like this, but with proper case threads, an o-ring and the switch guts.
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Old 02-20-2011, 02:40 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Raven View Post
Not bad. Easy to understand. Don't feel so bad about the switch replacement now

Onto the improvement idea;

I thought about this today; The switch needs to be threaded on the outside and set up like a plumbing pressure fitting. As you tighten the cap it holds the insides and compresses a rubber oil resistant washer.

Like this, but with proper case threads, an o-ring and the switch guts.
Remember what's going on with this thing.
You've got pressure fluctuations from engine RPM's as well as viscosity changes due to outside temp and engine temp.
You've got an aluminum alloy cast engine case with an aluminum switch (basically a fastener).

Compare the alphas of the stack 'o' metals you'll have in this new monstrosity and see what happens when the case approaches 150-180F.
My guess is that this is what causes the plastic to eventually separate from the aluminum and allow leakage.

The damn thing should be completely aluminum and o-rings and preferably screw apart to change the o-rings.
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Old 02-20-2011, 03:45 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by datchew View Post
Remember what's going on with this thing.
You've got pressure fluctuations from engine RPM's as well as viscosity changes due to outside temp and engine temp.

Compare the alphas of the stack 'o' metals you'll have in this new monstrosity and see what happens when the case approaches 150-180F.
My guess is that this is what causes the plastic to eventually separate from the aluminum and allow leakage.
True. But millions of functioning oil pressure senders suggest that we have the technology, no?
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Old 02-20-2011, 04:45 PM   #34
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I pulled out the switch today, didn't need to brace the back of the engine. The spacer wasn't to hard to remove as it's been modified previously. The hardest thing (not really) is getting the 3/4" wrench in at the right angle. The Al housing can get a little deformed if not careful.

Like Datchew, said the heat probably screws w/ the nice tight fit of plastic to Al.

We'll see if the epoxy holds up. Today I've got three bikes all out of operation!!! The R1150RS, new battery last March purchased from Batteries Plus (never again), is dead. The G/S waiting for the epoxy to firm up some more before adding gear lube and dow corning additive. DRZ 400 awaiting two axle spacers, replaced bearings which were shot. I had those on hand, but not the spacers!!! Spacers were badly grooved. The bike has had a hard life.
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Old 02-20-2011, 04:51 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Raven View Post
The switch needs to be threaded on the outside and set up like a plumbing pressure fitting. As you tighten the cap it holds the insides and compresses a rubber oil resistant washer.
My thoughts exactly! Run some threads down the side of the old switch so a nut like that can hold the guts together. No need for crimp rings or any of that - just replace the original plastic washer (that sealed it in the first place) with a decent viton o-ring and be done with it!
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Old 02-20-2011, 05:04 PM   #36
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It might be possible to add an o-ring and do some machining on the flats and crimp the end again while keeping pressure on the plastic guts to get a better seal on the o-ring. Crimp it tight where it actually digs into the plastic and keeps it from turning.

It'd be fun to try if i had a lathe.........hum could chuck it into the drill press and cut the flats off that way. Maybe I'll try it, just don't have much time for that kind of thing right now with studying. Which I should be doing right now!!!
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Old 02-20-2011, 06:02 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by fishkens View Post
True. But millions of functioning oil pressure senders suggest that we have the technology, no?
2 words you used there: millions and functioning

Both make me think you're no longer talking about airhead neutral switches.
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Old 02-20-2011, 06:04 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by datchew View Post
2 words you used there: millions and functioning

Both make me think you're no longer talking about airhead neutral switches.
My first neutral switch stopped functioning and the plunger was indented from use....not leaking upon replacement

My second switch...1 year and not leaking. Makes me wonder.
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Old 02-20-2011, 06:21 PM   #39
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My neutral switches haven't leaked - yet. But the two I've had have been intermittent at best and non functional at worst.

I can live without one no problem. It would be nice not to pull in the clutch every time to start the motor. But not a big deal.
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Old 02-20-2011, 06:32 PM   #40
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My neutral switches haven't leaked - yet. But the two I've had have been intermittent at best and non functional at worst.

I can live without one no problem. It would be nice not to pull in the clutch every time to start the motor. But not a big deal.
You still have to pull in the clutch.....took care of that a long time ago!!


BTW- you know how hard it is to find a 12x1.5 bolt???? I can't seem to find one. For when the 'fixed" neutral switch pisses again.
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Old 02-20-2011, 07:33 PM   #41
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Here's the right size plug, nice and neat! It is what I will be installing instead of the new switch along side of it
BUT I can't remember where it came from. Maybe somewhere on an oil head? I know it's not the engine or trans drain or fill plug.
I just can't remember. It takes a 6mm allen if that's any help.

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Old 02-20-2011, 07:37 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wirewrkr View Post
Here's the right size plug, nice and neat! It is what I will be installing instead of the new switch along side of it
BUT I can't remember where it came from. Maybe somewhere on an oil head? I know it's not the engine or trans drain or fill plug.
I just can't remember. It takes a 6mm allen if that's any help.

Looks like a K100 or K75 final drive fill plug.
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Old 02-20-2011, 07:38 PM   #43
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2 words you used there: millions and functioning

Both make me think you're no longer talking about airhead neutral switches.
Correct you are. But how do millions of oil pressure senders hold back 80 psi while a few hundred (maybe a few thousand?) airhead neutral switches leak? It's got to be that our neutral switches fell off the caboose of the train of technology.
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Old 02-20-2011, 07:44 PM   #44
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I checked it w/ the tranny drain plug and the drain plug was barely larger.

That looks like my RRS sump drain plug. You sure the diameter is the same???? Because the RRS sump plug is the same size as the air injector plug for the heads of a G/S.
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Old 02-20-2011, 07:46 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by One Less Harley View Post
I checked it w/ the tranny drain plug and the drain plug was barely larger.

That looks like my RRS sump drain plug. You sure the diameter is the same???? Because the RRS sump plug is the same size as the air injector plug for the heads of a G/S.
Airhead air injector plugs same size as oilhead rear diff drain, maybe this is same size as that?
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