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Old 04-08-2011, 02:59 PM   #46
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Vast expanses.
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Old 04-08-2011, 03:01 PM   #47
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Met this crazy American expat as we were leaving Botswana. Hell of a rear rack on that 660R!!! Said he lives in Botswana and tours around the country on it.
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Old 04-08-2011, 03:09 PM   #48
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The Renazco seat is incredible. Only after 12 hours in the saddle do we start to really get fidgety. I tip my hat to James and his handiwork - I have never sat on something more comfortable on a bike.

We cross into Namibia after the border crossing shut down thanks to my GF's dogged insistence. She convinced the immigration official that was leaving for a big night on the town to reopen and process us. Then she opened the door to Namibia - literally - walked into the country, found the Namibian staff that was already well on their way to being drunk, and convinced them to process us and let us through. I couldn't believe it.

On the dirt road after the crossing into Namibia we were treated to a view of a herd of sable antelope.

Then we stopped for water at this bear-man's gas station/house where he served us tap water in a used wine bottle that was mixed with homemade syrup, which was pulled out of an unplugged drink freezer full of transistors and imported salami. Behind him, his buddy and an assistant with blood all over his shirt (he also runs a butchery - or so he told us) are tapping a propane canister while smoking.

We figured that if the 20 minutes in that room didn't kill us, nothing would. Bear-man was really nice, though. He also told us not to cross the Caprivi Strip at night because elephants would kill us.

We didn't cross the Caprivi Strip at night.
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Old 04-08-2011, 03:11 PM   #49
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Oil change the following morning.
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Old 04-08-2011, 03:12 PM   #50
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Bear man not kidding. Bear man serious.
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Old 04-08-2011, 03:13 PM   #51
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Livingstone Falls from the Zambian side. We leave the laser scanners at the register, smooth tarmac, and more modern southern Africa and begin our return to the east Africa we know and love.
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Old 04-08-2011, 03:16 PM   #52
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After almost four weeks of riding with inadequate eye protection (H&M leopard print sunglasses) thanks to stolen goggles, her eyes can no longer take it. They are swollen, infected, and burn. We stop off at this shop in Lusaka just before it closed for the day and buy a helmet with a visor!
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Old 04-08-2011, 03:18 PM   #53
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We share the road for two days with this South African rider heading to Dar es Salaam from Johannesburg.
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Old 04-08-2011, 03:21 PM   #54
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I had to post this solely because everyone at this gas station remembered Aurel and his friend. They got to talking to me about them because they recognized the fact that we ride the same bikes!!

Also we love taking pictures of fun signs...
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Old 04-08-2011, 03:22 PM   #55
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And Zambia has great signs. Saw this one in Mpika as we were looking for antibiotics for GF's eyes.
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Old 04-08-2011, 03:26 PM   #56
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After the worst night of our lives at the Melodies Lodge in Mpika (bedbugs again, filthy sheets, prostitutes cackling outside the door, blaring music, flourescent light brighter than the sun streaming through the window, water dripping slowly into a pail, and the stench of an overflowing latrine) - we get out of bed at 5 a.m. after failing to sleep a wink and take on our last of three massive days crossing Zambia on the Great Old North Road (desolate but good condition).

We are cheered up in a big way by this wrapping paper eatery where we drink tea and eat stale biscuits. She managed to have everything in there match. Loved it.
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Old 04-08-2011, 03:28 PM   #57
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The spare fuel can we picked up in Namibia is a blessing as we reenter Tanzania and head for the coast. We rely on it numerous times. We kept the D909 just in case and it proved useful for storing crap.

Although I still owe GF a pair of Havaianas...those don't stay in there very well...
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Old 04-08-2011, 03:29 PM   #58
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Great curves through the Udzungwas in Tanzania.
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Old 04-08-2011, 03:32 PM   #59
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After crossing Mikumi National Park in the dark, dodging all sorts of antelope and elephants. We were so concerned with not spending another night like the one at Melodies lodge that we decided to push on. Not a great call because night fell on us in the park and visibility was very poor. Also, we never found the hotel that was recommended to us and had to push on for almost four hours on very dangerous two-lane roads flooded with truckers and drunk drivers.

Lesson learned.

But it was still kinda fun...
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Old 04-08-2011, 03:40 PM   #60
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I don't even remember how long that day ended up being but it was well over 14 hours. We ended up at this place, our last option at 10:30 at night, after realizing that one motel was actually a whorehouse, ditching someone that led us down a narrow dirt road in the pitch black claiming that there was a hotel there, and actually contemplating setting up a tent somewhere in a town that was no more than a trucker's crossing, late at night on a Friday - on payday.

SKETCHY.

But this place, with its greasy chips, synthetic sheets, shattered bathroom, and driveway cobbled together with stolen chunks of highway asphalt was an absolute godsend.
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