ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Old's Cool > Airheads
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 05-28-2013, 02:02 PM   #871
Stagehand
+/- V TDSPP
 
Stagehand's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Shawangunks
Oddometer: 24,890
no pics, but mine run obviously down the right hand frame tube. It dives in the right hand side of hte steering neck, yeah ?hell, I've got two clutch cables in there, now, I should know.
__________________
Unintentional psychokinesis.
Stagehand is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2013, 02:15 PM   #872
hardwaregrrl
You talkin' to me?
 
hardwaregrrl's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Atlanta
Oddometer: 6,670
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand View Post
no pics, but mine run obviously down the right hand frame tube. It dives in the right hand side of hte steering neck, yeah ?hell, I've got two clutch cables in there, now, I should know.
thx, in front of the steering head, or behind? Talk me from the clutch lever down.
hardwaregrrl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2013, 02:43 PM   #873
Stagehand
+/- V TDSPP
 
Stagehand's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Shawangunks
Oddometer: 24,890
Quote:
Originally Posted by hardwaregrrl View Post
thx, in front of the steering head, or behind? Talk me from the clutch lever down.
mine goes down in front, in between triple, right hand side of steering neck... ... lets see...








best pics I can find. Pretty sure it finds its way inbetween the neck and the gusset.
__________________
Unintentional psychokinesis.
Stagehand is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2013, 03:18 PM   #874
hardwaregrrl
You talkin' to me?
 
hardwaregrrl's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Atlanta
Oddometer: 6,670
THanks....big help!
hardwaregrrl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2013, 02:55 PM   #875
SOLO LOBO OP
airhead or nothing
 
SOLO LOBO's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Location: Shoreline, WA
Oddometer: 8,501
Rode in to work again today, hitting every hole I could find.... each time I ride the front end does feel better.

Added one more click of comp. to the rear Ohlins... looking forward to the ride home.
__________________
"punkrocks what it's all about" - J. Strummer



Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
SOLO LOBO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2013, 01:51 PM   #876
SOLO LOBO OP
airhead or nothing
 
SOLO LOBO's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Location: Shoreline, WA
Oddometer: 8,501
Quote:
Originally Posted by SOLO LOBO View Post
OK, to clarify, with the forks all the way down in the triples I felt like I was "steering around" the front end and the balance was weird as well as the drop into corners.

On the freeway, when accelerating hard at higher speeds road bumps would unsettle the bike and give a slight headshake.

I added a bit of comp and rebound to the rear shock, as well as sliding the forks up in the triples.

The weird steering feeling is gone, and so far no issues on the freeway...

LOL, just checked my tires and the front was at 20 (now 35) and the rear at 25 (not 37). Also added on click of damping and one of rebound.
__________________
"punkrocks what it's all about" - J. Strummer



Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
SOLO LOBO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2013, 07:55 AM   #877
Sauerkrautman
Adventurer
 
Sauerkrautman's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Sauerkrautland
Oddometer: 64
Cry

Hi,

it's been some days since my last posting.

I tried to find the reason for the stiction of my forks. Since I thought the problem could be the fork legs, I got a second set from ebay:



So, guess it. That didn't work. Although it got much better when I used the followed procedure:
1. Tightening the screws at the upper clamp.
2. Putting the bike from the main stand and compress the forks without the brake (using a piece of wood at the floor and pushing the bike against it).
3. Tightening the screws at the lower clamp.
4. Tightening the axle and the screws at the axle.

Then the forks got much better, but it wasn't still possible to compress the forks while jumping up & down at the footpegs.

After that I used the same procedure with the first set of forks. But they got stuck after tightening the screws at the upper clamp. The next steps didn't change that.

To test the clamps I dismounted the upper one and pushed the forks all the way up. Then I screwed the forks at this place and pushed the upper clamp the whole way from top down. That worked without any resistance, lso turning them up-side-down didn't change it.
Then I put the upper clamps under the lower clamp and pushed the forks though. Also did work. So I think, the clamps should be ok.

I tried to dismount the second set of forks, but they didn't want. I couldn't open the cap at the top, even with a long lever.

That was the point where I gave up.
I have now 1.5 weeks left to my trip to Iceland, not enough time for games with this stuff.
So I put the original forks back and I hope, they don't get stuck like the WP forks.

After the trip I try to find the mistake, although I still don't have a idea.

This sucks. Half a year working in the garage seems to be still not enough.

Regards,
Richard
__________________
ride reports: Norway with a R80GS, sidecar-trip through south-France
Sauerkrautman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2013, 08:45 AM   #878
ontic
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: LaoPDR/Australia.
Oddometer: 1,037
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sauerkrautman View Post
Hi,

it's been some days since my last posting.
This is starting to sound like one of those horror prison diaries or something
I really feel for you- I hate going around in circles like this.

Quote:
To test the clamps I dismounted the upper one and pushed the forks all the way up. Then I screwed the forks at this place and pushed the upper clamp the whole way from top down. That worked without any resistance, lso turning them up-side-down didn't change it.
Then I put the upper clamps under the lower clamp and pushed the forks though. Also did work. So I think, the clamps should be ok.
I think I imagined what you did here, but I can't be sure. You seem to have proven that the bores in the clamps for the fork tubes are alligned. But if I am imagining you doing what you did correctly, then you probably didn't have the wheel in and the axle done up tight... so you might be back to axle spacing being incorrect?

