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Old 03-26-2011, 07:25 AM   #1
agspecialties OP
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Norfolk, NE
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Getting started in Trials

I have beening riding for years. I ride a lot of tight single track all over. Ride several events a year.
For that last couple of years, i have been kicking around a trials bike. Thought it would help my balance out even better. Just thought it would help me be a better all around rider.
Last year i hooked up with a group of trials riders at their riding area. Boy did they school me on my woods bike. After that i was hooked. Been looking now for the right bike. Found one and am planning on going down and picking it up.
I am a bigger rider, stand a little over 6 foot tall and am a stock fit 300 lbs.... Football days...
Found this for a great price.

What do you guys think of this bike? other question, is first learning how to balance the bike and clutch and throttle control, what other things do you first start to work on?
Thanks
Ag
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Old 03-26-2011, 08:02 AM   #2
lamotovita
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First thing you should do is work on the suspension. At your weight it will be a challenge to get it stiff enough for you. After that start going to the local events. No matter how good a rider you are you should start in the Novice class and move up gradually. The novice sections are designed to teach you the things you need to know to move up the ladder.
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Old 03-26-2011, 08:53 PM   #3
Pro_Marinero
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Two things:

Call Cannon Racecraft in Tulsa and talk to Tony. They twisted up a custom fatbutt spring for my TXT321 and hopefully they still have the specs. I run about 285 with all of my long-distance trail riding gear (boots/helmet/t-shirt/gloves/30 lb. pack with fuel, water, tools). Made a BIG difference.

Second, work on getting that silencer offset as much as possible. You'll be working the suspension hard with your weight and the tire will wear a hole in the side of it. Use some spacers. I can take some pics later of what I did, but I'm not home now.

Look into getting the Ryan Young video too. Good starting point for practice techniques.
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Old 03-27-2011, 10:31 AM   #4
Kjharn
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Nice bike, Aaron. I've always wanted a trials bike, myself. Some day.
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Old 03-28-2011, 11:50 AM   #5
Sting32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro_Marinero View Post
Two things:

Call Cannon Racecraft in Tulsa and talk to Tony. They twisted up a custom fatbutt spring for my TXT321 and hopefully they still have the specs. I run about 285 with all of my long-distance trail riding gear (boots/helmet/t-shirt/gloves/30 lb. pack with fuel, water, tools). Made a BIG difference.

Second, work on getting that silencer offset as much as possible. You'll be working the suspension hard with your weight and the tire will wear a hole in the side of it. Use some spacers. I can take some pics later of what I did, but I'm not home now.

Look into getting the Ryan Young video too. Good starting point for practice techniques.
Pro has lots of great info, he's been there done that!

I got some Ill share too!

Them older TXT's This 2000 you have, or it might be that it was the 1999 models, that was the year that they changed the design on the shock. the shocks (with its specific spring) interchange, but one shock has a tapered spring (that is the new style) and the older shocks have non tapered. you will HAVE to know which one you have! Non tapered springs could be found on a pampera, and other offroad bikes from gasgas, which will be stiffer. Not sure on any other sources, but promarinaro, hunted for a while for one.

I was creeping ever closer to 280lbs, & ride trials competitively for many years. I wrote a post which is a guide to getting into trials, (yep that is the name of the post). It should be a decent read.

clutch/throttle control, this will be on-going throughout your trials career. I still work on it.

Ok, well, main thing is to get practice controlling the bike inside a marked area, for turns, at very slow speeds! Trials training center has some beginner vids, youtube has a lot of vids, many are spectacular "near Pro" riders, there are few beginner ones, but they are out there. But I think a LOT of information (to some it is just TMI) could be added via voice-overs, and are needed in these videos, expressing some of the hints or nuances we're working on, RYP's vids are good, some assume you can ride Novice well. His advanced Techniques is for better than amature, IMHO, but can work for anyone say good amature, but you wont need some of the big stuff he shows, in amature of course.

I really want to make a beginner to 3 or 4 stage video to upload up here or youtube... But, I need people to train, and I need the time. Seems all the above I am short on lol. was supposed to happen last wed. It is supposed to happen though, with some guys to train sooner than later this summer. hope to vid and edit then post, I think it would/could help a lot of people on here to see the "process" as it were.

Course I get stage fright, sound like a DORK on video I am positive.

Ill edit this later when I have more time,.

Ok in the front, you can probably call someone like Adrian at http://www.lewisportusa.com/ these springs on that 2000, are nothin' like we have now, but you still might be able to track down stiffer ones.

In those old gasgas, if I was able to stretch on the old springs if more than slightly, by hand then they arent much good anymore, I think. but you can add pre load to these by getting these apart (gasgas.com has links to videos on Utube, about working on forks). They come apart as a "cartridge" and one side is rebound dampening the other is compression dampening, and both have springs. so you notice there is a peice of PVC type plastic in there. Stock spec is in the video I believe, you can replace that PVC with "your own" PVC up to say 1/2 to 1 inch longer one. keep the old one, give it away with bike when you move up a bike.) 1/2 inch on both sides adds a bunch honestly, to good springs. Notic which one fights being pulled apart this is rebound side. has to be in oil of course to test. that side you want thin fork oil, like 10 or less. I like 7, Then there is a certain amount you put back into each fork for that model forks. the other will be compression, put like 15 wt fork oil. My 140 lb buddy uses 10 in there. this will help when you come off say bigger obstacles, or even bigger wheelies, from compressing all that fork too fast and bottoming out hard. FWIW, at least on gasgas: oil is a big adjustment, then the adjusters on top of forks make "minor" adjustments.

