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Old 04-05-2011, 11:29 AM   #166
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Definately F!
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Old 04-05-2011, 12:00 PM   #167
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No.

Black bike gets black reflective.
I'd go for one wide stripe.

Also seal the ends of the reflective tape with clear nail polish to prevent delamination at the ends you cut.

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Old 04-05-2011, 12:03 PM   #168
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An experiment in FX...

As far as I can find, nobody makes a carbon fiber glove box. I've been reading all of ebrak's cool "build this, build that, with carbon!" threads and hoping to find the time some day to actually make my own using his techniques.. but my schedule isn't going to allow that any time soon.

My glove box lid is scratched to hell from tank bags, abuse, etc. and I've always wanted to try out that di-noc stuff....

I ended up selecting something different: fxcarbon. FXcarbon is a bit thicker and supposed to be a bit more durable for automotive applications. It also has an "air bleed" technology built in so you don't get bubbles unless you really muck it up (which I'd probably do ).

The glove box lid is probably one of the worst shapes you could chose to "learn" with. Compound curves.. etc.. I figured for sure it would take me a few attempts to get it covered so I bought several feet of the fxcarbon so I could screw it up a few times until I got good with it.

A $30 experiment.. I figured why not

Here's my old beat up glove box lid sitting on top of some fxcarbon


First step was to cut out a piece. I made sure to cut it oversize sufficiently so that it would have extra to wrap around curves as well as giving me some extra to pull on with my fingers while shaping it



Next I pealed off my old safety-third sticker and removed the Dzus fastener and gave the thing a good wipe down with isopropyl alcohol.



I tried to show the thickness of the fxcarbon in this photo as I pealed off the backing.. to describe it I'd say it is about the thickness of 35mm film. A bit thicker than 3m's di-noc.


Without giving it much thought (knowing I'd be mucking it up) I started sticking things on. The shape of the part was definitely going to be an issue and as I started I began to wonder if this would work on such a complex shape at all



...but it turns out the stuff has quite a bit of a flex to it and allows you to re-lift it a few times so that you can get it fairly flat with some work. The technique I used was to lift the sheet with my one hand while lightly rubbing with my index finger on my other hand.. moving along mm by mm. Not really stretching it much but more of a light pressing with my rubbing finger. Then if I got to somewhere that I really need to, I'd pull with the other fingers to make a stretch as necessary.



While going on remarkably well.. It was apparent that the real issue with this particular piece was going to be the apex multi-compound curve corners

No worries.. I'd resigned myself to the fact I'd likely be pealing this back off and I'd do it again with a sharp xacto for shaping. Notice on the bottom side of the photo below what looks like to be a looming nightmare of crinkles and bubbles...


But it turned out to be no big deal! Slowly and patiently... it actually started to conform and turn out quite nice just by re-lifting, slowly rubbing it and stretching it along. Here's the same edge a few minutes later...


I made a slice along the apex so I could overlap the film and get rid of the bubbles in the corner. I liken it to wrapping a present... it actually came together pretty good (If I had known it would turn out this good I'd have gone a bit slower and cut a bit straighter )



..before I knew it (about 20 minutes?) I was done and I'll be darned, it turned out better than I expected for my first try. In this first photo I specifically tried to get the light to catch the overlap seams to show where they are:




...and out in the sun:




Now here is the issue.

It came out a bit TOO good.. I don't know that I care enough about it to peal it all off and do it all over again and try and make it perfect

...I guess if I really cared, I'd peal it, do it again perfectly, and then clear coat it. Apparently the technique guys use if they want to make it look "real" is to clear coat it at the end because most carbon bodywork (including all the real stuff on my bike) is finished in a nice gel coat.

Now I gotta figure out if I wanna spend the time to do the rest of the glovebox's frame?


cheers,
Ed
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Old 04-05-2011, 03:48 PM   #169
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Well done Geek, I won't be far behind ya

Perferate it and do the tanks ?
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Old 04-05-2011, 03:51 PM   #170
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Originally Posted by Deadly99 View Post


Well done Geek, I won't be far behind ya

Perferate it and do the tanks ?
Y'know I hadn't thought about that.. but now that you mention it I wonder if this specific stuff would mount on a tank and actually breath?

If you take this stuff and stick it down around the edges and make an air bubble (on purpose) you can then just squeeze/press the bubble down and the stuff vents the air out.

I wonder if it'd work?