Quote:
I tried to dismount the second set of forks, but they didn't want. I couldn't open the cap at the top, even with a long lever.
So this means that these new forks have not been cleaned, and by the top being stuck that badly, may not been cleaned in a long time?
Mine stuck terribly before I cleaned them out. Maybe a little heat (being careful not to cook the big Oring up the top... or just take the forks into a mechanics who has a rattle gun and a socket to suit. Maybe after a clean they will be just fine....


Quote:
That was the point where I gave up.
I have now 1.5 weeks left to my trip to Iceland, not enough time for games with this stuff.
So I put the original forks back and I hope, they don't get stuck like the WP forks.

After the trip I try to find the mistake, although I still don't have a idea.

This sucks. Half a year working in the garage seems to be still not enough.

Regards,
Richard
Have a great trip. What a hassle. I hope you figure this out when you get back.
I really don't get what is going on here.
__________________
1974 R90/6
1981 R80G/S
1994 XLR250R
ontic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2013, 01:43 PM   #879
SOLO LOBO OP
airhead or nothing
 
SOLO LOBO's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Location: Shoreline, WA
Oddometer: 8,501
Here's more follow-up on my earlier posts about front brake pad coverage on the rotor... I have a 300mm front rotor (stock to the 1999 640 Adventures), a 640 Adventure caliper and caliper hanger.... I sourced Galfer green pads from cyclebrakes.com. Look's like I am getting coverage of about 2/3rd of the rotor.

I just emailed cyclebrakes to ask if these are the right pads as KTM lists seperate pad part numbers for the smaller cc models running the 240mm rotor and the big bore's running the 300mm one


There's room in there for more pad I think
__________________
"punkrocks what it's all about" - J. Strummer



Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
SOLO LOBO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2013, 08:40 AM   #880
Ras Thurlo
Desert Lion
 
Ras Thurlo's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Hillcountry, Italy
Oddometer: 554
WP50s on a paralever GS

how much should the WP50s be shortened to suit the geometry of a 100GS paralever bike?

it is as simple as replicating the OEM fork length or is there more thought behind this?
Ras Thurlo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2013, 01:08 PM   #881
redboots
Johnny Lung
 
redboots's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Location: Moselle
Oddometer: 141
Quote:
Originally Posted by SOLO LOBO View Post
Here's more follow-up on my earlier posts about front brake pad coverage
There's room in there for more pad I think


I would have said you have the wrong adapter bracket for the size of rotor. Like the caliper is too far out from the leg.
The inboard part is not touched.. do you have a groove in the pad at the rotors outer limit?

J
__________________
Are you a Hollow Chocolate Bunny of the Apocalypse?
redboots is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2013, 02:59 PM   #882
SOLO LOBO OP
airhead or nothing
 
SOLO LOBO's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Location: Shoreline, WA
Oddometer: 8,501
Quote:
Originally Posted by redboots View Post
I would have said you have the wrong adapter bracket for the size of rotor. Like the caliper is too far out from the leg.
The inboard part is not touched.. do you have a groove in the pad at the rotors outer limit?
[/LEFT]

J
The rotor runs right nearly touching the caliper between the pads.. I have a question on the orange forum and another 640 Adventure owner says his looks exavtly like my pix.
__________________
"punkrocks what it's all about" - J. Strummer



Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
SOLO LOBO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2013, 12:31 AM   #883
redboots
Johnny Lung
 
redboots's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Location: Moselle
Oddometer: 141
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ras Thurlo View Post
how much should the WP50s be shortened to suit the geometry of a 100GS paralever bike?
I had mine shortened by 85mm using a spacer. I then push them through the top clamp about 20mm.
I also have a shortened torque arm/paralever strut to hoik the back up a bit.
Just trying to get the "attitude" right

Some get the stanchion shortened, but that's not un-doable if its wrong.
__________________
Are you a Hollow Chocolate Bunny of the Apocalypse?
redboots is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2013, 12:41 AM   #884
Ras Thurlo
Desert Lion
 
Ras Thurlo's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Hillcountry, Italy
Oddometer: 554
what Swing arm are you using for this set-up?

I had thought of shortening the stanchions (see post No.778). Aesthetics aside, is there any practical difference between shortening stanchions or sliding the fork through the top clamp?




Quote:
Originally Posted by redboots View Post
I had mine shortened by 85mm using a spacer. I then push them through the top clamp about 20mm.
I also have a shortened torque arm/paralever strut to hoik the back up a bit.
Just trying to get the "attitude" right

Some get the stanchion shortened, but that's not un-doable if its wrong.

Ras Thurlo screwed with this post 06-13-2013 at 02:10 AM
Ras Thurlo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2013, 01:55 AM   #885
redboots
Johnny Lung
 
redboots's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Location: Moselle
Oddometer: 141
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ras Thurlo View Post
what Swing arm are you using for this set-up?
Standard paralever with a shorter control arm



Quote:
Originally Posted by Ras Thurlo View Post
Aesthetics aside, is there any practical difference between shortening stanchions or sliding the fork through the top clamp?
Probably

Things to be aware of... You don't want the wheel hitting the muguard/fender. If you push them to far through the clamp, that can happen.
They might foul the handlebars. Depends on your mounting. Rox risers might cure that.

They look shite if you have too much poking through
__________________
Are you a Hollow Chocolate Bunny of the Apocalypse?

redboots screwed with this post 06-13-2013 at 04:48 AM
redboots is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 11:33 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014