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Old 04-12-2011, 11:09 PM   #31
bgoodsoil
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Quote:
R100GS front end:

Forks with triple 26.3 lbs
Front wheel 13.4 lbs
Axle .9
caliper 2.75 lbs ($822.25 on maxbmw!?!?!)
rotor 3.83 lbs
rotor bolts (4) .6 lbs

total excluding small fasteners: 47.24 lbs (yikes)

pretty much everything
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Old 04-13-2011, 10:25 AM   #32
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PARTS!!!

Here's my new Braking USA 300mm rotor... tasty, no?

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 04-13-2011, 11:07 AM   #33
datchew
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nice work making a thread like this with the big picture "how to" and the history and all.

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Old 04-13-2011, 04:27 PM   #34
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Just updated the post with more "Inspiration" pictures.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 04-13-2011, 04:50 PM   #35
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Dont think I'm not watching
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Old 04-13-2011, 05:09 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand View Post
Dont think I'm not watching
OK, but remember where my "good" advice has gotten you in the past...

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 04-13-2011, 05:23 PM   #37
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My god, you found that pic, buried in my smugmug? :lol

Well, I kinda like my forks, heavy as they are, and they kind of match the rear end, and I kinda sunk a few bucks into it, so I'm not really in the mood to change them out, BUT those fifties are like this to me:



So naturally I'm interested in stem sizes... bearings... and... triples......... BRB.
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Old 04-13-2011, 05:34 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand View Post
My god, you found that pic, buried in my smugmug? :lol
I actually I just searched for "Overhaul day fast..." for some reason that title is burned into my mind.

On the triples, you can machine the KTM stem very slightly to work with the stock BMW steering head bearings... and cut it slightly shorter, re-threading the top for the stock KTM upper triple bolt.... this is qualified by a big ***I think*** as the stem in mine is custom. I am going to measure both and report on this later.

That said I heard today that using the stock KTM triples, with a modified/custom stem you may need to knock the stock BMW steering stop off of your frame. I need to verify this, as I don't want to go and know anything off of my frame. If this is the case I need to think about the next logical step.

The other bit is the top triple clamp on the 640 Adventures has rubber bushed handle bar mounting points, where the others are cast in... also the 640 triple has this weird front protuberance that is there to hold the ignition key (I think) that the others lower cc triples lack. This protuberance is going to cause an issue with the stock BMW headlight/instrument mount.

I am working to determine if any other lower cc versions have the same off-set as the 640's and if I can just find, acquire and bolt on that other style of triple clamp... Anyone know?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.

SOLO LOBO screwed with this post 04-14-2011 at 10:36 AM
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Old 04-13-2011, 06:49 PM   #39
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Hey Solo, I've been following along here, but kept quiet, as I don't have a lot to add. It looks like you have this pretty well under control, however, On the subject of steering stops... I'm a huge fan of the steering stops companies like Champion, Knight, ETC. use on their dirt track frames, and thought they might me worth a look, if you do have to change the stops.
The mounts are attached to the frame, by either bolting, or welding a dowel, or tube onto the frame down tubes. Right above the lower triple clamp., and a rubber, or plastic stopper is placed over the tube. The stopper simply hit the fork tube. This is a super strong design, as it has much more leverage against the fork turning (being wider) and it gets you away from welding near the steering bearings, and the triple clamp.

Sorry I could not find a photo with a quick search, but if you have any interest, I'll mock one up on my bike, and post a photo. BTW, this is the system I will be using on my Airhead, as I don't want to modify my triple clamp when I do the fork conversion on mine (GSXR fork)
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Old 04-13-2011, 07:10 PM   #40
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Thanks for the lead Houseo'

I think that is a great idea, and will check into it. My hope is that this thread becomes a resource, so others ideas, comments and suggestions are highly encouraged... as well as calling BS on anything I f***-up


Quote:
Originally Posted by Houseoffubar View Post
Hey Solo, I've been following along here, but kept quiet, as I don't have a lot to add. It looks like you have this pretty well under control, however, On the subject of steering stops... I'm a huge fan of the steering stops companies like Champion, Knight, ETC. use on their dirt track frames, and thought they might me worth a look, if you do have to change the stops.
The mounts are attached to the frame, by either bolting, or welding a dowel, or tube onto the frame down tubes. Right above the lower triple clamp., and a rubber, or plastic stopper is placed over the tube. The stopper simply hit the fork tube. This is a super strong design, as it has much more leverage against the fork turning (being wider) and it gets you away from welding near the steering bearings, and the triple clamp.

