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Old 01-19-2005, 01:48 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meat popsicle
ah good you can blame any problems on the previous owner. so the PIAAs are bright, maybe they are zenon charged as well. - were they cheaper than the Hellas? $15 bucks is cheap for a fancy bulb; way better than the $100+ HID "capsules"...
Nope, not cheap, but then again I got them at the local BMW place $26.

I am sure you could get them for much cheaper on the web somewhere.

M
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Old 01-19-2005, 04:26 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PASSMORE
Nope, not cheap, but then again I got them at the local BMW place $26.

I am sure you could get them for much cheaper on the web somewhere.

M
- the hella ones might even be better than the PIAAs
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Old 01-19-2005, 04:41 PM   #18
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I would be really carefull with any of the higher wattage bulbs. Even in car applications, anything over 80 watts tends to smoke the backshells of the connectors at a minimum, and often frys the wires as well. I have not examined the wiring and circuits of the ADV, but I find it hard to believe that it is the same gauge, etc.

I used to run some higher wattage bulbs in my RZ350, let me tell you frying the wiring at 2:00am on a dark rainy night out in the boondocks in the middle of a sweeper is not fun. I ended up driving home with the both turn signals rigged to stay on, with the lens off..............

On the other hand using a relay, and running some heavier gauge wires off the battery should work well, as they ADV headlights seem pretty resistant to heat.

Just my unsolicited .02 Cheers, Mack
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Old 01-19-2005, 07:11 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mack
I would be really carefull with any of the higher wattage bulbs. Even in car applications, anything over 80 watts tends to smoke the backshells of the connectors at a minimum, and often frys the wires as well. I have not examined the wiring and circuits of the ADV, but I find it hard to believe that it is the same gauge, etc.

I used to run some higher wattage bulbs in my RZ350, let me tell you frying the wiring at 2:00am on a dark rainy night out in the boondocks in the middle of a sweeper is not fun. I ended up driving home with the both turn signals rigged to stay on, with the lens off..............

On the other hand using a relay, and running some heavier gauge wires off the battery should work well, as they ADV headlights seem pretty resistant to heat.

Just my unsolicited .02 Cheers, Mack
Good advice Mack, just wanted to point out that I was recommending 55W H1s that are Xenon charged and purported to put out and additional 30% with the same wattage... :free light? for $15 bucks a bulb its a cheap find.
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Old 01-19-2005, 07:30 PM   #20
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I have a H.I.D. kit on the low beam of my Duke II and it works quite niceley for me,and when you pull the little flash to pass switch the high beam comes on momentairly (non H.I.D.) along with the low beam. One question, when I first start the bike up and switch on the low beam the tach and tail lamp go dead for a few seconds while the H.I.D. warms up? Does anyone know if the ballest which I have wrapped in fome rubber mounted next to the tach draws more current during initial start up than a regular bulb? I was under the impression that H.I.D. was supposed to draw less than stock? It seems to tax the charging system initially but works fine after the bike runs for a few seconds with the H.I.D, on?
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Old 01-19-2005, 07:35 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by lvdukerider
I have a H.I.D. kit on the low beam of my Duke II and it works quite niceley for me,and when you pull the little flash to pass switch the high beam comes on momentairly (non H.I.D.) along with the low beam. One question, when I first start the bike up and switch on the low beam the tach and tail lamp go dead for a few seconds while the H.I.D. warms up? Does anyone know if the ballest which I have wrapped in fome rubber mounted next to the tach draws more current during initial start up than a regular bulb? I was under the impression that H.I.D. was supposed to draw less than stock? It seems to tax the charging system initially but works fine after the bike runs for a few seconds with the H.I.D, on?
I would love to see some photos of the install
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Old 01-19-2005, 07:43 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lvdukerider
Does anyone know if the ballest which I have wrapped in fome rubber mounted next to the tach draws more current during initial start up than a regular bulb?
yes. the hid bulb requires quite a bit of current to ignite. more than a halogen bulb. once it is running draw is much less though. most are 35 watts.

