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Old 03-18-2011, 06:11 PM   #16
markymcd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Morrison View Post
Hi,

It seems to me, that the strength of the skid plate and its ability to protect the underside of the engine is limited to the strengths of it's mounting points. If you make the skid plate too strong, it quits protecting the oil pan, and just lowers the ground clearance by transmitting impact forces through the mounting bolts.

Just saying, Tom
that's why the mounting bolts are mostly rubber. but believe me it takes a lot of force to shear them off and they absorb most of the impact.
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Old 03-19-2011, 07:31 AM   #17
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skid marks

MOD plate. I have a destroyed BMW for sale cheap.

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Old 03-29-2011, 05:31 PM   #18
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just wanted to say "thanks" to everyone for the great advice on some products i wouldn't have found out about (without a lot of research).

you guys rock!
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Old 03-30-2011, 08:56 AM   #19
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That's a big Negative the MOD protects the oil cooler there is just enough room to remove the oil filter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by markymcd View Post
Most of the good bash plates you have to remove to do an oil change. It's no big deal... did my own oil change last weekend and it's a snap. If you get one that allows you to take the filter off without removing the plate you will also be leaving your oil cooler exposed to damage which is easier than you may think considering the 2 hoses that go in and out of it.

If you need to do a quick drain and fill (and leave the current filter in) the MOD has a cutout so you can remove the drain plug.
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Old 03-30-2011, 10:22 AM   #20
markymcd
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Originally Posted by puckinet View Post
That's a big Negative the MOD protects the oil cooler there is just enough room to remove the oil filter.
Sure but I'm not sure if you've done an oil change yet. no matter how much oil you drain out of your plug I doubt you'd want to risk getting oil on the plate and getting nice and smoky and stinky after your engine gets nice and hot again.

Good god folks, is it really that much trouble to take the 2-5 minutes to take off your skid plate?

I think the more wrenching you do on your bike the better cuz you're gonna need to have the skills when you're in the middle of nowhere scratching your head when you're out of cell phone range to have your bike towed away.
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Old 03-30-2011, 11:48 AM   #21
mefly2
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Don't over look the Wunderlich plate ... some nice features and easy install ...
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Old 03-30-2011, 12:05 PM   #22
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I will give you one more and explain why I chose it. http://www.hyderacing.com/adventure_bikes.htm


It is a polymer skid plate, making it both light and slick. The weak spot in all of these skid plate are the attachment mounts. Any of them can be torn from the bike with a solid enough hit in the right place. This plate is a form fit, so there is more ground clearance. I thought if you can go over a rock instead of hitting it that is better than armor.

I did have a concern over a puncture caused by landing on a sharp rock, so I added a 1/16 plate of aluminum on the underside. I raised it in front to provide more rigidity, lengthened it and drilled 2 more mounting holes between the engine block and crash bars.




Based on the scars on the bottom it has worked well. It is rigid enough to use as a jacking point without any flex. Might be something to consider if you have ground clearance concerns.
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Old 03-31-2011, 07:01 PM   #23
toowheels
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsatdm View Post
I will give you one more and explain why I chose it. http://www.hyderacing.com/adventure_bikes.htm


It is a polymer skid plate, making it both light and slick. The weak spot in all of these skid plate are the attachment mounts. Any of them can be torn from the bike with a solid enough hit in the right place. This plate is a form fit, so there is more ground clearance. I thought if you can go over a rock instead of hitting it that is better than armor.

I did have a concern over a puncture caused by landing on a sharp rock, so I added a 1/16 plate of aluminum on the underside. I raised it in front to provide more rigidity, lengthened it and drilled 2 more mounting holes between the engine block and crash bars.




Based on the scars on the bottom it has worked well. It is rigid enough to use as a jacking point without any flex. Might be something to consider if you have ground clearance concerns.
Neat work on the re-enforcement there itsatdm!

Do they run a front bracket on that plate? I don't see one.

I agree on the weak lower mounting points...the breakaway bolts.

That's why we have a stronger front bracket than most...if not all:



It takes a lot of the stress of the minor impacts off the breakaway mounts. It also depends on the angle of the impact. If it's straight on some plates with a front mount will do OK. On an angle is where many will be weaker and the breakaway mounts will break. Ours is a fair bit stronger and it has shorter arms than others I've seen. However it is not too strong that it won't break under a major impact so it's still sacrificial in the line of duty, protecting your engine.
That combined with the front shallow "angle of attack" and completely smooth underbelly right back to the cat works well for us.

Dave
P.S Thanks everyone for all the posts of happy MOD users!
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Old 04-01-2011, 08:12 AM   #24
Motoriley
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Smokin'

I learned that you have to do the oil change with the bike on the side stand or the skid plate will hold a lot of oil.

Quote:
Originally Posted by markymcd View Post
Sure but I'm not sure if you've done an oil change yet. no matter how much oil you drain out of your plug I doubt you'd want to risk getting oil on the plate and getting nice and smoky and stinky after your engine gets nice and hot again.

Good god folks, is it really that much trouble to take the 2-5 minutes to take off your skid plate?

I think the more wrenching you do on your bike the better cuz you're gonna need to have the skills when you're in the middle of nowhere scratching your head when you're out of cell phone range to have your bike towed away.
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04 Toyota Sienna, new wipers for 2011!!
Electricity (120 AC), Indoor Plumbing, new kitchen tap for 2010!!!
Color tube TV, Microwave Oven (yes she rotates!),Washer & Dryer,Paved Driveway,
Website - http://www.apormc.com/
Vids - http://www.youtube.com/user/Motoriley?feature=mhum
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Old 04-01-2011, 11:07 AM   #25
itsatdm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toowheels View Post
Neat work on the re-enforcement there itsatdm!

Do they run a front bracket on that plate? I don't see one.

I agree on the weak lower mounting points...the breakaway bolts.

That's why we have a stronger front bracket than most...if not all:



It takes a lot of the stress of the minor impacts off the breakaway mounts. It also depends on the angle of the impact. If it's straight on some plates with a front mount will do OK. On an angle is where many will be weaker and the breakaway mounts will break. Ours is a fair bit stronger and it has shorter arms than others I've seen. However it is not too strong that it won't break under a major impact so it's still sacrificial in the line of duty, protecting your engine.
That combined with the front shallow "angle of attack" and completely smooth underbelly right back to the cat works well for us.

Dave
P.S Thanks everyone for all the posts of happy MOD users!

That is a very nice looking plate. No the Hyde plate does not have a front mounting bracket. I thought of adding one, but chose to just drill additional mounting holes in the plate and clamping the plate between the crashbars and engine block. Looks kind of wimpy but actually pretty strong. I have 9 5/8" of clearance at the lowest point on my 800, I just stay off trails that have rocks taller than that.

That was said in jest, but I evaluated where I was going to ride a 500# bike with poor suspension and decided this would do the job.
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