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Old 05-12-2011, 10:25 AM   #31
65bmwr50 OP
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Title problems...

Apparently, if you don't register a vehicle for 36 years Pennsylvania assumes the vehicle doesn't exist anymore and purged the title from their systems. I'm now in a 4 - 8 week wait to get a title so I can transfer it to VA. I hate waiting, but it has been eight years, so what is a couple of more months.
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Old 06-12-2011, 07:40 AM   #32
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It moves!

Got the title, got a vintage never issued 1965 license plate, insurance. Took her for a short ride this morning. Took awhile to get it started for some reason. I drove it to the subdivision next door and back. Probably about 1.25 miles total. WOW, it rides different than my Suzuki.

First time I used the brakes I didn't think they were working at all. They got better or I got used to them. I did just replace all of the lining so it needs to break in. I need to adjust both the front and rear, too much travel in the controls.

Shifted as well as the V-strom.

She also wanders a little at slow speed. Is this normal? I would say maybe 2 feet total side to side at 10 mph and then it goes away.

She is also idling at 3500 rpm+/-. On the way back she was missing a little but I think that can be tuned out or I am still having some fueling issues. The miss was both under acceleration and cruise. No backfiring, good acceleration on the way out.

My wife shot a video of me riding up the driveway and out onto the road. I should have good high-speed internet after Tuesday and when I do I will post the video.

Forgot to shut the petcock off, got to go!
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Old 06-12-2011, 12:26 PM   #33
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It should be idling at 500 rpm.
Check (tug on), the condenser wire. Make sure it's still attached to the can.
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Old 06-12-2011, 02:42 PM   #34
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I'll check...

I'll check the wire, but...

When I started this the idle screws were out about 4 turns. They are now turned in all of the way and then backed out 1.5 turns. Should I back them out another 1.5 turns and test again?
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Old 06-12-2011, 03:43 PM   #35
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The book recommends the idle mixture screws be set at 1.5 - 2 turns out.

The slide stop screws should get backed way off and tightened until the idle starts to increase...
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Old 06-15-2011, 01:30 PM   #36
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troubles...

Wire is fine and I set up the carbs as the book lists. I could get it to run beautifully for short periods of time. Then I would lose one cylinder or the other. I tore the carbs down, fully cleaned them. (They needed it.) Still having the problem.

I'm still having problems. On the side that cuts out the float bowl is almost dry. I seem to have plenty of flow to the bowls. Can the floats stick in the up position? Just a thought. It may be a battle but I am still having fun!
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Old 06-15-2011, 05:19 PM   #37
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it's your gas tank, petcock and or fuel line...
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Old 06-15-2011, 05:37 PM   #38
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Thanks...

I'll start there and work my way down.
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Old 06-15-2011, 05:47 PM   #39
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I would suggest these /2's aren't as easily tune-able in the carb dept as the later bing's. No diaphragm, no o-rings, nothing to normalize or regulate the Bernoulli madness going on within.

I had a bit of trouble with mine at first as well.
They change sound more subtly when you're trying to adjust the mixture screw.

I tried the basic BING recommended settings treatment worked for 1 carb but not as well for the other.

In the end, I got it warm from a nice ride and synced the idle screws first by pulling the plug caps off the plugs and setting them gently back on (not pushing them till they click.)
Then, while running at idle, i just lift one of them up and get a rhythm for what the single cylinder was still running at. Then I re-attached and swapped. No need for the grounding trick, i just lifted them off by hand (with a leather glove for heat protection.)

I did this until they both ran about the same and I had a nice idle and then i did the same method at around 1000 rpm's while holding the throttle really still (maybe get a buddy to help) in order to adjust the throttle cables.

Suggest you use a fan aiming at the front of the bike.

Then I just checked the plugs every 50 miles and sprayed them off to clean them and put them back in. If it was too rich, I turned the mix just a hair.
If too lean, turn it back.

It's not the quickest way to do it, but it works.
BING makes a tune tool which is a sparkplug with a window so you can see the color and adjust mixture. They're helpful and easy to use (borrowed one) but I don't think I'd actually buy one.
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Old 07-17-2011, 04:58 PM   #40
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timing questions...

