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Old 04-10-2011, 10:47 AM   #1
Sniper X OP
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rear brake drum removal on my 1974 chevy pickup

it is a C20, 3/4 ton with floaating axles, I have the axle out whic was easy, I have all three of the keepers off, two spanner nuts, and the tin locker between them. The drum feels loose but won't slide off. Is there something else that needs to come off before this drum will come off or do I just need to keep teetering it till it works off?
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Old 04-10-2011, 10:52 AM   #2
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It feels like it is hanging up on the shoes. Where IS the adjuster and how does it work? I don't see a rubber plug like on a regular 1/2 ton drum system.
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Sniper X screwed with this post 04-10-2011 at 11:01 AM
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Old 04-10-2011, 12:44 PM   #3
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Back then GM sometimes didn't knock out the adjuster plug hole at the factory. Look for a plug-shaped recess in the usual spot and see if it appears to just be tacked in place. You might have to hit it with a hammer and punch to knock it out. Another place to look is on the face of the drum, but you probably would have already found it by now if it had one.
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Old 04-10-2011, 01:11 PM   #4
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it doesn't have either. What is there at the top of the backing plate where the adjuster SHOULD be is a very large stut sticking out with a nut on it. It has the be about a half inch stud with the large but on it.
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Old 04-10-2011, 02:11 PM   #5
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On all the drums I've worked on, the adjuster slot is at the bottom of the backing plate.
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Old 04-10-2011, 03:03 PM   #6
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Adjuster should be at the bottom. The stud at the top is where the pull back springs are hooked, it's big because it has a lot of tension on it.
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Old 04-10-2011, 11:16 PM   #7
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Pictures worth a thousand words.
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Old 04-10-2011, 11:51 PM   #8
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Some of those didn't have holes to get to the adjusters.

The bearing could be hanging up on the spindle. You'll probably need a slide hammer to get it off, and it will probably leave the bearing and seal on the spindle.
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Old 04-10-2011, 11:59 PM   #9
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It's almost always because the shoes are hanging up on the drums because they've worn a channel in the drums, though.
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Old 04-11-2011, 03:40 AM   #10
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It's almost always because the shoes are hanging up on the drums because they've worn a channel in the drums, though.
Actually the ring of rust on the inside lip of the drum is usually the problem. Especially if the drums have not been removed in a long time.
The shoes run about a quarter of an inch inside the drums. The rust builds up pretty thick.
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Old 04-11-2011, 07:37 AM   #11
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Pictures worth a thousand words.
I wish it was there.
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Old 04-11-2011, 07:38 AM   #12
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It's almost always because the shoes are hanging up on the drums because they've worn a channel in the drums, though.
That IS what is happening.
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Old 04-11-2011, 07:42 AM   #13
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I wish it was there.

Round two then,
Slide hammer, or a chain and your ATV and JERK the drum off, you'll end up needing a brake hardware kit typically when your done.

I have used pry bars to pop the head of the brake nail or keeper out so I could get em off.
Sorry about the troubles. Been there and done that. They don't give you a T-Shirt either.
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Old 04-11-2011, 07:52 AM   #14
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Round two then,
Slide hammer, or a chain and your ATV and JERK the drum off, you'll end up needing a brake hardware kit typically when your done.

I have used pry bars to pop the head of the brake nail or keeper out so I could get em off.
Sorry about the troubles. Been there and done that. They don't give you a T-Shirt either.
Yeah bummer, but it'll be bitchin to have good brakes again when I am done since for some odd reason, I love this truck! A guy gave me a real bitchin exhaust set up for it too so I think whilst I am looking for a steering gear I'll pop that bitch on there too. It is Hooker headers and flowmaster mufflers on a full length pipe set up. Right now it is a tiny 1.5in bargan basement dual exhaust system on it with stock manifolds. I can actually feel it holding it back.
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Old 04-11-2011, 07:53 AM   #15
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Plus at I had planned to replace everything under there anyway parts kit drums shoes everything....
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