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Old 04-17-2011, 03:12 AM   #196
Platypus-3in1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geek View Post
...and last but not least I decided to check out how the paint turned out on the bottom of my skid plate

Nothing to see here.. move along
I saw a picture that was complete ... What was it ... The Bike on its side and the Avatar with a man on his side ... It just worked

Nice combo Avatar and Bike Pic ...
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Old 04-17-2011, 04:10 AM   #197
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Looks like we're in the same boat, a serious trip to a powder coating shop......sub frame, rear brake lever, rear brake res cover, triple clamps, etc etc etc

Bike looks great Geek
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Old 05-05-2011, 01:53 PM   #198
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I've had heated grips on at least 20 of my bikes over the years and now I turn into a big baby when they don't work. Often here in the mountains the forecast for the day is 70+ degrees but it will be closer to 30 degrees at 5 or 6am when I'm departing.

My left grip went out no the 950 so I ordered another set and here's what I did to take advantage of my bad luck and turn it into some good luck (because of having the luxury of having two throttle grips available ) ..

I'm pretty pleased with how it turned out

For those who have never done electric grips before: Generally speaking, your throttle grip heats up faster because it is on a plastic tube and the heat is insulated. On the left bar, the heater sends the heat into the metal bar (which absorbs the heat) so your hand doesn't get the heat as efficiently.

The idea is to insulate the left bar from the heater. Usually I just throw a wrap of hockey tape or the like on the bar and call it good (and just accept my left hand is always colder).

One of the issues is that if you insulate the bar too thickly.. you can't get the grip on. If you've never looked, a throttle grip has a larger diameter hole in it because it goes over the throttle tube.

Throttle grip is the lower one - notice the hole diameter difference:


Here is the shrink wrap I found - and it is *perfect*.
It is 1.10" in diameter and it is adhesive lined Each piece is 6" long in this package.



Here you can see how thick it is


I don't know if it would be a good solution if you had a standard 7/8" diameter left grip - it could be a real chore to get it on the extra thickness (depending on how stiff the grip is - these KTM grips are like rock rubber; extremely little flex.

Heated the tubing and got it to contract on the bar. With the self-adhesive it is STUCK. There is no way it is going to slip.


then cut it down with the xacto


Test fit with the *throttle* grip - Perfect! Somehow I lucked into exactly the right diameter


Some of this on the inside of the grip to glue it to the shrink wrap


...and I'm done.

Now to install the Euro switch and track a short in my dual heat troller

...more to come.

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Old 05-05-2011, 03:21 PM   #199
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Cool find on the adhesive shrink wrap, I've never heard of that! I like Fastenal, I only recently discovered that place.

I thought I was pretty clever to find some regular shrink wrap at a computer supply place that was large enough to fit the left grip, but as you describe it slips/spins. So my solution was to clamp the left switch box OVER the heat shrink on the inside, and clamp the bar-end hand protector OVER it on the outside of the bar. I worked great, until a wire broke on the throttle side shorting the whole system... Never bothered to fix it. I've found a change of gloves to be way more comfortable when it gets chilly than heated grips...

Keep it coming!
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Old 05-05-2011, 04:02 PM   #200
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Originally Posted by viola-tor View Post
I've found a change of gloves to be way more comfortable when it gets chilly than heated grips...
!
I agree with you Diek.. except I live somewhere where I can climb or descend 5000 feet in a matter of a very short while and it sure is nice to flick on the heat without having to stop... knowing I'd have to stop again in a few minutes

...then there are those times when I have my warmest gloves on and I'm still freezing
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Old 05-05-2011, 04:10 PM   #201
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So.. I had the new left grip on but I wasn't done.

I had a "list of things" I'd been saving up to do "in the nose".

-install the Euro headlight switch I bought a while back.
-figure out why my permanent heat-troller wasn't working.
-plumb the tubing on the overflows of the safaris
-install the HID

Since the HID was still on a slow boat from China... I'd have to be satisfied with the other 3 chores.

I got the hand grip all back together and then delved into the wiring mess I have under the headlight...

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Old 05-05-2011, 04:16 PM   #202
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The Euroswitch.

The "euroswitch" as it is commonly called, is a directly replacement for the switch housing on your *right* handlebar - i.e the one with the kill switch and the start button.

It is a plug-n-play replacement and mounts/connects exactly the same way as the stock one.

Its purpose is to give you a way to toggle your headlight on and off (and also "parking lights"). A relief on those frosty mornings camping in the middle of nowhere when the bike is having a hard time turning over (I've resorted to pulling my headlight fuse in the past).

Euroswitch on the left...


