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Old 05-07-2011, 09:16 PM   #226
PS-RagE
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I just nipped off the halogen socket and soldered the conversion kit in its place:



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Old 05-07-2011, 11:40 PM   #227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geek View Post
Nice! Are those Conti trail attacks?
Yup. I have em on mine too. Bought em just before the Rally in Moab. Worked great. 400 miles of dirt on the way there and a couple days of dirt while in Moab and then rode em home. Still have em on the bike with almost 10K miles on em. Mefo's next but I am happy with the Conti's
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Old 05-08-2011, 11:15 AM   #228
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Quote:
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Nice! Are those Conti trail attacks?
Ya they are on my street rims. Pretty killer tires on the street compared to the Scorps. Not as good a dirt tire but that's not what I was looking for. Street bikes are fun on dirt roads too thought
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Old 05-08-2011, 03:23 PM   #229
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How Far Can the Safaris Go?


So I wanted to find out exactly what my fuel range is with "a bit of everything" riding. Did ~half street riding and half of it steering with the throttle on gravel roads and the Switzerland trail.

I filled up both tanks and then turned off the right tank so I was running from the left tank only. This is a great way to find out for sure because you can run it dry and then turn the other tank back on.

LEFT TANK ONLY:
number of miles until I hit reserve... fuel light just came on:



and number of miles until she was dry:




220 miles on left tank only!

So my approximate overall fuel range: ~440 Miles!
Reserve: 27 miles (and that 27 is a worse case scenerio because it was 27 miles of backing the bike through corners )

...and here's a pic of the Switzerland Trail today:


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Old 05-08-2011, 03:31 PM   #230
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Damn. I gotta come up with $1400
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Old 05-08-2011, 03:37 PM   #231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geek View Post
How Far Can the Safaris Go?


I filled up both tanks and then turned off the right tank so I was running from the left tank only. This is a great way to find out for sure because you can run it dry and then turn the other tank back on.
Out of curiosity, how many gallons did you put in? Since they expend from what I read.

That's sweet....
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Old 05-08-2011, 03:40 PM   #232
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I really don't know because I was half way through a tank when I decided to fill them to the rim and see what the range was. I put in just over 8 gallons but I have no idea how much was in there already.

Next experiment will be to run the left tank dry and then see how much I can squeeze in.

I'm afraid to park the thing in the sun for fear it blows up like a zepplin (double entendre intended )

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Old 05-08-2011, 03:44 PM   #233
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gotcha... I am curious to see how fast the go from 12gal to 14... extending your range to 500!
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Old 05-30-2011, 07:22 AM   #234
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I'm a bit behind... riding season has begun

A while ago I posted a DIY: Crashbar stud mounts
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=626041


Re-copied here for reference:

In a recent thread I saw Qwik posted that he'd switched his front crashbar mounts from "bolt on" to "studs with a lock not".

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=15

Why do this:
The idea is that as you remove and replace your crashbars over time (a very fiddly procedure) the aluminum you are bolting into (above the battery box) gets chewed up which could lead to a long term problem. By eliminating the bolt and using a permanent mounted stud instead, it makes your crash bars easier to mount and it'll save the threads in the frame in the long run

I performed the procedure on my bike today and thought I'd put together a step-by-step for others considering it to save you from multiple trips to the hardware store, etc... It is a very easy thing to do but I'll over-explain it in case someone with zero mechanical skills wants to do it.

There are many ways you could do this - this is what I did; what worked for me and what didn't work for me.

Here is the problem:

Where your crash bars bolt on in behind the front wheel and above the battery box. Over time the holes will wear. If you've had it apart you know that it is an aluminum plate sitting over the frame underneath.

Here is the objective: Stud on the left that uses a nut to hold the crash bar on - vs. bolt on the right that we use now.


What I used:


On the right is the stock mounting bolt and the stock spacer.
I replaced it with the stud, two nuts jammed together, and a lock nut.

