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Old 03-20-2011, 01:31 PM   #91
motoged OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beemer67 View Post
The last seven years I have played in the Copper Canyon area of the mainland and this too has always been enjoyable. But I don't have the benefits of a bus so I need to add three/ four days of riding to each end from BC.

Keep your pictures coming.
Chris
|Chris,
Looking forward to picking your brain about Barranca del Cobre....

More story and pics to come later today
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Old 03-21-2011, 11:05 PM   #92
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Day Five ...(cont'd):

The two Comondus did not appear to offer any "tourist infrastructure", and that suited me fine. There were several small tiendas and those were the only obvious commercial outlets of any type...one would have to spend some time there to see beyond the exteriors and learn how the villages really operate.

This time, all we could take were pictures and memories...

A garden with its own irrigation canal...




Oranges...
















































David and I connected after our drive-by shooting and prepared for the more challenging return route to La Purisima that my buddies had ridden two days earlier, a fact confirmed in a brief conversation with a local regarding the routes viability...



And he looks at me with that "Let's get going look!"




So we found our trailhead and commenced into territory that many predicted was going to be fun...




Within a block around this corner the road became rough and rougher ...and I led the way. The hill we were going up was full of washout ravines and rocks of all sizes. I immediately thought to myself, "Sure as hell hope this gets better..."

After a handful of miles uphill, I stopped to consult the GPS and found that we were headed northeast and we wanted to be going north, so we managed a turnaround and David led back towards a turnoff that might be what we were looking for...



This "wrong road" appeared to pass several ranchos, but after the third, the road was certainly less traveled.

David found the turnoff he noticed earlier and it took us past a bit of a dump or something to this...



I looked at him and asked if he wanted to ride 40 miles of this or the pavement ....he mumbled something that had the word "chicken" in it and some query as to the quality of my masculinity....and, as he was way too big to knock out...I proceeded up the rock trough...The first several hundred yards was the worst at first and it leveled out a bit....and so did I.




A bit later another washout appeared...I stopped for a Kodak moment



and David said we should get going before we got tangled up with the approaching jeep in this trough





The jeep had four locals and it seemed to me it was a sighseeing trip for them...a wave and a nod and we continued along some road that was much more sensible.



The day was hot, it was early afternoon, we had nothing to eat all day except a granola bar for breakfast...we wanted to get back to LP....



At this particular pit stop, there was a large and steep hill immediately to the west, with some type of radio or cell tower on top. We both joked about doing a hill climb, and both knew we were nowhere near wanting a piece of that

...so we pressed on with El Pilon in sight until the road disappeared...



David had already decided to walk this section to pick a route when we saw the tracks where my buddies had come through two days earlier...



David pointed at this, saying it looked like a good detour



After tidying up his tank purse....



he made it look easy

His inseam is about 45 inches, so any dabbing wasn't an issue; mine is 29 inches and dabbing in this stuff for me is a bit sketchier....






Going....




going....



going ......




uh, ....where did Ged go ??






Rather than dropping the bike again...and landing backwards into another thorn bush, I decided to power-walk the bike the next 80 feet to where the road reappeared...






and then leave David in the dust...



Once again, this looked better....onwards to La Purisima ...

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motoged screwed with this post 03-21-2011 at 11:10 PM
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Old 03-21-2011, 11:33 PM   #93
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My riding partner, David, is posting his ride report on the Baja Nomads forum.
So far:

Day One: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=51665

Day Two: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=51729

Day Three: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=51730

Day Four: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=51771

...and more to come
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Old 03-22-2011, 02:24 PM   #94
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you are an exceptionally good rider,for a big ol short and roundish kinda guy! that section was by no means easy- even for us super-fit,incredibly,talented, young-ish pro-ish kind of guy's. and we had pretty well full on dirtbikes as well. you also layout a "FABULOUS" ride report. please sir-may we have some more??
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Old 03-22-2011, 08:57 PM   #95
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Reid,
Thanks for the kudos....more to come tonight....

