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Old 03-25-2013, 03:49 PM   #31
akarob
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Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Skuncasville, CT
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Well, mine wouldn't start whether it was in neutral or not. Perhaps your torque limiter is still good enough to work in neutral. The clutch does add a certain amount of drag to the system, even when the bike is warm and the lever is pulled in.

Tightening it is easy once you get it out. About a quarter turn or so will do it. I was even able to re-use the cover gasket, although I had a new one on hand in case it ripped.
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Old 07-09-2013, 05:03 PM   #32
ARZ
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Location: Mesa AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PLATAPUS RIDER View Post
Hello Hodaka Guy,

I ride a 2011 530EXC. I need to remove my inner clutch cover in order to helicoil the stripped out gear oil sight hole. It appears that once I remove the brake lever and kick starter, and loosen the bottom radiator hose from the water pump assembly, the entire cover comes off as one. Is that correct? Do I need to remove the water pump and outer clutch cover first, or can they stay on? You've posted really clear pictures, but it's hard to tell for sure.

My local shop wasn't much help with this. They're reluctant to give advice to a DIY mechanic. Any advice you can give me is appreciated.
I know this is quite a late post, but I solidly solved this issue, so I wanted to share.

Dont bother with a Helicoil, Buy a Timesert set for the proper size fastener. The Previous owner of my 08 was a Gorilla, and retapped that hole out to a 1/4-20, and then drilled out a shitty stainless washer and left the burrs on the inside diameter. Second time I checked the oil, installing that bolt it stripped out with almost NO pressure at all.

I removed the cover from the bike as explained in this thread. Since the 1/4-20 SAE thread was now stripped out, I had even less material to work with. I scuffed and cleaned the inside in the area affected, and I built up the area with JB weld, let it set up a day and drilled and tapped for the proper size Timesert, I had borrowed a Timesert kit and installed the proper threaded insert and VOILA it was fixed.

For those that dont know, a Timesert is similar to a Helicoil, (This is of MUCH HIGHER QUALITY than a helicoil, and much more re-usable) except it is one solid threaded insert, with a very shallow shoulder. The shoulder side goes outboard, and the inside diameter of the Timesert is only fully threaded for the outboard 3/4 of the depth. The final install tool is a thread roll-former style tap, with a slight triangle shape to it. When you thread this tool into the Timesert it stops at the 3/4 depth, then you put locktite on the outside of the Timesert, and install it in your prepped hole. Once the shoulder bottoms out, the roll-former tap starts to create resistance and form the last 1/4 of the inboard threads. This effectivly creates an interference bell shape in the hole and keeps the Timesert in the hole because it has been EXPANDED into the hole on the inboard side. This also keeps the Timesert from backing out as the roll-former tap has created perfect threads and is usually easily removed with your fingers. This creates a MUCH more reusable hole than the Helicoil, and also increases the strength of the original hole.
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Old 08-28-2013, 05:13 PM   #33
vabuckaroo68
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Joined: May 2009
Location: Locust Dale, VA
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2008 450 xcrw

So far tightening the T.L. didn't help. The bolt for the kick starter was seized, so I have to go back in for that eventually with a new shaft. Is it possible the T.L. could wear out? Mine was not very difficult to turn. Does using a Rekluse clutch also solve this?
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Old 08-29-2013, 02:18 AM   #34
akarob
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I tried tightening mine. It didn't work for long. So far the replacement part has been working well.
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Old 08-29-2013, 02:43 AM   #35
vabuckaroo68
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Cool, thanks
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