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Old 04-12-2011, 09:05 AM   #16
ddorrons OP
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Dusty.. If it is not too much to ask, can you help me with instructions or a step by step guide as to how to calibrate the TPS.
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Old 04-12-2011, 10:24 AM   #17
Dusty
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from the other thread.. how you get to that torx screw is up to you, you can see the readings in the map edit page or the diagnostic page.

as i showed in the pics i posted i drilled a hole in the side of the airbox to get to it...
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Old 04-12-2011, 11:00 AM   #18
ddorrons OP
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Thank You

Dusty. Thank you once again. So basically with the throttle in 0 position i should move the torx screw until I get the desired Voltage? And then take the reading for the throttle at 100%? Should the bike be on or off? According to the image which is the value I have to check, green, black, blue or red?

Thank You
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Old 04-12-2011, 01:03 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by ddorrons View Post
Dusty. Thank you once again. So basically with the throttle in 0 position i should move the torx screw until I get the desired Voltage? And then take the reading for the throttle at 100%? Should the bike be on or off? According to the image which is the value I have to check, green, black, blue or red?

Thank You
throttle at zero... yes

ok the .76 reading is the TPS voltage, if you are going to adjust it cold that value should be .65 or .66 should get you close to the .6 that is recommended when the bike is fully up to temperature.

Loosen the bolt just enough so you can move the TPS, move it only a small amount with the ignition on motor off with TuneECU open and hooked up to the bike.

After you get to the correct voltage, you need to run the 15 idle. Run the bike for 15 on the centerstand do not touch the throttle, when 15 is up shut off the bike.

Then check with TuneECU... You should check the volts and you should see your throttle opening go from 0 to 96 percent..
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Old 04-12-2011, 03:00 PM   #20
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I will try to be a little more clear on my answer for you.

Quote:
So basically with the throttle in 0 position i should move the torx screw until I get the desired Voltage?
The torx screw holds the TPS sensor, loosen screw and the the TPS will swivel up or down to get the correct reading.

Quote:
And then take the reading for the throttle at 100%?
No, take the reading with the throttle closed.

Quote:
Should the bike be on or off?
The bike ignition has to be on and connected to get a voltage reading... as your bike warms up the TPS voltage will come down, that why i gave the the 2 different values for the volts.

Quote:
According to the image which is the value I have to check, green, black, blue or red?
Red is the TPS voltage

The box in yellow should go to 0 and 96% at full throttle after you do the 15 reset.

You really need to spend more time to with the software to understand what your looking at... You can screw things up in a big way if your not sure what your doing...
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Old 04-12-2011, 09:57 PM   #21
jetpoweredmonkey
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Don't forget to check your throttle cable adjustment before you start on all this TPS fun. If the throttle cable is too tight it will be holding the throttles off the closed stop and your TPS adjustment will not be accurate. TuneECU does have a throttle cable adjusting tool, read the instructions.
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Old 04-13-2011, 06:52 AM   #22
ddorrons OP
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Hey guys. Thanks for all your help. I have not yet finished taking the bike apart to get to the TPS, I have to work during my free time which is almost none. Today I reconnected TuneEcu to the bike to check TBs and TPS. Here are the results:

The first image portrays the first connection. As you can see, the TPS Voltage is 0.67V, the engine was turned off and the bike has not been turned on for a couple of days.

I went ahead and disconnected tuneecu and connected again and got the reading of the second image, which is TPS Voltage of 0.72V again with the engine turned off. I moved to full throttle and the TPS Voltage read 3.79V, again with the engine turned off.

I checked the throttle cable at the throttle body entrance, the wire has some play to it meaning that it is not tight.

I went to the test screen to check the values for the TBs. The reading in cyl 1 was 908 while in cyl 2 it was 900.

Remembering what I have done to the bike which might be related to the current symptons, are the following:

1. When the bike was bought it had been stored for a long time, it did not turn on, the TB was removed and cleaned. Overall maintenance work was done to it.

2. The throttle cable was "unthreading" so I bought a new one and replaced it.

3. Installed BMC Air Filter and Akra Evo. (The current map reading yielded that the bike had the Akra Map uploaded).
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Old 04-13-2011, 09:38 AM   #23
jetpoweredmonkey
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Couple of things. First, the pressure readings (MAP sensors) are meaningless if the engine is not running. You are just reading atmospheric pressure and this has no bearing on the synchronization of the throttle bodies unless the engine is actually running.

Second, it sounds like your TPS is adjusted fine. I checked my bike today and it reads .77V cold. If you go to the Tests page and run the "adjust throttle cables" test, it will fully retract the idle stepper motors. Then go back to the Diagnostics page without switching off the bike and read your TPS voltage. It will now be the same as when the engine is fully warm, i.e., idle steppers retracted. Mine read .65V.

Hope that helps.
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Old 04-13-2011, 10:41 AM   #24
ddorrons OP
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Ok I think I have forgotten to give out a critical piece of information, and it is the reason as to why I am doing all of this. The bike, the last two times I rode it did the following:

1. Everytime I pressed the clutch, without mattering in which gear I was in, it stalled. It always stalled when the throttle position was at 0% and I pressed the clutch.