not sure the exact amount of current required to ignite... anyone?
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Old 01-19-2005, 07:45 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lvdukerider
I have a H.I.D. kit on the low beam of my Duke II and it works quite niceley for me,and when you pull the little flash to pass switch the high beam comes on momentairly (non H.I.D.) along with the low beam. One question, when I first start the bike up and switch on the low beam the tach and tail lamp go dead for a few seconds while the H.I.D. warms up? Does anyone know if the ballest which I have wrapped in fome rubber mounted next to the tach draws more current during initial start up than a regular bulb? I was under the impression that H.I.D. was supposed to draw less than stock? It seems to tax the charging system initially but works fine after the bike runs for a few seconds with the H.I.D, on?
Not sucking more wattage but it could be that your ballast may be too close to other electrical components causing distorting signals. How far away are your ballast/igniters to the tech display?
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Old 01-19-2005, 07:54 PM   #24
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thanks loaded thats kind of what I thought. Passmore sorry but I dont have a camera, however theres not much to it I bought the set up from Michael Friedel in Austria last year I think afew other members did as well, It looks like he shortened the burner (bulb) so that it would fit then the wire just runs to the ballest and the stock plug in for the standard headlamp just plugs into that, I just zip tied fome padding around the ballest for padding and wedged it into the Duke nose cone next to the tach it stays their just fine.
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Old 01-19-2005, 08:39 PM   #25
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James, I had heard that some bikes required a capacitor to get the HID's to light off. A lot of people have remarked that they won't turn on until they bring the rpms up.

As to running both lights at once, thats my preference because the low beam provides a great fill, which really helps when you lean the bike in turns. That attitude change during cornering, and the pitch change during hard acceleration and braking, especially on long travel bikes, makes the extra light a godsend IMHO. If I thought the 640 could handle it, I would just stuff two 80 watt bulbs in and run them all the time. Maybe my eyes are just getting old!
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Old 01-20-2005, 05:38 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mack
James, I had heard that some bikes required a capacitor to get the HID's to light off. A lot of people have remarked that they won't turn on until they bring the rpms up.
I've heard the same as well specifically in thumpers that are dual sported (kit).
My guess would be an insufficient stator needing a beefed up rewind and even some bikes that are factory DS may need the coil beefing, think XR400 and the likes..
If our 640's are lighting up the stock 55w effortlessly then I see no problem firing 35w.

I can see the dilema or head scrathing on this subject and I'm no expert on the matter by no means but as I understand it. The HID system requires the specific bulb to generate it's lighting from "lack of a better term" forced energy lighting, which is expounded on by the power supplied through the ballast. The ballast need the wattage to perform the duty and a underpowered source can delay light transfer to the HID bulbs.
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Old 01-20-2005, 06:02 AM   #27
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I read that HID lighting (xenon capsules) require a "Igniter" to light up and it used to be a separate unit. Maybe its built into the same housing as the ballast now? I just thought it needed some extra umph built up to "ignite" and that is what the "Igniter" did? Here is some more HID speak where the Igniter is a separate unit (The Hella webpages do not list a separate Igniter unit for their lamps but I have not looked at everything on them: http://www.hella.com/produktion/Hell...e_Lighting.jsp):

http://www.hitechimportlighting.com/bellofhid.htm
"Unlike a standard Halogen bulb that uses a filament, which operates on a 12-Volt, DC powered system; the HID capsule has no filament. The HID system produces an arc of light after the inverter and igniter units convert the DC 12 Volts into AC at 25 000 Volt. When high voltage is applied, the XENON gas and metallic salts are ignited to produce an arc of light. "

This is interestin' because if there is no filament then do they not wear out?

http://www.autobarn.net/piaa2182.html

"PIAA brings HID Technology to its popular 2100 XT series. Ultra low profile design allows for easy installation and a multitude of applications for today's sport car and truck enthusiasts. PIAA's new smaller ballast greatly enhances the price to performance ratio of HID technology. Check it out! Kit includes two lamps, two ballast and igniter sets, wiring harness, relay and switch.

