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Old 09-12-2013, 04:58 PM   #946
SOLO LOBO OP
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Joined: Mar 2004
Location: Shoreline, WA
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Here's a set of WP 50mm's that come with the NLA fork brace...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-99-KTM-...d7c6d6&vxp=mtr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 09-13-2013, 05:45 AM   #947
ontic
 
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Location: Melbourne
Oddometer: 1,048
Nice fork brace. It must come pretty close to the tyre on a 21" wheel? Mine does and it sits a lot higher.

My fork brace is a bit annoying because it sits so high on the sliders and gives me no room to put gators on over the tubes. A friend is trying to machine out a groove that will allow both the brace and the gator (brace will also act as the clamp for the gator)

Hows your forks going Solo?

I just got my cartridges back from the suspension guy I used.
Beefier shims by far all around, with a crossover stack on the base valve. Haven't pulled apart the mid/piston valve yet to measure but it got revalved too. I've got a bunch of the right shims to play with to tweak and tune with if I feel the need.
Not going to be able to test it for a little bit- I've swapped on the mikunis, built the cables for them, sourcing more rubber stuff, trying to find the shop time to turn up a crucial threaded thing to get my clutch set up properly, the forks are in pieces, building a new 19" front wheel for a second set of wheels....
and to complicate matters we just bought our first house Finally got sick of the renting game and we have hunted solid for 3 months and finally bit the bullet.
If all goes to plan we'll have the keys in a few weeks and I'll work heavily on it for a couple of weeks then we'll move in... pretty decent sized garage/shop under the house
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Old 09-13-2013, 08:27 AM   #948
SOLO LOBO OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ontic View Post
Hows your forks going Solo?
I actually just rode for the first time this morning since my last post... I sprained my thumb skimboarding..

Anyway, the front end is better still... need more miles since greatly increasing the rear spring pre-load totally changed the feel of the bike. Overall it is getting close to what I want/expect... just need more testing!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ontic View Post
we just bought our first house
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 09-16-2013, 04:07 AM   #949
ontic
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOLO LOBO View Post
Thanks mate,
we've got our work cut out for us. I'm working long weeks and longer days at the moment trying to stock up a bit of cash and bank up some hours in trade for friends who will help me work on it. Planning a 2-3 week intense reno before we move in... full paint and floors, and doing the groundwork for a new kitchen and bathroom etc... longer term needs new staircase and tonnes more stuff. It is a pretty kooky 70's fixer-upper in a reasonably sought after bushy location.
Still waiting on final bank approval but it is looking like a done deal.

Maybe i felt sorry for your thumb because as I was replacing a floor today (boards over joists) I mashed the tip of my left pointy finger with my hammer.


Back to the WP50's,
I talked to my suspension guy and he re-valved both the base and piston valves. Base valve has a crossover stack (I pulled it apart), much beefier shims than stock, but I haven't pulled apart the piston valve yet. It looks like a similar stack to stock (no crossover, has delta shims).
Going to be a little while before I can test them unfortunately...
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ontic screwed with this post 09-16-2013 at 05:44 AM
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Old 09-16-2013, 04:42 AM   #950
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Pics, or it ain't gonna happen Congrats on the house.......whatcha' doing to the floors???
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Old 09-16-2013, 05:27 AM   #951
ontic
 
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I'll post some pics when I can, but be ready for some worn out 70's style
Floors only really need a re-sand and finish (including de-carpeting and de-tiling sections)- they are nice aussie hardwood floors (but in a board style I have never seen before- a regular 'wide' 135mm board where every individual board has something like a regular 'narrow' 85mm board, with short sections of 50mm board glued in alongside it- end result is like a pattern, wider long board and narrower shorter boards.... etc. ). Never seen them before and patching any repairs is going to be a bit of work, but they are OK.
The boards are good but the old finish has gone way past yellow to dark orange. Just going to sand back and do a decent modern two pack acrylic clear coat (one of the ones that doesn't darken the wood at all).

I was actually planning on sending you a message Jenna to see if you had any tips
We won't have the keys and access to 'our' place for another 2.5 weeks.

Currently I am replacing a hardwood floor in a friends house. Severe termite damage. 135mm tongue and groove boards over bearers and joists. Re-stumping (not me) at the same time. Lots of fun patching sections, redoing other whole sections, and tying in old floor into new dealing with all the complications I am sure you know well. I mashed my finger trying to jam in the final replacement board in a 5m+ hallway.

Tomorrow I am a plumber. Look out.
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Old 10-03-2013, 09:56 AM   #952
SOLO LOBO OP
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Here's some weirdness... check out the KTM procedure to torque the front axle:

http://www.manualslib.com/manual/904...4.html?page=31

Quote:
To install the front wheel, lift it into the fork, position and mount the axle
shaft. Mount the collar nut [1], tighten the clamping screws [2] on the right
fork leg axle passage to prevent the axle shaft from turning and tighten the
collar nut to 40 Nm.

