Extended Carbon Fiber beak.....Help me design it....

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by runnin4melife

I am not the master of plastics but wouldn't that essentially degrade the integrity? Or are you suggesting I make the pattern then use that to fab the carbon fiber ones.... Hmm

Well.... you don't want to set it on fire...., but most plastics are of polypropylene, which you can get to about 200 deg. F., and then slowly "reform" and generally they will stay in their new form, or shape. If you bend a SS thin strip to match up the curvature, and hole pattern of each lower..... Then set the SS template in a vise, and slowly heat up the plastic, and about 180-200 try to form it over the template. It might be worth a try on a cutaway piece before you go at the main piece, but that is what I would do, with the simple mounts of the F8GS. It will not degrade the plastic. Off course I say that, but UFO make good stuff. I have done this on several plastics, although not sliders, but one Clarke fuel tank, with great success.

[ebrabaek]

After two layers of resin with cure in between..... a third layer of resin was laid, and then one layer of fabric. Note how the stress was relieved in areas of high tension, by cutting of the fabric. Only one layer, as it is easier to manage one layer of 6 oz 2x2 twill, than multiple layers. You start from one side, and while massaging it into place, you sort of roll in one direction.

[SDDinNH]

The original has a plastic "hook" underneath it to hold it to the front of the beak. How are you going to add that, or are you just going to add a second set of bolts farther forward?

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by SDDinNH

The original has a plastic "hook" underneath it to hold it to the front of the beak. How are you going to add that, or are you just going to add a second set of bolts farther forward?

I will make a CF cross brace, so that it will install in the exact same way the stock one does. It adds a little complexity to the project, but it is worth it.

[ebrabaek]

As only one layer was put down first, for stress management, the subsequent layers would be laid in hard epoxy. In the past we had been told to sand first, but that is not really important, as the matrix is only a day old. What IS important is to have a smooth surface, and as fibers conform, they stretch and pull, so the real reason for my sanding is to smooth out any stickies.




Then two more layers, and a heap full of CF scrap's were cut, and after one more full sheet, then all the scraps were laid down, followed by the final full sheet. I estimate most of the areas have 6 layers of 6 oz. 2x2 twill. Good enough to still flex a bit when separating the two pieces, and then a good foundation to strengthen the mould, as that will be explained later.

[ebrabaek]

Almost time to break the mould...... Sort of like Christmas......

[SDDinNH]

Originally Posted by ebrabaek

Almost time to break the mould...... Sort of like Christmas......

[ebrabaek]

Sorry fellas...... My youngest just turned 7, and part of the celebration carries through today...... M'fraid nothing until tomorrow.....

[therivermonster]

Originally Posted by ebrabaek

Sorry fellas...... My youngest just turned 7, and part of the celebration carries through today...... M'fraid nothing until tomorrow.....

No worries. Party on my good man!

[zgfiredude]

Hey, the party's over, get to work!!

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by zgfiredude

Hey, the party's over, get to work!!

I know your in the family, with your wife now owning a sixfitty, but until you get one, you have no dispatch authority.......... How are you my friend..... Found what your looking for yet.....????

[ebrabaek]

Ok ok...... Sipping my last cup of coffee....... Will enter the dark realm shortly......

[ebrabaek]

This is truly a crazy shape to mould. So careful to score the edges all along the perimeter will help the release. There are simply so many angles, and edges, and you have to be careful not to find out that this needs a two piece mould.....after you molded it.......



First of.... is the original beak....




Then the epoxy clay part.......careful here, as both the mould, and clay is rigid.....



All parts separated.....




Then sanded with 600 wet to clear any nicks...... buff, and ready for a first cast....



Toppled, ready for first layer of release agent....




After first layer of release agent.....




Second layer of release agent.....



Note the small areas of voids in the case..... Might look detrimental to the untrained eye, but with these crazy angles..... I am quite happy. No reason to fix them if this design looks like crap, so I will take one print.....Install it on the bike, and have a look. If it looks good, then onward to fix the mould. No reason to spend more time that necessary.

[ebrabaek]

Over the years when I make something, the first edition usually are being replaced with the second edition. Historically that has been my score. Usually the second one stick's. I already have a plan for the design, drawing the stock lines all the way forward......In case this ends up looking like a bear claw.... Sort of what I intended. As a symbol of great traction.... Might not come out like that, but I thought a blend of the stock lines....and a bear claw/paw, would be a nice touch. But it is really hard to picture this inverted...... So it might come out more like a nose of a seagull........ We shall see tomorrow. Then construction of the USD fork sliders ( protectors) begin....

[ebrabaek]

What a pain in the a$$ this was.... But it was to be expected. One of the beak's design is the hard angles. It looks good...imho. I am really trying to honor that, but that same style is really pushing this layup style. I have a feeling that when it comes apart tomorrow, or this afternoon...... I will discover that more sculpting is needed, plus all the fixing of these crazy angles.