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Old 07-18-2011, 03:00 AM   #61
NordieBoy
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I'm not smart enough to know if that means anything, I just found it interesting. Nordie should turn up shortly with some insightful knowledge.
Sometimes cats don't land on their feet when you drop them upside down.

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14/47 shouldn't have any even/odd/prime tooth combo problems.
14/42 however...
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Old 07-18-2011, 09:11 PM   #62
kiwipeet
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Originally Posted by BMWRSNUT View Post
Misalignment. Also try running uneven spocket combinations, such as 15/42, so that the chain doesn't land on the spocket in the same places all the time.
The combination or ratio is irrelevant, it's the number of teeth per sprocket, that will mean that the chain inner/outer links will always land in the same place irrespective of the number of teeth on the other sprocket. Sprockets with an even number of teeth will get this pattern whereas odd numbered will distribute wear marks evenly.

The amount of wear, uneven or lopsided wear is another story.

It's hard to see because of lighting in the photo, but are the wear marks consistent all the way around the sprocket? (Or are the wear marks deeper in the bottom of your photo than in the top?)

If yes there could be few things, the counter shaft could be bent, the sprocket itself could inaccurately machined, or might not have been installed squarely. On some bikes the front sprocket has a small amount of free play. A small stone or some grit may have caused it to sit out of square just long enough for it to wear unusually. (hey it's wild guess)

If the sprocket is just wearing more on one side (inside/outside) id be looking at alignment.

I haven't had a close look at BMW chain adjust design, but I had bikes with adjustment marks that were inconsistent between each side.

With the chain sprockets fitted look along the length of the chain to ensure the rear sprocket lines up correctly.

It's rare or unlikely but it's also possible to have an engine out of alignment. For example if an engine mount is bent, or if the engine has been removed and reinstalled and a washer/spacer is missing, could result in the engine not sitting squarely in the frame.

I can't really see the depth of the wear from the photo's but I wouldn't be too worried about it. If it was me, I'd replace the set, make sure they're adjusted/aligned correctly and check it again in another thousand k's.

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Old 07-18-2011, 09:57 PM   #63
kiwipeet
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Have you owned the bike since new? It could even be something as silly as someone fitting the wrong chain. 520, 525 and 530 chains all have the same pitch. The wrong size chain might lead to unusual wear patterns.
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Old 07-19-2011, 04:38 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by kiwipeet View Post
Have you owned the bike since new? It could even be something as silly as someone fitting the wrong chain. 520, 525 and 530 chains all have the same pitch. The wrong size chain might lead to unusual wear patterns.
Nope, it had 3000k on it when I bought it. So chances are I am the culprit.

Another piece of relevant info is that the bearings of the sprocket carrier collapsed for an important number of K, which is what made me think of the shaft being bent. In other words the whole set was having a very bad play till I found out. This happened even when at the time I was paying the dealer to do the maintenance according to schedule .... but they didnt find this problem.
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Old 07-20-2011, 02:32 AM   #65
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I think you just answered your own question...

The shaft may not be bent. If a bearing was collapsed that may have allowed enough play to allow it to exaggerate wear.

Again, since that has been fixed. I'd put a new set on, make sure it is adjusted correctly, and check it again in 500 k's

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Old 07-20-2011, 06:56 PM   #66
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Hum the think is that that problem happened well before I replaced the whole set, at about 35000 K, but I guess I'll have to check it again as you say to see how is this one doing ...

thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwipeet View Post
I think you just answered your own question...

The shaft may not be bent. If a bearing was collapsed that may have allowed enough play to allow it to exaggerate wear.

Again, since that has been fixed. I'd put a new set on, make sure it is adjusted correctly, and check it again in 500 k's
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Old 08-31-2011, 03:02 AM   #67
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Brake line holder relocation

After installing the fairing the standard location for the brake line guide caused rubbing against the fairing so needed to be relocated.

So a first draft to move it


this shows where the guide goes


front view



with bars full left



bars straight
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Old 09-04-2011, 01:48 AM   #68
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Improve fairing removal

So in order to remove the fairing I needed
1. disconnect indicators
2. remove 4 bolts to side panels (no nuts)
3. remove 2 bolts to main bracket (no nuts)

My idea is to get rid of step 1, this way is just hex bolts. To do this I'll move the indicators to main bracket ... lets see how it goes

a. make extension to hold indicators


aaand


on the right side


view from inside


front view both new mounting


side view



then bolt the fairing



closer front view


so all in all its ok, the left indicator is not quite correctly aligned but both of the work and the fairing removal now needs one less step ... which if forgotten could have resulted on cut cable ...
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Old 09-05-2011, 12:35 AM   #69
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Dashboard bracket - 2nd try

so first bracket for dashboard was just to get the bike going ... this is a second try.
Objective:
1. make it visible while seating
2. make it visible while standing
3. lower it a bit
4. align it better

