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Old 07-30-2013, 10:57 AM   #1
DirtyTieDye OP
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2013 KLX250s parts question.

New to the thumper world. Loving it so far.
Picked up my KLX250s a few weeks ago, and find myself in need of a shift lever. It's still usable, but Ive already bent it back into shape twice. I'm not sure how much more it can handle.
So, needless to say, Im looking for a back up.
My problem is that I cannot find any other than the OEM part. As you can imagine, I'd like to get something other than OEM. During my research, I did find that at least the 2009 KLX250s gear change lever OEM part number is the same as the 2013 part number.
Is it safe to assume parts from 2009 are the same for 2013... As a second part to this question, how about the years in between 09-13?
I would like to be able to slowly start piling up some replacement and upgrade parts, but there doesnt seem to be any available for 2013 yet.

Suggestions? Thoughts?
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Old 07-30-2013, 11:57 AM   #2
ITHAPPENS
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Welcome to a sweet little ride. Can't say 100% but I believe 2009 to 2013 are virtually identical, at least in North America, fuelly almost anywhere else. Keep in mind the stock shifter is probably easy to bend by design. Better bend the shifter than damage the tranny. Check out the Kawasaki Forum under KLX http://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum/klx-250s-71/ for lots of great info and terrific people always willing to help, kinda like it is here. I know I have seen aftermarket folding shifters there but like I say, easy to bend for a reason. Skid plate & Hand Guards are a must and if Carbed, jetting ect... sure make a big difference. Good luck!
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Old 07-31-2013, 04:21 AM   #3
DirtyTieDye OP
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I guess I never really thought about it that way. That does make sense.
Thanks!
Now, thanks to the learning curve of going from cruisers to dirt, Im off to order new hand grips! (If only I already added bark busters, I wouldnt need a new pair of grips today.)
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Old 07-31-2013, 05:25 AM   #4
DirtyTieDye OP
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Alright, I know they say "No question is a stupid question." But Im ready for the backlash...
I cracked the throttle tube and have a small tear in the end of my stock grip. Do I have to order a new throttle tube, or will a new pair of grips already come with them?
Again, this is probably something I should post on the kawa message boards, but the parts diagram on kawasaki webpage show the tube and grip as one piece. When I search a parts supplier for grips that fit my ride, should I expect those grips have the tube already as part of them? (The product descriptions don't really have much information to them.)

Ive never had to worry about changing grips on my cruisers, so Ive never come across this problem.
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Old 07-31-2013, 06:49 AM   #5
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Looks like it comes complete factory. Does not come on aftermarket grips. You can always buy OE and remove grip with compressed air. See here for more info...http://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum/...klx250s-39907/ While your changing them, could be time for heated grips depending on your climate. Love the heated grips in the spring/fall or chilly mornings. Get those barkbusters now! Broke my front brake lever in a small off road tip-over, can't imagine how much you need it until you don't have it, just glad it wasn't the clutch. Good luck.
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Old 08-12-2013, 06:25 PM   #6
DirtyTieDye OP
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Question Bars and Guards

So. On to my next parts issue.

I ordered a ProTaper KX High handlebar. I did this based on what I saw others post here on ADVRider and on the Kawasaki pages. I disagree with them.
The top curve, (at least thats what I am going to call it,) the one closest to the hand grips, are farther from triple tree than the stock ones. The stock ones are closer together than these are. Clutch cable is pulling when I turn the bar left. I can't push the clutch controls any farther in than they are now. I don't like it and I'm sure the bike won't like it either, eventually. So, it is safe to assume the throttle cables are pulling more than they used to on the stock bars. I don't like that either. I certain it's just a little too tight.
Aside from that, I also ordered Acerbis Rally Profile X Hand Guard.
These, without even being able to fully mount them, certainly don't fit. The clutch lever is too long to fit inside the handguard. The clutch doesn't have enough room to be fully released. It also can't get squeezed in farther than 1/2 way. There just isn't enough room because the lever is long.

Here's my thing... I know now to measure the bars and check ProTaper charts for a similar bar with further distance between the bends.
Or cut the plugs out from the stock bars.

If I get a better fitting bar, will the hand guards fit with the stock clutch control?
If I unplug the bars, will the guards fit on the stock bar?

