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Old 05-19-2011, 09:53 AM   #106
LFD Kansas
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Looking forward to following this one. I just found a matador as well.
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Old 05-19-2011, 10:48 AM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buls4evr View Post
Looks good so far. One of the difficult parts yet to come is that fiberglass(if you want to call it that) original tank. They leaked BRAND NEW right at the first gas fill in 68! My advice would be a new one or a plastic replacement. Do not spend money on a paint job then find out that it leaks like a sieve! A nice project going so far and you have the right attitude about restorations. Prices can get stupid only if you let them. Very few people know correct anyway and you just don't say "original" if it's not. But most don't care. They see your practicality. That was a good tip on moving the condensor into the open and doubling all the grounds too. I would add to put stover or nylock nuts on parts you don't want to fall off. Have fun. I look forward to this thread.
You can fix the leaks by a tank coating.
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Old 06-14-2011, 08:12 AM   #108
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Update (with no pics )

I've got the motor back in the frame and everything all hooked up! There are some issues preventing me from starting it up... of course. I found TDC with my neat little gauge and marked it on the flywheel/cases (there isn't a factory mark.) I have the points gap set proper when fully open. The tricky part is I don't really know how to time it. Why, you ask? Well, you have to leave the flywheel on in order for the points to open and close. There are small windows in the flywheel to get to the points but they don't show the full motion of the open/close so I can't really get a nifty bulb tester in there.
Solution would be to use an Ohm meter and check continuity from the leads coming off but I can't seem to get continuity on all the wires.
Next issue is that, well, I should go ahead and build my own harness. I was getting a reading from my coil (so I guess it was working) but when I put everything together and give it a kick or two, I get no spark from the plug (yeah it's grounded against the head for the test.)

Any electrical suggestions on timing it and maybe things to look for with the lack of spark? I'll get pics up of all the wiring (there's only like 7 wires total, shouldn't be rocket science.)

Oh, I've got a lead on an old Husky too...going to go check that out this saturday
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Old 06-14-2011, 10:33 AM   #109
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Setting the timing sounds similar to old Italian scooters. The tools we use are a little buzzer to alert you to when the gap's open (substitute for the timing light), and a degree wheel with a little piece of bent wire to mark the degree.

This might help you. http://www.scooterhelp.com/tips/timi...ts.timing.html
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Old 06-14-2011, 10:35 AM   #110
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Originally Posted by east high View Post
Setting the timing sounds similar to old Italian scooters. The tools we use are a little buzzer to alert you to when the gap's open (substitute for the timing light), and a degree wheel with a little piece of bent wire to mark the degree.

This might help you. http://www.scooterhelp.com/tips/timi...ts.timing.html
Convenient that I own a 63 vespa GL and one of those wheels to time it. I need to drive 2 hours to get it though -_- doh!
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Old 06-14-2011, 11:33 AM   #111
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Just download the pdf, tape it to some cardboard with packing tape and cut around the circumference. That's what I did.
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Old 06-14-2011, 07:59 PM   #112
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Looks like I get 1-2 volts at the spark plug wire when I give it a light hand kick. Does that seem about right? I may just have a very old, bad spark plug because I'm still not seeing spark.
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Old 06-16-2011, 08:30 AM   #113
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Well, first crank will be tonight hopefully!
So the question still remains...I'm not getting spark (new plug now) but I'm getting 1-2 volts on the meter when I hand turn the kick over. Should it start getting spark with a heavier kick maybe?

Also, we just added an Alpina to the herd last night, the brother bought it :)
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Old 06-16-2011, 07:47 PM   #114
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Based on my Sherpa T, the correct timing will be a distance before TDC, not a degrees before TDC, even though in Theory they are the same.

You need one of these.


I imagin this is because a distance is harder to get wrong, and this is easier than fitting a degree wheel to the flywheel.

From what I have found out about Bultaco's so far, is everything fits everything else, with little difference between models, this is the points cam of my Sherpa T.



I had to do some "fitting" to get the backing plate to slide like it should, but after that it was a breeze.

BTW, I have just bought a Montesa Cota 348 '78, and am looking forward to see how similar in mirror image the "home" of Bultaco is to actual Bultaco.
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Old 06-24-2011, 10:09 AM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blaine.hale View Post
Well, first crank will be tonight hopefully!
So the question still remains...I'm not getting spark (new plug now) but I'm getting 1-2 volts on the meter when I hand turn the kick over. Should it start getting spark with a heavier kick maybe?

Also, we just added an Alpina to the herd last night, the brother bought it :)
To check the right timing you HAVE to used the TDC method with a gauge
as already mentioned by andy-Gadget.

BEFORE you check the timing of the ignition you will have to check your points.

Distance between the points has to be 0,4mm nothing less ore more!

The points have to be in a very good status, the surfaces has to bee cklean und perfectly
aligned to each other, if not you can try to get a point file and grind them
carfully, if this does not help replace them.

Another classical issue, is the ignition coil proper connected to the frame?
You did a paint job to the frmae, have you cleaned the backplate of the
mounting bracked of your ignition coil and also grind away any paint where
the coil bracket is mounted to the frame? If not do it. You can use
"never-seize" or similar to avoid any corrosion anyhow there MUST be a
good electrical connection.