Here is what I used:
Red loctite (permanent).
Qty 2: nylon locknuts: M8-1.25
Qty 4: nuts: M8-1.25 nuts
Qty 2: studs (aka: All-Thread): M8-1.25x40

What the numbers mean:
-M8 means 8mm diameter
-the 1.25 is the thread pitch (which is coarser than 1.00 pitch - pay attention when buying nuts.. I accidentally bought some 1.00 pitch because they were in the wrong bin ! You need 1.25 pitch as that is what the original threaded holes are)
-40 - the studs are 40mm long - shorter than this you may not have enough material. Much longer than this and you may have clearance issues with the header pipe. 50mm would probably work but I haven't tried.

I went to a few hardware stores trying to find the right studs - it turns out my local ACE Hardware had them.

And this is basically the goal: To create the thing on the left and eliminate the thing on the right.


Jam the two nuts together in the middle of the stud by torquing on them toward each other so they bind (I slightly offset mine so that the end that threads into the bike is maybe 2mm shorter than the part that sticks out - ymmv depending on how thick the nuts you have are).



Put red (permanent) loctite on the end you are going to thread into the bike


DO NOT DO THIS!:
I made this mistake: Do NOT mount the studs before you put the aluminum plate on - there is not enough space between the header and the stud to get the plate on..

so you need to put the plate in position first and then put the studs in.

Thread them in!


The red loctite will mount them permanently and the two nuts jammed together will let you snug the studs down so that everything is tight

Now when you go to mount your crashbars they'll just slip over the studs easily (no more alignment issues (at least on this bolt ) )



Throw a nylon lock nut on and you are done


Note: Qwik did his with the original spacers. I found that the nuts I used created enough lift that I didn't need the spacer - YMMV. Using the spacers would probably be "stronger" as they are wider - I might replace my nuts with larger outside diameter ones in the future to give a bigger foot print.



I hope this helps someone.

cheers,
Edward
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Old 05-30-2011, 07:24 AM   #235
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Update on the above...

I stripped one of my skidplate bolt holes... front left.. kept losing bolts.

So I decided to do the "stud conversion" for the skid plate too... and it turned out great!



The key is the studs I found.... they have to be exactly the correct length and these ones have allen key heads

...more to come
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Old 05-30-2011, 07:32 AM   #236
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The studs with built in allen key hole for tightening:





They are the perfect length. any shorter and you wouldn't have enough thread. Any longer and they wouldn't allow the skidplate to "swing" its arc

I put red locktite on them and screwed them in as deep as I could get them. It turns out that stripped left hole had enough meat left in it to fasten firm. Since I never have to remove the stud again... problem is solved.



Some nylon locknuts and my skid plate is now easy to remove and I won't do any more damage to the threads




Now I can take the skid plate on and off all I want without worry... that seems to be a bunch


Only thing I need to remember now is it takes a 13mm and a 10mm socket to remove the skidplate.


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Old 05-30-2011, 07:36 AM   #237
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A couple of random pics from this past weekend's 800 mile offroad ride









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Old 05-30-2011, 08:01 AM   #238
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Fuel Pump Update:



A year or so ago I swapped my fuel pump for a facet.
At the time I used bullet connectors and also wired the stock pump with matching connectors so that I could quick-swap pumps in the dark on a single track at 11,000 feet if need be

We were talking the other day in the Facet thread and it occurred to me that I could do better than what I'd done...

Old setup: I made the positive and negative bullets opposite so that I can't accidentally reverse polarity on the trail





I don't think the bullet connectors were holding up after 15K+ miles.. so a new solution was in the works...
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Old 05-30-2011, 08:06 AM   #239
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I ran to the autoparts store and for $2 bought a couple of "2 connector flat plugs".



cut 'em in half... I need 3 leads. One for the bike, one for the facet and one for the hot-swap-backup-stock-pump



some shrink wrap and soldering...







and now I have a *much* better connection that is easier to replace/reconnect and also cannot be screwed up on the trail






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Old 05-30-2011, 08:07 AM   #240
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Note:

When wiring your fuel pump the BLACK WIRE is POSITIVE

...the brown is negative
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