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Old 02-21-2011, 05:48 AM   #61
One Less Harley OP
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91-95 years only on the fill plug.
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Old 02-21-2011, 07:08 AM   #62
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OK.....this is what I found;

Option 1: Take a NEW non-oiled plug. With a dremmel grind down into the plastic around the crimp and also drill through the upper metal with a small drill. Roughen up the rest of the metal as well. Take JB weld and fill in EVERYTHING you just removed. This solution has worked for my source for at least 4 years so far

Option 2: Apparently a 2 valve 1996 Ducati neutral switch will fit at half the cost.
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Old 02-21-2011, 08:54 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wirespokes View Post
In cases like this I've visited the BMW car dealer. They must have one for a normal price - like say, two bucks.
If the parts is sold under the same part number, (and it usually is) the price is the same for car or motorcycle.
They share the same price book and pricing when the number is the same.
If the price is jacked up, it's the dealer doin the jackin.
In this case that's msrp
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Old 02-21-2011, 09:36 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wirewrkr View Post
If the parts is sold under the same part number, (and it usually is) the price is the same for car or motorcycle.
They share the same price book and pricing when the number is the same.
If the price is jacked up, it's the dealer doin the jackin.
In this case that's msrp
I was thinking of the plug, Robert, not the neutral switch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Raven
OK.....this is what I found;

Option 2: Apparently a 2 valve 1996 Ducati neutral switch will fit at half the cost.
Wonder if it lasts twice as long?
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Old 02-21-2011, 09:56 AM   #65
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The term for neutral switch in german is Leerlaufschalter. It came in quite handy
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Old 02-21-2011, 10:50 AM   #66
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I was thinking of the plug, Robert, not the neutral switch.
So was I.
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Old 10-25-2011, 09:30 AM   #67
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Well it's that time...neutral switch again, it was leaking of course and not working so i thought, it was really the light socket connection.

Here's the replacement from Motobins (about $20 USD) Hucky's has them for $30.

The new one is in brass, the old BMW is Al.



So I just dropped the bike on it's side, flipped the centerstand down, then pried out the previously beveled spacer, all this took about 5 minutes, most of that was looking for the 19 mm socket and a center punch (3/8" extension works best)to drift out the long engine mount bolt.



Tap the spacer back in and line up with the 3/8" extension..



Well that's all there is to it.
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Old 10-25-2011, 09:17 PM   #68
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So you layed it down to save the oil? That's the kinda cheapness I appreciate
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Old 10-26-2011, 04:32 AM   #69
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So you layed it down to save the oil? That's the kinda cheapness I appreciate
he cushioned it with autumn leaves at least.
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Old 10-26-2011, 07:12 AM   #70
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It's just plain easier to get to some things with the bike on it's side, no oil loss is the main reason. I'm running a special blend of oil in there to. Regular gear oil plus a few oz of Dow M Kote gear additive.

Hey Dat is that an open invitation in your sig?? How about gps coordinates!


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Old 10-26-2011, 10:40 AM   #71
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As long as you don't hydro lock when you hit the starter and bend a rod.
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Old 10-26-2011, 10:44 AM   #72
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As long as you don't hydro lock when you hit the starter and bend a rod.
How's that????
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Old 10-26-2011, 10:52 AM   #73
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Whenever a BMW is on it's side for very long, I pull a plug and crank it over to make sure that no oil leaked past the rings and got on top of the piston. More oil than combustion chamber volume will stop the piston in it's tracks and bend the rod. I have seen it happen a number of times in my days. Mostly on new Triumphs but airheads too.
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Old 10-26-2011, 10:58 AM   #74
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Oh I see. Made me wonder as sometimes the bike winds up on it's side on the trail, so a few minutes wouldn't be a problem. Just don't leave it there for long periods of time.
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Old 10-26-2011, 11:06 AM   #75
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I think it all depends on how the rings are lined up but who knows for sure? A couple of minutes is long enough for Triumph three cylinders that is for sure!
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