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Old 02-11-2012, 11:45 PM   #61
gunnerbuck
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Here are some links that should help: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=464845


Post # 105 and #115 in this thread: http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...=632893&page=7

gunnerbuck screwed with this post 02-11-2012 at 11:53 PM
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Old 02-12-2012, 12:54 PM   #62
MNCherryinCA OP
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Awesome. Thanks. My parts won't be here until Friday, so I will play the waiting game for now.

With 6000 miles on my SXC, do you think I'll need to replace the gasket on the slave cylinder/cover? I noticed you did on your engine rebuild.
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Old 02-12-2012, 01:41 PM   #63
gunnerbuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MNCherryinCA View Post
Awesome. Thanks. My parts won't be here until Friday, so I will play the waiting game for now.

With 6000 miles on my SXC, do you think I'll need to replace the gasket on the slave cylinder/cover? I noticed you did on your engine rebuild.

No, if your carefull it should be reusable.. I replaced my gasket because it had been in there for a long time, but it had no sealing issues
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Old 02-12-2012, 05:43 PM   #64
wrk2surf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrk2surf View Post
either you are going to need a O ring on the bottom slave or a piston at the top master.. do both and yourself a favor.. also get a new bushing and screw for the handle as it will wear allowing the lever axial movement making the master piston wear out faster.. partnumber for the bottom O ring 0770020210 KTM O-RING 23,52X1,78... on the top piston if your bike has the stock sxc clutch the size it 10.5 and a parts unlimited or WPS dealer can get the piston cheaper but here is the OEM pn 58402032000 .. the nut bolt and bushing for the handle is..50302038000
Quote:
Originally Posted by MNCherryinCA View Post
So I used the kit to pump air from the bottom bleed area out the top with the cover off. Not much air came out, but I was able to fill it up and get it put back together with a pretty solid feeling when I pulled the clutch in. When I went to go for a short ride, I noticed the clutch was still having to be pulled ALL the way in to disengage the gears. After about 3 miles, I lost all pressure and basically had no clutch. Had to limp home by forcing it into gear without the clutch. Now back to square one.

I guess I should have waited to hear what you had to say wrk2...This bike is like golf! i just can't seem to get everything running right all at the same time! At least I'm learning a lot though! I just wanted to be riding the last 2 weekends and not fixing stuff! Hopefully Munn can ship all of these parts out quick!

When you talk about the bushing and screw for the handle...is that what allows the handle to kind of wiggle around?

Thanks for the pointers...
The bushing and nut and bolt will stop the wiggle!

Quote:
Originally Posted by MNCherryinCA View Post
Hey wrk2surf...What microfische is the 0770020210 o-ring on? I'm trying to figure out exactly where that o-ring is supposed to go.
98 125 or 200

I also wanted to get this service tip up for others chasing a bad clutch...

LC4 Inconstant clutch pressure point caused by axial clearance of transmission main shaft
If customers claim inconstant clutch pressure point, please perform corrective measures as described below.
Procedure for repair/replacement:
It’s very important, that operation (1) is made on the engine at working temperature.
Otherwise the bearing seat can be damaged, if you push the bearing in the seat!
1. Replacement of retaining bracket
For exact positioning and fixing of the main shaft bearing and to minimize clearance of the
main shaft, graduated retaining brackets are available at Customer Service.
To mount the graduated raining bracket, please remove the clutch cover, the pressure
cap, the inner and outer clutch hub and the original retaining bracket.
Then push the bearing to block in the seat and mount the graduated retaining bracket.
Pay attention on fixing the screws with screw lock compound.
After that build the engine together again.
2. Mount the slave cylinder with the new clutch release gasket
(KTM part no 586.32.065.000).
3. We recommend to moisten the slave cylinder fixing screws with medium liquid screw lock compound (Loctite 243), during all kinds of service on LC 4 engines.
Important is to tighten the cylinder screws in the order – centre-bottom-top – with 8 Nm
torque. After one minute tighten the screws in this order again.
Finally, please bleed the clutch system very precise !
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Old 02-12-2012, 05:46 PM   #65
MNCherryinCA OP
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Thanks wrk2surf!
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Old 02-15-2012, 09:08 PM   #66
MNCherryinCA OP
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little by little

Got countersprocket off to get it and the chain out of the way. Didn't need to move rear wheel.

Now I have another day to get the area clean before my parts get here and I start opening things up.

Repairs are tough when you have 3 kids under 5 and can only work in 5-minute shifts!
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Old 02-16-2012, 05:40 AM   #67
dirty_sanchez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MNCherryinCA View Post
Got countersprocket off to get it and the chain out of the way. Didn't need to move rear wheel.

Now I have another day to get the area clean before my parts get here and I start opening things up.

Repairs are tough when you have 3 kids under 5 and can only work in 5-minute shifts!
Two suggestions-

Whiskey and Duct Tape. My sister does this with her kids and it puts them right to sleep. And since the intertubes are completely and totally annonymous, the Child Protetive Services office in Baton Rouge Louisiana who covers the house with the lima bean colored shutters on the south east corner of Hundred Oaks and Eugene will never find out about this little trick to make that kid shut his pie hole.

Dirty
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Old 02-18-2012, 11:27 AM   #68
MNCherryinCA OP
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Cracks iin clutch hose plastic

Hey All,
Got everything apart and started cleaning parts today for the clutch repair. I will post up pics later.

However, I noticed the hose from the master cylinder has some cracks on the outer plastic.