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Old 03-22-2011, 09:37 PM   #96
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Day Five ...Back to La Purisima:

The hard stuff was behind us and it was downhill for the last 45 minutes to LP. The ride into San Isidro is pretty ... as you go from stark high desert to a verdant valley with date palms and a lot of huertas (gardens)...



At the bottom of this hill and on the left side of the road, we passed an irrigation canal carved into the rock hillside...






David leads the way...




And a local is making good use of the river...



We headed back to the motel after a long day fueled by a granola bar each and a refresco in San Miguel Comondu....we were ready for a tienda supper as we had realized there were no commercial eateries in LP.

The tienda across the street was apparently stocked with fresh produce according to David as he had scouted it out the day before when he was researching sources for cervezas.

We arrived at the motel separately....I think I was first as David arrived with a six-pack as I was getting out of the shower...two opinions as to how to end a ride...

About the same time, a young couple pulled up into the courtyard in a SUV and we had a chance to talk about destinations, roads, and the usual banter. They arranged for a room and we chatted with them before heading to the tienda for supper fixings...

The menu consisted of fresh harina tortillas, chicken baloney, turkey ham
(as David insisted on honouring his carniverous predilections...and somehow considered these to be reasonable facsimiles of meat), tomatoes, avocado, local rancho goat cheese, cucumbers, and some form of "seasoning" (no Mrs, Dash here).

We commandeered a table and set to creating a feast...




David is as good a fabricator as he is a chef



Shortly after we dove into a few rounds of such delectable burritos, our hostess came by and seemed mildly horrified at our comida....and disappointed as she and her husband wanted us to join them for a dinner of fresh fish just brought in from the Pacific.

Que lastima !

Her kindness was appreciated, but our sense of guilt was certainly lost in the bellyful of our own handwrapped dinner.

As David and I sat outside our rooms reviewing the day and finishing the beer, an older local gentleman approached us and began speaking to us....I was not following the gist of his commentary, but David figured out that he was asking us if we wanted him to make us breakfast the next day....and he led David to his home next door to show him where we would have breakfast at 8:30 the next morning....

This is the sort of hospitality and kindness so often found in such circumstances....


As I have mentioned, David is crafting his own ride report on Baja Nomads forum....here is the link for his version ofDay Five...just beware of his tendencies to exaggerate and totally conjure up great distortions....

And I also want to acknowledge again that I have shamelessly bootlegged his photos to add to mine...

http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=51774
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motoged screwed with this post 03-22-2011 at 09:43 PM
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Old 03-22-2011, 09:55 PM   #97
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this RR just draws you in,as you read it. once upon at time,in a magical land,far,far away!! wait a minute, i was there, just a day's ride away from you guy's! baja,me thinks, is the magical ( i still don't know why) part of this story. oh yah i know,that's why like motoged, I'm planning the next trip/ride before I'm done the one I'm on!!
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Old 03-23-2011, 07:13 PM   #98
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Day Six - La Purisima to San Ignacio:

We were up early enough that both eyes were open for our breakfast invitation. David led the way across the street to a simple yard that was full of things that caught our interest. My belly was leading my focus as I was hungry....David was a bit more observant,,,









We were greeted by the gentleman who had invited us the evening before and he motioned towards a table set up for us... and a woman appeared from inside the house with our breakfast...



Breakfast was a delicious combination of soupy frijoles, salad, coffee, freshly-squeezed orange juice, homemade tortillas, and a huge piece of meat, the origins of which were not immediately evident ...



It looked good and tasted even better....and it didn't take long to finish breakfast....



although, I have to admit I left some frijoles on my plate.

The woman was an excellent hostess, and I felt bad for not licking the plate clean, so as to fully demonstrate my enjoyment.



During breakfast we were kept company by their shy daughter...





