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Old 03-14-2011, 12:12 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Ben99r1 View Post
I like the front ball bearing roller. For the rear I am using the primary drive chain guide. Its made for a 2000 xr600. One is not offered for the L. It has worked very well for over 10,ooo miles. Spud, I hope you don't mind other suggestions. Her is a link http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/ve...hicleTypeId=2&
I don't mind at all, Ben. Thank you for letting us know about your good experience with the Primary Drive Chain Guide.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/pr...FamilyId=24705

Does this chain guide have three holes, or two?

Spud
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2005 XR650L: Shorai Battery Relocation, Spud Oil Cooler, XR650R C/S Sprocket, Reinforced Subframe, Chain Slipper Roller, Performance Design Lowering Link, Baja Designs Headlight, FMF Hi-Flo Header, ManRacks SD Rack, ManRacks Front Fender Farkle, CST Surge I Front Tire, D952 Rear Tire, Tusk D-Flex Handguards, Uni Air Filter, No-Toil Evolution air filter oil
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Old 03-14-2011, 12:20 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
I don't mind at all, Ben. Thank you for letting us know about your good experience with the Primary Drive Chain Guide.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/pr...FamilyId=24705

Does this chain guide have three holes, or two?

Spud
The outer plate has 3 holes. The inner plate only has two. the chain guide is made for a few bikes. That's why in the pic on the site has 3 holes. Ben
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Old 03-14-2011, 10:48 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
...the small, front chain roller turns easily. ... The smallest, rear chain roller doesn't turn easily...
So Spud, if ya don't mind me asking, what drove you to use a "smallest" roller toward the rear instead of using two "smaller" rollers?
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Old 03-14-2011, 12:03 PM   #19
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So Spud, if ya don't mind me asking, what drove you to use a "smallest" roller toward the rear instead of using two "smaller" rollers?
That's an excellent question, Ono. Utlilizing the previous research of Natey, I believed the "smallest" chain roller would line up best with the chain, and minimize wear on all components. Based upon 100 miles of riding, I have confirmed the "smallest" chain roller is a very good size for the chain roller placed in the rear of the chain guide.

However, I must admit, when I ordered the "smallest" chain roller, I thought it came equipped with a sealed bearing; it does not. Nevertheless, the "smallest" chain roller is doing a perfectly acceptable job. Indeed, the "smallest" chain roller is doing a much better job than the crappy, Honda, chain guide slider. However, upon further reflection, I think four other options might work as well, or better, than using a "smallest" chain roller in the rear of the chain guide.

1) Don't install any chain roller in the rear hole of the XR650L chain guide. This option might prove especially good if you are employing a rear sprocket larger than 45T.

2) Install a second, "small" chain roller in the rear hole of the XR650L chain guide. Since the "small" chain roller is 31 mm in diameter, it only has a radius 3.5 mm larger than the "smallest" chain roller.

3) Drill a new, 5/16-inch hole placed slightly forward, and approximately 2-3 mm lower than the existing rear hole in the chain guide. The lower, more forward placement of the "small" roller will provide the same roller height as the original placement of the "smallest" roller. Also, the forward placement will provide more clearance for larger rear sprockets.

4) Order a TM Designworks, PLR-400 chain roller. This chain roller is more expensive than the Primary Drive chain rollers; however, it employs a sealed bearing, and it has the same dimensions as the "smallest" roller I installed.

The Primary Drive chain rollers are an excellent value, and they are working very well on my XR650L. Since the Primary Drive chain rollers are so inexpensive, I am going to order a second, "small" roller, and experiment with option #2. If I don't like the results, I can always go back to my current configuration, or experiment with option #3.

If one doesn't mind spending the extra money, I'm sure option #4 will work great. Indeed, I am happy with the results I have achieved using the "smallest" chain roller without a sealed bearing. However, a roller with a sealed bearing will turn more easily, and be a bit quieter at slower speeds.