Does anyone know if this cracking on the plastic matters? I just had the bars raised up and the hose is pretty taught now. Is this crack allowing air into the system I don't see any leakage out of the hose.

If I had to replace the hose, I'd need a little longer one I think.

Thanks

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Old 02-18-2012, 11:51 AM   #69
nfranco
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MNCherryinCA View Post

Does anyone know if this cracking on the plastic matters? I just had the bars raised up and the hose is pretty taught now. Is this crack allowing air into the system I don't see any leakage out of the hose.

If I had to replace the hose, I'd need a little longer one I think.

Thanks
I think the plastic is to protect the other surfaces the metal braid would otherwise abrade, shouldn't let any air in, the actual hose is underneath the braided stainless.
Somewhere in the index I believe there are part numbers for longer hoses?
06 640 and I'm starting to get the same cracking.
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Old 02-18-2012, 08:19 PM   #70
MNCherryinCA OP
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Replacing the hydraulic clutch slave oring and refill blood

So I got started taking things apart today to fix my clutch on the 625 SXC.

First, I removed the countersprocket cover and chain guide, followed by the countersprocket itself. It just took a little wiggling and I got it off without too much trouble and didn't have to take the back wheel off.

Here's where the pics start. I decided to get the brake out of the way...only took one hex capscrew...


As you can see, I have a shop rag over the countershaft as I was using engine degreaser to do some cleaning in the area.


At the advice of Dirtysanchez, I removed the two oil lines to make the slave cylinder more accessible.


I hooked up my ridiculously-expensive magura syringe to the bleed screw and sucked all the fluid out of the slave cylider. Then, I took the three capscrews out of the slave cylinder cover. I noticed they are all three different lengths, so I took the following pic...



I realized I had not taken the bleed screw/inlet fitting out, so I had to do that with a loose cap and try not to damage the green gasket. I think I was successful...





Then I just removed the gasket carefully and laid the parts out for a sort of exploded view pic.



Then I went up to the handlebar, removed the bark buster and removed the master cylinder reservoir cover. I had loosened the cover earlier to allow me to suck all the old fluid out with my overpriced magura syringe down at the slave cylinder. The following pic shows that it is pretty-much empty now.



Here is a view of the slave cylinder with the piston stuck inside still


I put about 10 psi of air into the slave cylinder cover to pop the piston out into my hand. Here it is...



The oring is really hard and not easy to get off. I used a really small flat tip screwdriver to pry it out of the groove. Looking at the o-ring, it appeared to have taken a set on the inner diameter. Hard to see, but here is an attempt...


Now I just spent some time cleaning parts and getting ready for my replacement o-ring to come in (was supposed to be here yesterday!). I will also have a few parts coming in to replace up on the master as long as I have the fluid out.

More posts on this later when the parts come in! Sorry for the scattered nature of the pics. I'm definitely not a pro mechanic. just an engineer trying to understand my bike, keep my bike running, and save money on maintenance. I don't know if this will help anyone as most of this is probably covered by other posts by Wrk2surf, Gunnerbuck, and others.
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Old 02-18-2012, 10:53 PM   #71
gunnerbuck
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You have a great step by step process in your posts... I don't think anyone really covered the job of servicing the slave as a specific task... Half the job is the removal of items just to get at the slave...

Good Stuff...
David.
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Old 02-20-2012, 08:51 PM   #72
MNCherryinCA OP
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Bluhduh 0770020210 O-ring looks too small for slave piston

As I posted in the LC4 thread, the slave piston o-ring I ordered appears to be too small.



I decided to order a couple of countershaft o-rings, which are 2.0 x 25 mm. The o-ring I ordered was 1.78 x 23.52 (supposedly). For the hell of it, I ordered a few buna o-rings from the "O-Ring store" in a 2.00 x 24mm size. I had heard the countershaft o-ring might not work for long because it is silicone. The buna o-rings were only $0.18 EA plus shipping, so worth it.

Now the waiting game again.

In the mean time, I realized I need a snap ring tool to get the master cylinder parts out and get the replacement parts back in. Off to the auto parts store I go!!!
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:26 PM   #73
MNCherryinCA OP
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Starting to work master cylinder

OK...since my o-ring dilema on the slave persists, let's see what I can accomplish with the master...

First I removed the clutch lever...very easy...one allen head bolt and a 11 mm nut. Loosen it up and out comes the nut and then the bushing.



I then had to move the rubber sleeve down the hose to see what was under there...just took a little wiggle and twist..


Unscrewing the fitting was very easy.

Now how to get the master cylinder guts out. How do you do this? well..looking closely where I removed the handle/lever, there is still a rubber boot there. Not sure how that comes out, so I just squeezed and yanked it out (knowing I had a replacement part in my possession).


Well, the parts didn't just fall out and my fat fingers can't get in there, so there must be something holding the guts in. Oh yeah! That snap ring that I also ordered! Shit! I don't have a snap ring pliers!



Stuck again until I can get to the auto parts store...more later.
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:38 PM   #74
gunnerbuck
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When I was young and broke, I just ground the tips on a set of needle nose pliars to perform snap ring removal duties...Being older, I'm still not much better off, but I do now own a set of the correct snap ring removal tools...

Silicone works just fine for the slave O-rings, If I remember right the silicone counter O-ring gave me a longer service life in the slave than the original...
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Old 02-21-2012, 05:21 PM   #75
tallbob
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Great pics and explanation for this job it really makes me feel good about my old fashion clutch cable.

Hope you get it working right soon!
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