She had the ability to make that cookie thing seem to last a long time




Not to be outdone by this sweetheart, los gatos were constantly nearby...




hoping for some scraps...



As we sat back to let the meal settle, David had pointed out that he had noticed a fresh hide and a pile of guts as we passed through the courtyard, and we concluded that we had just enjoyed some fresh goat...





During the course of the meal, we noticed an interesting procedure:
one of the men of the family (and I am guessing he was the husband and the fellow who initiated the invitation was the father...?) brought a large can of milk near to where we were sitting and set to fashioning a strainer from a piece of what looked like cheesecloth and a hoop. Now, Mexican ingenuity is fathomless....he took a Y-shaped stick from its place on the wall (this stick would be an excellent wooden portion for a slingshot), and a length of garden hose about 18" long. He made a loop with the hose and inserted an end of each "Y" of the stick into the hose, thus fashioning a hoop with a handle . This created a strainer with a handle, which he then placed over a large basin....and he then proceeded to pour goat milk through the strainer...

He was making cheese....so simple, yet so eloquent a procedure:

David caught it all:


















David got up from the table and banged his head on a support beam...his only injury of the entire trip....his cue-ball bean now had a miserable little scrape....he suffered through it somehow



We paid for breakfast....con una propina...thanked the family...and returned to the motel to start the day's ride to San Ignacio, a half day's ride to the north...




It was a shorter stay than I had initially hoped for, but that gives me purpose to return/

A Dios, Purisima...





The ride west out of town was paved and brisk and we found the dirt road turn-off that would connect us to the primo pavement to San Juanico...about an hour or so to the north...
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Old 03-23-2011, 09:32 PM   #99
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The pavement was good, there was very little traffic, and we pulled into San Juanico and went directly to the fuel depot. More fuel "a la barrel" as is typical of all Baja except the larger towns, where one usually can find a Pemex....which usually has fuel. Sometimes a Pemex will run out of gas or diesel for a few days.

We chatted with a couple of gringo guys who live there, one managing a palapa place along the beach...I have never been there, but have heard a great variety of stories about it...I think they have some rooms and serve food....but someone may correct this info...

David wanted to check out the beach and renowned surf jazz....



I always wanted to surf...

pretty mild day today, though....



As we were anxious to get to San Ignacio, we didn't do much more than watch the surfers for a few minutes and then get some water before leaving town.

We blasted north along the wide washboard road and kicked up a lot of dust.
We had decided to take the higher road as, for some reason, I thought the low road might be muddy....I should have listened to the guys at the fuel depot...they said the low road was good as long as you stayed on the established tracks.

I had been on the high road in '05 and found it to be a good one, so that's the way we went...

The road began to deteriorate within the hour with silt pockets ...



Now, for the unitiated, soft sand is just that....sand like at the beach sometimes mixed with pea gravel and that sort of shit....

Some guys (i.e. good riders who have learned to ride fast in this stuff have learned to trust the gyroscopic tendencies of motorcycles at speed and can "float" on top of the sand and have fun) don't mind deep soft sand....

Have I mentioned how much I hate riding "in" sand ???

Well,,,,silt is WAY worse.... Silt is like talcum powder mixed with soft sand, It hides rocks and ruts, clogs your airfilters, and invariably is THE last stuff you want to ride in...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E2tGU5jYkZU

http://www.channels.com/episodes/sho...2007-Silt-Beds

So, what started out as occasional silt potholes....




....soon turned into sections as seen in the video links above.

David and I stopped for a short break and commiserated...and kept going. He led.

For some reason I had taken the fuel cap off the Safari to see what my level was and everything seemed okay. I rode on for a few minutes and started to smell gas...Before too long I looked down while still riding and saw that my fuel cap was missing and my 4/5ths full tank was sloshing gas all over...WTF

I I stopped and hoped that the cap was somehow lodged somewhere in my gear or bike and not gobbled up in the silt pockets.