Or should I just return all of them and start over?
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Old 08-12-2013, 09:30 PM   #7
mikezx10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyTieDye View Post
So. On to my next parts issue.

I ordered a ProTaper KX High handlebar. I did this based on what I saw others post here on ADVRider and on the Kawasaki pages. I disagree with them.
The top curve, (at least thats what I am going to call it,) the one closest to the hand grips, are farther from triple tree than the stock ones. The stock ones are closer together than these are. Clutch cable is pulling when I turn the bar left. I can't push the clutch controls any farther in than they are now. I don't like it and I'm sure the bike won't like it either, eventually. So, it is safe to assume the throttle cables are pulling more than they used to on the stock bars. I don't like that either. I certain it's just a little too tight.
Aside from that, I also ordered Acerbis Rally Profile X Hand Guard.
These, without even being able to fully mount them, certainly don't fit. The clutch lever is too long to fit inside the handguard. The clutch doesn't have enough room to be fully released. It also can't get squeezed in farther than 1/2 way. There just isn't enough room because the lever is long.

Here's my thing... I know now to measure the bars and check ProTaper charts for a similar bar with further distance between the bends.
Or cut the plugs out from the stock bars.

If I get a better fitting bar, will the hand guards fit with the stock clutch control?
If I unplug the bars, will the guards fit on the stock bar?

Or should I just return all of them and start over?
I have the 2010 and I changed my bars to the pro taper EVO with the Carmichael bend... I think? I had same problem with the cables.
motion pro sorted me out!
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/

As for the lever problem same thing.... did not fit under hand guards.
bought shorty levers... problem solved

BTW the levers are of the cheap Chinese variety but they're very nice, are adjustable and come in colors... fitment is the same as the 2009 Ninja250...so u could get Pazzo's if u like.

mikezx10 screwed with this post 08-12-2013 at 09:38 PM
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Old 08-14-2013, 07:48 AM   #8
DirtyTieDye OP
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So, instead of going through the work of changing cables, I decided to send the bars back. My stock bar is still in good shape, so I figured I'd give drilling out the weights a shot. Why not? If it works, I should be able to get the handgaurds to fit on there for now, while I decide on another aftermarket bar.
I used a dewalt 5/8 inch drill bit, and an old school craftsman power drill. It took about 45 minutes per side, (roughly) but it worked. I kept watering the bit and the hole to cool things down, and that seemed to help.
I haven't been able to restart the installation process yet. Im going to work on that today. Here's to hoping the handguards fit!
Oh yeah, and on to chopping the end of the levers.
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Old 08-14-2013, 01:10 PM   #9
mikezx10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyTieDye View Post
So, instead of going through the work of changing cables, I decided to send the bars back. My stock bar is still in good shape, so I figured I'd give drilling out the weights a shot. Why not? If it works, I should be able to get the handgaurds to fit on there for now, while I decide on another aftermarket bar.
I used a dewalt 5/8 inch drill bit, and an old school craftsman power drill. It took about 45 minutes per side, (roughly) but it worked. I kept watering the bit and the hole to cool things down, and that seemed to help.
I haven't been able to restart the installation process yet. Im going to work on that today. Here's to hoping the handguards fit!
Oh yeah, and on to chopping the end of the levers.
I cut mine down originally and they were fine but I wanted something with color and adjustability for that personal fit!

As far as the bars go I had the bike for about three weeks before I had my first get off in the woods and bent the stock bars... they are really week in my opinion! That's why I went with the beefier 1 1/8 bars. Now when I have a little get off at least im able to pick it up and ride it still as opposed to pushing it out off the woods and needing a tow home.
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Old 08-14-2013, 01:31 PM   #10
Wickedadv
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I just finished a barkbusters install on my 2012 klx250s and drilled the weight to 8mm then tapped to 1.25/9mm. Worked great. Wish i had done that on the throttle side as i cut out the welds and removed the weight. Was not as easy or smooth as tapping. If you tap, remember to use plenty of machine oil and back the material out frequently so that you don't bind and break the tap. New bars would have probable been second easiest after all the setup/extra alignment required.

