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Old 04-20-2011, 08:03 PM   #16
Coyote63 OP
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Day three

After a good night’s rest, we donned our gear and headed out. We were still cracking up over spending the night at such a posh hotel, so we had the bellman take a couple pictures of us outside the lobby.





Then we talked a Japanese tourist into taking a couple with the bellman. The juxtaposition of the bikes with the Beverly Hills attitude was too much to pass up.





The Japanese tourist asked me if these were the bikes that could do 200 km/hr. I said, of course. Seriously, what else was I going to say?! J

Inspired by Drex’s chewed-up arm, I decided I needed new elbow pads, so before heading south again we made our way across Ensenada to a gear shop and picked up a new set. As we were leaving the store, a parade of kids and teachers came marching by. They were having a good time. We waved, they waved, and we took some pictures. We couldn’t tell what they were celebrating.









We pointed the bikes out of town, but since we hadn’t yet had breakfast we began looking for a place to get a bite. On the outskirts of Ensenada we passed a tiny eatery with a sign for birria. It looked like the kind of place that would have good homemade fare. I tried to take a short cut around the block for a u-turn and expertly led us into a dead-end where a pack of pit-bulls (o.k., one) were slumbering and just waiting for gringos on motorcycles. They (he) tried to bite my leg off.

Narrowly escaping mutilation by canine ambush, we found our way back to the birria place and parked the bikes while a few wary locals gave us the eye. Inside, the family serving the birria warmed right up once they heard our passable Spanish. We sat down and had one of the best breakfasts of our lives.





















The family restaurateurs were super friendly people, running the whole operation on one four-burner stove.



The day was bright and shiny, our tummies were full, Drex was nice and stitched up (and we had just changed his maxi-pad), so life was good. We fired up the bikes and made our way just past Santo Tomás, then hung a quick right on the same dirt road as the day before.

(to be continued...)
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Old 04-20-2011, 09:22 PM   #17
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Salibating!!!

Okay, you got my attention. Let's keep it coming. I am all .
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Old 04-21-2011, 02:26 PM   #18
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More coming soon. Maybe tomorrow. Maybe Saturday. I'm not CLOSE to finished telling this story.
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Old 04-21-2011, 04:01 PM   #19
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i'm in...
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Old 04-21-2011, 06:24 PM   #20
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Again we were struck by the beauty of the place.









































A few miles past where Drex had trashed it the day before, we came across a tiny village with this sign proclaiming their key stats.



Don’t ask me why the bottom is in English. Someone must have thought it would be funny. The top part of the sign warns of chupacabras, which translated means goat-suckers. The chupacabra is a half-man/half-reptile vampire, with red eyes and a row of spines reaching from the neck to the base of the tail, that feeds on goats.

If you don’t believe me, click here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ChupacabraWikipedia knows everything.





More spectacular views…









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Old 04-21-2011, 06:45 PM   #21
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We continued south and soon came to the small town of Erendira, where we figured it would be smart to fill up the tanks. We stopped in at a small store, bought a few snacks, and then went to gas up. There’s no gas station in Erendira, or anywhere near Erendira, so you have to go buy gas at someone’s house. It was $4.00/gallon. I thought that was pretty reasonable, under the circumstances. And the service was terrific.















The day was still young and we had quite a ways to go to make San Quintín by nightfall, so we headed back out to the beach and turned south.
We romped on the beach for a while and had a great time.





















As they say, it’s all fun and games until someone gets an eye poked out, or something like that. We couldn’t ride farther south on the beach because a bluff cut off our path, so after messing around for a while it was time to head back inland and find a different route.
Drex and TE crossed an estuary at the shallow point. I, on the other hand, for reasons still unknown to my keen intellect, chose to cross at a point of unknown depth. Drex and TE took these wonderfully flattering shots from atop the bluff.










The BRP had a hard time standing on its own…




After a while, TE and Drex stopping laughing and came down to rescue me.



The 450x was drowned. It took me a good 15 mins to lug it out of the waist-deep (stagnant smelling) sea water. Then TE and I pushed it up to the SHALLOW PLACE and crossed over. This is where the story would get very long and boring, so I’ll keep it brief.
After 3 hours of trying to start the 450, including dragging it with the BRP, removing, drying, and replacing the spark plug ½ dozen times (Being brilliantly prepared, we had no spark plug wrench, so Drex rode over to Erendira and borrowed a llave para bujía.) we gave up and towed it to Erendira, hoping we could find a mechanic to take a better look, dry it out, or whatever.




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Old 04-21-2011, 11:03 PM   #22
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It didn’t take long to find the “best” mechanic in Erendira. We arrived at his house just before dusk. We knocked on the door. He was home and willing to help. I explained the predicament and the mechanic and I started a 2-hour process to get the 450 running again.

Here I am vainly kicking it with a battery charger attached.





