ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Riding > Ride reports
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 03-17-2011, 05:19 PM   #76
Sutherngintelmen
around the bend
 
Sutherngintelmen's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: ATL
Oddometer: 1,171
I'm settled on the wrong side of our continent - thanks for posting, Ged.
__________________
There is a pleasure in the pathed woods, There is a rapture in the smoking pipe, There is chaos, where none intrudes, in the deep dell, with its thrills roar; I love not nature less, but bikes the more. Byron riding.

All pics < 6/30/12 deleted by Apple Now with SmugMug supporting ADV
Sutherngintelmen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2011, 06:56 PM   #77
motoged OP
Studly Adventurer
 
motoged's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Location: Kamloops, BC
Oddometer: 865
Day Four: Mulege to La Purisima -

Breakfast in that new place south of town where the fiesta kept us from dinner...across from the Pemex and northwards a bit.

Big omelettes con langosta o camarones...can' remember.... no se...when a guy walks up to our table and says to me "What are you doing here?" in a friendly way.

It was like he thought he knew me or something ....and ...I am doing a nuclear-speed search in my memory for his face...??

He keeps on talking, addresses me by my name and says , "Jack.....950 enduro Jack ..."
I flash on a Jack I know and relate him to him as a 650 Honda guy who also used to hang out just south of Todos Santos at the plantation beach....and then grok that he is that Jack !!!
He looks great....like he has lost weight ...or at least the tan looks good on him.
He is wintering at one of the bays in Bahia Concepcion. As the connection is made we chat a bit. Envying his longer stays in Baja, I have wanted for years to figure out how to do it....but that's another story yet to be experienced.

We finished breakfast, bid Jack A Dios, and mounted up for the day's ride to La Purisima. The sweet 80 km ride down to the bottom of Concepcion brought us to the road heading east to San Nicholas and, a few more klicks past that, we came to the road we wanted heading west ...



It looked like good hardpack with assorted rocks strewn about or iceberging.., the usual washboard and erosion gullies, and then the ubiquitous sand traps and dry river crossings.

The road lead up to an alto plano approaching scattered small mountains and canyons...






The road was dusty and we were not stopping for too many pics until El Pilon presented itself on the horizon...




Looking forward with some anticipation to the upcoming towns of San Isidro and, 6 kms farther to La Purisima, I was hoping that there were vacancies at the area's only posada....but I needed a few pics from the approach down into the valley...














If I could find this place, there was a small motel situated behind it....




After a few passes through town looking for it (we missed it one our entrance to town ... it's on the north side on the main road at the eastern end of La Purisima)...








And there it was...

Posada del Angel



We pulled into the courtyard of an L-shaped motel and parked by the fountain...it was about 3:30 or so...



Si, cuartos....$200MP for room at the end....and $250 for the one beside it....because it had a tv ...I let David have it

If we came back later, the woman who operates the place with her husband told us that the rooms would be ready...






After we settled a bit, we rode around to see what we could of the town...







































































Excellent Ubication....






__________________
Ged Schwartz
Kamloops , BC


Baja '05 , Baja 06/07 , Baja 08/09 , BC Alpine Single Track




motoged is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2011, 02:17 AM   #78
beemer67
Really Old airhead
 
Joined: Nov 2005
Location: Fish Limb, B.C. Canada
Oddometer: 213
Hi Ged,

Enjoying your RR. I always travel in Mexico with a loaded G/S and generally rough camp everywhere. One of these days I would like to try the lighter way to travel, as you are.

Both have there merits. Keep up with the great pictures. What is your camera?


Chris
beemer67 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2011, 03:53 AM   #79
NLS1
Dirt=Fun
 
NLS1's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Minnesota, USA
Oddometer: 235
Hey Ged,

What a Cool RR, I have really enjoyed it so far. Baja is on the list and gets bumped up a notch every time I see a RR on it. Thanks for all the tips on good spots to eat and stay, very helpful.

Please continue and thanks for taking the time to put it up.

Great pictures by the way!

Dan
NLS1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2011, 09:21 AM   #80
Sandino
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Sandino's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Oddometer: 168
Thumb

Great report!!!, lovely from any ubication
Sandino is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2011, 12:21 PM   #81
KLRUSERIOUS?
Farkle-whore
 
KLRUSERIOUS?'s Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2007
Location: Toronto Ontario Eh?!??
Oddometer: 2,299
Aye caramba!

Have a michelada for me!
KLRUSERIOUS? is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2011, 08:59 PM   #82
tricepilot
El Gran Payaso
 
tricepilot's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2006
Location: San Antonio
Oddometer: 8,298
tricepilot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2011, 10:33 AM   #83
motoged OP
Studly Adventurer
 
motoged's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Location: Kamloops, BC
Oddometer: 865
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sutherngintelmen View Post
I'm settled on the wrong side of our continent - thanks for posting, Ged.