Loosen the clamp screws on the right fork leg. Take the motorcycle down from
its stand. Press the front wheel brakes and push down on the fork a few times
vigorously so that the fork legs come into alignment.
Only after this has been accomplished, tighten the clamp screws on both fork
legs with 15 Nm.
The web says that 40 Nm is ~29.5 ftlbs

The owner's manul for the 2000 model year 640 with the WP front end can be found here:
http://ktm.kicks-ass.org/ktm/KTM_man...20R%202000.pdf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.

SOLO LOBO screwed with this post 10-03-2013 at 10:05 AM
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Old 10-03-2013, 03:45 PM   #953
ontic
 
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So basically, torque up the axle, bounce the forks and use the brake with both side pinch bolts undone to allign forks, and then torque the pinch bolts?
That's pretty much Dmasters description and also the way I have done it since he corrected my similar (though incorrect) version that had a tiny bit more of a torque up after the pinch bolts were tightened.

I have found when torquing the axle there is not really much need to do up a pinch bolt first- with a little care it the axle won't turn and as it torques up a little it grabs and helps you torque up a lot more.

btw. it is settlement date in a couple of hours and time to pick up the keys today
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Old 10-03-2013, 03:54 PM   #954
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOLO LOBO View Post
Here's some weirdness... check out the KTM procedure to torque the front axle:

http://www.manualslib.com/manual/904...4.html?page=31
Same way I was taught umpteen years ago. Same way in the Husky manual, too.
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Old 10-04-2013, 09:12 AM   #955
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After riding into work today I can say that the over-torqueing of my axle nut was certainly a major contributor to my fork issues... the fork is working much, much better now!

I did significantly increase the pre-load on the rear shock spring and that has unbalanced the handling a bit.. The rear is much firmer and higher and isn't as plush as I want it to be.

I'll be removing a bit of the pre-load this weekend to see what that does. I do need to have the shock serviced and the low-speed damping fixed this winter... perhaps the spring is wrong?

The other thing I am going to do is to look into buying new axle spacers for the front... they are aluminum and mine may be worn.. perhaps they come in different sizes?

Ideally I would have some made in steel, but haven't thought that far ahead yet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 10-04-2013, 10:25 AM   #956
SOLO LOBO OP
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Turns out the aftermarket provides replacement steel wheel spacers to reduce the known wear issues with the stock aluminum ones.


Set on order now, measurements of new and old to follow!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 10-06-2013, 04:35 PM   #957
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I have a set of wp50s in the garage and after recent events left my original forks bent I think I'll try to fit them. The bike is an 83 r80rt with konis on the back. I've been riding it quite a bit on gravel and dirt tracks and I can usually keep up with my buddies on drzs and dr350s.

My question is.. in the interest of saving a few bucks and some time is it worthwhile to use the ktm triple clamps? I understand I will lose some steering circle, but is it enough to matter? Has anyone done this? Which stem and bearings would I use?
Otherwise does anyone have a detailed drawing or model to help me get started making some?

I'm sorry if I'm asking questions that have been answered, but I'm having a tough time keeping all of the info in this thread straight and it seems most people used the other triple clamps.



Hit her going about 45, the only damage was to the forks and the bottom of the headlight bezel. I wasn't even late to work :)
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Old 10-06-2013, 04:46 PM   #958
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Oh man.....glad you're whole. That remindes me I need to renew my hunting liscence. The easiest and cheapest way to pop those forks on the airhead is to press the stem out of your stock triples and press it into the KTM triples. Or you could have the KTM stem turned down to fit BMW bearings. Now I can't remember if the stems will mate to the other triple.....SOLO will now as I believe he attempted this. But you will loose the stock steering angle....you'll go from 36mm offset to around 22mm. it's a bummer at the tight dead end of the trail.


Quote:
Originally Posted by e28rusty View Post
I have a set of wp50s in the garage and after recent events left my original forks bent I think I'll try to fit them. The bike is an 83 r80rt with konis on the back. I've been riding it quite a bit on gravel and dirt tracks and I can usually keep up with my buddies on drzs and dr350s.

My question is.. in the interest of saving a few bucks and some time is it worthwhile to use the ktm triple clamps? I understand I will lose some steering circle, but is it enough to matter? Has anyone done this? Which stem and bearings would I use?
Otherwise does anyone have a detailed drawing or model to help me get started making some?

I'm sorry if I'm asking questions that have been answered, but I'm having a tough time keeping all of the info in this thread straight and it seems most people used the other triple clamps.



Hit her going about 45, the only damage was to the forks and the bottom of the headlight bezel. I wasn't even late to work :)
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Old 10-07-2013, 12:21 AM   #959
Ras Thurlo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hardwaregrrl View Post
you will loose the stock steering angle....you'll go from 36mm offset to around 22mm. it's a bummer at the tight dead end of the trail.
+1

I am using the KTM triples on my WP50 set-up and find the steering angle sucks when having to turn back on tight trails
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Old 10-07-2013, 08:28 AM   #960
SOLO LOBO OP
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The KTM triples fit, but you have to have the KTM stem turned down to work with the MBW steering head bearings.... you also need to knotch the lower triple or cut the steering stop off of the frame.... the KTM stem also need to be shortened, or a spacer needs to be made.

As far as riding with the KTM triples, I haven't tried it...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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