Another classical isuue is the plug cap connection between the plug cap und
the ignition coil wire! get this connection soted if not, in case you already lost
some innere wires and they lhave a patina look, shorten the wire a 10mm
and then there is again a good connection.

Many capacitators loose "power" with the time, it's always good to replace
him when he is old, this is a two - three $ and some cent part nothing to
bother about.

congratulation for the Alpina, pic's?
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Old 06-24-2011, 01:43 PM   #116
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also, relocate the capacitor into the airflow - up by the tank. i run a spare ground wire from the stator plate to the ignition coil. had a motoplat and a femsa not fire till i ran the extra wire.... you gotta use a dial indicator. any other way will be inaccurate. if you plan on working on any other 2 strokes, you'll soon learn the dial indicator is your friend. on points ignition you can use a multimeter - that way you can see the resistance change when the points open and check your dial indicator.
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Old 06-27-2011, 09:57 PM   #117
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Ok, I gave it another shot. I cleaned some connections. Replaced some wires and....nothing.
Waited a few days (beating your head against a wall is not healthy) and attacked it again. This time I simply took a strike pad from a match book and cleaned the points. VOILA! We have a healthy blue spark and around 16volts per kick on the starter
Unfortunately, spark alone, does not start a bike. I thought I had fuel and air sorted...but I may need to recheck that due to the gas tank being cruddy and probably getting junk fuel despite filters.
After about 30 minutes of kicking in vein, I retired for the night. I'll work on cable adjustments tomorrow and the clutch as well. I need to order a float needle (I don't have one at all) and clean the fuel system a little better. Maybe I'll get it cranked before heading to st. augustine this weekend? (I doubt it but I'll try!)
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Old 06-28-2011, 04:30 AM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blaine.hale View Post
Ok, I gave it another shot. I cleaned some connections. Replaced some wires and....nothing.
Waited a few days (beating your head against a wall is not healthy) and attacked it again. This time I simply took a strike pad from a match book and cleaned the points. VOILA! We have a healthy blue spark and around 16volts per kick on the starter
Unfortunately, spark alone, does not start a bike. I thought I had fuel and air sorted...but I may need to recheck that due to the gas tank being cruddy and probably getting junk fuel despite filters.
After about 30 minutes of kicking in vein, I retired for the night. I'll work on cable adjustments tomorrow and the clutch as well. I need to order a float needle (I don't have one at all) and clean the fuel system a little better. Maybe I'll get it cranked before heading to st. augustine this weekend? (I doubt it but I'll try!)
A good idea to clean the gas tank, I personal would also clean the pet cock if you haven't done this already. I also would use a new fuel line, new packings /seals for the carb clean all jets to perfection and look after that all connection between carb and manifold or airbox are thight. I also would use a new air filter and of course a new fresh plug, use one with a broad temperature range, the engine works best with this kind of plug's.
Champion is good, very good works LODGE, they are still available in the UK.

To get the bike started I first get the piston slightly befor compression and them give the kickstarter a hard but short kick, no gas on throttle.
Use some tickle or choke if the engine is cold.

The motor should start then at first kick, then take out choke direclty thereafter, hold on some gas by hand if necessary a minute or so now
she is ready.

Use premium gas, 98 oktane and very good two stroke oil.
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Old 06-28-2011, 06:02 AM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blaine.hale View Post
I need to order a float needle (I don't have one at all) and clean the fuel system a little better.
no float needle? how are you stopping it from flooding the bottom end/gas running all over the place ???

carb needs to be clean - especially the pilot circuit if you want it to start...

make sure throttle cable is not too tight, and allows the slide to return all the way back to idle stop screw.


not sure which carb you have, but if you do have a working float needle, the starting procedure for all of mine is this:

for cold engine:
tickle carb till you see the float bowl gasket get wet/tiny drip of fuel out of bottom of carb (or if you have a choke carb, choke it.), push kicker over a few times to prime bottom end. then give it a solid kick. you may or may not need to hold throttle wide open when you kick it.... some 2 strokes need a rapid succesion of kicks to build up cylinder/crankcase pressure. i've not found this an issue on bultacos...

although they say
fuel+air+spark=start. not really. fuel+air+timing+compression=start is more like it.


if your timing is right, it should start. if not, it'll kick back through the kick lever, backfire out the carb, or it just won't start...

when hot it should start easily with just a kick or 2.


quality 2 stroke oil is a must. premium gas (93) - pschrauber is in europe - his 98 is our 93 i believe.

is your plug getting wet? also, after your first start, you're gonna foul the plug probably right away. freshly rebuilt motor, all the assembly lube/oil/etc will foul the plug right away.... brand new rebuilds usually kill a plug or 2.
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stainlesscycle screwed with this post 06-28-2011 at 06:32 AM
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Old 06-28-2011, 06:57 AM   #120
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Maybe blaine.hale's Bultaco has this old IRZ carb, the predecessor of the Amal carb's where I have no knowledge about. I only heard some rumors that this type of carb is a nightmare, but this is Chinese whispers, so I also might be totally wrong in this matter.
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