...plug'n'play


The switch plugs in on the left - it is the one I have plugged in in the photo. Make sense design by KTM - the (pictured) left plug corresponds with the handlebar behind it, the center plug corresponds with the headlight and the right plug corresponds with the handlebar closest to it



...a few minutes with a screw driver and spending some *extra* time routing wires to make sure there is zero binding from throw-to-throw.. and voila


So with the switch to the right - even with the key on, all lights are off


With the switch in the center position, the little pilot light bulb is lit (in the Euro headlight shown here, the pilot bulb is at the bottom. In the USA headlight it is at the top


...and with the switch to the left, the low beam comes on


...then the left hand switch toggles the highbeam off and on like normal (which in the Euro headlight is the upper bulb)
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Old 05-05-2011, 04:20 PM   #203
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Euroswitch installed, next was the Safari tank vent lines.

A 2 second job I just never got around to doing when I did the original install. I need to remember to connect them when I pull the tanks in the future



The hose isn't long enough for what I want to do with it. For now I have it coming out under the chin of the bike so if you see my bike drooling on itself you'll know why I need to run to the autoparts store to pick up some more tube.
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Old 05-05-2011, 04:27 PM   #204
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Geek, before you fit the euro switch, did both low and high beam work simultaneously when you flicked the high beam switch? Is this because of the new switch or because its an American spec bike? Mine is a euro spec bike and both lights work together. I've been considering whether to buy the switch or a timed relay for the lights so I can crank without the HID's on. I would prefer the switch for obvious reasons but would need to know if I lose the low beam when I switch to high?

Nice bike by the way, iv'e been following this thread and it's all looking pretty dammed good
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Old 05-05-2011, 04:29 PM   #205
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And last chore for today is to figure what on earth is up with my dual-heat troller.

I have it wired to the two power-lets I have on my triple clamp. The left dial adjusts the left port, the right dial adjusts the right port. This way if I'm wearing my gerbing jacket and my gerbing pants I have independent temperature control (which in my experience is a must because your torso is out in the wind blast and it can be freezing while yer arse is sweating ).

I can also turn them both on full and use them to charge things like my phone.

For some reason the thing stopped working during our "Freezing Our Buttes Off Ride". Luckily for me, after 2 days of riding in sub-freezing temperatures, it didn't decide to stop working until I was 2 miles from home (someone up there likes me )




The dual heattroller is made by gerbing and has extra long wires on it. Understandable as it could be used on any type of bike and therefore it'd have to be long enough to fit bikes like goldwings & such.

Unfortunately this means I have a rats nest to contend with....

My bike's wiring has been out of control for quite some time. I kept putting off diving in and "doing it right".

The fact that the dual-troller stopped working was the motivation I needed.

Before...



I decided to start pulling to do it right....


All these wires are *just* the dual troller
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Old 05-05-2011, 04:33 PM   #206
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I completely removed the failed GPS power cable that had been sitting there not doing anything for the last 6 months (I'd cut it off when I found it the source of parasitic drag.. and then decided I like running my GPS off of batteries just fine). I siliconed the hole I'd cut in the dash where the GPS cable had passed through.

With no real plan I just started zip tieing things together and straightening things out.

With a bit of wiggling here and wiggling there I managed to find a section of wire that was broken inside and was causing my problems
I cut the section of wire out and soldered things back together... now everything's working again!




now to clean up the mess....






...and knowing that somehow the headlight bucket needs to fit in the middle of it all; here is what I ended up with and how I stored that "2 foot snake" of cables the dual-troller needs


Geek screwed with this post 05-05-2011 at 04:43 PM
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Old 05-05-2011, 04:34 PM   #207
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...to be continued when the HID shows up from china.
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Old 05-05-2011, 04:36 PM   #208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sacal View Post
Geek, before you fit the euro switch, did both low and high beam work simultaneously when you flicked the high beam switch? Is this because of the new switch or because its an American spec bike? Mine is a euro spec bike and both lights work together. I've been considering whether to buy the switch or a timed relay for the lights so I can crank without the HID's on. I would prefer the switch for obvious reasons but would need to know if I lose the low beam when I switch to high?

Nice bike by the way, iv'e been following this thread and it's all looking pretty dammed good
I think they both came on before and they both come on still now

To tell you the truth I never looked and always assumed they were always both on.
I have the Eurospec headlight in it - with the American spec light only the bottom bulb is used.


The photo is deceiving, I think the low beam is on but the high beam is so bright that the camera's aperture went way down so the low beam is dull...


You probably already know this but I'll post this for those not familiar with the differences
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Old 05-05-2011, 04:44 PM   #209
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Thanks, I was already planning to phone around and order one tomorrow when I get paid....that photo gave me shock for sure

I'm wondering about your Gerbing controllers also as iv'e been thinking about some heated clothing later in the year (lesson learned getting stuck riding back through Germany when the snow swept across Europe in November brrrrrr) Fitting to the HDB top clamp, did you need to weatherproof the circuit boards on the back of the dials?
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Old 05-05-2011, 04:47 PM   #210
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Nope.. didn't weather proof them in any way. I think they are epoxy dipped.
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