Spud
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Old 03-14-2011, 05:29 PM   #20
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I love your experimental mind, sir Spud. Indeed, we do tend to analyze alike in these types of situations. It is a good thing we aren't neighbors working together or we would be dangerous
What do you think of the idea of two parallel aluminum plates, say 1/8" to 3/16", mounted together through spacers to the swingarm, and then locating "large" chain rollers in the position we deem appropriate in relation to the chain path to the sprocket? Or maybe would the sides really need to be plastic in case they get slapped by the chain as it enters the end? I'm just thinking out loud here....
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Old 03-14-2011, 06:09 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by ONandOFF View Post
I love your experimental mind, sir Spud. Indeed, we do tend to analyze alike in these types of situations. It is a good thing we aren't neighbors working together or we would be dangerous ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by ONandOFF View Post
...What do you think of the idea of two parallel aluminum plates, say 1/8" to 3/16", mounted together through spacers to the swingarm, and then locating "large" chain rollers in the position we deem appropriate in relation to the chain path to the sprocket? Or maybe would the sides really need to be plastic in case they get slapped by the chain as it enters the end? I'm just thinking out loud here....
Looking at the inside of my chain guide, it appears the plastic has taken a bit of a beating. I note the XRs Only chain guides also appear to have plastic inside them. Therefore, I'm inclined to keep the plastic interior.

However, I don't see anything preventing one from attaching aluminum plates to both sides of the stock, plastic chain guard. In this manner you could slightly extend the bottom of the chain guard, providing more area to mount larger chain rollers.

Nevertheless, I think the small, Primary Drive chain rollers are quite sufficient for the job, especially if you employ 2 of them. As a matter of fact, I'm quite confident a single, small, Primary Drive chain roller is sufficiently robust for this application. I think the rear roller might prevent a little chain slap near the sprocket, but I'm not so sure the rear roller is even necessary. Therefore, I believe my current configuration, with the "smallest," delrin roller at the rear of the chain guide is completely sufficient.

I wouldn't be surprised if my rear, delrin roller develops very little, or no additional wear. I think the Primary Drive chain roller in the front of the chain guide is doing the lion's share of the work, and it is doing a very good job at that!

Spud
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Old 03-14-2011, 08:47 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
...I think the Primary Drive chain roller in the front of the chain guide is doing the lion's share of the work...
I don't know, Spudman, but my intution tells me otherwise. It would seem that the roller closest to the sprocket would be getting the most force against it, as it is raised from the straight line that would connect the two sprockets. On my 48T rear, there's quite a lift angle between the chain engaging the sprocket through the guide and where a taut chain would engage, putting a downward force on the rear of the guide, most notably during deceleration. I believe that force, and the additional friction of the rear roller in your installation, accounts for the noticeably greater wear than indicated on the frontmost one. Again, this is a hunch, or a swag; measurements and/or evidence would be needed to make it a claim
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Old 03-14-2011, 11:53 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by ONandOFF View Post
I don't know, Spudman, but my intution tells me otherwise. It would seem that the roller closest to the sprocket would be getting the most force against it, as it is raised from the straight line that would connect the two sprockets. On my 48T rear, there's quite a lift angle between the chain engaging the sprocket through the guide and where a taut chain would engage, putting a downward force on the rear of the guide, most notably during deceleration. I believe that force, and the additional friction of the rear roller in your installation, accounts for the noticeably greater wear than indicated on the frontmost one. Again, this is a hunch, or a swag; measurements and/or evidence would be needed to make it a claim
Indeed, I mounted the "smallest" chain roller in the rear of the chain guide to minimize excessive wear. I believe the greater wear on my smallest chain roller is caused by its delrin construction, as well as its increased resistance to rotate.

I believe one could safely eliminate the rear roller in the chain guide. The poster in the following thread modified his XR650R chain guide to contain a single, "small" chain roller. He chose to mount the chain roller in the rear position because of his very wide, 5-inch rim.

http://www.xr650rforum.com/t721-xr-chain-guide-mod

The gentleman at the following website appears to be running two of the "small" chain rollers in his XR650L chain guide, and he claims he has had no problems.

http://www.gasgastalk.com/xr650l.htm

In the last instance, lowering, and/or moving the rear chain roller forward would lessen the abuse it receives.