No such luck.....I placed my left gloved hand over the tank opening and began to ride back from whence I had come, hoping to hell I would find the cap...after about 300 yards I spotted it laying on some hardpack.

WHEwwwhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I sure felt lucky at that moment, and also real stupid for somehow not tightening the cap after the fuel inspection

By this time David was at least 20 minutes ahead of me and I didn't want to be THAT GUY any more than I already was.

The silt beds increased in frequency and depth....even the detours were deep silt....up to 2 feet in some sections....and those were the ones I waddled through spinning in first and sometimes second....kicking up Hiroshimic clouds of silt dust.


HAve I mentioned how much I hate deep sand AND silt ??????

By this time we were about at the half-way point to San Ignacio...

My memory of this road was different than this section seemed to be now. I figured that it was wetter in '05 and there had been several Baja 1000's stirring this silt up since...

I remembered that the road ahead was in different terrain and I was hoping to get out of these silt beds soon.

I had not fallen yet, but had some close calls...dusty but slogging forward.

After a while I caught up with David who was waiting for me...

He is from New Mexico and has a lot of desert riding experience...and doesn't seem to mind the sand stuff, but I think even he hates silt....



Again, he headed off first and that was fine with me....i don't want some ringer on my tail in these conditions....







We came to a gate across the road at the place where I remembered the terrain getting rockier (i.e. less likely to be silty)....Hell, even deep sand would have been welcomed at this point !!!!

The track to the right of the gate was a long silt bed....David led on and I waited a few minutes for the clouds of dust to subside.

Once I started, it seemed that the going was getting rougher and/or I was getting tired in these conditions...

After about 10 minutes of slopping through the silt I could see a rancho ahead and that was a good sign, I thought....

I was sitting rather than standing as I was using my feet to paddle in some sections....

THAT IS WHEN SHE

SLAPPED ME !!!!!!


I was in love with her...

I respected her and spoke so

well of her to others...

I never abused her and only

held her close to my heart...

My lover, Baja, had abused

me !?!?

I hit something with my front tire which was kicked to the right and I went down hard to my left...the bike was on top of me and my left foot was pointed backwards about 160 degrees.

I knew that this was not a good thing at all !

I couldn't get out from under the bike easily so I brought my right leg over the bars so I could align my hips so that I was facing more in the direction of my left foot....as I thought that would somehow improve the situation.

My mind went to that place it goes to when these things happen....and I new no matter what, I had to get to San Ignacio that day and that was that. I figured that my ankle was broken or at least badly sprained, so I was going to keep the boot on and not inspect my injury before San Ignacio...

It took me a minute or so to extricate myself from the bike blanket...and a few more to get up, lift the bike up, and test my standing ability.

I could stand on it despite the pain so that was good...I got on the bike and saw David waving from about 50 yards away at the rancho.

I got out of the silt bed after another 40 feet or so and pulled up beside David and explained that I had twisted my ankle badly...He asked if I could ride and I said that I had to...let's go !


We stopped there for a bit and David explained to me that the ranchero had presented him with a note, Spanish on one side and English on the other, indicating that their ranch was poor and that they were asking for a donation....that explained the gate across the main road....

We gave him some money...or at least David did, as my focus was on my situation and the mild state of shock I was entertaining. I consulted my GPS and it appeared we were soon to rejoin the main road heading north....I remembered it to be mostly hardpack so I was eager to get going.

All we found was several more miles of unused sandy double-track before we made it to marginally used sandy doubletrack weaving back and forth over more silt and soft sand...I was not anting to have to put my foot down AT ALL as a dab or a sudden stop or fall....so I was slow and cautious ...it may have been wearing on David but I had bigger things to worry about at that point.

After about a half hour or so I caught up with David at a junction at what looked might be where the low road joined our high road...


I SHOULDA TAKEN THE LOW ROAD !