I might have to cut a piece and stick it on the tank an an experiment and see how it does...

Thanks for the idea!
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Old 04-05-2011, 07:25 PM   #171
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Looks good! Was it a pita to get it to lay out evenly/smoothly? Are you thinking about doing the side of the storage box, down to the tanks? It might look nice.
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Old 04-07-2011, 12:25 PM   #172
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Looking at the latest pic of my bike all blacked out.. I'm leaning towards getting rid of the sticker all together.



Anyone know how to get rid of this sticker?


It feels like it is practically molded into the thing...

That and I want to figure out how to get this tape off my pelican - the reflective stuff sticks on super well.. it might be impossible without marring the surface of the pelican (which is fairly soft too)


Suggestions?
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Old 04-07-2011, 01:16 PM   #173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geek View Post

Suggestions?
"EX" - Aircraft Mechanic ...

We used Naphtha to clean the Plexiglas cockpits of fighter jets. We used it to remove stickers from anything.

It melts the glue so you can wipe it off - but does not hurt the plastic or paint.

I've used it for years to remove sunbaked decals off windshields ... Any new car the first thing I do is remove ALL stickers ... Naphtha Works Great!



WIKI
Naphtha is used primarily as feedstock for producing high octane gasoline (via the catalytic reforming process). It is also used in the petrochemical industry for producing olefins in steam crackers and in the chemical industry for solvent (cleaning) applications. Common products made with it include lighter fluid, fuel for camp stoves, and some cleaning solvents.




Where can you get it?

Zippo Lighter Fluid for .99 cents

READ THE BOTTLE FIRST they have been replacing Naphtha the last few years with something else that does "not" work.
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Old 04-07-2011, 05:30 PM   #174
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Hairdryer to heat adhesive then WD-40 to remove residue? (if Naptha has been banned from the people's republic of Boulder :) )
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Old 04-07-2011, 06:19 PM   #175
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Originally Posted by jay71 View Post
(if Naptha has been banned from the people's republic of Boulder :) )
LOL ...


WD40 ... Petroleum Base Solvents ...


Add On ----> ... Patience + Time + Attrition
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Old 04-07-2011, 07:19 PM   #176
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I've used lighter fluid and wd40 in the past.. I don't think either is going to work for that reflective striping.

It chips off almost like paint... its not like a traditional sticker.

As for the "safari tanks" sticker - it doesn't even have an edge to hook.. almost like its molded in/embedded into the plastic

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Old 04-07-2011, 07:49 PM   #177
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Originally Posted by Geek View Post
I've used lighter fluid and wd40 in the past.. I don't think either is going to work for that reflective striping.

It chips off almost like paint... its not like a traditional sticker.

As for the "safari tanks" sticker - it doesn't even have an edge to hook.. almost like its molded in/embedded into the plastic

That's a problem!


Can you soak the sticker over night with something that wont draw the petroleum out of the case and cause it to milk over ???

Your bike project has inspired me to do the same. I am going to buy a dealer new 990 and swap the tank right off!

I've thought that I will hire a graphic sign company to make a custom emblem sticker (much like the identifying decals on the back of a car) then stick it over the Safari emblem. Might stick out to far ??? ... I need to see the tank in person

If it is part of the tank you could fine brush paint the lettering BLACK (maybe even high gloss like it was done that way from factory) BUT after a while you wont even see it anymore. And people looking at the bike for the first time wont either ... much

I'm curious to see how you pull this off ...
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Old 04-07-2011, 08:06 PM   #178
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Can you stretch some of that carbon effect material over the tank protection? Would probably require some cuts as it's a weird shape but it would cover that safari sticker. After seeing what you've done thus far I don't think you can have too much carbon on that steed.
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Old 04-07-2011, 08:18 PM   #179
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I did consider actually using the tank guards as a mold and pulling some real carbon bits off of them...

I need to be retired.. I don't have enough time
Where's that lotto ticket...
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Old 04-07-2011, 08:52 PM   #180
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The Safari "sticker"? Is it maybe just a smoother part of the tank guard with Safari just painted on it? Try a little carb or brake cleaner or some paint thinner and rub wipe it on and off real fast, don't let it soak because it will soften the plastic. You might try a little on the underneath edge of the tank guard to make sure it won't "eat it". The reflective tape will come off with a little heat from a heat gun or hair dryer, again not too much or it will melt your pelican. It will probably still come off in pieces but just bigger pieces.
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