2. After fighting with this condition for a while, and after several (by several I mean a lot), the rpm of the bike went up in between 3000 to 4000 rpm. At this point, with the bike accelerated by it self (0% Throttle), when I pressed the clutch it did not stall, but the rpm would not go down. When I shut the bike down and turned it on again, the RPM went down but the stalling issue relived.

3. I changed the battery, since it coincidentally died went bad during the process, with a Yuasa YTZ-14S.

4. Bought the Air Temp Sensor, to replace it.

and that is it.....
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Old 04-13-2011, 10:45 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddorrons View Post
Ok I think I have forgotten to give out a critical piece of information, and it is the reason as to why I am doing all of this. The bike, the last two times I rode it did the following:

1. Everytime I pressed the clutch, without mattering in which gear I was in, it stalled. It always stalled when the throttle position was at 0% and I pressed the clutch.

2. After fighting with this condition for a while, and after several (by several I mean a lot), the rpm of the bike went up in between 3000 to 4000 rpm. At this point, with the bike accelerated by it self (0% Throttle), when I pressed the clutch it did not stall, but the rpm would not go down. When I shut the bike down and turned it on again, the RPM went down but the stalling issue relived.

3. I changed the battery, since it coincidentally died went bad during the process, with a Yuasa YTZ-14S.

4. Bought the Air Temp Sensor, to replace it.

and that is it.....

You don't need a mechanic, you need a priest...


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Old 04-13-2011, 10:52 AM   #26
cpmodem
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After you adjust the throttle cables and TPS, check the clutch switch. It is used by the ECU to adjust idle speed when the bike is in gear and the clutch is pulled in.
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DISCLAIMER: All observations made in this post are mine and based solely on my own anecdotal experiences, and may contain large doses of facetiousness. YMMV, of course. You are "on your own", and I take no responsibility if someone tries anything in this post and gets into trouble with the law, damages their person or property, or goes blind. Take everything you read or hear "anywhere" butt especially on the Web with a large dose of salt.

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Old 04-13-2011, 04:46 PM   #27
ddorrons OP
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CP, thanks. So here is what I did today. Checked TBs and they are in sync, very close readings with the engine on. Check the TPS with the ignition on at it went down to .68V. All the car alarms in the building went on as soon as I twisted the throttle. So I could not get 96% throttle reading. O that sound is just incredible, I just want to enjoy it.

So here is what I will do tomorrow, set the TPS to .6V 0% engine off.
My question is how can I check the clutch part? Any pictures, or step by step guide?
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Old 04-13-2011, 05:03 PM   #28
cpmodem
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Originally Posted by ddorrons View Post
My question is how can I check the clutch part? Any pictures, or step by step guide?
Measure continuity with your multimeter between the brown and yellow wires at the connector (6) below, with the engine off and the clutch lever pulled all of the way to the bars. S/B < 1.0 ohms when pulled and open when released. As you pull the lever, you will get an idea where the switch activates. This is how far the lever must be pulled in for the ECU to adjust idle speed in gear.
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DISCLAIMER: All observations made in this post are mine and based solely on my own anecdotal experiences, and may contain large doses of facetiousness. YMMV, of course. You are "on your own", and I take no responsibility if someone tries anything in this post and gets into trouble with the law, damages their person or property, or goes blind. Take everything you read or hear "anywhere" butt especially on the Web with a large dose of salt.

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Old 04-13-2011, 06:14 PM   #29
twodollardoug
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddorrons View Post
Ok I think I have forgotten to give out a critical piece of information, and it is the reason as to why I am doing all of this. The bike, the last two times I rode it did the following:

1. Everytime I pressed the clutch, without mattering in which gear I was in, it stalled. It always stalled when the throttle position was at 0% and I pressed the clutch.

2. After fighting with this condition for a while, and after several (by several I mean a lot), the rpm of the bike went up in between 3000 to 4000 rpm. At this point, with the bike accelerated by it self (0% Throttle), when I pressed the clutch it did not stall, but the rpm would not go down. When I shut the bike down and turned it on again, the RPM went down but the stalling issue relived.

3. I changed the battery, since it coincidentally died went bad during the process, with a Yuasa YTZ-14S.

4. Bought the Air Temp Sensor, to replace it.

and that is it.....
i bypassed my clutch switch and raised my idle to 1600 rpm. no more stalling for me....
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Old 04-13-2011, 08:52 PM   #30
jetpoweredmonkey
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Originally Posted by ddorrons View Post
So here is what I will do tomorrow, set the TPS to .6V 0% engine off.
My question is how can I check the clutch part? Any pictures, or step by step guide?
To reiterate - the TPS is affected by the idle stepper motors. Yours sounds like it is set close enough not to bother with it. If the bike isn't up to 100% operating temp, you are not seeing the true adjustment voltage of the TPS. That's why I recommended using the throttle cable adjustment feature of the Testing page.

The TPS pretty clearly isn't your problem, and if you mess with it at this point you're liable to cause yourself some more grief. Pull those tanks off and start looking for disconnected vacuum hoses...
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