Spud
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Spud Rider screwed with this post 03-15-2011 at 12:36 AM
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Old 03-15-2011, 07:45 AM   #24
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Excellent info, Spud
This is the first m/c I've had with a chain guide so I'm taking a while to come up to speed on it. I greatly appreciate your kindness and tenacity. When I get around to messsin' with mine, I'll be sure to keep you posted. In the meantime, I'll be keeping my and on you!
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Let's ride!!! - No offense, but there've been a lot of people over time who were just as sure, yet got it wrong. - Una necedad, aunque la repitan millones de bocas, no deja de ser una necedad. - "you know that I could have me a million more friends and all I'd have to lose is my point of view" (Prine)
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Old 03-15-2011, 10:19 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by ONandOFF View Post
Excellent info, Spud
This is the first m/c I've had with a chain guide so I'm taking a while to come up to speed on it. I greatly appreciate your kindness and tenacity. When I get around to messsin' with mine, I'll be sure to keep you posted. In the meantime, I'll be keeping my and on you!
You're welcome, OnO. Thank you for your constructive feedback. Please do keep us posted on your experiments, and their results. I intend to continue adding miles, and wear to my chain rollers; I also intend to continue reporting my findings in this thread.

Spud
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2005 XR650L: Shorai Battery Relocation, Spud Oil Cooler, XR650R C/S Sprocket, Reinforced Subframe, Chain Slipper Roller, Performance Design Lowering Link, Baja Designs Headlight, FMF Hi-Flo Header, ManRacks SD Rack, ManRacks Front Fender Farkle, CST Surge I Front Tire, D952 Rear Tire, Tusk D-Flex Handguards, Uni Air Filter, No-Toil Evolution air filter oil

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Old 03-31-2011, 10:02 PM   #26
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Today I inspected my chain guide rollers after 1,000 miles of wear. Here is a photograph of the front roller.



Here is a photograph of the rear roller.



Here is a photograph of both rollers.



I believe the size selection for these chain guide rollers is very close to ideal, and I am pleased with their wear after 1,000 miles. The bolt for the rear roller had loosened a little, but it was still securely attached to the chain guide. Based upon these promising results, I am going to keep the current configuration, and I am not going to experiment with two "small" chain rollers in the chain guide.

The chain roller I substituted for the chain slipper looks almost new. I believe this roller is perfectly sized for this application.

So far, I am very pleased with this chain roller modification to my XR650L. I will post another update after I add more miles to these chain rollers.

Spud
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Old 04-01-2011, 08:45 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
...I am not going to experiment with two "small" chain rollers in the chain guide. ...
Perhaps when the current "smallest" wears out?

Looking great, Spud; thanks for the update!

Great upside-down macro shots too, btw
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Old 04-09-2011, 11:09 PM   #28
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Perhaps when the current "smallest" wears out?

Looking great, Spud; thanks for the update!

Great upside-down macro shots too, btw
Thank you, OnO.

Today I removed my chain guide rollers and inspected them after 1,500 miles of wear. Here's a photo of the port side of the rollers.



Here's a photograph of the front side of the rollers.



The roller I installed to replace the chain slipper appears almost new, with practically no wear whatsoever.



Now that the rollers of the drive chain are contacting the chain rollers, I expect the wear to slow down considerably. I will keep you updated as my chain rollers accumulate more miles of wear.



Spud
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Old 04-11-2011, 03:05 PM   #29
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I'm glad I ran across this, I just checked the wear on my chain slider and it was GONE! I ordered from Motosport.com so I ended up with an All Balls XR400r roller for the rear and a 42mm Turner roller for up on the countershaft sprocket.
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Old 04-11-2011, 11:25 PM   #30
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I'm glad I ran across this, I just checked the wear on my chain slider and it was GONE! I ordered from Motosport.com so I ended up with an All Balls XR400r roller for the rear and a 42mm Turner roller for up on the countershaft sprocket.
I'm glad I could help. Do you plan to omit the "smallest" chain roller at the rear of the chain guide? If so, please let us know how this omission affects wear on the other chain rollers.

Spud
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