We were starving since we hadn’t really had anything to eat since the morning’s birria, plus we’d been lugging, pushing, and dragging the 450 all afternoon. At some point (when I wasn’t looking!), Drex grabbed TE and they disappeared down the street in search of a meal.


They didn’t have to look far. Just a few doors down, they found a little store/café and ordered up some tasty victuals.










Drex noticed this crawfish strung up by a claw near the candy shelf in the store.





When he asked what that was about, the storeowner said her niece would often come and swipe candy while she had her back turned, so she set up the crawfish as her candy “scare-crow.” She said it was pretty effective as the niece was terrified of the crawfish. There was a bucket of them there, waiting to be cooked up for dinner.





Meanwhile, the mechanic and I kept working on the bike. We removed the plug again, dried out everything we could find, replaced it – nothing. At one point, we took this picture of his own bad boy carefully stashed in the garage.





I also went off and filled my tummy at one point. I have to say, it was an incredibly delicious meal – yeah, partly seasoned by my famished appetite, but it was just darn good, home cooked Mexican food. It really doesn’t get too much better than that. I don’t care what fancy place you go to, anywhere in the world.


We tried everything we could think of on the 450, but no luck. Our mechanic was not about to give up, though. After a while, he suggested we check the oil. This is what we found.




That’s what engine oil and seawater look like when mixed. L As bad as this was, it was also the turning point. We drained the engine and the transmission, and replaced the oil. Fortunately, they do sell oil at the local sundries store in Enrendira, Mexico. Then we started kicking the 450 again. After a few short minutes, she roared back to life. Smiles all around.



The 450 blew a lot of steam out the exhaust for quite some time.



With the drowned bike back in action, we were ready to roll again. It was about 9:00pm. I asked our friendly and resourceful mechanic how much we owed him. He said $20.00. I couldn’t believe it and paid him $40.00.

Drex was still determined to get to San Quintín that night, where we had reservations at The Old Mill. I was more of a mind to find a place to crash in Erendira, but he was resolved to make the ride south. There weren’t a lot of lodging choices in Erendira anyway (estimated population: 350), so TE and I acquiesced.

The next three hours were a mixture of awe-inspiring beauty and terror. It was a very clear, cold night with a big bright full moon. We rode out of Erendira, east, toward Mexico Highway One. Even in the moonlight, the sweeping rocky landscapes were something to see. There were no other vehicles on the narrow paved highway leading out to MX-1.

That all changed when we hit the main two-lane highway and turned south. Then we were mixed in with pick-up trucks, cars, and semi-trailers. Everyone was in a hurry. I was very tense. I think TE and Drex were too. We passed through many small towns where we would slow down, stand up on the pegs, and stretch our legs and rear-ends. We stopped once or twice and got some hot chocolate at a Pemex gas station.

It was sometime around midnight when we rolled into The Old Mill. We found this sign waiting for us on the office door.




The room was Spartan, but clean and more than adequate. We were trashed and ready for showers. The tile in the shower was very slippery and Drex hit the deck, banging his wounded arm on his way down. That hurt. I laid out my sea-soaked gear and boots and hoped they’d dry a bit by morning.

Around 2:00am, I got up to see a man about a horse. When I returned to our room and began pulling the bathroom door shut, someone grabbed it from the other side. I pushed the door back open and looked to see who was in the bathroom messing with me. No one there. That was spooky. Still not sure what happened.

Considering the hour, I guess that was really the beginning of DAY FOUR. I’ll try to get that posted soon.

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Old 04-21-2011, 11:12 PM   #23
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Wicked Pumas

Don't forget about the pumas between Erendira and Mex1!!

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Old 04-22-2011, 01:41 AM   #24
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Nice report....!!........!
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Old 04-22-2011, 09:05 AM   #25
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Veeeery entertaining. Loving it!!!!!!!!!
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Old 04-23-2011, 08:09 AM   #26
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It's Saturday. Lots of honey-do's, but I hope to post DAY FOUR later on...
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Old 04-24-2011, 10:39 AM   #27
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Well done

Fun trip report. I look forward to Day 4!
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Old 04-26-2011, 12:56 AM   #28
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Waiting, waiting.
Awesome and enjoyable RR. Bring it!
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Old 04-26-2011, 03:48 AM   #29
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Great report...

I don't know what day it is today, but I would really like to read the rest of this very entertaining and educational ride report...
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Old 04-26-2011, 09:00 PM   #30
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Hmmmm

Unfortunately it seems that my brother values his family and his employment more than the reading appetites of ADVers.

Tragic.

The next day started splendidly. Until I woke up and remembered that I had quite a large hole in my upper forearm near my elbow that had six external stitches and a few more on the inside.

Apparently the Mexican pain pills were quite good as the crazed look in my eyes on these pages will attest. Wait. Okay, more crazed than usual.

More to come from mi hermano, el coyote.
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