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Old 09-15-2006, 08:49 AM   #31
Stephen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neduro
That's the KTM model- small incremental changes that on the face of it, don't seem like that much, but taken together, seem to make a significantly better product.

Hmm. Must avoid riding 07. Must avoid riding 07.
Note from a trail n00b: I got to ride boxertwin's box-stock 06 250 xcw in Idaho City. The first day, I was thinking, "this is not really the ideal beginner's bike." It's a little high-strung, firmly sprung, and felt like it was just hopin' I'd let it creep into the powerband so it could spit me off like the dipshit I am. The second day, I was thinking, "This bike rocks. I want one."

Back here in Texas, I realized there're no riding spots worthy of the xcw, but I still want a dirt bike... and there's this sweet DRZ on craigslist, really cheap... must resist...

Goddamn dirt bikes, sirens on the shoals they are.
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Old 09-16-2006, 03:51 PM   #32
Hair
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I changed the fluid in my forks today. I've been putting it off for to long.

The setup check is what did it for me. When I push on the bars. The forks at first would not move then they stuck.

After going though the alignment procedure and changing the oil they work like new ones.

Good job Ned.
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Old 09-16-2006, 04:00 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hair
I changed the fluid in my forks today. I've been putting it off for to long.
Glad to hear it! I replied to your email, but it bounced...

If anyone else is wondering, 5 weight should do fine...
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Old 09-16-2006, 07:03 PM   #34
Hair
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neduro
Glad to hear it! I replied to your email, but it bounced...

If anyone else is wondering, 5 weight should do fine...
I changed my email address on the site. Something got messed up.

I really can't express what a difference working on the forkes made.

I had been frustrated with their proformance for a long time. I have not ridden trails with them yet. But on the street out by the house they are smooth as silk.
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Old 09-18-2006, 05:42 AM   #35
techieguy
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How difficult is it to replace the oil? Earlier in the thread there was talk of a write up; did I miss it?

Thanks,

Techieguy
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Old 05-05-2015, 09:51 AM   #36
Wanderer7
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I've been searching around as usual and I came across this thread. Now, before someone points out that it's almost 9 years old, I just want to say that the info is still relevant. So if anyone can help clarify something that I have wondered for a quite some time now, it's this:
Logic deems that by loosening the front fork triples that if it's still holding itself up at that point, that if you push down on the front end, that the whole front end will drop and not necessarily "settle" into place like the OP has stated. What's to keep it from falling? I've always wondered this when I read about getting rid of front end stiction using this method, yet I never heard anyone ask. Can someone please clarify for me? And what of this 15 minute oil change as well? (I'm not as interested in this as I am the first question though)
Thanks!!
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Old 05-05-2015, 01:05 PM   #37
dhally
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wanderer7 View Post
... by loosening the front fork triples ... if you push down on the front end, ... the whole front end will drop and not necessarily "settle" into place ...
I always loosen the axle clamps, not the fork triples. Just to make sure the axle is squarely clamped into the fork lowers.
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Old 05-05-2015, 01:48 PM   #38
Rusty Rocket
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the original post calls for loosening the top triple from the post that goes through the steering head. That parallels the forks with each other. I did it and it helped a lot.
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Old 05-05-2015, 02:18 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by Wanderer7 View Post
What's to keep it from falling? I've always wondered this when I read about getting rid of front end stiction using this method, yet I never heard anyone ask.
So, my writeup isn't super clear on the point, but my approach these days is to loosen all but the top clamping bolt in the triples. On most KTM forks, that means there are 2 top triple bolts, and 2 bottom triple bolts per fork leg, and I loosen 3 of these (both bottom and lower top). Jeesh, that's a mouthful.

I would add to this that I now use a torque wrench on the lower triple clamp bolts. Machined triples will have a torque value (typically 12 n/m lower and 17 n/m upper), cast should be similar. I do not find the upper is nearly as critical for fork feel as lower torque setting, and be very careful to sneak up on it, turning one bolt then the other small bits at a time until they both break over the torque setting.
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Old 05-06-2015, 11:35 AM   #40
meat popsicle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neduro View Post
So, my writeup isn't super clear on the point, but my approach these days is to loosen all but the top clamping bolt in the triples. On most KTM forks, that means there are 2 top triple bolts, and 2 bottom triple bolts per fork leg, and I loosen 3 of these (both bottom and lower top). Jeesh, that's a mouthful.

I would add to this that I now use a torque wrench on the lower triple clamp bolts. Machined triples will have a torque value (typically 12 n/m lower and 17 n/m upper), cast should be similar. I do not find the upper is nearly as critical for fork feel as lower torque setting, and be very careful to sneak up on it, turning one bolt then the other small bits at a time until they both break over the torque setting.
There was a recent prolonged discussion on installing or adjusting fork installations to true up the legs. I think we made good progress, and the dead horse coughed up a few more gems as we beat it to a pulp. Here is my summary post in my fork maintenance thread that links to pages in the LC4 index thread where the discussion was held:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=339544&page=6

The one point I'll make here is I haven't noticed anyone loosening some of the triple clamps pinch bolts during their process. If the clamps are machined correctly they should hold the upper portion of the forks true. You can check the true-ness of the upper fork section and then rotate them in the triples to improve this if their is damage or mfg. flaws. More in the link above and links therein.

My other thought is just two-cents: the upper and lower pinch bolts have torque values and I think these are likely very important for protecting the forks from damage. Tight enough so they won't slip under normal forces, but in a crash or such they can slip - rather than bend or break.
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Old 05-07-2015, 12:47 PM   #41
warewolf
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The torque values specified in early model forks have also been revised down, according to my suspension guru.

He said that too tight pinches the fork tube which can interfere with the suspension action. When the 48 mm forks were released WP went with conservative high numbers but later models the spec had come down - and he feels the forks work better as a result.

IIRC the spec for my bike is 20-15-15 (top to bottom) so neduro's 17-12 is probably the revised number.
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Old 05-07-2015, 03:50 PM   #42
bobfab
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yes Ned, thank you for this thread. I also found it recently while trying to install my EE CDI relocator, but it appears the 200SX CDI is different in shape than the 300's. So it wont work for my application, if anyone wants it PM me, it was only about $10.

Great thread
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