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Old 07-08-2011, 08:15 AM   #61
Bartron OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InHarmsWay View Post
Just bought a new/leftover 2010 KTM690R. It still only has about 60 miles on it. Finding your build-up on here is a real gift. I appreciate that you put it in such a useable order.

Question: it appears that you only did the FMF muffler, or did you replace the entire exhaust?
Thanks. It's hard to find the info, especially in one place so I'm happy to hear it serves you well. As you can see, I took a lot of heat for the layout initially but it keeps things much more organized.

None of us changed the header, just the exhaust and airfilter, then changed the mapping to suit.

Congrats on your first post, I'm honored you'd choose to do it here.
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Old 07-09-2011, 07:17 AM   #62
InHarmsWay
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Got it. That means I can apply the money saved from the header toward something else!

I intend to ride to the first factory scheduled servicing, 620 miles/1000 km, with it in it's stock configuration to get a good break-in period. Thereafter, I'll start doing some of the mods you've illustrated. Hope you won't mind if I tap you for some answers should questions arise. I'm a decent mechanic, but electrical work has always been mystifying. And not sure about the whole mapping thing, but I'm also going to speak with some of the mechanics at the dealer I bought it from and see what ability they have, as well.

Thanks again.
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Old 07-11-2011, 09:32 AM   #63
Maurizio
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Originally Posted by Bartron View Post
WARNING
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Old 07-11-2011, 08:10 PM   #64
Bartron OP
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Originally Posted by Maurizio View Post
Thanks man, just included some more info specific to 2011 if interested.

Unlike you, I couldn't get my Mac to play nice with TuneECU through Parallels and had to dig-out the PC relic.
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Old 07-12-2011, 01:16 PM   #65
Uller
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Originally Posted by Bartron View Post
WARNING: Following any suggestions here is at YOUR OWN RISK of PERIL. I will not be held responsible for your misadventures but I would note that ECU's are available from KTM.

PREPWORK

What you will need:

Computer or laptop running Windows XP or higher with USB port.
I'm a mac geek so this is as good as it gets for Windows at my house:
Microsoft Framework 2.0 to 3.5 installed. We had trouble getting the Framework 4.0 to work and had to revert to 3.5.
Download latest version of TuneECU from http://www.tuneecu.com
Download appropriate maps from TuneECU
Bike with fully charged battery
USB to OBD to KTM diagnostic plug cable (I sourced mine from CJRacer)
Patience and courage
Install the appropriate drivers for the OBD cable and ECU (explained on the TuneECU website) otherwise your bike will not connect

A word about maps:

EPT map: Determines the amount of throttle body opening relative to handlebar throttle input. Adjustment of this fly-by-wire throttle permits dramatic changes in response of the engine to throttle input.
FI map: Determines the amount of fuel delivered depending on engine load, RPM and throttle body input. This map may utilize the oxygen sensor or the SAI (secondary air intake).


MAPS

There are FOUR maps I have experience with, all available on the TuneECU site. Each 'map' consists of two maps, the EPT and the FI map file. The TPS reset and a 15 min idle was carried out after each map change.

It would appear that maps that have "11" after the "KTM765EU" in the filename are specifically for 2011 bikes. This is my personal opinion, but I would NOT load any map with "08" instead of "11" onto a 2011 bike and vice versa. You're smart - you know what I'm saying here.

KM765EU0804031FIMap.hex and EPT map - This is the original 'Akro' map designed to take advantage of the PowerParts Akrapovic slip-on exhaust available from KTM. This map does NOT use the oxygen sensor or the SAI. This map is NOT compatible with 2011 bikes as they have a different throttle body.
REVIEW: I have used this map with the changes outlined and enjoyed it. It brought out the hooligan in me and the bike. There was no stalling, stuttering or surging.

KM765EU0804132FIMap.hex and EPT map - This is for the KTM EVO 1 kit which consists of the Akro exhaust and a modified airbox cover to allow more air entry. It DOES use the oxygen sensor and SAI.
REVIEW: I have used this map with the same changes as outlined. Over close to 1,000 miles I found it not as enjoyable as the '4031' map. No stalling issues but I found that it would surge, the idle was higher initially and it seemed like it hunted a little. After my experience with this map, I've gone back to the '4031' map.

KM765EU0800231FIMap.hex and EPT map - This may be the 'updated' version of the 'Akro' map. Likely still not compatible with the 2011's but in terms of the contents, all the fuelling and throttle parameters are the same as the '4031' map. It is essentially identical to the original Akro map and I do not know its purpose..
REVIEW: I have NOT loaded this map on my bike as it appears the same as the original '4031' map.

KM765EU11B0231FIMap.hex and EPT map - This is the 'Akro' map for the 2011 models with the updated throttle bodies. The EPT map is same as the previous 'Akra' maps. The FI map is different which makes sense given the new throttle bodies.
REVIEW: We have just loaded this onto Getafix's bike and plan to make the changes as above and will report how it goes. This map is not widely available and I was unable to attach it as a zip file for everyone but will email it to TuneECU.

You can "Read" maps from your bike. The process of transferring the maps from the bike to the comp is slow - be patient.
You can "Download" maps TO your bike. This process is faster.
Anytime you download a map to the bike, you overwrite what was there before. You will hear the bike click as it resets the ECU - this is normal.

CONNECTING

1. Start your computer
2. Open TuneECU
3. Connect USB-Diagnostic plug cable to your bike's diagnostic plug (tucked in to rider's right of the fuses).
4. Turn ignition on
5. Plug in the USB to your computer
6. Within 30 seconds, a little rectangle will blink in the lower right-hand-corner of the application. Initially it will be red when sensing the connection and turn to green once a connection is established.

To disconnect, turn the ignition off. I have not tried to 'eject' the bike.