SG,
It's only a few days ride to Baja from almost anywhere in the USA...and just add a few more days from Canada...

Baja is different than mainland Mexico....certainly some similarities, but it has its own thing going on.

I NEVER get tired of it, despite whatever experience I have there. Sometimes I think I have had enough, especially the few times I have spent a month riding there, but within a week I am planning my next ride
__________________
Ged Schwartz
Kamloops , BC


Baja '05 , Baja 06/07 , Baja 08/09 , BC Alpine Single Track




motoged is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2011, 10:38 AM   #84
The Walrus
Gone and back again.
 
The Walrus's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2003
Location: Never Banned
Oddometer: 8,732
Quote:
Originally Posted by motoged View Post
SG,
It's only a few days ride to Baja from almost anywhere in the USA...and just add a few more days from Canada...

Baja is different than mainland Mexico....certainly some similarities, but it has its own thing going on.

I NEVER get tired of it, despite whatever experience I have there. Sometimes I think I have had enough, especially the few times I have spent a month riding there, but within a week I am planning my next ride






Lots of overlap with the trip we just finished..........did you get an FMM? We were never checked......
__________________
Everbody's preachin' at me that we all wanna git to heaven, trouble is, nobody wants to die to git there.-BB King
Reality is what does not go away when you stop believing in it. -Philip K Dick
I wanna be skinny, but my ass is too big. - Charles Barkley
When choosing between two evils, I always like to try the one I've never tried before. - Mae West
Experience is what keeps a man who makes the same mistake twice from admitting it the third time around.
The Walrus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2011, 10:48 AM   #85
motoged OP
Studly Adventurer
 
motoged's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Location: Kamloops, BC
Oddometer: 865
Quote:
Originally Posted by beemer67 View Post
Hi Ged,
Enjoying your RR. I always travel in Mexico with a loaded G/S and generally rough camp everywhere. One of these days I would like to try the lighter way to travel, as you are.
Both have there merits. Keep up with the great pictures. What is your camera? Chris
Chris,
In the days when I took the GS's to Baja, I was geared for camping and quite enjoyed the ability to pick a deserted spot. As I realized I wanted to ride the rougher stuff, I chose the dirt bike approach and traveling with far less gear/weight. A motel and a shower at the end of the day sounds like a good idea most of the time these days

I must admit I have not been able to convince my ride buddies to do the overnight desert camp thing the past several rides as they are more focussed generally on knocking off challenging ride days, whereas I am quite content to also look for a cool place to hang out and do absolutely nothing more challenging than exploring the desert /beach by foot for a day or two, sit by a fire at night, enjoy some intoxicants, and stare up into the gabillion stars and realize how cool it all is.....hmmmmm....sounds like an idea for the next trip.....

My camera is a Panasonic Lumix DMC ZS5.

The majority of the pictures in this RR are from that camera. I have also shamelessly used copies of David's pictures and some from other riders on the trip...David's pictures are also from a Panasonic but I don't know what model. His pictures tend to be the larger ones in this thread and sometimes are "less rich in color" (not criticizing)...

Spring is around the corner, Chris. It would be nice to hook up for a ride this summer...how about that loop from Craigallachie (sp?) north to Seymour Arm?
__________________
Ged Schwartz
Kamloops , BC


Baja '05 , Baja 06/07 , Baja 08/09 , BC Alpine Single Track




motoged is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2011, 10:53 AM   #86
motoged OP
Studly Adventurer
 
motoged's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Location: Kamloops, BC
Oddometer: 865
Quote:
Originally Posted by NLS1 View Post
Hey Ged,
What a Cool RR, I have really enjoyed it so far. Baja is on the list and gets bumped up a notch every time I see a RR on it. Thanks for all the tips on good spots to eat and stay, very helpful.
Please continue and thanks for taking the time to put it up.
Great pictures by the way!
Dan

Dan,
Glad you are enjoying the ride

When you make it to Baja, plan on at least two weeks there....anything less is Ridus Interruptus ... and will just leave you wishing you had more time...
__________________
Ged Schwartz
Kamloops , BC


Baja '05 , Baja 06/07 , Baja 08/09 , BC Alpine Single Track




motoged is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2011, 10:58 AM   #87
motoged OP
Studly Adventurer
 
motoged's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Location: Kamloops, BC
Oddometer: 865
Quote:
Originally Posted by tricepilot View Post
TP,
Judging by your RR's, I take that as a real compliment....it's the people and the images....not just pictures of bikes.