The road widened into a fast washboard and made its way to the junction of the main road south out of San Ignacio and the road to the lagoon where the whale watchers go.

The ride is clear in my mind, but I will keep it short. We tried to make fast time to San Ignacio and it seemed like it took a LOOOOONG time due to my pain and the varying condition of the main rough road and the side sandy road....pick yer poison.

We made it to San Ignacio and it was about 4:00pm

As I approached the bus and to unload before getting a room, I sa a half-dozen bikes at the bus and I was confused...

My buddies were not supposed to be back for another 4 or 5 days. Did they have an accident? DId something go wrong for them??

As I got closer, I recognized them to be another group of friends from Kamloops doing a planned pit stop on their ride. We had brought tires and oil down for them on the bus and it was a coincidence that they were there this day....

A VERY welcomed sight....



All are very strong riders and have been riding Baja for years,,,,some having raced the B 1000....

I got off my bike, expressed my hearfelt happiness at seeing them there, explained my situation, and limped to the office to arrange a room.
I walked,,,or should I say "limped" my bike to the room, unloaded my gear and had a shower. I then went to join the pit crew and grabbed a beer from the bus and sat on the curb watching the guys do their thing...










Shawn Doddington, the fellow I know best in this group, has always been helpful to me both with riding tips as well as his kindness. He saw my swollen ankle and reassured me...."Shit....that looks awful....here are some pain killers."

He gave me enough Tramadol for a few days...

I think they took the edge off, but sure weren't party time

David was kind enough to document the damage....






And my GPS slapped me , too ....




Hell, it can't be that bad....I can limp, on it

I drank some beer, put some ice on it, and told David the next day was a rest day....if I could ride on Sunday (it was Friday), we would continue our planned route up to Bahia Asuncion and visit with friends Juan and Shari and stay at their bed and breakfast.

What else could I do ???




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motoged screwed with this post 07-12-2011 at 01:46 PM
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Old 03-23-2011, 09:54 PM   #100
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Here is David's version of Day Six.... I need to remind you of how sensitive a guy he is,,,,a bit delusional, but sensitive

http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=51816

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Old 03-24-2011, 01:07 AM   #101
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Snow angels don't work quite as well in silt!

Hope you are surviving with the ankle . Not fun at all. I did similar a few years back on my first day into Mex. Dumped in sand and found my foot facing the wrong way under my hard luggage. Looked like yours. Kept riding anyway, but like you it wasn't fun dabbing! When I got back to Canada three weeks later it was still sore, so saw my doctor, got X-ray and found I had broken the fibula. Cast etc.

So if it is still sore by the time you get home I would check it out further.

Chris
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Old 03-24-2011, 05:30 AM   #102
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LMAO, Ged - fine bunch of mates you've go there.

Bruise on heel is tell tale - blood collecting from bone snap. Fook!
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Old 03-24-2011, 10:48 AM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sutherngintelmen View Post
LMAO, Ged - fine bunch of mates you've go there.

Bruise on heel is tell tale - blood collecting from bone snap. Fook!
SG,
It is ironic that that bit of information surfaced on the bus on the way down to Baja

I mentioned that when I saw it but it didn't seem to impress anyone with the severity of my owie

I limped on it and rode for 10 days until before we got back to BC where I got an xray...
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Old 03-24-2011, 02:23 PM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motoged View Post
SG,
It is ironic that that bit of information surfaced on the bus on the way down to Baja

I mentioned that when I saw it but it didn't seem to impress anyone with the severity of my owie

I limped on it and rode for 10 days until before we got back to BC where I got an xray...
Ged, I'm impressed that you continued on. I likely would have wimped out at that point. You're the real deal! Great ride report btw. I've not done Baja yet, but want to before I get too old.
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Old 03-24-2011, 02:41 PM   #105
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Went through that section from the north, SI to SJ........when we completed our slapping, the folks in SJ told us the same story...take the OTHER road.....

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