First, I decided to change the bracket so it doesn't go so high and look like a spade in front of me


Once this is done, try new (reused bracket with new holes) ...



close up to see lack of quality of my work



Front view:


from behind


standing on the pegs


so slightly better, at least position now is useful seating and standing
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Old 09-05-2011, 12:45 AM   #70
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so any thoughts on dashboard location? I'm not sure how a road-map would fit or a GPS ... I have plenty of space to put one but problem seems to me all is bit too vertical ... possibly causing difficulty to view

GPS is not much of a worry as I don't use one normally but well wouldn't hurt to be able to have space for it
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Old 09-07-2011, 07:05 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by pampaX View Post
so any thoughts on dashboard location? I'm not sure how a road-map would fit or a GPS ... I have plenty of space to put one but problem seems to me all is bit too vertical ... possibly causing difficulty to view

GPS is not much of a worry as I don't use one normally but well wouldn't hurt to be able to have space for it
Looks good, I would just get those cables hidden away and paint the indicator mounts black to tidy up the look.
Think you could mount a GPS unit (smallish ones, GPS60 etc) on either side approximately where the indicators are mounted, maybe on a ram mount so the view angle would be adjustable, and have it set back slightly towards the bars.

Looking good tho, I do like it.
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Old 09-07-2011, 08:28 PM   #72
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Looking good. Now get to work with a file, then a finer file, & then sandpaper & you'll have all that scrappy alu looking like custom factory rallye bling in no time. Some nice stainless dome head cap screws to tie it all together are only a few cents if you find the right engineering supplies place.

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so any thoughts on dashboard location? I'm not sure how a road-map would fit or a GPS ... I have plenty of space to put one but problem seems to me all is bit too vertical ... possibly causing difficulty to view
If you shift the dash unit sideways a bit there may be room beside it for a gps? Routesheet holder would want to be lower & to the left so it's an easy reach for your clutch hand.

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Old 09-08-2011, 03:01 AM   #73
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Originally Posted by .chris View Post
Looks good, I would just get those cables hidden away and paint the indicator mounts black to tidy up the look.
Think you could mount a GPS unit (smallish ones, GPS60 etc) on either side approximately where the indicators are mounted, maybe on a ram mount so the view angle would be adjustable, and have it set back slightly towards the bars.

Looking good tho, I do like it.
Yeah i'm still on draft mode, trying to get bits to hold all parts on right places so I can achieve maintainability and looks. Have lot of work to do with cables and painting yet

Ram mount was an option yes and I was also considering mounting a real computer with special OS for fast boot that a friend mentioned, in that case mount would be less removable ... still sinking about it

Quote:
Originally Posted by clintnz View Post
Looking good. Now get to work with a file, then a finer file, & then sandpaper & you'll have all that scrappy alu looking like custom factory rallye bling in no time. Some nice stainless dome head cap screws to tie it all together are only a few cents if you find the right engineering supplies place.



If you shift the dash unit sideways a bit there may be room beside it for a gps? Routesheet holder would want to be lower & to the left so it's an easy reach for your clutch hand.

Cheers
Clint
I did a bit of that, is not obvious

LOL yeah, as was saying this is more like a draft, some bits I may reuse and some redo ... the main bracket needs redoing for instance too many holes on it .... I needed to see on the flesh to then work out what's better for me ...

Regarding position, you're right haven't considered that, what I wanted or was considering was trying to get as close to my line of sight as possible as I tend to stand a lot when off road ... not that I have chance to go much nowadays
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Old 09-08-2011, 03:14 AM   #74
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Position light mount

So I bought some position led lights and had them on the original mask. Now I made them pluggable.

First bracket, failed miserably due to vibration and design. Lasted a few hundred K .... not good

So here I go with a second bracket to hold this lights.

Borrowing technique from Kiwipet, the plan
1. get the bracket
2. attach it to main bracket
3. install the lights
4. give it a run and see how it holds

this cutting, filing, sanding, etc its hard work, luckily my day work prepares me for this kind of activity

and this is what I got in the end ...
First, two of small brackets for the lights, cut, filed, sanded (all partially) holes made so I can get the plug through


This is the light


and then both halfs bolted to main bracket


Ok, good so far, lets try to plug one light to verify it is all still fine


so get both there and zip-tie them


they can be glued, but till i'm sure this is how it goes

and finally a close look at both plugged with power on


and from further back


hum surely nobody is going to miss me when lane splitting


What's left on this area is tidy the 4000metres of cable behind the fairing ...
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Old 09-14-2011, 02:19 AM   #75
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Time for tyres

This time rear Dunlop D606 and front Michelin Baja


now just a matter of changing them ... also maybe time to organise another movie/rugby+pizza+beer ...
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