I only wished I lived closer to Mexico so I could have more of it
__________________
Ged Schwartz
Kamloops , BC


Baja '05 , Baja 06/07 , Baja 08/09 , BC Alpine Single Track




motoged is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2011, 11:53 AM   #88
motoged OP
Studly Adventurer
 
motoged's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Location: Kamloops, BC
Oddometer: 865
Day Four (cont'd):

While I am tempted to rant about how cool the La Purisima area is, I will just encourage folks who may plan to ride there to appreciate it is off the usual gringo trail. The Posada del Angel is just that and it is really the only place to stay in the twin towns of San Isidro and La Purisima. David said that he has stayed in a small casa in San Isidro a few years back and recognized it in one of our passes through there, but it may not be a place to count on as much as Posada del Angel.

La Purisima sells gas in two places we saw...they both sell out of barrels and the guy at the east side of town had premium....don't know about the mechanic's place at the west end of town.

After our afternoon picture-fest and walkabout, we realized that there was no place to eat that we could find, despite one tienda owner sending us next door to a home. Their tourist infrastructure seems limited to the motel....and that suits me just fine

I don't need no stinkin' restaurant .....but a taco stand might have been nice. We saw a hot dog stand and what might have been a taco stand, but they both appeared to have not seen business recently...

The valley relies on agriculture and is mostly subsistant in that regard...it ships some produce to communities to the west...

After the realization we would need to make a trip to the tienda across the street for more than beer for supper, we were invited by the owners to join them for dinner....a most gracious gesture that was happily accepted ...

(David's pics...)







Yummmmmm....



The owners of the posada were very accommodating, kind, and proud of their town. While David and I have some ability to understand Spanish, it was one of those times we both wished we were more fluent so as to better honour our hosts' generousity and kindness.

Most of our conversation was with our hostess, Senora Quilthy Peralta , and her husband, Senor Pedro Gonzalez, was proud to say that, although "retired" now, he had been a teacher at the school for thirty years. Quilthy brought out a few photographs taken of the river and El Pilon by Pedro, and she said it was a pity that he was suffering from glaucoma and no longer took photographs. I agreed, as his work was good.



Our dinner was delicious...Quilthy refused to accept any payment for the meal, and we temporarily accepted that condition...and made up for it when we paid for our rooms two days later when we left.

The traditional vibe was making me feel good about hanging around La Purisima...and more time will be spent there next time






David, a new friend, was very easy to get along with and was a good riding companion. He knew how to ride as well as enjoy the lay of the land.



As evening approached, David and I enjoyed ourselves by simply sitting outside our rooms with a cerveza and some conversation. The night sky was clear except for what was very close to a full moon and a gazillion stars....the Milky Way looked like it was as clear as I had ever seen it.

Around 8:00 pm or so a few pickup trucks pulled into the courtyard and four or five men unloaded into their rooms after a day's work. It appeared from their trucks that they worked for either a telephone or electrical company. We collectively nodded acknowledgements and retired to our habitacions por la noche.

Day Five was to be an exploratory ride south to the twin villages of San Jose Comondu and San Miguel Comondu...two of the last "old time" villages left in Baja...

__________________
Ged Schwartz
Kamloops , BC


Baja '05 , Baja 06/07 , Baja 08/09 , BC Alpine Single Track




motoged is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2011, 01:56 PM   #89
motoged OP
Studly Adventurer
 
motoged's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Location: Kamloops, BC
Oddometer: 865
Day Five - La Purisima to Los Comondus and Back:

The plan was to take the easier paved western route to Los Comondus and the more challenging dirt route back....

The morning was clear and we set off each with a few granola bars and full camelbacks...

The ride west out of town was paved and before long we got onto highway #53 coming south from San Juanico. This highway is in good condition and we blasted south for the turnoff at Francisco Villa, where a newly paved road would take us to Comondu. The ride south was about 20 miles or so and I noticed on my GPS a shortcut that we could take that headed east before Francisco Villa. David agreed and we rode along a sweet sandy road infected with the usual babyheads for about 5 miles when I realized I missed a fork in the route and we retraced to that turnoff. This new road immediately appeared less traveled and we decided to follow it until it demonstrated itself to be a poor choice. I led and was finding it to be rideable and fun....so we continued. The day was hot and we were working up a sweat. We stopped for a break and David was not convinced my navigational skills were to be trusted as the double-track had clear remnants of burro tracks, but no evidence of any vehicles being there in some time.



Desert vegetation has a mind of its own...




The road was the right one that my GPS liked and we continued. After a while the trail showed signs of washouts in the past, yet invited us to continue...



We came down into a place where the trail disappeared into a sand wash with evidence of flooding a few years earlier for about a half-mile, but we could see the track resume at the other side where it rose up along a hillside.