OK, I have her running pretty good until I try to rev it past about 3000 (guessing, no tach) it then starts to miss and quits accelerating. I checked the timing and at idle I am looking at what looks like an OT. I know I should be seeing an S- (according to the shop manual). I tried to adjust the timing and I can get it to the S- when it is idiling at approx 1000. Now when I run it up to about 3000 I see the OT. I also still have no power when I try to rev it. It gets to about 50 and just won't accel past that. Any thoughts?
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Old 07-18-2011, 08:14 PM   #41
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Timing

First off do NOT rotate the magneto housing to adjust timing.
The proper tuneup routine is:
1. set valve clearance
2. Set static timing
3. verify timing with strobe light with bike running
4. adjust carbs
To set static timing you will need a multimeter which beeps for continuity.

Start by roughly centering the magneto housing. Tighten the nuts and leave them alone. Then set the mark on the magneto rotor to be centered in the "V" of the plate on the front of the housing when the S mark is aligned in the timing window. This picture shows the alignment. (I painted the rotor to make it easier to see.



If it needs to be adjusted, use a puller bolt to remove the rotor from the camsaft nose. Align the marks and tighten rotor bolt.
Next set the point gap with points at maximum open.
Then remove both wires from the points block. Connect one lead of the multimeter to that screw on the points and ground the other lead. The meter will beep when the points are closed and stop beeping when the points open. Turn the engine over using the crankshaft bolt while listening and watching the marks in the timing window. Static timing is correct when the points open when the S mark is at the pointer in the window. Now rotate the engine 1 complete revolution while doing the same thing. Chances are the points will open at a different place in the window. This is called differential timing and is quite common. The circle of the timing window is 8 degrees. I think spec is 4 degrees difference, so if you can see the S mark any where in the window for cylinder 2, it should be okay. Use the eccentric screw on the plate behind the advance mechanism to adjust the timing. There is a tool out there that temporarily replaces the advance mechanism with just the cam faces to open the points. It makes it easier to time, since you don't need to keep pulling the advance on and off. Once you are satisfied with static timing, check with the bike running and a timning strobe light. At idle, you should see the S mark. You may see 2 marks jumping around. That is the differential timing. When you rev the engine, the S mark should go up and the F mark should come into view. It is important that at full advance the F mark does not go above the pointer in the window. If I need to, I will set the S mark below the pointer to keep the F mark from being too advanced.

You should also check that the spark gap on the coils is at 11 mm. Too close can cause the spark to jump there instead of at the plug. Also make sure you have zero ohm spark plug caps.There are 1kohm and 5kohm caps out there which could cause spark at the coils not the plugs.

After all of that, set idle, mixture and synch the carbs.

Good luck and keep us informed.
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Old 07-19-2011, 07:35 AM   #42
danedg
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step 1A -
Verify points gap. Rotate rotor until points are at fully open position. Verify or reset to .015 in.
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Old 07-21-2011, 03:30 PM   #43
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Static timing

The static timing was WAY off. I would say it was opening 20 - 30 degrees before the S showed up in the window. I got it set so they open with the S in the window. Now I need to get it outside to confirm the timing. However, it was 98 today and 103 tomorrow. I think I will wait a little bit...
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Old 07-21-2011, 07:10 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65bmwr50 View Post
The static timing was WAY off. I would say it was opening 20 - 30 degrees before the S showed up in the window. I got it set so they open with the S in the window. Now I need to get it outside to confirm the timing. However, it was 98 today and 103 tomorrow. I think I will wait a little bit...

Cha Ching!!! By George, I think he's got it!
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Old 07-27-2011, 06:33 PM   #45
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Thumbs down Something else wrong...

I have been having problems with not having a brake light. Adjusted the actuator, checked to make sure the switch was breaking buy testing continuity and everything there was fine. BUT, when I connect the wires to the switch I now have continuity through the switch. Well, I checked that I wired everything correctly and I had. I had taken the battery out so I could get to the distribution block. I had run the bike with out the battery in to check for the brake light and had plenty of lights. Once I put the battery back in I suddenly had no lights. If I put the key in the center/lights off position the charge light lights. In either one of the other positions nothing lights. I checked the voltage at the battery and I was seeing around 4 volts with the engine rev'd to approx 3K. At that point I assumed I had a bad battery (too much internal resistance) and got a new one.

Well, I have now determined I have a short somewhere. As soon as I touch the positive wire to the battery I get a SPARK. I am 95% sure it isn't in the wiring harness. I have isolated the tail light wiring and my questionable high/low/horn switch wiring. (I have a new one that will be going in this weekend)

What can go bad in the ignition/charging system that would give an apparent dead short? Anything else that any of you can think of? I am at a loss right now.
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