Sorry I could not find a photo with a quick search, but if you have any interest, I'll mock one up on my bike, and post a photo. BTW, this is the system I will be using on my Airhead, as I don't want to modify my triple clamp when I do the fork conversion on mine (GSXR fork)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 04-15-2011, 08:50 PM   #41
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Stole a few minutes in the garage just now.... the 1999 KTM 640 caliper arrived (eBay purchase) and had some mungged up threads and more crap in there then I have ever seen... tap and die kit to the rescue!


So, in the picture are 2000 640 legs, triples and axle, a 1999 640 caliper, a 1998 125 SX front wheel, and a new 300mm 640 rotor...

Although you can't tell in this picture, the wheel is spinning for dramatic effect


Anyone catch the bent spoke ?... I need to go and buy a replacement for that.... In a related note, the upper ear of the caliper mount bracket is making slight contact with the rotor. I think the Braking USA rotors are thicker than stock, but don't know for sure. I either need to shim the caliper mount bracket or grind a bit of it off. Don't know which I am going to pick yet.

Next up, stripping the fork legs and shortening the travel... with no permanent negative effects!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 04-24-2011, 11:07 AM   #42
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Update coming shortly.... have one fork partially stripped and am trying to overcome not having a adjustable pin spanner right now. Once I tackle this bit the next challenge will be finding the correct ID/OD material to use on the rebound side as a travel limiter... need to finish the strip to determine what dim's are needed.

Also have a line on a local KTM front wheel that looks much nicer than mine.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 04-24-2011, 01:49 PM   #43
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Shortening the travel of WP Extreme 50mm's

OK, Let's get busy with the fork strip... this is all done following the instructions from the Husaberg WP Extreme manual linked on the first page.

Remove the top:


Here are the innards, the black plastic tube is a 3.5" spacer that I will be removing from the comp side, and replacing with a different spacer on the rebound side to limit the fully extended length. This will be a temporary measure to make the forks similar in length to the stop forks until I extend the swing arm and go back to full length. I haven't made any calculation and haven't planned on changing the springs and valving... I will only be shortening the length to do some testing.


And the correct order and orientation of those bits:


610 mL's drained from the tube:


Oops, the lower washer that is below the spring fell out while draining the forks the manual is very specific that the orientation of this washer should be carefully noted!


So here are all the bits:


Next, remove the lower bolt to release the damper. I used the axle to hold the leg while removing the bolt.


Extract the damper mechanism


See that aluminum wheel at the top? It has to be unthreaded to allow access to the return spring where the new extension limiting spacer is going to go... the manual shows this fancy tool that I don't have and am not going to buy.

The first attempt to make a adjustable pin spanner involved an old crescent wrench and two drill bits, stolen from last month's Classic Bike magazine:




After dulling and sharpening a number of bits, a number of times and not making any headway (use, I used copious oil to cool the bit) I changed it up and used an old rear shock spanner


That quickly bent


I didn't want to clamp the tube in the vice, so here is what I did, I ended up using another c-clamp on the other end of the screwdriver with a small block of wood to hold everything in place


Version three... another shock spanner, but twice as thick as the version 2 version


That with some heat did the trick! The spacer is going to go below that spring and will reduce to total length the forks can extend to.


So, now I need two sections of tube that have an OD less than 21mm (edit - 20.0mm to 20.3mm fits well, closer to 21mm does not) and an ID larger than 12mm. The closest thing I could find at the local hardware store is 1/2" schedule 40 pipe. It is a starting ID of ~15.3mm and an OD of ~21.4mm


Now, I am trying to figure out the easiest way to turn down the OD of the schd 40 to 21mm without a lathe.... more later need to eat some lunch.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.

SOLO LOBO screwed with this post 04-24-2011 at 03:35 PM
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Old 04-24-2011, 02:37 PM   #44
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Problem solved... a nut, a few washers, a long bolt, an allen key, a socket, socket wrench, open-end wrench, drill, strap wrench and a few c-clamps later.....

the rig:




In action:


Results:


It was a bit wobbly, but it worked. The OD isn't consistent over the length but it doesn't need to do anything other than fit inside the outer damper tube and move easily within (no binding).

Off to make another for the other fork leg now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 04-24-2011, 02:59 PM   #45
bgoodsoil
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I love it! That's some New Yankee Workshop stuff right there.
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