Clean fork oil is also a great thing. for seals still available if you need them. Get the assembly grease/lube when you get seals! Best 5 bucks you will ever spend BTW, as I use it in a lot of places, is is SUPER slippery... Main thing is, saves wear and tear on seals, and saves that black coating on the forks!!!!

Now with you being so tall, you can still get spacers that go under the handlbar clamps, my friend who is 6'3" likes 3/4 inch block under there. Im barely 5'7" hate any in there.

Oh Im now 220, without gear on, undoing some of this to my bike soon.

Sting32 screwed with this post 03-28-2011 at 01:55 PM
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Old 03-28-2011, 02:04 PM   #6
Sting32
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Post above makes a few assumptions.

that previous owner didnt already do all the tweaks I mentioned. and since it is an older bike, might have softer than normal springs.

One other thing to mention, only tie the bike down with straps with enough pressure to hold the bike, and then I do that: only when actually traveling. What I mean is: if in garage overnight, loosen pressure on forks, until you hit the road.

IMHO: Most damage on springs is not from riding, it is from over zealous sinching down on forks, like on a 3 rail trailer compared to back of pickup, where you are scared they might bounce off. Best remedy is to double up on straps and location, to keep bike from being bounced off if one pops loose on a big bump. Plus, some people use a sinch board, which goes from bottom of bottom tripple clamp to axel (not to fender , LOL) so you can have banjo tight straps, on a hardly compressed forksprings ...



Welcome to the DARK SIDE of motorcycling...
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Old 03-28-2011, 07:00 PM   #7
brewtus
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Not a bad starter bike. I liked my '99 TX270. It took me all the way up to Intermediate, and the guy I sold it to rode it 2 classes farther up than that. Good scoot.


+1 on Welcome to the Dark Side.


I gotta find a Darth Brewtus smilie.....
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Old 03-28-2011, 07:10 PM   #8
agspecialties OP
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Thanks for all of the info guys. I have been looking for a trials bike for a while now.
This isn't my first trials bike in the stable. My wife has a 1974 ty250. She loves that bike.
Can't wait to get this bike this weekend
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Old 03-28-2011, 07:35 PM   #9
Sting32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agspecialties View Post
Thanks for all of the info guys. I have been looking for a trials bike for a while now.
This isn't my first trials bike in the stable. My wife has a 1974 ty250. She loves that bike.
Can't wait to get this bike this weekend
Cant wait for you to update your profile, so we have an idea where you are from.

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Old 03-28-2011, 08:29 PM   #10
agspecialties OP
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shit sorry about that. I am from Nebraska. Norfolk. Northeast part of the state.
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Old 03-28-2011, 09:09 PM   #11
Sting32
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Originally Posted by agspecialties View Post
shit sorry about that. I am from Nebraska. Norfolk. Northeast part of the state.
Ok kewl, you have a pretty good clup up there, MWTA.
http://mwta-trials.com/
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Old 04-01-2011, 08:57 PM   #12
agspecialties OP
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Well guys ...picked up the bike today. Looks good rides good starts good. A few issues.
Leaky fork seal and the fan don't want to run. I read that it could be a thermocoupler Have to look into it when we get back.
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Old 04-03-2011, 06:11 PM   #13
Sting32
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Originally Posted by agspecialties View Post
Well guys ...picked up the bike today. Looks good rides good starts good. A few issues.
Leaky fork seal and the fan don't want to run. I read that it could be a thermocoupler Have to look into it when we get back.
Make sure the fan runs, when you ride it, that older bike you can just hook the 2 wires together (do it temporary type of job on this) while you wait for parts. if this doesnt make fan work, it is a bigger issue. lack of coolant will also make fan not work, so check that as well.
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Old 04-03-2011, 06:56 PM   #14
agspecialties OP
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Where is the best place on the net to buy gasgas parts? Hopefully gasgas parts are easier to get then Husky parts.
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Old 04-04-2011, 07:26 AM   #15
Sting32
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Originally Posted by agspecialties View Post
Where is the best place on the net to buy gasgas parts? Hopefully gasgas parts are easier to get then Husky parts.
Ag,

you can try a few places I know of, main one is Adrian & Mandy at http://lewisportusa.com/ based in southern California.

From parts importer http://www.trialspartsusa.com
Trials Parts:they state they want you to go through dealers, but I have gotten parts in the past.

or
Tryals Shop http://www.tryalsshop.com/

Links here an ADV/Trials here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=486887 there are others I am sure... I still say, support your local dealer! (if he's decent and all that of course). BTW, you have a dealer I think, that rides with MWTA as well, I just dont know for sure, maybe it is Jesse Wessels? MWTA website has a message board in the pits area. But, ya never know, he might have that part left over in his spares, this wasnt too uncommon to have to replace that sensor, ya know.



If not, PM me, I know someone else to try.

Sting32 screwed with this post 04-04-2011 at 07:32 AM
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