INTERFACE

Three views are possible and can be selected in the top right-hand-corner.

Maps - allows view and editing of maps
Diagnostics - Allow you to see a wide variety of parameters the ECU is monitoring such as barometric pressure, oil temp, ambient temp, engine load, throttle voltage....
Tests - Allows you to perform several tests on the bike via the ECU


PLAY TIME

Spend some time familiarizing yourself with the information available and the application.

The opening screen is set to Triumph by default, it will change to KTM upon connection or loading a map.
Load up the EPT map of your choice, it will look like this:

You can see the subtle difference between the standard and performance maps. Choose performance as this is the one you want to edit (setting 2 on the handlebar map switch)

Although one first look this looks like a linear relationship it is not. To set it to be a perfectly linear relationship between throttle movement and throttle body opening that emulates a 'carb' feeling, change the values to 100%. You can change one cell and copy and paste to the rest.

Now have a look at the Soft map for comparison, notice how little throttle body opening there is for relative throttle movement? This will attenuate what happens when you accidentally twist the throttle in the tight stuff. Hence the reason for leaving the other maps alone and just modifying the performance one so you can retain the soft setting for the technical terrain.

Now save the map somewhere and remember where so you can download it to the bike.

We now move on to the FI map. Load the coupled FI map to the EPT map you were just working on.

This is what it will look like:

You will note that with the Akra maps, the F1/F2/F3 will be the same, as will the "I" and "L" maps.

To account for your air filter and exhaust set up, you can choose to richen the fuel mixture by a particular percentage across the RPM range. This is under the "F trim". This is the stock trim, zero:

On advice from Beaney and to run a bit on the rich side, I've upped my trim by 4%.

Next is the F-L Switch. I'm NOT SURE, but believe it has to do with how the engine reacts to sudden load changes. This is the stock setting:

On advice from Beaney, many of us have made the following modification to prevent stalling and the dreaded 'flame-out'.

Now you're done. Save and download to the bike. Reset the EPT (iginition on, throttle full on then full off slowly, ignition off) and do the 15 min idle and you're ready - go and enjoy. Your fuel consumption will increase a little but the grin factor will more than make up for it.
Bartron,

It would be really awesome if you could post this to the TuneEcu 690 discussion thread (http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...=685657&page=3). (or I could just post up a link to this thread in that thread and refer people here.....)

BTW, I think I already had seen that info in various places/posts, however, not in such a detailed, informational, helpful way. I have the cable and have played with the program, I was just hesitant because I wasn't 100% sure.

Now I am. Thanks so much!
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Old 07-13-2011, 06:18 PM   #66
Bartron OP
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Originally Posted by Uller View Post
Bartron,

It would be really awesome if you could post this to the TuneEcu 690 discussion thread (http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...=685657&page=3). (or I could just post up a link to this thread in that thread and refer people here.....)

BTW, I think I already had seen that info in various places/posts, however, not in such a detailed, informational, helpful way. I have the cable and have played with the program, I was just hesitant because I wasn't 100% sure.

Now I am. Thanks so much!
Thanks Uller, I've been following that thread too and used some of that information to put this thread together. If you found this stuff beneficial, feel free to link it in other threads. Hope you enjoy the changes you've made!
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Old 07-18-2011, 09:56 AM   #67
jonnykilo
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Awesome

Awesome thread. Just got a nearly new 08 Enduro, and had planned on pursuing many of the same mods. Will lurk here for a while and pick up all your gems, then might have a few questions. Many thanks in advance.
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Old 07-18-2011, 12:45 PM   #68
DirtJack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bartron View Post
Thanks man, just included some more info specific to 2011 if interested.

Unlike you, I couldn't get my Mac to play nice with TuneECU through Parallels and had to dig-out the PC relic.
I use VirtualBox from Oracle (Freely available, as in software freedom, and well supported) for TuneECU on my Mac. Stopped using Parallels long ago and VMWare recently.

Just found this thread today. Great job! Reading this all at once now, I had a bit of a problem understanding the lame comments along the way because of the quality of your contributions. Those posters need to rise to your standard and fill those empty place-holders with useful gems for the 690 HOW.
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Old 07-18-2011, 09:00 PM   #69
giodog2000
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Old 07-29-2011, 11:25 PM   #70
Roadracer_Al
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sub'd.

Lots of good info. Thanks for taking the time to put it together.

a
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Old 07-31-2011, 11:58 AM   #71
Brown Dog
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Originally Posted by straightrod View Post
45 posts and not one picture?
Now 70
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Old 07-31-2011, 12:02 PM   #72
Bartron OP
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Now 70
How about checking the first page?
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Old 08-19-2011, 08:12 AM   #73
InHarmsWay
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I have all my new parts and getting ready to tear into the project. On your "Canisterectomy" and SAS removal, and constructing the 22K OHM 1/4 watt resistor, is there any specific gauge of wire that you used?

Thanks.
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Old 08-21-2011, 06:10 PM   #74
bigborefan
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I think the layout you did on this thread is great. It will make it very easy to read and follow.
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Old 08-22-2011, 09:31 PM   #75
Bartron OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InHarmsWay View Post
I have all my new parts and getting ready to tear into the project. On your "Canisterectomy" and SAS removal, and constructing the 22K OHM 1/4 watt resistor, is there any specific gauge of wire that you used?

Thanks.
Sorry for the late reply. I used 18G because that's what I had around and I had the appropriately sized male and female spade connectors handy. I wouldn't worry too much as there's not much juice flowing through the wiring and the original wires are quite tiny (22 or 24 gauge). I'm no electrician and can't be bothered to look up the relationship of resistance to wire diameter but it shouldn't affect the sensor bypass - at least not when using up to 18 gauge like we did.
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