Bri


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Old 08-14-2013, 07:20 PM   #11
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Laugh

Stock bars back on. Phew. I hate not having my bike in one piece!
So, I probably should have drilled and tapped. By using a 5/8inch bit, it certainly got rid of the whole weight, (just about) but now I have a 5/8 inch hole to fill. The expanding bar end inserts with the Acerbis guards I have don't expand to fill the hole. So, in the meantime I wrapped the plugs with tape and then installed them. It seemed to hold after a test ride. Im going to see if I can order (I believe I can) bigger inserts from Acerbis.
I did NOT have to cut the levers! They fit inside the hand guards. I did slide the controls in just a little bit from where they were originally. This must have given me the room that the pro-tapers couldn't.
I will admit... I did jazz up the right hand guard a bit. I had the outside mounted, and went to attach the inside. Thats when I realized the bolt and fitting on the master cylinder stuck out far enough to prevent me from being able to attach the inside of the guard to the bars. I thought I remembered people posting about using a dremel and in one case a hole saw to modify the guard to fit around cables and, or the brake line. I couldn't find my dremel, and was getting anxious about getting the job done, so I opted for the drill. I figured a 1"hole in the front of the guard would allow enough room for the master cylinder fitting to fit through and leave some wiggle room.
This still seemed like the right idea. If only I had lined up the spot a little better. As it turns out, I drilled a damn hole. In the wrong spot. Off by just a little bit, but enough to make the hole useless. Yep.
Actually, the hole allowed me to bend the guard just a little bit more at the cylinder. This brought the inside of the hand guard in close enough to reach the clamp on the bars. Done.
Now I have to put a nice sticker over the damn hole.

I still have the pro-taper bars, and I dont think Im going to send them back. I think I will put together and order for the cables, and wait for my stocks to bend, or get tired of them. Then I will do this whole process all over again.

Maybe next time I will wait for winter... And measure twice, drill once.
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Old 08-14-2013, 07:22 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikezx10 View Post
I cut mine down originally and they were fine but I wanted something with color and adjustability for that personal fit!

As far as the bars go I had the bike for about three weeks before I had my first get off in the woods and bent the stock bars... they are really week in my opinion! That's why I went with the beefier 1 1/8 bars. Now when I have a little get off at least im able to pick it up and ride it still as opposed to pushing it out off the woods and needing a tow home.
Mike, were you able to get away without having to change cables? How about the controls, do the stock controls still fit?
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Old 08-15-2013, 09:39 AM   #13
mikezx10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyTieDye View Post
Mike, were you able to get away without having to change cables? How about the controls, do the stock controls still fit?
All the controls fit with no issue...you have to drill one small hole on each side of the bars for the little nub on the controls for them to stay put without turning on the bars. I used the bars for over two month with the stock cables but at full lock to left my bike would throttle on its own It wasn't bad but I had to fix it!
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Old 08-21-2013, 09:56 AM   #14
DirtyTieDye OP
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Next Part Question...

Alright kids,
Im becoming comfortable enough with my bike now to begin considering taking my camera. (As this is my part time gig.) But I'd rather not have to deal with a backpack, unless I absolutely have to.
I was thinking about going with a pelican on a luggage rack. This leaving room on the side to maybe add a gas tank or saddle bags in the future.
My question about the Pelican case and luggage rack is two parts really.
1. What rack and Pelican?
2. Can the padding inside a Pelican case absorb enough of the bouncing and vibrations associated with riding offroad and protect my gear?

I know the suspension on these bikes make this smoother for the rider, but how much does the rack and case bounce around?
I'd be looking to haul around a full body DSLR, 1 maybe 2 lenses, and some other small stuff.
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Old 08-26-2013, 09:47 PM   #15
mikezx10
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racks and boxes

Well in my opinion... which rack u get is kinda personal choice. There are a lot of different ones on the market and I really haven't heard of any real bad ones...I have the nomadic rack because it was minimal, strong, looks good (follows lines of bike well),used the original tool pouch holes for mounting and reasonably priced
Since, I have added an adapter plate from twisted throttle for adding a Trax box (it came with Trax hardware). I wanted the plate because it is drilled to accept the rotopax and with different hardware it will quick release the pelican too!! OR I can screw it directly to the plate!!

For the camera gear I would go Pelican with the pick and pluck foam to keep the stuff safe! The military uses them for a reason!
I am going with the B&W top case because Pelican doesn't offer one in the 34L cubed style.
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