I was sort of enjoying the loose deep sand (have I mentioned how much I hate riding in deep sand?) as I was dodging outcroppings of tall grass between the trackless sand....and was likening it to the bunches of Camel Grass the Dakar guys hate....so, I was pretending to be an Adventure Rider Woohoo !!!!

The pace picked up once out of the wash and we ripped along a doubletrack of hard-packed sand until we came up to the paved road heading east to Los Comondus.

David was close behind and made the wry comment that this had not been a "Shortcut", but rather an "Alternate Route"

I did not disagree ....and would ride it again in a heartbeat

The paved road was very new asphalt and was arrow-straight to the east on a gentle roller-coaster series of hills and turns for 30 kms...sweet !!!!

The pavement ended once the open desert had led to a river canyon. The usual dirt road led the next 12 kms along the canyon to San Miguel Commondu.

Rounding one corner, I noticed some burros ahead and was worried when I saw one standing over another at the edge of the road. I first thought that a burro might have been struck by a vehicle or was somehow injured or dead ...



and then was relieved to see the burro laying down was just having a snooze under its mom's watchful eye...



They acknowledged our slow approach with a slower one to the roadside...





Now, don't get me wrong and don't misunderstand me when I say that burros really are kinda cute...and I don't say this as some guy who has been in the desert too long, but they REALLY are kinda cute...




"Honestly, Your Honour, I was just pushing that Burro to the vet!"

A few miles after following the riverbed, the road gained elevation



...and we could look down to the right to the first rancho we had seen since La Purisima over an hour or two ago....the huerta was looking good...





Before long we came upon San Miguel Comondu and slowly rode through it towards San Jose Comondu, several kilometers to the east. The road joining the two communities wound its way along the river through palms and other jungle-type flora...






My plan was to scope out both villages to get some sense of their lay-out and whether there might be a place to eat. While I did not notice any place that looked like it might serve food (sometimes I look for a flat of empty pop or beer bottles outside a door...as that may be an indication the premises is more than a private home...or is one that will prepare a meal for weary travelers )

Riding to the eastern end of San Jose, we turned around by the mission and pulled into the shade by a tienda, where we could get off the bikes and find something to drink...



It was cool inside and we bought a few refrescos and retired to the curb to see what was what...





This place was fantastic !!!!!

Most Excellent Ubication !!!

I wanted to come here as I knew that these two towns were likely the last of the "Old Baja" and had a rich sense of history. I was not disappointed.

As David and I sat on the curb by the tienda, I realized that this was aplace where I wanted to spend several days taking photographs of the old adobe buildings and soaking up the vibe.....next trip .

After a few minutes I noticed a father and his young son approaching the tienda. The dad appeared to be in his thirties and his son was about three. It was touching to see the dad holding his son's hand as the kid kept up. When they came out of the tienda, the boy reached for the plastic bag his dad was carrying and struggled a bit to figure out how to manage it. He let go of his dad's hand, steadied himself, and swung the bag over his shoulder as would any experienced fellow. It brought a smile to my face and warmed my heart to watch the boy proudly shoulder the load and demonstrate his ability....copying what he has learned.

Too precious a moment to invade with a camera

We then decided to meander up the street and see the mission ruins...





The view from the backside...







David brought to my attention that this was not the original mission church, but rather was originally a dwelling adjacent to the mission which, over the years, had been converted into a church. The remnants of the original mission could be found as steps and foundations to many of the town's homes and other buildings....perhaps a better use of hand-carved stone carried on the backs of Indians from the neighboring canyon walls under the merciless direction of missionaries ...







but there is more to see so we cruised around...
__________________
Ged Schwartz
Kamloops , BC


Baja '05 , Baja 06/07 , Baja 08/09 , BC Alpine Single Track





motoged screwed with this post 03-19-2011 at 04:43 PM
motoged is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2011, 05:40 PM   #90
beemer67
Really Old airhead
 
Joined: Nov 2005
Location: Fish Limb, B.C. Canada
Oddometer: 213
Quote:
Originally Posted by motoged View Post
Chris,
Spring is around the corner, Chris. It would be nice to hook up for a ride this summer...how about that loop from Craigallachie (sp?) north to Seymour Arm?
Craigellachie, you were very close. Sure that is always a good ride and some great camping on the north end of Adams Lake. I think we should try it.

Last year was my first ride to Baja in twenty-five odd years and I really enjoyed it. The last seven years I have played in the Copper Canyon area of the mainland and this too has always been enjoyable. But I don't have the benefits of a bus so I need to add three/ four days of riding to each end from BC.

Keep your pictures coming.
Chris
beemer67 is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 01:30 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014