2100 HID Features:

* HID Driving Light
* Bulb Type: 12V - H.I.D. 35watt
* Silver PPS composite housing, chrome plated trim ring, glass lens and multi surface reflector
* Kit includes two lamps, two ballast & igniter sets, wiring harness, relay and switch
* Part #2182"



I wonder what mystery part #2182 is...

So y'all that are putting in just a ballast, maybe you need an igniter as well?

This is interestin':

http://www.webbikeworld.com/lights/hid-light/
"SOL LAMP kits do not use the plastic connector design at the rear of the HID lamp for connection as do some of the so called "universal" styles that resellers refer to as "plug and play". These rear connector lamp styles do not provide the seal needed for keeping moisture out of the headlamp assembly."

Hmmmm... lots of info on the workings of HID up there; might be easier for some of you to interpret than me.

"In closing, the Phillips and Hella ballasts are good products but, they are designed for cars. They do not take into account battery capacity limitations of motorcycles and they are designed with connectors which are automotive oriented."

Also, check out this fella's webpages here: http://www.sollamps.com/
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meat popsicle screwed with this post 01-20-2005 at 06:09 AM
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Old 01-20-2005, 06:20 AM   #28
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A lil more info:

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/hid-m...ight/index.htm
"Note that a ballast is needed to start the HID light burning, because the light units typically need 30 amps or so at startup, which would overwhelm a motorcycle's electrical system if the lamp was started without a ballast. The ballast provides the increased electrical current at startup without higher amperage. This means that in most cases, the HID light and ballast system can work with the bike's existing fuse and wiring. HID lights take only 5 amps or so after the initial burn."

The kit tested:
http://www.xenondepot.com/product.php?product_id=33

MAN just dig around on this webbikeworld. Seems low budget and might be a whore but well I wouldn't know where to look for upgrade MC specific headlight wiring harnesses:

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/headl...ight-relay.htm

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Home/Main/main.html

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Old 01-20-2005, 06:44 AM   #29
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Up early huh Meat? well unfortunately HID bulbs do wear out and it's progressive so you will notice brightness fading. The better the bulb quality, the better the life and no Mr. Hung/Jung does not offer quality kits

Some companies still offer a separete ballast igniter combo, I guess there's pros & cons to both but essentially the better the system quality wise the better the chances of reaching premature problems.
Catz Japan made a beautifull kit using real Sylvania bulbs (not available in the U.S. anymore) some companies still offer quality kits offer the same but in reality are not real Sylvania's and if they're stamped Sylvania ylike Hella Germany and more than likely it's chaos to get unless your on eBay or working for BMW,Audi and some Japanese models.
Make sure you check orgin of product, ie: Taiwan, Indonesia. So much on this subject that it's never ending, anyway's I'll stop rambling..
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Old 01-20-2005, 07:22 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by boejangles
Up early huh Meat? well unfortunately HID bulbs do wear out and it's progressive so you will notice brightness fading. The better the bulb quality, the better the life and no Mr. Hung/Jung does not offer quality kits
almost every day; its my time, well until mini-meat arrives!

Quote:
Originally Posted by boejangles
Some companies still offer a separete ballast igniter combo, I guess there's pros & cons to both but essentially the better the system quality wise the better the chances of reaching premature problems.
Catz Japan made a beautifull kit using real Sylvania bulbs (not available in the U.S. anymore) some companies still offer quality kits offer the same but in reality are not real Sylvania's and if they're stamped Sylvania ylike Hella Germany and more than likely it's chaos to get unless your on eBay or working for BMW,Audi and some Japanese models.
Make sure you check orgin of product, ie: Taiwan, Indonesia. So much on this subject that it's never ending, anyway's I'll stop rambling..
Yeah, its all the rage eh? I am interested in the discussion from the SOL Lights makers regarding MC specific needs - I wonder if their kits are quality because they are cheap comparably. They also said that the car stuff will ask more of your MC electrical system that it has to offer. That would worry me. What is your system?
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